Annapurna II Attempt. Rob Collister and I planned a two-man ascent of Annapurna II (26,041 feet) from Pisang in the Manang valley. We placed Base Camp at 17,000 feet directly below the north face of Annapurna II, hoping to find a new and fairly di...
Cerro Torre, Ferrari Route, and Cerro Standhart, Tomahawk and Exocet Routes, First Link- Up. Laurence Monnoyeur and I have been to Patagonia two times, once in 1996 and the second time last year. In 1996, we climbed El Mocho via the Goulotte Grass...
Ganesh IV Winter Attempt, 1981. Our United States-Nepalese party included Mingma Tensing, also sirdar, Yogendra Thapa and Kamal Bandari, also liaison officer, and me. A sirdar and liaison officer are required. Thapa and Bandari are members of the ...
Peak 29 or Dunapurna. The Klub Wysokogórski (High Mountain Club) of Zakopane organized an expedition of six to Peak 29 led by Ryz- sard Szafirski with Leszek Korniszewski as doctor. They discovered that local people living in the valleys west of t...
Baba Tangi. The Italian Oxus Expedition reached Khandut and explored the Wakhan range of the Hindu Kush. From Qala Panja, they reached the Little Pamir, discovering a peak of about 6000 meters (19,685 feet), called by the inhabitants of the region...
Mt. Hobbs; Middle Peak. In early April Ruedi Hornberger, Reto Reusch, and a friend they call Gonzo made the first ascent of a 10,500-foot peak between Celeno Peak and Ultima Thule Peak. They accessed the peak from Canyon Creek Glacier and named it...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. The Section met five times during the year. Programs included illustrated talks on climbs of Nevado Copa, Palcaraju, Huandoy, and Chacraraju in Peru by Leigh Ortenburger; ascents of Mount Hooker in the Wind Rivers an...
Chacraraju, South Face Attempt. On August 21 Alberto García and Francisco José Escolar of Spain and I as guide climbed the south face of Chacraraju. We climbed between the 1978 Richey-Brewer and the Jager routes to the top of the face. We broke tr...
Maashey Valley, Various Ascents. The Altai mountains straddle the border area of Russia, Kazakhstan, Mongolia and China. Much of the mountaineering interest in the range lies within Russia—broadly speaking, in southwest Siberia, or more precisely ...
Baruntse Attempt. Our expedition hoped to climb Baruntse by the normal southeast ridge. We established Base Camp, Camps I and II at 5400, 6100 (on the west col) and 6500 meters. On October 25, Xavier Pignède, Françoise Bouchut, Françoise Goudet, J...
STRANDED, EXPOSURE–HYPOTHERMIA, INADEQUATE CLOTHING/ EQUIPMENT, CLIMBING ALONE, WEATHER, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn September 4 at 0400, Sudheer Averineni (26) from Fort Collins began an attempt on Lon...
Mount Logan, East-West Traverse. We members of the Senshu Alpine Club traversed Mount Logan from east to west via the east, central and west peaks. The east-ridge party was composed of Tsuneo Ohnishi, Tomikazu Himemoto, Takeshi Itatani, Teruo Saka...
Fairweather from the North. On May 8, Dean James from Wales, Ian Berry and Andrew Allerton from England, and I from Alaska were flown to 3000 feet on the Grand Plateau Glacier by Kurt Gloyer of Gulf Air after six days in Yakutat waiting for flying...
P 19,950, Balcchish Range, Hispar Wall. Jamie Thin and I climbed P 19,550 (5959 meters) at the eastern end of the Balcchish Range on the southern side of the Hispar Glacier. We crossed an easy icefall to bivouac below the 2500-foot ice headwall of...
Kohe Keshnikhan. The members of our expedition were Ulrike Boltz, Bernd Brügge, Claus Dittmers, Heiko Irmisch, Frank John, Martin and Ulrich Roeder and I as leader. Base Camp was in the Keshnikhan valley at 13,775 feet. We climbed Kohe Tokhan (16,...
Manaslu, Ascent of Manaslu North I and Attempt on Manaslu North II. An expedition of 11 South Koreans was led by Park Tae-Gyu. On September 25, Lee Yong-Cheol and Ngawang Phurba Sherpa claimed to have completed the ascent of Manaslu (8163 meters, ...
CONCLUSIONFrom the foregoing it is clear that a systematic study of the glaciers of North America and the meteorological conditions in their vicinity has been begun. It is highly desirable that this work should continue and be extended to every im...
Everest, overcrowding on the North Ridge. Climbers on the Tibetan side had similar complaints to those on the Nepal side. A Swiss expedition leader said that when he and his group on their way to the top reached 8,600m (28,200 feet), near the bott...
Shisha Pangma Central from the North, Post-Monsoon. Several Spanish groups under the overall leadership of Toni Vives, but acting more or less independently, climbed Shisha Pangma Central by the normal route. On September 27, Magda Nos climbed to ...
Mountain Climbing Guide to the Grand Tetons, by Henry Coulter and Merrill F. McLane. 66 pages, with a map and 13 sketches. Hanover, N. H.: Dartmouth Mountaineering Club, 1947. $2.00.Since the publication of Fritiof Fryxell’s excellent work on the ...