An Open Letter to Managers of Peak Fees and Permits in the Greater Ranges.Your high peaks are beautiful, as are the people who live in their valleys. They attract visitors from all over the world, which is a source of pride for those who live in m...
St. Elias, Southwest Buttress, Second Ascent. The Tahoma-St. Elias Expedition was made up of Cy Perkins, Stewart Ferguson, Jim Price, Jim Witte and me. From research done during planning we thought the southwest buttress would be a new route. Upon...
Bear Creek Spire, Complete East Ridge. From the air, this long knife-edged arête is one of the most spectacular features in the entire range. In August John Martinek and I spent a very long day on this 22-pitch route with an overall rating of Grad...
Vertical Ethiopia: Climbing Toward Possibility in the Horn of Africa. Majka Burhardt, with color photography by Gabe Rogel. Addis Ababa: Shama Books, 2008.Vertical Ethiopia chronicles the fascinating journey of a team of climbers who seek untouche...
Kagmara Group and Kanjiroba Himal. On our expedition to West Nepal, we were a party of five: John B. Tyson, leader; James Burnet, Dr. Robert Kendell, John Cole and I. We left Kathmandu towards the end of August and travelled via the Kali Gandaki t...
Harold Walton 1912-2002Harold Walton was born in Cornwall, England and received his Ph.D. in chemistry from Exeter College in Oxford before coming to the United States to do postdoctoral work at Princeton University.After briefly working as a rese...
New Zealand Expedition to Pumasillo Group, Cordillera Vilcabamba. English and Swiss expeditions to the Cordillera Vilcabamba sent us tempting reports of two worthy unclimbed ice peaks, Mitre (19,000 feet) and Sacsarayoc (20,000 feet) and as added ...
Mount Adams, North Wilson Glacier. As Dee Molenaar recently pointed out, the broad expanse of the great east face of Mount Adams is so extensive that several new route opportunities still exist. As soon as the road was opened, Herb Staley and I dr...
Mt. Vancouver, Attempt, and Mt. Seattle, Ascent. On June 1-4 during a prolonged spell of unsettled weather, we had a minor epic trying to approach the East Rib of Mt. Vancouver (4812m) through the complex icefall guarding the route. We escaped in ...
MARY JOBE AKELEY1886-1966Mary Jobe joined the Club in 1915. She had begun climbing in the Canadian Rockies in 1909 and in 1913, 1915 and 1917 she made pack trips, one in the late fall, into the far northern Rockies to reach and if possible to clim...
Denali’s Complete Pioneer RidgeRandy WaitmanAccording to the statistics,the 5000th climber will step on Denali’s summit this summer. Incredible! Also, according to the statistics, no one had yet climbed Denali’s complete elegant Pioneer Ridge from...
82 x 4,000All of the Alps’ highest peaks in a single winter season.Miha ValicSituated in the very center of Western civilization, the Alps are criss-crossed by roads, tunnels, lifts, ski trails, and passes. Despite all that, these mountains remain...
MARK BEBIE 1952-1993 Mark Bebie and his friends, Steve Risse and Tom Waasdorp, died on March 20, 1993, while attempting Slipstream on Snow Dome in the Canadian Rockies. Mark was a Washington native. He grew up hiking, skiing and climbing in the...
El Capitan, Tempest. June 9, 1999: I am in a doubly overhanging dihedral, approaching The Eyrie. Lulled by the morning sun, I contemplate the sand running over my knee. Suddenly, the body-sized arrowhead flake I am hooking explodes out of the corn...
TABLE IIINumbers Refer to Persons Directly Involved1951-78 1959-78 1979 1979USACAN.USACAN.TerrainRock 15521656118Snow893151577Ice46675River7200Unknown 10201Ascent or DescentAscent12241666514Descent1032107279Unknown 1761296Immediate CauseFall or sl...
Ascents in Pumasillo Group, Cordillera Vilcabamba. Our expedition included Dick Cowan, Paul Green, Bob McKerrow, Peter Goodwin, Mac Riding, Allen Higgins and myself as leader, all of New Zealand, together with John Lawrence from the North Carolina...
Aconcagua South Face Tragedy. Early in January Guy Andrews, Chuck Bludworth and I made an alpine-style ascent of the French route on the south face of Aconcagua. Departing Base Camp at 12,800 feet on December 31, 1979 after a two-week acclimatizat...
On February 18, M. C. and D. G. (ages unknown) began an ascent of Moonlight Buttress (V 5.9 Cl). They planned to climb three pitches to the “Rocker Block,” fix lines to the ground, then finish the route the following day. As a result of a late sta...
The Bugaboos, 1938Percy T. Olton, Jr.FILLED with the contentment which conies from a day of good rock climbing and an excellent supper, a number of us were sprawled around on the chairs of Marguerite Schnellbacher’s apartment when somebody mention...
The Climbing Essays. Jim Perrin. Glasgow: The In Pinn, 2006. 8 PAGES OF BLACK AND WHITE PHOTOS; 6 OF COLOR. 320 PAGES. Hardcover. £18. $44.95.In The Climbing Essays Jim Perrin has collected nearly 40 years of essays, 60 of them in all. I cannot th...