Aguja Mermuz, West Face, and Guillaumet, Northwest Ridge. Zlatko Koren and Kiemen Mali (Slovenia) came to Piedra del Fraile Base Camp on January 28,2000. The first ten days it rained a lot, and there was even snow in BC. In bad weather, we managed...
Mt. Dan Beard, Sideburn Rib. In April, Gareth Hughes and I made the trip across the Atlantic to attempt the unclimbed east face of Mt. Dan Beard. Bad weather thwarted an early reconnaissance, but early evening on the 12th we headed over. We chose ...
Canadian Rockies, various activities. In the front ranges a dry winter, followed by a dry spring, made for great rock climbing in the summer of 2001. Taking advantage of the good conditions, visiting New Zealand climbers Mike Brown and Steve Eastw...
PAUL ALEXANDER GERHARD1943 - 1969Paul Gerhard was born in Takoma Park, Maryland, on January 15, 1943. He graduated with honors from the University of Maryland and later attended the University of California at Berkeley on Woodrow Wilson and Nation...
After warming up on über-classic Skywalk Buttress (600m, EDI 5.9) with my girlfriend Carlyle Norman and our friend Scott Everett, Craig McGee and I turned our attention to a line on the southeast face of Mt. Combatant, with hopes of establishing...
THOMAS P. BONNER 1962-1995Thomas Bonner died on March 11, 1995 from a fall while leading a rock climb on Ragged Mountain in central Connecticut. Ragged Mountain is where Tom and I first received formal climbing instruction. I think it must somehow...
The Day the Rope Broke by Ronald W. Clark. New York: Harcourt, Brace & World, Inc. Price $4.50. London: Seeker & Warburg. Price 25 s. 221 pages, frontispiece, sketch map and bibliography.This is the most exciting of the Matterhorn narrativ...
The Joys of Mountain ClimbingJames Lenox Banks, Jr.“THEN Gluck took some bread in his basket, and the bottle of water, and set off very early for the mountains.”Ruskin’s words kept throbbing through my ears as Jane and I sat in the warm summer sun...
The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest. Anatoli Boukreev and G. Weston DeWalt. St. Martin’s Press: New York, 1997. 256 pages. $24.95After all that has been written about the 1996 Everest tragedy, why should we care to read yet another account? The...
The Swiss Without Halos, by J. Christopher Herold. 8vo., 271 pp. New York, 1948: Columbia University Press. Price, $3.75.Mr. Herold’s book is disingenuously titled. The Swiss Without Halos is not an exercise in debunking—quite the contrary. But no...
Czech Ascent of Tirich Mir. The Czechs were led by Vladimir Sedivy and were further Cervinka, Galfy, Jaskovsky, Masek, Smida, Urbanovic, Heckel and others. They climbed from the south branch of the upper Tirich Glacier, making the following ascent...
Negruni Group and Illampu, Cordillera Real. To help celebrate the 100th anniversary of the founding of the Regensburg Section of the German Alpine Club, we seven left for Bolivia on July 8, 1971 along with Christl Pfnür of Berchtesgaden. The Regen...
La Esfinge, Salida desde la Oscuridad, and Waiting for Jurek. The Polish team of Arkadiusz Grzadziel, Boguslaw Kowalski, and Jerzy Stefanski climbed a new route on the south face of La Esfinge. Their painful acclimatization included climbing up th...
1951–011959–0120022002USACANUSACANTerrainRock39544749916Snow2230335324Ice22212769River13310Unknown22800Ascent or DescentAscent255351610417Descent21123473311Unknown247701OtherN.B.5010Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock2768256737Slip on snow or ice8...
Kluane Pinnacle of the Yukon, edited by John B. Theberge with the assistance of George W. Douglas. Line drawings by Mary Theberge. Garden City, New York, Doubleday and Co., Inc. 1980. 175 pages. Profusely illustrated with 32 pages of color and num...
Pumari Chhish, South Face, Attempt. The south face of Pumari Chhish (7492m) rises 3000 meters from the Jutmal Glacier. This complex face is threatened on most aspects by high hanging seracs, and the line Julie-Ann Clyma and I took followed an obvi...
Taulliraju, north face to final cornice. In late June Micah Retz and I set off to the beautiful Taulliraju (5,830m), wanting to climb a new route. After watching the direct southwest face avalanche a few times, we headed over the west col with a f...
1951-84USA1959-84CAN.1985USA1985CAN.TerrainRock207826415017Snow1333226366Ice963974River12300Unknown14620Ascent or DescentAscent176826915714Descent13481863113Unknown2204170Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock12851291149Slip on snow or ice521101205Fa...
FALL ON ROCK-HANDHOLD CAME OFF, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTEOregon, Mount Washington, West FaceJWS (40) and I (BC, 42) attempted the West Face route on Mount Washington on August 21. It is rated a 5.6 in Jeff Thomas’ guide Oregon High.We are average cl...
Kashmir Himal. Four Americans, Leslie Wheeler, David Graber, Joel Bown and I, joined four Kashmiris, Mohammed Ashraf, Vijay Kumar, Nazeer Ahmad, and Mohammed Aslam, for the first ascent of Tuliyan Peak (15,900 feet). On June 1, we reached the summ...