FATIGUE, FROSTBITE, INEXPERIENCE—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. Robert Larsen (44), Merilyn Swanson (47), and Kevin Duffy (25) were clients of a guided expedition to Mount McKinley. On May 10 the group was at 17,000 on the West Buttress. They got an early ...
FALL ON ROCK, ROPE SEVERED, CARABINER BROKE California, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn April 1, Matt Baxter (26), an experienced big-wall climber, set out alone to fix the first few pitches of Zenyatta Mondatta, a difficult multi-day aid route on E...
Peaks Above Ruth Glacier, Alaska Range. We Swiss, Heinz Aleman and I, were in the Ruth Glacier region from July 21 to August 5. On July 21, shortly after midnight, we reached the summit of P 11,300, which is 2½ miles north of Huntington across the...
FALL ON RAPPEL, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Tunnel MountainOn June 21, a party of two had completed the first two pitches of Gooseberry (II, 5.7) a seven-pitch popular route near the town of Banff. They had only planned to do th...
Trisul I Attempt. An Indian expedition from Bengal led by Samir Sengupta attempted the western approaches of this peak (7120 meters) in July-August, at height of monsoon. They reached the Ronti Saddle on July 22. As rains continued the attempt was...
Main Fisher Tower: The Titan. Layton Kor, George Hurley, and I made the first ascent of the Tower in May. On May 5-6 we climbed halfway to the summit, stringing the tower as we climbed. We returned and completed the climb on May 12-13. The Titan h...
Hermit Spire, South Face. An interesting edifice of nature highlights the rolling subalpine hills west of the Little Kern River, closely north of Lloyd Meadows (several miles north of The Needles). Its base is shaped like a typical Sierra dome, bu...
Huascarán Norte, Northeast and Northwest Ridges. A Yugoslavian expedition from Celje was led by Franc Canžek and composed of Janez Crepinšek, Mišo Culk, Francek Knez, Ivan Lesjak, Aco Pepevnik, Joše Zupan and Dr. Joše Cetina. The original objectiv...
Matterhorn, North Face. Tobin Sorenson soloed the north face of the Matterhorn in early December in nine hours.
Noijin Kangsang lies immediately north of the Gyantse-Lhasa road at 28.9° N, 90.1° E. At least five routes have been climbed: the west ridge (Japanese, 1999); southwest ridge (Tibetan Mountaineering Association, 1986); south-southwest spur and sou...
Pico Bolívar and Other Ascents, Venezuelan Expedition. A group of twelve climbers of the Asociación Distrital de Andinismo, Caracas, ascended Tairona (c. 16,500 feet), Bolívar and Colón (both 18,975 feet), between December 8 and 27, 1978. For the ...
The Alpine Club of Canada will hold its twenty-sixth annual camp July 20 to August 3, 1931, in Prospector’s Valley in Kootenay National Park—a main camp to be established about three miles from the head of the valley beside Tokumm Creek, with auxi...
Disappointment Peak, Gyunt Arête Variation. This variation, the “Open-Book”, was climbed by Philip Jacobus and Steve Larsen on August 21. It was a very difficult rock climb, generally following a prominent open-book formation on Grunt Arête. Eight...
Puscanturpa Group, 1981. (A brief report in A.A.7., 1982 on page 182 was unfortunately not totally correct. The following was received too late for publication last year. See photos of Puscanturpa Norte and Sur in A.A.J., 1975, Plates 59 and 60.) ...
Lobuche Kang II, First Ascent. A Swiss party from Neuchatel established Base Camp at 5300 meters. Camp I was above the difficult 400-meter-high serac barrier at 5750 meters, Camp II was at 6300 meters on the col between Lobuche Kang I (7367 meters...
Field Book—The Wind River Range from Guide to the Wyoming Mountains and Wilderness Areas with Supplement, by Orrin H. Bonney and Lorraine Bonney. Denver, Colorado: Sagebooks, 1960 and 1962. 148 pages, 37 ills., 8 maps, index, 1962 supplement. Pric...
Peak 7,600' and Mt. Kimball. On August 12 I laid eyes on Bethan Gilmartin for the first time. August 13 found us driving to the Richardson Highway Monument and starting to hike east toward Mt. Kimball (10,200'). Due to inclement weather and poor m...
RAPPEL FAILURENew Hampshire, Cannon CliffsIn September, a climber rappelled off the end of his rope and fell 30 feet to the scree below, sustaining only a sprained neck. He was assisted to the road by Fish and Game personnel. (Source: Rick Wilcox,...
INCOMPLETE TIE-IN, FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, The Needles, Sorcerer NeedleOn September 4, two climbers were on Thin Ice (5.10b) at the Needles, an easy route for their abilities, after earlier climbing two short, multi-pitch routes, Igor Unchained (5...
Minar and M6, Kishtwar Region. A British Joint Service team, led by Squadron Leader Emlyn Thomas, was joined by members of the Indian Air Force. Base Camp was in the Chandra valley. They made the first ascent of two peaks between June 24 and July ...