On June 13, Michael Sanchez Adams (Chile) made a probable new variation (900m, D+ 70-80° M1/M2), solo, to the classic Southwest Face route. He began at 3 a.m., believing that he was on the classic route but he actually was farther right, on the ...
K2. Our 16-member expedition was led by Kazuo Tobita. We reached our provisional Base Camp at 5200 meters on June 10. Then we carried our loads ourselves and moved Base Camp to 5500 meters at the base of the Abruzzi Ridge, which we set up on June ...
Mount Everest. The 1936 expedition to Everest was particularly unfortunate in its weather conditions. It avoided the long and circuitous route of approach of the former expeditions over the Phari Plain by going through Northern Sikkim and arrived ...
Various ascents. In March Marcelo Brandán, Nicolás Pantaleón, and Angel Ireba made the second or third ascent to the subsidiary summit (6,600m, S27°02'12.4" W68°17'37.8") of Incahuasi, reaching it from a route previously used to ascend the highest...
Rearguard North Face. Although Rearguard, Robson’s 9,000-foot subsidiary peak, is normally a very easy climb, its imposing northern rock face, towering 3,500 feet above the valley, had never been conquered. A steep northerly snow couloir had previ...
Watchman, West Face. On April 14 and 15, Stephen Mitchell, Charles Sink and I did a new route on the west face of the Watchman in Zion National Park. A previous party had been up one pitch but we saw no further evidence. We entered the dihedral sy...
Lone Pine Peak, Direct South Face. On March 13, Alois Smrz and I took advantage of the winter snow pack to ski (rather than to bushwhack) the manzanita-choked north fork of Tuttle Creek to the 9200-foot start of the route. After caching our skis, ...
South Parbati, Southwest Ridge, Attempt. Martin Chester, Iain Peter, and I flew to Delhi on September 12, left Delhi on September 15, and arrived in Manihorai on the 17th, where we met our Nepalese porters and cook. The five-day trek up the Parbat...
Pumori. After acclimatizing on nearby Lobuche, Briton Callum MacKay, Americans Evan Kaplan and I reached the summit of Pumori on October 16 from Camp I at 20,500 feet on the southeast ridge, thus completing the 47th ascent of the mountain. The fou...
Staunings Alper, Complete North-South Traverse. The very rugged mountains, the Staunings Alper, which lie at 72° north latitude, were traversed for the first time along their entire length between July 28 and August 30, from Kap Petersen to Syd Ka...
In 2010 the Russian Championships were to be held in the Karavshin, but the events in Kyrgyzstan forced them to be moved to Erydag. Michael Borich and Sergey Dashkevich attended because Borich needed another 6B to become a Master of Sport. But Das...
HELEN MALCOLM LE CONTE1905-1985Helen Malcolm Le Conte died in San Francisco on July 11 at the age of 80. She had been a member of the American Alpine Club since 1933 and had a lifetime interest in the moutains. She was bom in Berkeley and lived al...
Kuilu Range, first ascents. Gaizka Bilbao and Belen Menedez from Spain, with Amando Niño de Rivera (Mexico) and Gerard van der Berg (Holland), climbed two new routes in the Karator Valley of the Kuilu Range, first visited by an ISM expedition in 2...
Kokthang Attempt. An Indian team led by Dilip Kolhatkar had the dubious distinction of being the first Indian expedition to run into trouble with the new Government of Sikkim rules for mountaineers. They were stopped at a local police check point ...
King’s Canyon Obelisk, Hands of Fate. This route lies on the north face of the King’s Canyon Obelisk, following the obvious crack system left of the North Face—West Arête Route. An easy pitch led to the base of the crack, where two small overhangs...
Mount Blackburn, North Ridge Attempt. On May 15, Aspen climbers Jim Gile, Steve Marolt and Mike Marolt were flown to the 10,000-foot level of Mount Blackburn to attempt the North Ridge. On the same day, they climbed to 13,000 feet. During the nigh...
Cheru (Queer), Sichuan, 1988. A joint Japanese-Chinese expedition of Kobe University and the China College of Geology at Wuhan made the first ascent of Cheru (6168 meters, 20,237 feet; 31° 30' N, 99° E). There were 8 Japanese and 12 Chinese. It to...
Cho Oyu. The International Women’s Expedition, which was attempting the third ascent of Cho Oyu (26,867 feet), met with tragedy, resulting in the death of the Belgian, Claudine van der Stratten, of two Sherpas and of the leader Claude Kogan, the p...
Mount Foraker, Southeast Ridge and Mount McKinley, Cassin Ridge. On May 28 my brother Don Frederickson, Todd Bibler, Tom Ormond and I left the Kahiltna Glacier for the southeast ridge of Mount Foraker with supplies for a week. We set up Camp I at ...
California, Yosemite (2)—On June 28, 1956 Larry Hawley (19), an employee of the National Park Service, suffered a broken neck, shoulder, ribs, and collar bone when he fell while descending a chimney about one mile west of Taft Point. He and Mark P...