Northeast Face of Disappointment Peak, Tetons. In mid-July, Willi Unsoeld and Richard Pownall made a new route of severe difficulty on this remarkably smooth face. After a few rope-lengths up the east ride of Disappointment Peak from the notch abo...
Utah—Petes Rock, Salt Lake County: In the early part of September, 1953, John R. Bendall (25) was rappelling 90 feet on the Wasatch Mountain Club practice rock. The rope used was a half-inch army nylon (not war surplus) 5 to 6 years old which seem...
Everest Attempt. Climbing the historic route which claimed the lives of Mallory and Irvine in 1924, the Wyoming Centennial Everest Expedition, commonly called “Cowboys on Everest,” led by Courtney Skinner, fought against weather conditions resulti...
NO HARDHAT OR CLIMBING HARNESS—British Columbia, Coast Range, Mt. Waddington. A party of eight persons, most of them members of the British Columbia Mountaineering Club, was packing 50-pound loads up to high camp for Mt. Waddington. Atop the Bravo...
SLIP ON ICE, UNROPEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Scott IcefieldOn August 18, 1993, J.B. and A.G. were out for a day trip on the Scott Glacier. J.B. was walking above A.G. and about 60 meters above the toe of the glacier, when J.B. slipped and fell. T...
New peaks in 2001. A press release from Kathmandu on April 10 declared that His Majesty’s Government would open 15 new peaks within one week and 50 more during the post monsoon season. However, after the spring season was underway the Government a...
Gasherbrum I Ladies’ Expedition and the Tragic Broad Peak Reconnaissance. Poles Wanda Rutkiewicz and Ewa Pankiewicz completed the first “ladies-only” climb of Gasherbrum I, which had been climbed by three different women, in 1982, 1986 and 1989. T...
Unnamed Peak (6,193m). A two-member Polish team comprising Robert Sieklucki and Marcin Wernik attempted this unnamed peak near to Nandanvan. They reached the base of the mountain on April 19 and, not surprisingly considering that they had arrived ...
Traumberge der Welt, by Dölf Reist. Frauenfeld, Switzerland, Verlag Huber, 1973. Size 9¾" x 11½", 90 pages of text with 139 full-page or double-page photographs in black and white or in color. Text in German, hardbound in linen. Price Swiss Francs...
The Big Bend Highway. When completed, the road between Golden and Revelstoke will establish a Canadian highway between the prairies and the coast, the Selkirk Range being the last barrier between roads already constructed from Lake Louise across K...
Bhagirathi III Attempt. Seven Czechs led by Dr. Miroslav Coubal attempted a new route on the rocky west wall of Bhagirathi III (6454 meters, 21,175 feet) but due to inclement weather they failed, reaching 5800 meters on September 5. The team inclu...
HERBERT J. KOTHE 1906-1986Herbert J. Kothe died on April 1, 1986 at the age of eighty. He joined the American Alpine Club in 1943. At that time he lived in New York. He later moved to Connecticut and in the early 1970s to Sarasota, Florida. He is ...
Nemjung Attempt. Brian Ottewell, Dave McCarthy, Ray Harris and I attempted Nemjung (7140 meters, 23,425 feet) by its south face and west ridge. We established Base Camp, Camps I, II, III and IV on October 10, 15, 22, November 1 and 2 at 14,500, 15...
North Tower of Asgard, North Face, Nunavut. From July 4 to 21, 1996, Txus Lizarraga, Raul Melero, Natxo Barriuso and I (all from Basque Country, Spain) put up the route Nunavut (VI 5.8 A4, 800m) on the north face of Asgard’s North Tower. (See note...
FALL ON ICEOregon, Mount Hood, Leuthold CouloirOn May 28, approximately 0600: Three of us (Michele and Tim McCall, and Ken), climbers from Eugene Mountain Rescue, were climbing the Leuthold Couloir route. A party of six was ahead of us. The last r...
Alto Ritacuba and Other Peaks, Cordillera Oriental. In late December 1980, I made alone the following ascents: from a camp near Laguna (lake) de Cardenillo, Nevado Alto Ritacuba (5464 meters, 17,926 feet) on December 24, Ritacuba Norte (Nevado de ...
Cathedral Mountain, Various Activity. On April 1, Tom Jones and I established the nine-pitch Fool’s Buttress (III 5.8 A0), which ascends the northeast buttress of Cathedral Mountain. Two pitches of fourth-class friction on the left side of the sub...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Mount MeekerOn August 14, Scot Eden (25) was injured while attempting to descend from a partial ascent of Left Gully (a.k.a. Dream Weaver—II, AI 2...
Lashar I, first ascent of peak via south face; Janak, south face, attempt. I first saw the south face of Janak (7,041m) in autumn 2000, when leading an expedition to Jongsang, Pathibara, and Kiratchuli. From the upper Broken Glacier the southwest ...
Diran Tragedy, 1993. On page 262 of AAJ, 1993, reference was made to the death of Spaniards Francesc Xavier Socias and José Carlos Mármol from Mallorca on Diran. The pair were at Camp II on the normal north-face, west-ridge route at 6100 meters on...