Denali’s Complete Pioneer RidgeRandy WaitmanAccording to the statistics,the 5000th climber will step on Denali’s summit this summer. Incredible! Also, according to the statistics, no one had yet climbed Denali’s complete elegant Pioneer Ridge from...
82 x 4,000All of the Alps’ highest peaks in a single winter season.Miha ValicSituated in the very center of Western civilization, the Alps are criss-crossed by roads, tunnels, lifts, ski trails, and passes. Despite all that, these mountains remain...
MARK BEBIE1952-1993Mark Bebie and his friends, Steve Risse and Tom Waasdorp, died on March 20, 1993, while attempting Slipstream on Snow Dome in the Canadian Rockies.Mark was a Washington native. He grew up hiking, skiing and climbing in the Casca...
El Capitan, Tempest. June 9, 1999: I am in a doubly overhanging dihedral, approaching The Eyrie. Lulled by the morning sun, I contemplate the sand running over my knee. Suddenly, the body-sized arrowhead flake I am hooking explodes out of the corn...
TABLE IIINumbers Refer to Persons Directly Involved1951-78 1959-78 1979 1979USACAN.USACAN.TerrainRock 15521656118Snow893151577Ice46675River7200Unknown 10201Ascent or DescentAscent12241666514Descent1032107279Unknown 1761296Immediate CauseFall or sl...
Ascents in Pumasillo Group, Cordillera Vilcabamba. Our expedition included Dick Cowan, Paul Green, Bob McKerrow, Peter Goodwin, Mac Riding, Allen Higgins and myself as leader, all of New Zealand, together with John Lawrence from the North Carolina...
Aconcagua South Face Tragedy. Early in January Guy Andrews, Chuck Bludworth and I made an alpine-style ascent of the French route on the south face of Aconcagua. Departing Base Camp at 12,800 feet on December 31, 1979 after a two-week acclimatizat...
On February 18, M. C. and D. G. (ages unknown) began an ascent of Moonlight Buttress (V 5.9 Cl). They planned to climb three pitches to the “Rocker Block,” fix lines to the ground, then finish the route the following day. As a result of a late sta...
The Bugaboos, 1938Percy T. Olton, Jr.FILLED with the contentment which conies from a day of good rock climbing and an excellent supper, a number of us were sprawled around on the chairs of Marguerite Schnellbacher’s apartment when somebody mention...
The Climbing Essays. Jim Perrin. Glasgow: The In Pinn, 2006. 8 PAGES OF BLACK AND WHITE PHOTOS; 6 OF COLOR. 320 PAGES. Hardcover. £18. $44.95.In The Climbing Essays Jim Perrin has collected nearly 40 years of essays, 60 of them in all. I cannot th...
Swiss Expedition from Bern to the Cordilleras Raura and Huayhuash. Our expedition climbed for eight weeks. We were Ernst Schmied, Dr. René Gürtler, Felix Marx, Erhard Wyniger, Theo and Urs Marti, Christoph Feitknecht, Paul Roth and myself as leade...
Washington, Hall Peak. (See accident report.) At the end of Skubi’s 1500 foot fall, he came to rest on steep snow only a short distance from a hiking party also on the mountain. Word of the accident was taken out immediately, and several blankets ...
Cordillera Carabaya. I spent from December 5 to 13 in the Cordillera Carabaya. On the 7th I climbed the northwest ridge of an unnamed rock peak (c. 5050 meters or 16,568 feet), north of Chichiccapac. I approached from the southwest via the Laguna ...
Technical Climbing in the Mountains of Colorado and WyomingAlbert Russell EllingwoodWHEN the history of mountaineering in the Rocky Mountains of the United States comes to be written, a new chapter will begin about the end of the first quarter of ...
ALBERT R. ELLINGWOOD1888-1934Albert R. Ellingwood died on May 12th, following an operation. He was born forty-six years ago in Cedar Rapids, Iowa, attending Colorado Springs High School and Colorado College. In 1910 he was awarded the Rhodes Schol...
Attempt on a North Ridge of Mount Logan. We were a party of five: Vince Bauer, Peter Thompson, Alice Purdy, Bob Cuthbert and I. We flew in by Great Northern Airways on June 24 from Kluane Lake to the base of our ridge on the north of Mount Logan a...
McKinley, Attempt via West Fork of the Traleika Glacier. Dave Smith, Dan Halpern, Dave Pettigrew, Lavelle Burnham and I went over Mc- Gonnagal Pass, across the Muldrow Glacier and up the Traleika Glacier to its west fork, where we located Base Cam...
Philip Smith Mountains, first ascents and exploration. I have explored a number of routes off the Accomplishment Lake pass, just below 5,000' at the head of Accomplishment Creek. The finest of all is the high route southwest to Atigun Pass. In mid...
FALL IN RIVER, PACKS TOO HEAVY, MISPERCEPTIONAlaska, McKinley RiverMy three pals and I (25, 25, 35, 39) were visiting Denali National Park with plans to climb Mount Brooks. The approach features a ford of the McKinley River. The river is a mile wi...
Annapurna. III. An Indian expedition made the first ascent of Annapurna III (24,858 feet) on May 6. The climbers were flown to Pokhara, whence they set out on May 25. Their original Base Camp was established on April 4 above Manangbhot, a mile fro...