RAPPEL ERROR – UNEVEN ROPE ENDS, FALL ON ROCKHigh Eagle Dome, Shuteye Ridge, CaliforniaOn October 31, after setting up a toprope, I (45) tossed down it down and rappelled. About two thirds of the way down the route, I saw one taped end of the rope...
ROSAMOND NILES1881-1958The first time I met Rosamond Niles was in 1928 when we both were attending an exhibit in New York of the magnificent paintings by the famous Russian artist, Ivan F. Choultse. Absorbed in our admiration of his mountains, glo...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION, INEXPERIENCE, INADEQUATE FOODCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, MescalitoOn September 24, on the sixth day out, Caroline Brugvin (24) took a lead fall on the 20th pitch of the Mescalito rock climbing route on El Cap...
Minimal ImpactStephen PorcellaAFTER AN EXHAUSTING FULL-DAY APPROACH HIKE, 1500 feet of talus and class-3 wet-rock scrambling, we threw down our gear and made camp amongst a pile of boulders at the base of a large rock wall. Many people had attempt...
Left Mary, The Insider. The Insider (IV+ 5.10 A1), established by Bryan Bird and me in 2001, entails nine pitches on the southeast face, in a prominent crack system running parallel to and left of the Gentleman’s Agreement. The upper half of the r...
Wind Rivers, various ascents. In the Cirque of the Towers, the south face of Wolf’s Head—specifically the striking crack left of the Beckey South Face route, splitting the upper half of the face and leading up to Darth Vader tower—recently caught ...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, PROTECTION (TOOLS) PULLED OUTNew Brunswick, The QuarryDescription: On March 1, three experienced climbers set out for a day of ice climbing at a climbing area known as the Quarry in New Brunswick. G.P., the lead...
BadlandsAt the mercy of the Torre godby Conrad AnkerNew Year’s Eve. Steve and I pace between the hut and the bench. The hut is sanctuary; the bench opens up to the mountain. What is the weather doing? Are the clouds coming from the south? Is the i...
Coffee Spire, first ascent, Greater Reward. On June 13 Paul Roderick, of Talkeetna Air Taxi, landed Cody Arnold and me, both of Anchorage, at 5,600' on the northwest fork of the Coffee Glacier, a.k.a. Middle Coffee Glacier, just east of the Ruth G...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. 1994 was a busy and eventful year for the Section. As new members join, our Section’s traditional activities have been expanding to accommodate the increase in local membership. The spring section meeting was followe...
RAPPEL ERROR-MISUSE OF GRIGRIBaffin Island, Stewart ValleyOn April 24, Drew Wilson, Kyle Dempster, Grover Shipman, Ross Cowan, and I (Pete Dronkers) left Ottawa for Baffin Island to make a first ascent in Stewart Valley. I knew of only four routes...
Eastern Fjords, ascents, descents, and exploration. From mid-April to mid-May, Brad Barlage and I explored the ski mountaineering potential of Baffin’s legendary eastern fjords. It was a highly experimental trip, as we were going into an area that...
• The American Alpine Club Research Fund was established in 1945 to promote scientific, literary, educational, or historical research and publication related to mountaineering, geology, or geography. The members appointed to the Research Committee...
Mt. Everest: A new English expedition to climb this mountain is now under way. Led by H. Ruttledge, the expedition is composed of : C. G. Crawford, Captain E. St J. Birnie, Major Hugh Boustead. P. Wyn-Harris, Dr. C. R. Greene, Dr. W. W. McLean, J....
The Puma’s Claw, by Simon Clark. Boston: Little, Brown & Co., 1959. 223 pages; 22 photographs; 3 sketch maps; 1 diagram. Price $4.95.This is a light-hearted, well-written account of the first ascent of Pumasillo (20,490 feet) sixty airline mil...
The View from the Edge: Life and Landscapes of Beverly Johnson. Gabriela Zim. Mountain N’Air Books, La Crescenta, California, 1996. 188 pages, black-and-white photographs. $17.00.In capturing the historical context and significance of Bev Johnson ...
On 21 August, Gaylord Campbell (26) and Lorraine Hough (21) were climbing on the North Face of the Grand. According to Campbell, he was leading a pitch about 20 feet above his belayer when some large falling rocks struck him, breaking his leg and ...
Everest Tragedy. A 39-man Indian Army expedition was to have been led by Colonel Prem Chand, who broke his arm shortly before the expedition left for Nepal and was replaced by Brigadier Jagjit Singh. The expedition planned to make a two-pronged at...
GeographicalDistricts1951-20002001Number of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta43112694218240British Columbia273106608305Yukon Territory332673000Ontario361065102Quebec30763000East Arctic722...
The Ascent of Mount HayesPhotographs by the authorBradford WashburnTHE Hayes Range consists of a narrow wedge of rugged peaks some 60 miles in length stretching eastward from the head of the Yanert River to the famous Black Rapids in the upper val...