1951–011959–0120022002USACANUSACANTerrainRock39544749916Snow2230335324Ice22212769River13310Unknown22800Ascent or DescentAscent255351610417Descent21123473311Unknown247701OtherN.B.5010Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock2768256737Slip on snow or ice8...

Kluane Pinnacle of the Yukon, edited by John B. Theberge with the assistance of George W. Douglas. Line drawings by Mary Theberge. Garden City, New York, Doubleday and Co., Inc. 1980. 175 pages. Profusely illustrated with 32 pages of color and num...

Pumari Chhish, South Face, Attempt. The south face of Pumari Chhish (7492m) rises 3000 meters from the Jutmal Glacier. This complex face is threatened on most aspects by high hanging seracs, and the line Julie-Ann Clyma and I took followed an obvi...

Taulliraju, north face to final cornice. In late June Micah Retz and I set off to the beautiful Taulliraju (5,830m), wanting to climb a new route. After watching the direct southwest face avalanche a few times, we headed over the west col with a f...

1951-84USA1959-84CAN.1985USA1985CAN.TerrainRock207826415017Snow1333226366Ice963974River12300Unknown14620Ascent or DescentAscent176826915714Descent13481863113Unknown2204170Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock12851291149Slip on snow or ice521101205Fa...

FALL ON ROCK-HANDHOLD CAME OFF, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTEOregon, Mount Washington, West FaceJWS (40) and I (BC, 42) attempted the West Face route on Mount Washington on August 21. It is rated a 5.6 in Jeff Thomas’ guide Oregon High.We are average cl...

Kashmir Himal. Four Americans, Leslie Wheeler, David Graber, Joel Bown and I, joined four Kashmiris, Mohammed Ashraf, Vijay Kumar, Nazeer Ahmad, and Mohammed Aslam, for the first ascent of Tuliyan Peak (15,900 feet). On June 1, we reached the summ...

To Stand at the Pole—The Dr. Cook-Admiral Peary North Pole Controversy. William R. Hunt. Stein and Day, New York, 1981. 288 pages. 21 photographs. $19.95.To Stand at the Pole is an extremely interesting discussion of the Dr. Cook- Admiral Peary co...

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDWyoming, Wind River Range, Mount BonnevilleOn September 6, Ken Koski (56) fell to his death while either ascending or descending the Southeast Ridge of Mount Bonneville. He was in 4th and 5th class terrain.A...

Aguja Val Biois, Mi Mundo de Contradicciones; Fitz Roy (3,405m), Pilar Goretta, Crux del Sur; Aguja de la Silla (2,938m), Destreza Criolla. Last season, after opening Al Abordaje!, a new route on the west face of Fitz Roy’s Goretta Pillar, I desce...

Ala Dag Mountains, Demirkazik, east face, Uc Muz. Parmakkaya, east face, Mezza Luna Nascente. Occasionally in jazz three people from different backgrounds join forces to form a trio, with the aim of playing just one type of music. In 2003 Rolando ...

Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Pagoda Peak. On 18 June Dave Whiteman and Steve Day started off from Black Lake at 0445 to climb the west ridge of Pagoda. They cramponed up the snow tongue to the Pagoda — Chiefshead col which they reached ...

FALL ON ROCK, IMPROPER RAPPEL ANCHOR REPLACEMENT, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Royal Arches—Devil’s BathtubOn October 16, 1991, James Murphy (25) fell over 100 feet when his rappel anchor came loose from the tree around which it had be...

Lobsang SpireDouglas Scott, Alpine Climbing GroupTHE PROBLEM with Himalayan holidays is that very little actual climbing takes place. We planned our 1983 expedition to the Karakoram hoping to remedy this state of affairs. In 1981 I booked K2 and B...

Summit: Vittorio Sella, Mountaineer and Photographer, The Years 1879-1909. Essays by Ansel Adams, David Brower, Greg Child, Paul Kalmes and Wendy Watson. Newark, NJ: Aperture, 1999. 125 duotone photographs. 129 pages. $50.00.Vittorio Sella’s eye, ...

FALLING ROCK - BLOCK CAME OFF, FALL ON ROCK – INADEQUATE PROTECTION, BAD LUCK/GOOD LUCKCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, EI CapitanOn August 24 in late afternoon, Kyung Bok Su (47) and three Korean partners finished pitch 19 of the Nose route (31 pitch...

Hoggar Mountains, general notes and new route activity. Algeria is comprised of two big mountain ranges: the Atlas chain in the north, and the Sahara in the south, including the Hoggar, which has a surface area similar to that of France. Due to th...

Activity in Yosemite Valley. On the free climbing scene, this year’s big news was the third free ascent, in July, of the Salathé Wall by Thomas Huber, accompanied by fellow German Anderl Heiss. Huber led all the cruxes, including the difficult 19t...

CONRAD KAIN1883-1934In the little village of Nasswald, Lower Austria, not far from Vienna, Conrad Kain was born on August 10th, 1883. His death occurred in hospital at Cranbrook, British Columbia, on February 2, 1934. These dates bound the life-sp...

EVELYN RUNNETTE1904-1984The first time I met Evelyn Runnette she was hanging upside down in a tree—caught by her skis—on Berthoud Pass, Colorado. Her deep love of mountains led her into many activities; she skied, she climbed, she trekked, she boa...