A.A.C., Oregon Section. One of the highlights of the year for the Northwest was the first American Alpine Club annual meeting to be held in this area. It was hosted by the Cascade Section, but had several members from the Oregon Section assisting ...
Chacraraju Oeste. Swiss Xaver Bongard, Pierre-Alain Romagnoli, Frenchman Philippe Edouard Beaud and I set out at four A.M. on June 26. (They were to climb between the Yugoslav and the 1979 Yves Astier routes.—Editor. ) We traversed with headlamps ...
Bandaka Sakhi, Attempt on East Face. Dr. Geoff Cram, Lawrie Holliwell, Dave Yates, Dave Robbins, Tony Charlton, Dr. John Burslem and I as leader drove overland from England via Kabul to a village called Zebak in northeast Afghanistan at the beginn...
Maashey, Northwest Wall, Bydonov Route. The Rubtsov Mountain Club (D. Sergeev, leader, E. Vinnikov, A. Drakie) made an ascent of Maashey (4173m) via the P. Bydonov route on the northwest wall from July 31-August 1 in 24 hours of climbing. The asce...
Fitz Roy, Nearly Complete Ascent of the North Face, Tehuelche Route. More details are now available about the new Italian route on the north face of Fitz Roy, mentioned on page 203 of A.A.J., 1986. This lay between the 1984 Polish route and the Fr...
El Gran Trono Blanco, East Face (Direct), Sierra Juárez On December 27 to 29, Isabelle and Henri Agresti and Larry Gorbet climbed a new route on this 1600-foot face in Baja California. The route went almost all free, and the rock was excellent. Le...
Chaturangi Glacier. An expedition sponsored by the Gangotri Glacier Exploration Committee, of which I am President, climbed an unnamed virgin peak (20,682 feet) in the Chaturangi region on October 7. The summit climbers were Dr. Swapan Roy Choudhu...
Baruntse Attempt. Four West Germans under the leadership of Ulrich Weber were unable to climb Baruntse via the south ridge from the east col. They reached 6200 meters on October 17.Elizabeth Hawley
RAPPEL/LOWERING FAILURE—FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATColorado, Boulder CanyonOn June 22, two climbers were on a route behind Boulder Falls in Boulder Canyon. The leader, who had more than 20 years of rock climbing experience, topped out and placed an ...
Aconcagua, overview. The official season for climbing Aconcagua is from November 15 to March 15. The Parque Provincial Aconcagua had had 4,434 visitors as of March 7, 2002. Nearly 88 percent of the climbers were non-Argentines, and 410 Argentines ...
FALL ON ROCK, EXHAUSTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES,PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HARD HAT Nevada, Red RocksThe Bobs went to Red Rocks in April for a week of climbing and were on their fourth day. Mark Quiring (27) arrived midweek and was climbing on his fi...
Annapurna South Attempt. The 1984-5 winter attempt by Japanese led by Nobuaki Miyano on the south face of Annapurna South failed. Details are lacking.Elizabeth Hawley
Roraima, The Scorpion Wall. My dream of climbing a tepui began more than 10 years ago. An article in National Geographic captured my imagination, with its photos of huge virgin rock walls soaring above a remote, mysterious jungle. Tepuis, I learne...
Hallets Peak.* In mid-July Larry Bruce and I completed a 12-pitch girdle traverse of the 2nd and 3rd Buttresses. This recommended route starts on the obvious ledge a third of the way up the 2nd Buttress and moves straight out across the face just ...
Geographical DistrictsNumber of Accidents1951–69Total Persons InvolvedNumber of Accidents1970Total Persons InvolvedDeathsDeathsCanadaAlberta 251131000British Columbia471474737Yukon Territory559000Ontario111000Quebec111000United StatesAtlantic — No...
Mountaineering Club of Alaska. The MCA in 1972 continued its active program of sponsoring and practicing the use of mountaineering skills, both in our “backyard” Chugach Range and in the Talkeetnas, Wrangells, and other challenging Alaskan massifs...
DeLong Mountains, Brooks Range. The cold spring and wet summer in the Alaskan Arctic caused floods that swept away villages in the Koyukuk. While studying the western arctic caribou herd with its record 600,000 members, we crossed the DeLong Mount...
FALL ON SNOW, UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTBritish Columbia, Coast Mountains, The LionsDan J. and Kris J. were descending crusty snow after a climb about midafternoon on January 20, 1991, when Dan fell, and slid about 100 meters before he struck a...
Latok III. Latok III, which rises above the Baintha Lupka Glacier has, according to Pakistani officials we talked to, had twenty official attempts. However, our ascent was only the second, following the Japanese first ascent in 1977 when they clim...
Trango Tower (6,251m), almost-free ascent of Eternal Flame. This spring, Toni met Kurt Albert, who told him about his route, Eternal Flame, on the south face of Trango Tower and the possibility of free climbing it. The result was that three months...