Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Kichatna Spires

Kichatna Spires. During the month of July a group of Alaska climbers, Clancy Crawford, Charlie Hostetler, Paul Denkewalter, Peter Sennhauser and I, climbed, skied and explored a small portion of the Cathedral Spires. A1 Curtis flew us under the cl...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face Attempt

Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Hooman Aprin, Les Ellison, Evelyn Lees and me as leader. After a few days’ delay in Rawalpindi because our liaison officer had not arrived, we were granted permission to leave without ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Südtirol

Südtirol, by J. G. Oberkofler. 157 pages of full-page photographs by Hugo Atzwanger, with interspersed sections of text. Innsbruck-Vienna: Tyrolia-Verlag, 1950. Price, $3.00.South Tyrol has many names, among them The Land of Mountains and Glaciers...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine and Chilean Patagonia, Peineta, 1990

Peineta, 1990. On page 201 of AAJ, 1991, a report appears of the ascent of a peak in the Paine group, the location of which was not known to us. The mountain lies a kilometer to the northeast of the Torre Norte del Paine and is connected to it by ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Colombia, Colón, Bolívar, El Guardián and Loma Cebolleta, Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta

Colón, Bolívar, El Guardián and Loma Cebolleta, Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Peter Devine, David Mainer and I, of a mountain climbing and spider collecting expedition of five, climbed Pico Colón (18,947 feet), and Pico Bolívar (18,943 feet) on Ja...


Accident Reports ANAM
Wyoming—Wind River Range

Wyoming—Wind River Range (1): Miss Maltby was one of a number of AMC members attending their summer outing in the Wind River Range. A sizeable party including the leaders of the outing ascended Dinwoody Peak on Sunday, August 18, 1952. In descendi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca

Cordillera Blanca. In 1993, the apparent return of political stability and less activity by the Sendero Luminoso resulted in a new interest on the part of foreign climbers in climbing in the Cordillera Blanca. The weather was less normal with more...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Umanak District

Umanak District, West Greenland. In June, July and August the late Piero Ghiglione led a small Italian expedition which explored the region between 71° and 73° north latitude on the west coast of Greenland. These mountains were relatively unexplor...


Club Activities AAJ
Chicago Mountaineering Club

Chicago Mountaineering Club. During 1957 our organization sponsored 14 local outings, which averaged about 40 people on each occasion. On non-sponsored weekends numerous groups climbed in the various local areas. Several members climbed in the Alp...


Accident Reports ANAM
British Columbia, Mount Assiniboine

British Columbia, Mount Assiniboine. On July 25th Andrew Killick (age 25) had successfully soloed Mt. Assiniboine and was descending the long snow chute at the base of the north face. The weather was overcast with temperatures in the 50’s. Killick...


Accident Reports ANAM
Slip on Ice, No Hard Hat, Inadequate Protection, British Columbia, Northern Selkirk Mountains, Mount Colossal

SLIP ON ICE, NO HARD HAT, INADEQUATE PROTECTION British Columbia, Northern Selkirk Mountains, Mount ColossalOn August 7, 1992, during the third week of the annual ACC General Mountaineering Camp at Fairy Meadows in the Adamants, the chief guide, D...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Targo Ri, First Ascent

Targo Ri, First Ascent. In October, Richard Cowper, Julian Freeman-Attwood and I made the first ascent of Targo Ri (ca. 6550m). The peak is situated between Shuru Tso (lake) and Dangra Tso, in the Chang Tang, part of the Gandisi (Trans-Himalaya) R...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Mandir Parbat

Mandir Parbat. A 10-member team led by Shankar Biswas was composed of Subrata Banerjee, Debashish Biswas, Sanjoy Das, Dr. Sujit Guha, Ajoy Mondai, Bhaskar Mukherjee, Soumajit Roy, Shyamal Sarkar and Nishi Kanta Sen. The summit (6559 meters, 21,520...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Vilcabamba, Pumasillo, 1974

Pumasillo, 1974. New Zealanders Alison Watkins and Howard Conway completed the west ridge on Pumasillo on June 17, 1974 after two-and-a-half days of climbing.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Sanford

Mount Sanford. On the afternoon of April 26 Jack Wilson landed Jerry Bernas, Rudi Schmidt, Sepp Weber and me at 7200 feet on the Sheep Glacier. That evening we dumped a food cache beside the ice dome at 9200 feet. On the 27 th we moved on skis pas...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Churen Himal Attempt

Churen Himal Attempt. An expedition of nine Italians led by Adriano Favre attempted to climb Churen Himal (7371 meters, 24,183 feet) by the west ridge from the south. They reached a high point of 6600 meters on October 29.Elizabeth Hawley


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Mount Turnweather and Other Peaks, Cumberland Peninsula, Baffin Island Canada, Baffin Island

In July Clark Gerhardt and I visited the Cumberland Peninsula. Since the ice was breaking up when we flew into Pangnirtung on June 29, we could not use canoes or snowmobiles to travel 18 miles up the fjord to Canada’s new Auyuittuq National Park. ...

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Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Ecuador, Chimborazo, West Face, New Route

Chimborazo, West Face, New Route. On February 7, I climbed (solo) a new route on Chimborazo's west face. The route lies between the Southwest Ridge (regular route) and the Whymper Route (approximate west ridge) and follows a long series of ephemer...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Anchor Failure — Unfinished Knot, Virginia, Blue Ridge Parkway, Ravens Roost

FALL ON ROCK, ANCHOR FAILURE – UNFINISHED KNOTVirginia, Blue Ridge Parkway, Ravens Roost,During the mid-afternoon on June 15, Jonathan Sullivan (20) fell approximately 100 feet to his death at Ravens Roost Overlook along the Blue Ridge Parkway.He ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mount Huxley, North Buttress, Left and Right Sides

Mount Huxley, North Buttress, Left and Right Sides. As seen from Evolution Lake, the north buttress of Mount Huxley (13,086') rises into a classic horn split by a deep cirque. In July, Dick Duane and I climbed a series of perfect finger cracks on ...