Polish Hindu Kush Expedition. This group, under the leadership of Boleslaw Chwascinski, was in the field from July 12 to October 19. They made the second ascent of Noshaq (24,574 feet) on August 27, just ten days after the first ascent made by the...

HAND-HOLD AND ROCK ANCHOR CAME OUT, FALL/SLIP, OFF ROUTEWashington, Mount ThompsonOn July 22, five climbers left base camp between Mount Thompson and Bumblebee Pass at 0500 for a Mountaineer’s led climb of the West Ridge. Steve Sulzbacher led the ...

Mit Glücklichen Augen, by Walter Pause. (Third edition) München: Bruckmann, 1957. 151 pages; ills, in color. Price 8.50 DM.These “Notes of a romantic mountaineer” have made many friends since their first edition appeared in 1948. Pause takes us on...

Alaska, Mount Juneau—Rex Conley (14) and Dennis Olsen (14) climbed to the summit of Mt. Juneau on July 26. In returning they decided to take a “short cut.” Presumably they descended the ridge back of Evergreen Bowl. Part way down Conley slipped an...

Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1995. Weather during the 1995 climbing season was stormy with high winds and few summit days. The marginal weather conditions prevented many expeditions from reaching the summit and was a l...

Gasherbrum I. Austrian Willi Bauer was back in the Karakoram in 1989 from which he barely escaped in the disastrous 1986 tragedy on K2. He led a commercial group of 20 Austrians and Germans, including some climbers very experienced in the high mou...

Churen Himal. Ryoten Hasegawa and Terayaki Kono reached this 24,184-foot summit via the west ridge on May 13. Nearly a month after leaving Kathmandu, the 10-man team led by Sinichi Nakajima set up Base Camp on April 7. Heavy snowfalls delayed the ...

Downie Peak, Selkirks. Having tramped around it for a great number of years, unclimbed Downie Peak (9500 feet) had become more and more attractive to W. V. Graham Matthews, David (Georgia) Michael and myself. From Downie Creek Auto Court on the Bi...

California, Yosemite (1)—On April 2, 1955 a two-man team of George Sessions (22) and Richard Calderward attempted Rixon’s Pinnacle by an extremely difficult 6th class route that had been climbed once previously by another team. They were fully and...

Shisha Pangma Correction. On page 296 of AAJ1991, it should have stated that Jean-Pierre Bernard’s party got to the central summit of Shisha Pangma, not the main one. Regarding the many groups that fail to climb the main summit of Shisha Pangma (8...

Roosevelt-Churchill Group, Northern Rockies. During late July and early August, Rich Gnagy, Barbara Lilley, Alex McDermott, Mike McNicholas, Marcia Wallerstein and I visited the group of unclimbed peaks west of Fort Nelson, British Columbia, and j...

Annapurna Central Summit, ascent. A Russian, Boris Korshunov, whose age has been reported as between 68 and 70. set out from the top camp on the Standard (French) Route up the north face of Annapurna on the 28th May. However, he slanted up left to...

Eastern Kumaun, Adi Kailash Range, Ishan Parbat, first ascent. In September an Indo-British-German party visited the Adi Kailash Range, which lie between the Darma and Kuthi Yankti valleys to the east of the Panchchuli massif.Access to foreigners ...

Western Brooks Range. On July 27 Gene Warren, my wife Sharon, and I made the first ascent of Mount Oyukak (7310 feet), a broad dome overlooking the Noatak River, twenty miles northwest of Igikpak. The mountain’s name refers to the curious icecap (...

Denali, Wickersham Wall, Continuous Ski Descent. Adrian Nature made a continuous and complete ski descent of the Wickersham Wall, adding 7,000 vertical feet of new terrain on his descent. Ice cliffs prevented him from skiing the Harvard route as h...

Mount Alice, East Face, Rocky Mountain National Park, 1978. I made the first ascent solo of a new line on the right side of the east face of Mount Alice in August, 1978 (NCCS V, F9, A2). The route takes the crack line that diagonals up and slightl...

Denali National Park, Mountaineering Statistics. This past climbing season is the second time since 1991 that the mountain did not claim any lives. Unrelenting high winds contributed to a summit rate of less than 20 percent during the month of May...

Barron Saddle, Mt. Brewster region summary. This is a large and complex alpine region broadly covering the Southern Alps south of the Aoraki Mt. Cook region to the Haast Highway, north of Mt. Aspiring.This region is a treasure trove of new route p...

Steeple Peak, West Face, 1977. In June, 1977 my brother and I made what we believe was a new route on the west face of Steeple Peak. We climbed six pitches in a direct line up the face. All the cracks are clean and lead directly to the summit with...

Mt. Ayesha, 10,036 ft. First ascent, July 15. E. Cromwell, J. M. Thorington, P. Kaufmann. From Bow Lake by way of How glacier and south shoulder of Mt. Rhondda, which is crossed and a couloir descended to the snowfield below east face of objective...