In 2010 the Russian Championships were to be held in the Karavshin, but the events in Kyrgyzstan forced them to be moved to Erydag. Michael Borich and Sergey Dashkevich attended because Borich needed another 6B to become a Master of Sport. But Das...
HELEN MALCOLM LE CONTE1905-1985Helen Malcolm Le Conte died in San Francisco on July 11 at the age of 80. She had been a member of the American Alpine Club since 1933 and had a lifetime interest in the moutains. She was bom in Berkeley and lived al...
Kuilu Range, first ascents. Gaizka Bilbao and Belen Menedez from Spain, with Amando Niño de Rivera (Mexico) and Gerard van der Berg (Holland), climbed two new routes in the Karator Valley of the Kuilu Range, first visited by an ISM expedition in 2...
Kokthang Attempt. An Indian team led by Dilip Kolhatkar had the dubious distinction of being the first Indian expedition to run into trouble with the new Government of Sikkim rules for mountaineers. They were stopped at a local police check point ...
King’s Canyon Obelisk, Hands of Fate. This route lies on the north face of the King’s Canyon Obelisk, following the obvious crack system left of the North Face—West Arête Route. An easy pitch led to the base of the crack, where two small overhangs...
Mount Blackburn, North Ridge Attempt. On May 15, Aspen climbers Jim Gile, Steve Marolt and Mike Marolt were flown to the 10,000-foot level of Mount Blackburn to attempt the North Ridge. On the same day, they climbed to 13,000 feet. During the nigh...
Cheru (Queer), Sichuan, 1988. A joint Japanese-Chinese expedition of Kobe University and the China College of Geology at Wuhan made the first ascent of Cheru (6168 meters, 20,237 feet; 31° 30' N, 99° E). There were 8 Japanese and 12 Chinese. It to...
Cho Oyu. The International Women’s Expedition, which was attempting the third ascent of Cho Oyu (26,867 feet), met with tragedy, resulting in the death of the Belgian, Claudine van der Stratten, of two Sherpas and of the leader Claude Kogan, the p...
Mount Foraker, Southeast Ridge and Mount McKinley, Cassin Ridge. On May 28 my brother Don Frederickson, Todd Bibler, Tom Ormond and I left the Kahiltna Glacier for the southeast ridge of Mount Foraker with supplies for a week. We set up Camp I at ...
California, Yosemite (2)—On June 28, 1956 Larry Hawley (19), an employee of the National Park Service, suffered a broken neck, shoulder, ribs, and collar bone when he fell while descending a chimney about one mile west of Taft Point. He and Mark P...
FALL ON ICE, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST OR BELAY—Alaska, Mt. Foraker. On the morning of March 24, David Dausel (23) and Dan Solie (21) were climbing at the 13,500 foot level on Mt. Foraker’s west ridge. They were 100 vertical feet below the other roped...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED California, Morro Bay, Morro RockOn January 21, Jody Walker (17) of St. Helena died from head and neck injuries after he plunged about 100 feet from Morro Rock while climbing its northwest face.“When our pa...
Attempt on Mount Hunter, South Ridge, Alaska Range. Our British Yukon River Expedition, Barrie Biven and I, took out time from navigating the entire length of the Yukon River. From Tanana we decided to reach the mountains by rail and air. We got t...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount YamnuskaOn May 13, D. B. reported a climbing accident to Bow Valley Provincial Park Rangers. The accident occurred on the second pitch of the Red Shirt Route on Mount...
Trisul I Attempt. A Spanish expedition, led by L. Juan Esteben and composed of nine members, attempted the west face of Trisul (7120 meters). They established C2 at 5560 meters on August 12. No further progress was possible due to heavy rains.Hari...
Standing Rock. The first ascent of the Standing Rock was made by Layton Kor and me on October 13-15. Kor led 50 feet late in the afternoon of the first day. Next day he and Steve Komito reached a point two- thirds of the distance to the summit and...
Sorcerer Needle, East Face. In The Needles, there are a number of interesting crack systems. Seen from a distant perspective, the break in the wall on the east face of the Wizard-Sorcerer massif, appears as a “natural”. Jim Stoddard and I packed t...
Chimborazo, Descent on Skis. On March 9 the Frenchman Thierry Renard, accompanied by Ecuadorians Rafael Gómez and Manuel Santa-maría, reached the top of Chimborazo, having established camps at 15,600 and 17,700 feet. Renard descended from the summ...
Eiger North Face, Harlin Direct Route, Switzerland. Fourth Ascent (First American Ascent) (Grade VI, ED Sup): One cold October night, Alex Macintyre of England and I crept into Grindelwald just below the Eiger. It is difficult to look to the Swiss...
Dongxung is the most northerly of a duster of peaks, several more than 6,000m, that lie a short distance south of the town of Yangbajain (Yangpachen). These peaks lie south of, but close to, the southwestern end of the Nyanchen Tanglha. Only one i...