Winifred Peak. Gerry Holdsworth and I did what appears to be a new route on Winifred Peak in the Titcomb Lakes area of the Wind Rivers on September 14. The route is similar to the suggested route 2 on the peak in Bonney’s guide to the Wind Rivers....
FALL ON ROCK, WEATHERNew Hampshire, Rattlesnake MountainOn September 17, 1994, Leon Kaatz fell down a wet rock slab while trying to set up a handline for friends with whom he was hiking. Kaatz is a climber, and this hiking situation called for cli...
Popocatepetl. The Aztec name means “Smoking Mountain.” According to legend, Popocatepetl, a warrior, was enamored of Ixtaccihuatl, daughter of the emperor. When Popocatepetl was returning from victory in war to claim his beloved, his rivals sent w...
Logan Mountains. The first Austrian Big Wall Expedition was composed of Gustav Ammerer, Michael Hoffman, Karl Kosa, Hilda and Rudi Lindner, Ernst Machacek, Erwin Weilguny and me. The aim of the expedition was to practice extreme rock-climbing un...
Mount Logan, North Face. On September 7, Rob Sweeney and I completed a new route on the North Face of Mount Logan. Like Mount Goode to the south it is composed of Skagit Gneiss and although not of granitic quality the climbing was exhilarating. Th...
TABLE IYearTotal Number of Reported AccidentsNumber of Deaths1947151119482815194917919503081951184195235141953251219543181955346195646101957451719582911
Peak 12,600'+, Direct Northeast Face, Consolation Prize, Previously Unreported. In August, 1998, Bob Cable and I climbed the large pyramid-shaped unnamed peak half a mile north of the twin summits of Seven Gables. The peak, as seen from the Seven ...
Tirsuli. This twin-peaked mountain, which rises near Hardeol above the Milam Glacier in eastern Garhwal, should not be confused with Trisul, which lies on the other side of Nanda Devi. It had first been attempted in 1939 by a Polish expedition but...
Peaks in the Wrangell Range. Don Brooks, leader, James Meigs, assistant leader, Stu Brody, Art Kampen, Tom Miller and Dave Shrimpton abandoned their original objective, the northeast ridge of Blackburn, after seeing the route from the summit of Ri...
In July 1981, Patrick Paul and I completed another four-pitch route on the southwest face. Where Eagles Dare lies a couple of hundred yards west (left) of the original south face route (The Dance of Topo-Usha, 1980). It follows an obvious crack-an...
El Capitan, North America Wall. On September 6 Dennis Hennek and I completed the second ascent of the North America Wall on the southeast face of El Capitan. We made four bivouacs and were hampered by 100° temperatures.Don Lauria
Argentines in the Cordillera Blanca. Gerard Watzl and his wife Jacqueline with Heinz Kaltschmidt made the sixth ascent of Ishinka (17,717 feet) on July 4 but failed at 19,000 feet to climb Palcaraju Oeste because of the loose snow.
Sloan Peak, East Face. Jerry Fuller and I made the first climb of the east face, using a route near its south corner. The route begins just off the glacier at its highest point, then makes a rightward-climbing traverse on marvelous granitic rock. ...
The Iowa Mountaineers held a summer climbing camp in the Big Horns from August 7 to 22, based at the west end of Spear Lake. There were 342 man-ascents made by the 93 participants during the camp period. First ascents included Shipsprow (12,000 fe...
Kun. Hanns Schell, his wife Lilo, Gerhard Pressl, Robert Schauer and Karl Hub climbed Kun by the normal route. They did not attempt the traverse over Nun, which had been said to be one of their objectives.
Altar, South Face. South-face ascents in the Central Andes (the equivalent of the Alpine north faces) have been, so far, few and far apart. On March 16, G. Cassasa and the Austrian W. Bertsch climbed for the first time the south face of Altar (522...
Annapurna South, Southwest Ridge. The Meiji University expedition was made up of Yoshio Miyagawa, Toichi Mitani, Norio Nakanishi, Mas- ayuki Tsunakawa, Dr. Yoshio Kato and me as leader. The southwest ridge, which we selected, had been attempted ...
Cerro La Mano and Other Peaks, Cordón de los Penitentes. Our expedition was composed of Pablo Hülskamp, Alejandro Robert, Guido Iglesias, Gustavo Glickman, Daniel Sagalovsky and me as leader. Our chief objective was the south face of Cerro La Mano...
Jannu, North Face Attempt. Unfortunately we did not succeed on the north face of Jannu (Kumbhakarna) in spite of eight weeks on the mountain. We stopped at 23,300 feet, still three days from the summit as we calculate it. It was the most moving ex...
Mt. Foraker, southeast ridge, winter ascent. On the morning of February 8 I departed base camp (6,550') on the southwest fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. I made Camp I at 6,400 feet below the base of the southeast ridge in the evening. My route began...