Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Umanak District

Umanak District, West Greenland. In June, July and August the late Piero Ghiglione led a small Italian expedition which explored the region between 71° and 73° north latitude on the west coast of Greenland. These mountains were relatively unexplor...


Club Activities AAJ
Chicago Mountaineering Club

Chicago Mountaineering Club. During 1957 our organization sponsored 14 local outings, which averaged about 40 people on each occasion. On non-sponsored weekends numerous groups climbed in the various local areas. Several members climbed in the Alp...


Accident Reports ANAM
British Columbia, Mount Assiniboine

British Columbia, Mount Assiniboine. On July 25th Andrew Killick (age 25) had successfully soloed Mt. Assiniboine and was descending the long snow chute at the base of the north face. The weather was overcast with temperatures in the 50’s. Killick...


Accident Reports ANAM
Slip on Ice, No Hard Hat, Inadequate Protection, British Columbia, Northern Selkirk Mountains, Mount Colossal

SLIP ON ICE, NO HARD HAT, INADEQUATE PROTECTION British Columbia, Northern Selkirk Mountains, Mount ColossalOn August 7, 1992, during the third week of the annual ACC General Mountaineering Camp at Fairy Meadows in the Adamants, the chief guide, D...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Targo Ri, First Ascent

Targo Ri, First Ascent. In October, Richard Cowper, Julian Freeman-Attwood and I made the first ascent of Targo Ri (ca. 6550m). The peak is situated between Shuru Tso (lake) and Dangra Tso, in the Chang Tang, part of the Gandisi (Trans-Himalaya) R...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Mandir Parbat

Mandir Parbat. A 10-member team led by Shankar Biswas was composed of Subrata Banerjee, Debashish Biswas, Sanjoy Das, Dr. Sujit Guha, Ajoy Mondai, Bhaskar Mukherjee, Soumajit Roy, Shyamal Sarkar and Nishi Kanta Sen. The summit (6559 meters, 21,520...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Vilcabamba, Pumasillo, 1974

Pumasillo, 1974. New Zealanders Alison Watkins and Howard Conway completed the west ridge on Pumasillo on June 17, 1974 after two-and-a-half days of climbing.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Sanford

Mount Sanford. On the afternoon of April 26 Jack Wilson landed Jerry Bernas, Rudi Schmidt, Sepp Weber and me at 7200 feet on the Sheep Glacier. That evening we dumped a food cache beside the ice dome at 9200 feet. On the 27 th we moved on skis pas...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Churen Himal Attempt

Churen Himal Attempt. An expedition of nine Italians led by Adriano Favre attempted to climb Churen Himal (7371 meters, 24,183 feet) by the west ridge from the south. They reached a high point of 6600 meters on October 29.Elizabeth Hawley


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Mount Turnweather and Other Peaks, Cumberland Peninsula, Baffin Island Canada, Baffin Island

In July Clark Gerhardt and I visited the Cumberland Peninsula. Since the ice was breaking up when we flew into Pangnirtung on June 29, we could not use canoes or snowmobiles to travel 18 miles up the fjord to Canada’s new Auyuittuq National Park. ...

| Published N/A


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Ecuador, Chimborazo, West Face, New Route

Chimborazo, West Face, New Route. On February 7, I climbed (solo) a new route on Chimborazo's west face. The route lies between the Southwest Ridge (regular route) and the Whymper Route (approximate west ridge) and follows a long series of ephemer...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Anchor Failure — Unfinished Knot, Virginia, Blue Ridge Parkway, Ravens Roost

FALL ON ROCK, ANCHOR FAILURE – UNFINISHED KNOTVirginia, Blue Ridge Parkway, Ravens Roost,During the mid-afternoon on June 15, Jonathan Sullivan (20) fell approximately 100 feet to his death at Ravens Roost Overlook along the Blue Ridge Parkway.He ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mount Huxley, North Buttress, Left and Right Sides

Mount Huxley, North Buttress, Left and Right Sides. As seen from Evolution Lake, the north buttress of Mount Huxley (13,086') rises into a classic horn split by a deep cirque. In July, Dick Duane and I climbed a series of perfect finger cracks on ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Range, Winifred Peak

Winifred Peak. Gerry Holdsworth and I did what appears to be a new route on Winifred Peak in the Titcomb Lakes area of the Wind Rivers on September 14. The route is similar to the suggested route 2 on the peak in Bonney’s guide to the Wind Rivers....


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Weather, New Hampshire, Rattlesnake Mountain

FALL ON ROCK, WEATHERNew Hampshire, Rattlesnake MountainOn September 17, 1994, Leon Kaatz fell down a wet rock slab while trying to set up a handline for friends with whom he was hiking. Kaatz is a climber, and this hiking situation called for cli...


Notes AAJ
Popocateptl

Popocatepetl. The Aztec name means “Smoking Mountain.” According to legend, Popocatepetl, a warrior, was enamored of Ixtaccihuatl, daughter of the emperor. When Popocatepetl was returning from victory in war to claim his beloved, his rivals sent w...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Northwest Territories, Logan Mountains

Logan Mountains. The first Austrian Big Wall Expedition was composed of Gustav Ammerer, Michael Hoffman, Karl Kosa, Hilda and Rudi Lindner, Ernst Machacek, Erwin Weilguny and me. The aim of the expedition was to practice extreme rock-climbing un...

| Keywords
| Published 1977 | Author Erich Lackner


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Mount Logan, North Face

Mount Logan, North Face. On September 7, Rob Sweeney and I completed a new route on the North Face of Mount Logan. Like Mount Goode to the south it is composed of Skagit Gneiss and although not of granitic quality the climbing was exhilarating. Th...


Accident Tables ANAM
Table I

TABLE IYearTotal Number of Reported AccidentsNumber of Deaths1947151119482815194917919503081951184195235141953251219543181955346195646101957451719582911


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Contiguous United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Peak 12,600'+, Direct Northeast Face, Consolation Prize, Previously Unreported

Peak 12,600'+, Direct Northeast Face, Consolation Prize, Previously Unreported. In August, 1998, Bob Cable and I climbed the large pyramid-shaped unnamed peak half a mile north of the twin summits of Seven Gables. The peak, as seen from the Seven ...