Edmund Percival Hillary 1919–2008“Sir Edmund described himself as a person of modest ability; in reality he was a colossus.... He was our hero,” New Zealand’s Prime Minister Helen Clark said in her tribute to him at his state funeral in Auckland. ...
Slick-Johnson Nepal Snowman Expedition. In the spring of 1957 Tom Slick, of San Antonio, Texas, and Peter Byrne made a three-weeks reconnaissance up the Arun River. Between the Chhoyang and the Iswa Kholas at about 12,000 feet they discovered what...
In mid-October, Craig Pope and I made the quasi-annual pilgrimage from Bozeman to Pinedale with hopes held high for favorable mixed climbing conditions in the northern Wind River Range. The weather gods were on our side: We had just enou...
FALL ON ROCK, UNROPED, HYPOTHERMIAWyoming, TetonsAt 0400 on the morning of July 11, 1982, Dan McKay (26), a noted local skier, left the Lower Saddle in an attempt to ski down the Grand Teton on cross-country skis. He was not an experienced mountai...
Exploring in the KarakoramHENRY S. FRANCIS, JR.American Himalayan expeditions that are not set upon climbing a single major peak of the range are still a novelty in the Karakorams of Pakistan. In fact, an expedition from any country that is not la...
USA-USSR Pamirs ExpeditionJohn Roskelley, Peter Lev,J.E. Williamson, Jocelyn C. GliddenAs a result of an invitation from the Soviet Sports Federation to the American Alpine Club, a nineteen-member expedition, led by Pete Schoening, participated in...
Cholatse and Taweche Attempts. A five-man British expedition led by William Dark failed to climb the southeast ridge of Cholatse and the northeast ridge of Taweche in the pre-monsoon period. They established a high camp in the col between their tw...
FALLING SNOW BLOCKWashington, North CascadesOn July 24 at 2:00 p.m., National Outdoor Leadership School Instructor Jon Stamp and five students left their camp on the saddle between Dome and Dana Glaciers. They were traveling in two rope teams of t...
Towers of Brujo, Clandestino. From February 5-19, Toni Arbonés, Nicolas Meyer and I established Clandestino (ABO 7c+ A0, 400m), a free route in the Towers of Brujo in the Central Cordillera. There is no map of this part of Chile, and as far as I k...
Crevasse Patterns in Glaciers*Lawrence E. NielsenaLTHOUGH most mountaineers are familiar with crevasses from the practical standpoint, few know much about the physics of the formation of crevasses or the reasons why crevasses assume certain shapes...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION/BELAYCalifornia, Tahquitz Rock, The StepOn October 19, we believe that David Kellogg (32) and Kelly Tufo (41) had completed the climb and had finished up on Super Pooper or White Maiden’s Walkway. They were taki...
THE three-mile-long ridge of Kanchenjunga—third highest of the Himalayan giants—at no point drops below 8300 meters (27,231 feet). This splendid, wild mountain group, with its 13,000-foot-high bulwarks of rock and ice, not only thrilled mountai...
The West Face of Gasherbrum IVTo the top of the Shining Wallby Jae-hag Jung, Corean Alpine ClubWhen Sung-Dae Cho and three other Corean Alpine Club* members climbed Mount McKinley’s Cassin Ridge in 1988, it was not only the first Korean ascent of ...
Gasherbrum II, Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) and Broad Peak. We arrived at Base Camp at the foot of Gasherbrum II on May 18 after a 12-day approach. On May 22 we set up a camp on the plateau at 19,350 feet between Gasherbrums II and III but the weath...
Avant-Premières à l'Everest, by Gabriel Chevalley, René Dittert, and Raymond Lambert. Introduction by Dr. Ed. Wyss-Dunant. 304 pages, 36 illustrations, sketch maps, and appendices. Paris and Grenoble: Arthaud, 1953. Price, $3.50.This fine account ...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT,FROSTBITE, INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 2, 1988, the five person Chinese Hong Kong expedition lost a cache at 3450 meters on the West Buttress route on Mount McKinley due to deep snow accumulati...
Tirich Mir from the South. Our expedition had as members Artur Hajzer, Rafal Cholda, Jerzy Mamica, Janusz Mikolajczyk, Ludwik Musiol, Andrzej Zielinski and me as leader. On July 24 we established Base Camp at 14,450 feet on the South Barum Glacier...
Sawtooth Range. Jerry Fuller and I chose the unclimbed south face of the Lower Aiguille as a pre-season conditioning climb. We well deserved the unexpected difficulties encountered in three rather exhausting chimneys and the final traverse à cheva...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, UNROPED, PUBLIC ON GLACIERAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Athabasca GlacierJuly 25, 1990, was a warm, sunny day, as a family of four from Calgary, Alberta, stopped at the Columbia Icefields in Jasper National Park and took a walk on ...
Latok III, West Face, Attempt. In July, Jay Smith, Kitty Calhoun, Steve Quinlan and Ken Sauls attempted an alpine-style ascent of the unclimbed west face of Latok III (6949m) just off the Biafo Glacier in Pakistan. The team made an initial carry o...