Trango Tower (6,251m), almost-free ascent of Eternal Flame. This spring, Toni met Kurt Albert, who told him about his route, Eternal Flame, on the south face of Trango Tower and the possibility of free climbing it. The result was that three months...
Kohe Keshnikhan. The Southwest German Hindu Kush Expedition was led by Karl Fücks. They drove from Germany to Wark in the Wakhan and walked for two days up the Keshnikhan valley to Base Camp at 13,750 feet. For acclimatization, on July 21 Wolfgang...
Manaslu Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition was made up of Italians Marco Bianchi, Giorgio Passino, Christian Kunter, Mario Corradini, Belgian Sven Vermeiren, Bulgarians Yordanka and Borislav Dimitrov, Poles Barbara Stocka, Sylwia Dmowska, Mariusz ...
Cerro Torre, South Face. Marko Lukic, Miha Prapotnik and I climbed an extremely difficult new route on the south face of the Cerro Torre, completed on February 25, 1994. It lies entirely to the right of the route I did with Silvo Karo in 1988. It ...
Upon That Mountain, by Eric Shipton, 222 pages, 30 illustrations and 4 maps, with a Foreword by Geoffrey Winthrop Young. London: Hodder and Stoughton Ltd., 1943. Price 12/6.The distinguished contributor of the Foreword places Mr. Shipton in the fo...
ALASKAN GLACIERSThe expedition under the leadership of H. Bradford Washburn, Jr., to Mt. Crillon in the Fair weather Range made some interesting observations on the glaciers of the western slopes of the Fair weather and Southern St. Elias Ranges. ...
From November 26 to 29 Fumitaka Ichimura and I made the first ascent of Tawoche’s north face. There was an obvious, logical line that was unclimbed, at an ideal altitude for an attempt in November.On our first try, however, we failed because we to...
FALLING ROCK, POOR POSITIONColorado, Ouray, Dexter Creek SlabsOn February 26, the Ouray Mountain Rescue Team was called out to rescue Carroll Robinson (36), who had been struck on the head by a large rock. He and his partners, Dan Mays and Steve H...
Hungchi, attempt. The successful first ascent of Hungchi (7,036m) in April 2003 by Takashi Shiro’s Japanese Osaka Eiho Alpine Club expedition is recorded elsewhere in the Journal. This team climbed from Nepal. However, it appears that an attempt o...
Shisha Pangma, Central Summit. Our expedition was composed of Eturou Hino, Toyofumi Miyazaki, Masanori Hasimoto and me as leader. Before entering Tibet, we acclimatized in Nepal. This prevented difficulties with high altitude. We set up Base Camp ...
Grand Teton, Loki’s Tower, Tetons. The northwest corner of the Grand Teton, rising between the north ridge route of 1931 and the northwest chimney route of 1960, provided a new and difficult route with spectacular exposure for Michael Stern and Ma...
Drangang Ri, second ascent, by a new route; Ripimo Shar, possible new route; Chekigo, first authorized ascent. The goals of the Academic Alpine Club Zurich expedition to the Rolwaling were Drangnag Ri (6,757m) and Chekigo (6,257m). The team member...
Lhotse Shar Ascent and Tragedy. A large Swiss expedition comprising six climbers, doctor, cook, two photographers and five research workers from the Department of Physiology at Geneva University planned to spend three months in the Lhotse area. Th...
Bridge Mountain, Estrogen Enterprise. This route climbs the finlike buttress on Bridge Mountain’s southwest face, below the saddle on the right side of the mountain. The route reaches a ledge in two pitches. It then heads up and right toward an ob...
Mount Sbuksan, First Complete Ascent of East Face. On July 1 Bill Tilley and Don Claunch climbed the trail up the north fork of the Noaksack River about four miles, to the trail’s end, crossed the river on logs, and continued up three miles of bou...
Aconcagua, New Route on the Right Side of the South Face, 1986. Milan Romih and I made a trip to the Plaza de Francia in bad weather from February 9 to 11, 1986. We returned there on February 14. We were held back by bad weather until February 18 ...
Nanda Devi: Mr. Hugh Ruttledge, with the guide, Emile Rey, of Courmayeur and six Sherpa porters spent the early part of the summer of 1932 in an attempt to reach the summit of this, the highest mountain in the British Empire, but obtained only a f...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park. On 18 August Larry Starke (25) and four companions were climbing in the Park. According to Starke, a member of the party above him dislodged several rocks, one of which hit Starke in the back. The rock was about...
Kedarnath Dome. Our group was made up of Italian, French and Swiss climbers. We aimed to climb Kedarnath Dome on skis by the normal route, the northwest face. We set up Base Camp at Tapovan on September 12. After two days for acclimatization we le...
P 7998, Thompson Ridge, Chugach Mountains. On April 8, Gary Green of McCarthy Air Taxi flew Harold Hunt and me to the western end of the Bagley Icefield region. We had hoped to climb one of the higher peaks, but the weather changed our plans. We w...