Swiss Expedition from Bern to the Cordilleras Raura and Huayhuash. Our expedition climbed for eight weeks. We were Ernst Schmied, Dr. René Gürtler, Felix Marx, Erhard Wyniger, Theo and Urs Marti, Christoph Feitknecht, Paul Roth and myself as leade...
Washington, Hall Peak. (See accident report.) At the end of Skubi’s 1500 foot fall, he came to rest on steep snow only a short distance from a hiking party also on the mountain. Word of the accident was taken out immediately, and several blankets ...
Cordillera Carabaya. I spent from December 5 to 13 in the Cordillera Carabaya. On the 7th I climbed the northwest ridge of an unnamed rock peak (c. 5050 meters or 16,568 feet), north of Chichiccapac. I approached from the southwest via the Laguna ...
Technical Climbing in the Mountains of Colorado and WyomingAlbert Russell EllingwoodWHEN the history of mountaineering in the Rocky Mountains of the United States comes to be written, a new chapter will begin about the end of the first quarter of ...
ALBERT R. ELLINGWOOD1888-1934Albert R. Ellingwood died on May 12th, following an operation. He was born forty-six years ago in Cedar Rapids, Iowa, attending Colorado Springs High School and Colorado College. In 1910 he was awarded the Rhodes Schol...
Attempt on a North Ridge of Mount Logan. We were a party of five: Vince Bauer, Peter Thompson, Alice Purdy, Bob Cuthbert and I. We flew in by Great Northern Airways on June 24 from Kluane Lake to the base of our ridge on the north of Mount Logan a...
McKinley, Attempt via West Fork of the Traleika Glacier. Dave Smith, Dan Halpern, Dave Pettigrew, Lavelle Burnham and I went over Mc- Gonnagal Pass, across the Muldrow Glacier and up the Traleika Glacier to its west fork, where we located Base Cam...
Philip Smith Mountains, first ascents and exploration. I have explored a number of routes off the Accomplishment Lake pass, just below 5,000' at the head of Accomplishment Creek. The finest of all is the high route southwest to Atigun Pass. In mid...
FALL IN RIVER, PACKS TOO HEAVY, MISPERCEPTIONAlaska, McKinley RiverMy three pals and I (25, 25, 35, 39) were visiting Denali National Park with plans to climb Mount Brooks. The approach features a ford of the McKinley River. The river is a mile wi...
Annapurna. III. An Indian expedition made the first ascent of Annapurna III (24,858 feet) on May 6. The climbers were flown to Pokhara, whence they set out on May 25. Their original Base Camp was established on April 4 above Manangbhot, a mile fro...
Aguja Mermuz, West Face, and Guillaumet, Northwest Ridge. Zlatko Koren and Kiemen Mali (Slovenia) came to Piedra del Fraile Base Camp on January 28,2000. The first ten days it rained a lot, and there was even snow in BC. In bad weather, we managed...
Mt. Dan Beard, Sideburn Rib. In April, Gareth Hughes and I made the trip across the Atlantic to attempt the unclimbed east face of Mt. Dan Beard. Bad weather thwarted an early reconnaissance, but early evening on the 12th we headed over. We chose ...
Canadian Rockies, various activities. In the front ranges a dry winter, followed by a dry spring, made for great rock climbing in the summer of 2001. Taking advantage of the good conditions, visiting New Zealand climbers Mike Brown and Steve Eastw...
PAUL ALEXANDER GERHARD1943 - 1969Paul Gerhard was born in Takoma Park, Maryland, on January 15, 1943. He graduated with honors from the University of Maryland and later attended the University of California at Berkeley on Woodrow Wilson and Nation...
After warming up on über-classic Skywalk Buttress (600m, EDI 5.9) with my girlfriend Carlyle Norman and our friend Scott Everett, Craig McGee and I turned our attention to a line on the southeast face of Mt. Combatant, with hopes of establishing...
THOMAS P. BONNER 1962-1995Thomas Bonner died on March 11, 1995 from a fall while leading a rock climb on Ragged Mountain in central Connecticut. Ragged Mountain is where Tom and I first received formal climbing instruction. I think it must somehow...
The Day the Rope Broke by Ronald W. Clark. New York: Harcourt, Brace & World, Inc. Price $4.50. London: Seeker & Warburg. Price 25 s. 221 pages, frontispiece, sketch map and bibliography.This is the most exciting of the Matterhorn narrativ...
The Joys of Mountain ClimbingJames Lenox Banks, Jr.“THEN Gluck took some bread in his basket, and the bottle of water, and set off very early for the mountains.”Ruskin’s words kept throbbing through my ears as Jane and I sat in the warm summer sun...
The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest. Anatoli Boukreev and G. Weston DeWalt. St. Martin’s Press: New York, 1997. 256 pages. $24.95After all that has been written about the 1996 Everest tragedy, why should we care to read yet another account? The...
The Swiss Without Halos, by J. Christopher Herold. 8vo., 271 pp. New York, 1948: Columbia University Press. Price, $3.75.Mr. Herold’s book is disingenuously titled. The Swiss Without Halos is not an exercise in debunking—quite the contrary. But no...