Pingora, North Face. Accompanied by Aaron Schneider, on August 14 Ed Speth and I returned to the north face of Pingora (11,884 feet), a climb we had been forced off in 1963 by bad weather. From Lonesome Lake we hiked up the talus and tumbling cree...
FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HATNew Hampshire, Cannon CliffOn October 14, 1994, while ascending the talus slope below Cannon Cliff, a large section of rock (est. 100 feet across) fell off the cliff high above us. The rock broke up as it fell and swept do...
Corrections. The ascent of M5 (20,900 feet) in central Lahul as reported in the A.A.J., 1965, 14:2, p. 471 was in fact a second ascent, the first having been made a month earlier on July 24, 1964 by climbers from the Himalayan Mountaineering Insti...
Mount Sanford Tragedy. A 4-man Japanese expedition from Hokkaido University climbed Sanford by the normal route. While descending from the summit on June 24 Tokio Momono and Shigeru Senda were caught by a blizzard. Momono died during the second ni...
Jordan Peak Area. In late spring 1981, Eddie Joe and I discovered and climbed the first routes on a triple rock formation on the south side of Jordan Peak, just north of Camp Nelson. In the following month, Eddie, Randy Jewitt, Patrick Paul, Gary ...
King Tut’s Tomb. In May, Mike Covington and I climbed a new five- pitch route one-half mile west of Sentinel Rock on the south side of Yosemite Valley. The route ascends a 400-foot buttress which is capped by a spectacular roof. It is within 100 y...
A further note on Rondoy, Cordillera Huayhuash. The footnote on page 259 of the AAJ 1962, 13:1 has been confirmed. Ronday has two independent peaks joined by a ridge about a quarter of a mile long. The Italians climbed the north peak, which is abo...
Tumwater Canyon, Wall Street Route on Noontime Rock. This direct route is probably the steepest-angle, and most strenuous climb in Tumwater Canyon. Dave Beckstead and I explored it in mid-winter, then completed the climb in early spring. The route...
Eiger and Cathedral Attempts, Kishtwar. Our party was composed of Emmett Goulding, Anthony Latham, Joss Lynam, Clare Sheridan and me as leader. We hoped to climb peaks on the south side of the Kiar Nallah. Base Camp was set up at the foot of the S...
Cerro Bismarck, Ancient Ascents. This rock peak is located immediately south of Cerro Plomo, on whose top an Inca mummy was uncovered in 1954. Alejo Contreras found very close to the summit (4715 meters, 15,468 feet) a very small rock construction...
Cerro de la Plata. Takashi Tanabe, Yukihiro Yanagasawa and Osamu Tominaga climbed the south face of the Cerro de la Plata (5850 meters or 19,193 feet) during the first week of January.
Makalu, Southeast Ridge to East Face. Our sixteen-member expedition, which included scientists and three reporters, made a new route variation on Makalu. The leader was Ham Tak-Young. Because of customs delays in Calcutta, we did not set out from ...
Yerupajá, Northeast Face and East Spur, Cordillera Huayhuash. The members of the Tyrolean Andean Expedition of the Austrian Alpine Club (Ö.A.V.), Innsbruck branch, were Helmuth Wagner, Egon Wurm, Sepp Majerl, Reinhold Messner, Peter Habeler, Dr. R...
Ausangate and Other Peaks, Cordillera Vilcanota. Five Poles climbed in the Cordillera Vilcanota in June. We were Maciej Karon, Andrzej Makaran, Andrzej Pieta, Wieslaw Szczepanek and me as leader. Yanajaja II (5400 meters, 17,717 feet), Santa Catal...
Nanga Parbat, Northwest Ridge Attempt and Tragedy. Our expedition, sponsored by the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, was international. The members were Harald Nevé, leader, and Richard Franzl, Austrians, Albrecht Baumgartner, Dr. Peter Forre...
Wyoming, Grand Teton. On 6 July at 2130 hours, Gregory Sharp (23) and George Macheel reached the Owen rappel point after climbing the Grand Teton. According to Sharp, he had made the rappel after a previous ascent of the Grand and thought a 150 fo...
Annapurna II Attempt. Our expedition to the west ridge of Annapurna II was composed of Lucy Smith and me, co-leaders, Sue Giller, George Vansickle, Julie Brugger, John Trainor, Devin McGowan, Polly Fabian and Craig Seasholes. We met with many frus...
P 20,308, Pangong Range, Ladakh. This virgin peak was climbed on September 20 by six members of the Indo-Tibetan Border Police and two other policemen. The summiters were R.C. Anand, leader, Balbir Singh, Tashi Sherpa, Rabgyas, Dubi Ram, Tsering N...
Chicago Mountaineering Club. The club held its 15th Western Outing in Tonquin Valley, Jasper National Park, Alberta, in July. Camp was located at Surprise Point on Amethyst Lake with 30 members in attendance. Given superb weather, several parties ...
FALLING ROCK, WEATHERWyoming, Wind River Range, Mount WarrenOn July 24, 1989, National Outdoor Leadership School leader Phil Peabody set out at 0620 with three students, David Black (24), Justin Burchett (16), and Rob Hirschfield (20), to attempt ...