FALL INTO CREVASSE and FALL INTO CREVASSE, UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Mount RainierThis report tells of two accidents which occurred within the same climbing party at 3300 meters on their descent of Mount Rainier.A part...
MARJORIE HURD 1886-1977 It was on a train to the White Mountains for a rock-climbing week end at Pinkham Notch some fifty years ago that I first got to know and appreciate Marjorie Hurd’s interest in climbing, white-water canoeing and other outdo...
Vocation Alpine, by Armand Charlet. 206 pages, with 13 illustrations and a preface by Dr. Azéma. Neuchâtel and Paris: VictorAttinger, 1949. Price, 450 francs.Armand Charlet will go down in mountaineering history as the most brilliant guide the val...
North Howser Tower, The Real Mescalito. In August, Crosby Johnston and I connected in the East Creek Basin. My schedule gave us only two days—the time it takes most parties just to make the approach and exit. We knew we’d have to light a fire unde...
FALL ON ROCK—INADEQUATE BELAY (INCLUDING NO KNOT IN THE END OF THE CLIMBING ROPE), NO HARD HATCalifornia, Tahquitz Rock, WhodunitOn May 23, my partner and I had just arrived at the base of Whodunit (5.9) about 9:00 a.m. A female belayer (c. 25) wa...
Yugoslav Climbs in the Yazgulem Glacier Area, Pamir. Our group of 14 climbed in the central Pamir from the same camp as Polish, Czechoslovakian and Soviet climbers during the second half of July and the beginning of August. In spite of relatively ...
Sierra Club. The regular summer outings of the Sierra Club in the Sierra Nevada gave opportunity for a great deal of relatively easy climbing at elevations from 12,000 to 14,496 ft. The Base Camp spent four weeks beneath the 14,000-ft. peaks seven...
The Cumbres de Monterrey “la Huasteca” National Park (la Huasteca refers to the region around the Gulf of México) is located in the metropolitan area of the city of Santa Catarina in the state of Nuevo León. Once in the park you have to follow the...
Remillard Group, Selkirks. Remillard Peak, 11.5 miles northwest of Mount Sanford is the central peak of a southwest wing of the Windy Group. The Remillard Group surrounds upper Windy Creek. The map sections containing these peaks are 82 M/9E and 8...
AVALANCHEAlaska, Mount HunterOn May 15, 1987, the two-man “Over-the-Kahiltna Gang” expedition registered at the Talkeetna Ranger Station for a climb of the west ridge of Mount Hunter. Expedition members were Ben Benson (29) and Frank Jenkins (37),...
Chamlang East. Our Netherlands women’s expedition was composed of Dr. Annet Boom, Myra de Rooy, Janka van Leeuwen, Gerda de Groene, Marjolein Meere and me as leader. Two Sherpas helped us to carry loads to Camp I. Base Camp at 4850 meters was esta...
RAPPEL ERROR-ROPES UNEVEN, FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Arch RockOn June 9, Megan Polk, (27) and Brian O’Day hiked up to Anticipation, a short 5.11b climb at Arch Rock. They climbed the initial 5.9 pitch (about 50 feet) to a sma...
Nevado Pucahirca Norte I, The Power of Perspective.In August 1979 Jack Miller organized the first commercial trek from the village of Huilca, on the western slopes of the northern Cordillera Blanca, up the Quebrada Alpamayo and over the main divid...
Korean ClimbingCAPT. FREDERICK M. GOLOMB and THOMAS A. MUTCHKorea is a country few mountaineers visit by choice, but in recent years many people, climbers and others, have found themselves in this land of rice paddies, crowded towns, and mountains...
International Training Camp, Crimea, USSRJohn WatermanJOHN Griffith, Jineen Janetsky and I represented the American Alpine Club in the gathering of young mountaineers from Japan, Holland, Poland, Czechoslovakia, Hungary, East Germany, the United S...
“Mountaineering,” Encyclopaedia Britannica, 14th Edition, 1929. Vol. 15, pp. 929-932 with 2 pp. illus.This subject has been handled by the well-known authorities William Martin Conway, Arnold Lunn, and Howard Palmer. The article is divided into se...
A History Of Mountain Climbing. Roger Frison-Roche and Sylvain Jouty. Flammarion: Paris and New York, 1996. Hardback, large format, numerous color plates and photographs. 236 pages. $65.A history of mountaineering, lavishly illustrated, in a coffe...
Cordon Cachi-Palermo, first complete traverse. Cachi-Palermo is an isolated range located in the Argentine province of Salta. Its two main summits, Cachi-Libertador (6,380m) and Palermo (6,184m), are linked by a long and previously unexplored ridg...
Mount Logan. We did the standard King Col route on Mount Logan with camps in the King Trench (10,700 feet), King Col (13,500 feet), at 15,500 feet, by the Arctic Institute research camp at 17,600 feet and west of the west peak at 18,200 feet. On J...
Potomac Appalachian Trail Club. It has been an interesting and active year for the Mountaineering Section (MS). The membership has been extremely active in rock climbing, mountaineering, and conservation projects.Last year, the club supported a tr...