Mount Rainier, Kautz Glacier Headwall. The Kautz Glacier Headwall on Mount Rainier was climbed July 8 by Pat Callis, Don Gordon, and Dan Davis. This headwall is the glacial finger and rock and snow face above the left part of the Kautz Glacier, bo...

Northernmost Auyuittuq National Park, Baffin Island. I left Broughton Island in the company of three Eskimos on July 8. Travel by sled on the ice of Davis Strait was slow because of poor ice conditions. After four days, I was left alone near the e...

Washington, Mt. Baker—On September 18, Helmut Krutz (26) climbed Mt. Baker with the Vancouver Outdoor Club and the University of British Columbia Climbing Club. As the party returned from the climb, the members were unroped and straggling. Krutz w...

Irish Greenland Expedition. A party of seven Irish mountaineers led by Joss Lynam visited the head of Tasermuit Fjord, near Cape Farewell. Though we hoped to spend five weeks climbing in the area, we lost two weeks getting from the airfield to Bas...

California, Hunter's Hill, Near Vallejo. On February 11, William Litterick, Jr. (25) and George Pastor were climbing the Yellow bank on Hunter’s Hill. Some parts of the rock are sound, other parts are extremely rotten. The weather had been quite u...

Birch Mountain, north ridge, attempt and tragedy. I had scoped out a line on this long ridge and questioned Sierra veteran Doug Robinson as to whether it had been ascended. He became secretive, and, probing further, I discovered that he also inten...

PULMONARY EDEMAAlaska, Mount McKinleyThe seven-member Keio University Japanese expedition flew to Kahiltna to climb Mount McKinley on May 21. By May 28, the party reached the 14,200-foot camp on the West Buttress. One member, Makiya Naito (22), wa...

Annapurna II. A Tyrolean-Bavarian expedition led by Johann Schar- nagel, which had hoped to climb the south face of Annapurna II to the west ridge, gave up on May 3 at the 23,300-foot col on the west ridge.Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club

Torre Egger and Cerro Standhart, Attempts. Hugo Biarge, Pere Vilarasau and I tried an alpine-style ascent of Badlands on Torre Egger on December 15-16. We were unsuccessful. January was awful: there wasn’t a single day of good weather; our ice cav...

Sharkfn Tower, Northwest Face. On July 1, Dan Raish, Woody Savage and I made the first recorded ascent on the north side of this small but prominent peak above Boston Basin. A drop over Sharkfin Col and a short traverse to the east on the Boston G...

Kohe Uparisina, Kohe Hevad and Other Peaks, Ishmurgh Valley. The Academic Alpine Club of Kraków Expedition was led by Janusz Maczka and composed of R. Bieniek, M. Kozik, L. Kozakiewicz, B. Strzelski, Ewa Panejko, A. Pawlik, J. Zajac, R. Urbanik, E...

Belgian Greenland Expedition. Tragedy struck a Belgian expedition consisting of nine people when they were attempting to climb Sneepyramiden (7336 feet), on the Akuliaruseq Peninsula, about 40 miles from Umanak. On July 16, the leader Jean Duchesn...

Ganesh IV (Pabil). A French expedition led by Michel Feuillarade originally had nine members, including a photographer, but four climbers left the expedition in late September. The leader and three Sherpas tried to climb from Base Camp to the sout...

Mount Powell, East Face. Mount Powell (13,360 feet) raises its turret-like summit from the crest of the Sierra near Bishop. Unlike most Sierra peaks, Mount Powell is composed of slabby monolithic granite, more like that of Yosemite than the usual ...

Pabil (Ganesh IV), 1978. The climbers who reached the summit of Pabil (See account in A.A.J., 1979, page 270.) on October 20, 1978 were Hiroshi Yoshio, Takashi Tomita, Yoshiaki Hashimoto, Ichiro Yasuda, Masao Hashimoto, Tsuneo Shimoji, Kimiaki Aog...

Koh-i-Kesnikhan. Sepp Kutschera returned with a group of Austrians to try to climb Koh-i-Kesnikhan (Kishmi-Khan) (c. 23,600 feet), on which he had failed in 1962. This time they avoided much of the long climb on the west ridge and reached the ridg...

Fang (Varaha Shikhar) Attempt. Although the Fang (7647 meters, 25,088 feet) is the third highest summit in the Annapurna group, it has had less attention from climbers, possibly because its name does not have “Annapurna” in it. It lies southwest o...

Cantata Peak, North Ridge. On August 5 Ryan Campbell and I headed to the south fork of Eagle River, intent on checking out the unclimbed 4,000-foot north ridge of Cantata Peak (6,450'). After hiking six miles we gained a hanging valley above Eagle...

Mount Deborah, Alaska Range, Attempt on Northwest Ridge. Floyd Frank, Joe Smyth and I hoped to climb the narrow, ¾-mile-long, corniced ridge which extends northwest from Mount Deborah (12,339 feet), gaining access by a north ridge which joins it a...

In April, Clint Helander and I flew onto the Big River Glacier in the remote Revelation Mountains. The previous year we had attempted an unclimbed 9,250' peak we called the Ice Pyramid (AAJ 2009) but were turned back by deteriorating weather after...