Cerro Torre. On January 10 Josef Heinl, Karl Schrag and I began our Patagonian adventure. Although we had hoped to climb the Cerro Torre by a new route, we are pleased to have got to the summit by the 1970 Maestri route on the southeast buttress o...
Vampire Spire, The Coffin and The Dark Side. On July 17 Pat Goodman and I began what seems to have become our annual journey to the Vampire region of Canada’s Northwest Territories. A blown alternator left us stranded in Fort St. John, B.C., for t...
Kangchenjunga Winter Ascent, 1988. A South Korean expedition led by Jung Sang-Moo made a winter ascent of the southwest face of Kangchenjunga. Lee Jeong-Chel made the 24th ascent of the mountain on January 2, 1988. On the way to Base Camp, a membe...
FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPEDColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Notchtop MountainOn July 1,1984, after completing a successful ascent of the Spiral Route on Notchtop Mountain, Charles Sperry (20) and Lee Jamieson (19) unroped a...
Cuerno Chico, Southwest Face, New Route. On March 9, Kimburly Schembari and I established a new route, Loco Corazon (5.9, 4 pitches), on the southwest face of Cuerno Chico (right next to the route Carlito ’s Way, by Charlie Fowler, Koky Castaneda,...
Mount Tyndall, Northeast Arête. The east face of Mount Tyndall is one of the most impressive walls in the Sierra Nevada. In early June, after spending two days watching avalanches sweep down the left side of the face, Cameron Burns and I decided t...
Chopicalqui, Burros Eslovenos to Southeast Ridge. On June 26 Matic Obid, Pavel Ferjancic, Jernej Arcon, Vladimir Makarovic, and I (all Slovenian) approached the east face of Chopicalqui via the Quebrada Ulta, as described in Brad Johnson’s Classic...
FALL ON ROCK–RAPPEL ERROR, NO HARD HATColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, RinconOn January 26, a 25-year-old man was fatally injured when he fell 20 to 30 feet in Eldorado Canyon State Park. The Boulder County Sheriff’s office said the accident ...
El Gigante, Faded Glory. In November Alard Hüfner (South Africa) and Brent Edelen (U.S.) established a 14-pitch wall route on El Gigante’s nose (between the northwest and southwest faces). Jakub Gajda (Czech Rep.) began the climb but descended due...
Washington, Mt. Shuksan. On 19 August James Sinclair (30), and Heather McPherson (26), were ascending the summit pyramid by the usual route. At this point they were overtaken and passed by a large party of climbers. One of these dislodged a large ...
On June 13, Michael Sanchez Adams (Chile) made a probable new variation (900m, D+ 70-80° M1/M2), solo, to the classic Southwest Face route. He began at 3 a.m., believing that he was on the classic route but he actually was farther right, on the ...
K2. Our 16-member expedition was led by Kazuo Tobita. We reached our provisional Base Camp at 5200 meters on June 10. Then we carried our loads ourselves and moved Base Camp to 5500 meters at the base of the Abruzzi Ridge, which we set up on June ...
Mount Everest. The 1936 expedition to Everest was particularly unfortunate in its weather conditions. It avoided the long and circuitous route of approach of the former expeditions over the Phari Plain by going through Northern Sikkim and arrived ...
Various ascents. In March Marcelo Brandán, Nicolás Pantaleón, and Angel Ireba made the second or third ascent to the subsidiary summit (6,600m, S27°02'12.4" W68°17'37.8") of Incahuasi, reaching it from a route previously used to ascend the highest...
Rearguard North Face. Although Rearguard, Robson’s 9,000-foot subsidiary peak, is normally a very easy climb, its imposing northern rock face, towering 3,500 feet above the valley, had never been conquered. A steep northerly snow couloir had previ...
Watchman, West Face. On April 14 and 15, Stephen Mitchell, Charles Sink and I did a new route on the west face of the Watchman in Zion National Park. A previous party had been up one pitch but we saw no further evidence. We entered the dihedral sy...
Lone Pine Peak, Direct South Face. On March 13, Alois Smrz and I took advantage of the winter snow pack to ski (rather than to bushwhack) the manzanita-choked north fork of Tuttle Creek to the 9200-foot start of the route. After caching our skis, ...
South Parbati, Southwest Ridge, Attempt. Martin Chester, Iain Peter, and I flew to Delhi on September 12, left Delhi on September 15, and arrived in Manihorai on the 17th, where we met our Nepalese porters and cook. The five-day trek up the Parbat...
Pumori. After acclimatizing on nearby Lobuche, Briton Callum MacKay, Americans Evan Kaplan and I reached the summit of Pumori on October 16 from Camp I at 20,500 feet on the southeast ridge, thus completing the 47th ascent of the mountain. The fou...
Staunings Alper, Complete North-South Traverse. The very rugged mountains, the Staunings Alper, which lie at 72° north latitude, were traversed for the first time along their entire length between July 28 and August 30, from Kap Petersen to Syd Ka...