Book Reviews AAJ
Two Mountains and a River

Two Mountains and a River, by H. W. Tilman. xii + 232 pages, with plates and maps. Cambridge University Press, 1949. Price, $3.75.It is probable that if Tilman were landed on the moon he would succeed in penetrating its least accessible places, li...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Domeland

Domeland. One of Domeland’s most prominent rock formations is a large crag with a smokestack tower on its south end. It was dubbed Steamship Rock by Jim Stoddard and me after we made the first ascent of its east face in November 1970. This is a fo...


Book Reviews AAJ
Escape on Skis

Escape on Skis, by Brian Meredith. 8 vo., pp. 200, with illustrations. New York: Dodge Press, 1938. Price $3.00.As one schusses through the pages of the snows of Canada and Switzerland one catches the idea of a technique which is never mentioned i...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antartica, English Coast and Eastern Ellsworth Land, 1984-5

English Coast and Eastern Ellsworth Land, 1984-5. On December 11, a seven-person U.S. Geological Survey party, including Pete Rowley, leader, Karl Kellogg, Tom Laudon, Dave Lidke, Mike O’Neill, Janet Thomson and me, flew from McMurdo Station to Fi...


Club Activities AAJ
University of Wyoming Outing Club

University of Wyoming Outing Club. Last spring the activities of the club, under the able leadership of Gary Pouch, included several noteworthy events. Among them was the second winter ascent of the Medicine Bow Diamond by J. Halfpenny, T. Warren,...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Mt. Yukla (2,297m/7,535'), North Face, Most People Are DJs Alaska, Chugach Mountains

On October 10 local Anchorage climber John Kelley and I walked to the north face of Mt. Yukla, via Icicle Creek, for some early season alpine climbing. We climbed a previously tried line that shared its start with two of John’s established routes,...

| Published N/A | Author Aaron Thrasher


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Ama Dablam West Face

Ama Dablam West Face. Our expedition was composed of Swiss Ruedi Homberger, Christian Jäggi, Willi Kuhn and Franco Giorgetta and Czechoslovaks Josef Rybicka, Michal Brunner, Jirí Havel, Miroslav Mžourek, Karel Jerhot, Günter Koch and me as leader....


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Europe, France, Museum at Lourdes

Museum at Lourdes. Visitors to the Pyrenees, when they pass through Lourdes, should not fail to visit the museum in the Chateau-Fort. Maintained since 1920 by the Touring Club of France, it is the country’s best regional museum. Besides many exhib...


Club Activities AAJ
Chicago Mountaineering Club

Chicago Mountaineering Club. During the summer the club conducted its 14th western outing, with Jack Weisman as chairman, in the Grenadier range in southwestern Colorado. Base camp was in Elk Creek Valley and was attended by 56 people. Ascents wer...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Cascade Section

A.A.C., Cascade Section. The Cascade Section had an active year in 1979. Our Activities Committee organized a slide show by the well- known British climber Chris Bonington with over 700 people attending. A scheduled slide and movie presentation by...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, Torres del Paine, North Summit of North Tower of Paine, Free Ascent

North summit of North Tower of Paine, free ascent. On February 17,2002, Allison Pennings and I climbed a new route on the west face of the north summit of the North Tower of Paine. Our route follows the route Adrenalina Vertical for two pitches be...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri V. Dr. Tesuo Matsumura was the field leader of the Kyusho University Alpine Club expedition to Dhaulagiri V (24,992 feet). While attempting the south ridge, Fukashi Chijiwa, Yukio Asano and two Sherpas were on October 5 swept down 2000 ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina—Central Andes, Aconcagua, 1989-1990 Season

Aconcagua, 1989-1990 Season. A total of 353 expeditions registered last season to climb Aconcagua: 81 from Argentina; 77, United States; 39, Germany; 30, Spain; 24, Japan; 23, France; and 11, Switzerland. With less than 10 were Brazil, Bulgaria, C...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Karakoram, Rimo Group

Rimo Group. An expedition of 25 Indian Army Engineers was led by Captain K.S. Sooch. From August 11 to 13 they divided up among seven different peaks and climbed them all. The highest one climbed was P 7159 (23,488 feet). The first ascent was made...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Aguja Saint Exupery, Austrian Ridge, First Free Ascent

Aguja Saint Exupery, Austrian Ridge, first free ascent. Beginning on January 29, ten days after we arrived in Chalten, Jonny Copp and I were treated to nearly 16 days of continuous good weather, interrupted only occasionally by 10- to 15-hour peri...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Colombia, New Routes on Pico Bolivar, Santander and Ojeda

New Routes on Picos Bolívar, Santander and Ojeda. After several weeks of difficulty both in obtaining permission from Indian authorities and in actually passing through Indian lands after permission was granted, we set up Base Camp at 15,000 feet ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice, Falling Object, Inadequate Protection, Colorado San Juan Mountains

FALL ON ICE, FALLING OBJECT, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Colorado, San Juan MountainsOn December 31, 1989, Kevin Kelley (28) was being top-roped on an ice climb near County Road 361 when he fell a little over a meter and dislodged a log (15 cm diameter ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow — Unable to Self-Arrest, Inadequate Equipment — No Headlamps, New Hampshire, Mount Washington, Huntington Ravine

FALL ON SNOW - UNABLE TO SELF-ARRESTNew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Huntington RavineOn January 25, a party of four was ascending the Fan in Huntington Ravine when one of them (3 8) fell and slid into two other people in his party, causing them t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Ultar II Attempts

Ultar II Attempts. Our expedition consisted of Japanese Masahiko Fujimori, Masaaki Mori, Satoru Miyashita, Kazuo Kishi, Shigeo Furuhata, Ken Takahashi, Kiyohiko Sugimoto and me as leader, Pakistanis Tufail, deputy leader, Raja and Mansoor, and Ame...


Book Reviews AAJ
A Tourist Guide to Mount McKinley

A Tourist Guide to Mount McKinley, by Bradford Washburn. Anchorage (Northwest Publishing Co., Box 4-EEE, Anchorage, Alaska, 99503): 1971. Size 10? × 8¼, 80 pages, with 106 black and white or color photographs, mostly by Bradford Washburn, line dra...