Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Colombia, Pico Colón and Other Peaks

Pico Colón and Other Peaks. We entered the Sierra by way of Nabusimake (San Sebastián) in January. The Indians, who own the land around the range, gave our Venezuelan expedition permission to stay twelve days in all and charged us $10 per day. Eur...


Club Activities AAJ
Harvard Mountaineering Club

At the spring dinner of the Harvard Mountaineering Club the following officers were elected for the term 1931-1932: President, Alden F. Megrew; Vice-President, A. B. Callender; Secretary, F. Q. Brown, Jr.; Treasurer, H. B. Washburn, Jr.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming—Tetons, Yosemite Point, North Face

Yosemite Point, North Face. On August 4, Peter Koedt and Rich Kettler made the first climb of this short and moderate face which rises above the forks of Cascade Canyon.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Tsurup, Direct Southwest Face

Tsurup, Direct Southwest Face. The route climbed by Juan Antonio Lorenzo and me started up the southwest face the same as that climbed by Fear, Lahr, Malataux and Ridgeway in 1972, (A.A.J1973, pages 325-7) but where they traversed upwards to the l...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Lixin and Changste

Lixin and Changste. It was reported that a group of Italians climbed two 7000-meter peaks last spring. Claudio Bastrntaz reached the top of Lixin Peak (7113 meters) on May 13 while his partner, Dando Pignataro, stopped at around 7000 meters. On Ma...


Book Reviews AAJ
Front Range Panorama

Front Range Panorama, edited by Louisa W. Arps and published by the Colorado Mountain Club. Price $3.75.The Panorama consists of a cardboard folder 12” x 9" which opens like a double record album to reveal two pockets. In the left pocket is one l...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Hayes Range, Mt. Balchen, West Face

Mt. Balchen, west face. In early March Michael Williams and I landed on the west side of the dry Gillam Glacier on a snow-covered gravel bar. We hiked and skied 15 miles up to the base of the west buttress of Mt. Balchen (11,140'). Above our base ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Illness, New Hampshire, Catherdral Ledge

ILLNESSNew Hampshire, Cathedral LedgeIn August 1981, Chris Armelagos (25) was 20 feet up the first pitch of Refuse when he went into full cardiac arrest with no spontaneous pulse or respiration. CPR was begun immediately by climbers, including EMT...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Placed Inadequate Protection, No Hard Hat, California, Yosemite Valley, Reed's Pinnacle

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HARD HATCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Reed's PinnacleOn September 23, Aram Marks (21) was leading Stone Groove, a one-pitch 5.10b crack at Reed’s Pinnacle. Tricia (29) was belayi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Kashmir and Ladakh, Peaks in Barnaj and Chiring Valleys

Peaks in Barnaj and Chiring Valleys. The North of England Kishtwar Expedition made several first ascents in August and September. We had initially hoped to attempt Barnaj II from the north but inspection showed an impossible river crossing and so ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington-Cascades, Cuthroat Peak, East Face of North Summit, North Cascades

Cutthroat Peak, East Face of North Summit, North Cascades. Joe Bajan and I on September 21 did this fine route, which is about 500 feet north of the Chouinard and Burdo routes on the main east face. We followed granite flakes just right of the obv...


Accident Reports ANAM
California, Yosemite National Park

California, Yosemite National Park. On 26 September while descending a boulder field with a slope of approximately 45°, Gary Leonard (25) stepped out onto a large boulder about the size of a dining room table. It tipped forward, causing him to jum...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rocke, Inadequate Protection, California, Yosemite Valley

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn September 3, 1983, Peter Kohl (20) and climbing partner Robert Fostner were starting the first pitch of the South Face of Washington Column. Kohl, who was leading, had progressed pas...


Club Activities AAJ
Mountaineering Club of Alaska

Mountaineering Club of Alaska. All in all, 1977 was a quiet year for the Mountaineering Club of Alaska. The club continued its interest in the Chugach Mountains, which lie at our doorstep. However, we also had members climbing in the Talkeetnas an...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Garhwal, Dunagiri

Dunagiri. Polish students led by Grzegorz Benke repeated the original Swiss route and made what is probably the seventh ascent of Dunagiri (7066 meters, 23,183 feet). Benke and Andrzej Hartmann reached the summit on August 18 after nights in camps...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Ruby Wall

Ruby Wall. In September, Malcolm Ives and I added a third new route to this fine wall, “Wide Sargasso Sea.” Our climb takes a direct line to the summit, staying right of Galen Rowell’s 1982 route until the summit dihedral. Eight pitches with a del...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Scree Slope, Inexperience, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Tower of Babel

FALL ON SCREE SLOPE, INEXPERIENCE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Tower of BabelOn June 8, 1985, three scramblers had ascended the Tower of Babel at Moraine Lake by the trail up the back side. They decided to return by the normal descent route, the scr...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Kashmir and Ladakh, Barnaj II, Padar, Kishtwar

Barnaj II, Padar, Kishtwar. Our expedition comprised Jim Curran, Tony Riley, Bob Toogood, John Yates, liaison officer Hanuman Suthar and me. Toogood fell ill and had to return home from Massu. Late processing of our application in Delhi held us up...


Book Reviews AAJ
North Face in Winter

North Face in Winter by Toni Hiebeier. Translated from the German Im Banne der Spinne by Hugh Merrick. New York: J. B. Lippincott Co., 1963. 121 pages, 21 photographs. Price $3.95.Hiebeler’s account of the first winter ascent of the Eigerwand is a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India-Garhwal, Manda

Manda. Our members were Masatosi Sasaki, Tomoyuki Sogabe, Takanori Sasaki, Hiroyuki Kawaguchi and I. We set up Base Camp on May 29 at 13,775 feet at Kedarganga Kharak. We set up Camp I on June 2 on the Manda Glacier at 16,400 feet and Camp II on J...