From Everest to the South Pole, by George Lowe. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1961. viii + 216 pages, with 6 maps and plans; 32 pages of photographs. Price $4.50. First published in England under the title Because It Is There. London: Cassell and ...
"Pick an objective that you feel will contribute something to the development of American climbing, gather the strongest group of technical climbers available to do the job and the AAC will back the venture.” This was the invitation offered me by ...
FALLS ON ROCK (12), PROTECTION PULLED OUT (4), DISLOCATIONS (4), INADEQUATE PROTECTION (3), INADEQUATE BELAY, RAPPEL ERROR, FALLING OBJECT, OFF ROUTE, EXCEEDING ABILITY, STRAINED GROINNew York, Mohonk Preserve, ShawangunksEighteen reports were sub...
Le Terrain de Jeu de l’Europe, by Leslie Stephen, translated by Claire-Eliane Engel. 8 vo., wrappers, 268 pages, with two illustrations. Paris: Victor Attinger, 1935. Price, Fr. 6.50; bound, Fr. 9.50.Under the inclusive title of “Montagne” this is...
The Kenai Peninsula, AlaskaJ. Vincent HoemanIf the Aleutians are the jaunty beard of the craggy Alaska headland, then the Kenai Peninsula must be the prominent Adam’s apple, though it is shaped more like a reptilian head itself. Perhaps one day sl...
AVALANCHE, EUPHORIA FROM GOOD WEATHER AND PERFECT BACKCOUNTRY SKIING, NOT HEEDING INDICATIONS OF INSTABILITY, PARTY SEPARATEDColorado, San Juan MountainsFour of us from New England were skiing powder gullies and open trees below peak 12,311 in th...
On July 16, a male climber (22) fell as he descended from the top anchors on the sport route Plate Tectonics (5.9). After cleaning the top anchors, he descended on a double-rope rappel. Unfortunately, one end of his rope did not reach the ground. ...
Mount Columbia from the NorthCHRISTOPHER A. G. J ONESThis spring Toni Hiebeler was in Yosemite Valley with Fritz Wiessner, and knowing that an Alpinismus article on North American climbing would result, I was interested to hear what areas Hiebeler...
The Endless Summer ExpeditionA quest to lose oneself between Alaska and Antarctica.Alun HubbardIn 1999 Dave Hildes and I scraped our pennies together and bought a 47-foot steel ketch called Gambo, which, over the next four years—with the help of a...
Gasherbrum II and III. To mark the International Women’s Year the Polish Ladies Expedition was organized under the leadership of Mrs. Wanda Rutkiewicz. For safety reasons, a men’s team was added to the expedition with separate objectives. The foll...
Gangotri, Meru South, northeast face direct. At 4:30 p.m. on July 13 the sky finally opened for three Korean climbers standing at the top of the northeast face of Meru Peak (6,660m).Three instructors from the Extreme Riders Alpine Club, Kim Sejun ...
Hayes Group. Hayes, Deborah and Hess have received a good deal of attention in the past, but several unclimbed 12,000ers and many fine smaller peaks attracted Larry Muir, Tom Knott, my wife and myself to these mountains. Our approach was from Blac...
FALL ON ROCK AND FALLING OBJECT—LITTER California, TahquitzI went to Tahquitz on Sunday 12 June, ostensibly to help a friend practice aid climbing, but in reality to try to dissuade him from attempting the Regular Route of Half Dome as his first-e...
Central Mongolia, Ulaan Bataar, The Bombadorj Arête and The Lite Path. Our five-person team pioneered a 1,600’, 12-pitch route, which we believe is the hardest climb in remote Central Mongolia. My wife Heather Baer, Shawn Chartrand (our talented i...
Alpine Rock Climbs in CaliforniaGalen A. RowellPortions of this article appeared in Summit of May 1972THE east face of Keeler Needle was first climbed in 1960. For twelve years, attempts to repeat the route have failed. Not because of the intrinsi...
Antarctica: Both Heaven and Hell, Reinhold Messner. Translated by Jill Neate. The Mountaineers, Seattle. 1991. 375 pages. $35.00Some of the glory attached to Scott, Shackleton, Herzog and Shipton is owed to their unsung language teachers. In adven...
South Suru Group, Lingsarmo, southwest ridge. Kate Harris, Rebecca Haspel (both Canada), and I, as leader, formed an all-female, unsupported expedition that visited the Nun Kun Massif with the goal of climbing Lingsarmo (formerly known as Pinnacle...
Denali National Park and Preserve, Mountaineering Summary. For much of the past summer, as climbers approached the summit area of Mount McKinley, they were tragically reminded of the difficulties and dangers of the climb by the sight of two frozen...
Climbing fatalities in Nepal. Besides the seven deaths on Everest, two other climbers died last spring: American Jay Sieger and Ukrainian Vladislav Terzyul. They had gone to the top of Makalu together and were beginning their descent. Sieger appar...
A Survey of Andean Ascents Evelio Echevarría C.ADDENDA AND CORRIGENDA TO PART I, in AAJ 1962, and PART II, in AAJ 1963 ADDENDA COLOMBIAN ANDESCordillera Central59a. Nevado El Cisne, 5000 m. 16,404 ft. 1. A. Posada and other Colombians, 12.27.1957,...