Mercedario, South Face. An Italian expedition originally had the west face of Mercedario as its objective. They were Alessandro Angelini, Giuseppe Angelotti, Carlo Barbolini, Gianluca Benedetti, Fabrizio Convalle, Bruno Nicolini, Giancarlo Polacci...
South Walsh, first ascent; Mt. Walsh, Southeast Ridge; other ascents. On May 28 Graham Rowbotham and I reached the pointed summit of South Walsh (4,223m). This was the highest unclimbed peak in the St. Elias range and, as claimed in AAJ 2006 (p. 1...
Minor peaks: Rockchuck Peak, two ascents ; Cloudveil Dome, Disappointment Peak, Storm Point Symmetry Spire, Prospectors Mountain, Veiled Peak, and Eagles Rest each one ascent. The three peaks last mentioned, climbed by Phil Smith and various compa...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Symmetry Spire. On 8 August Sheldon Smith (18) and James Erickson (18) were climbing on Symmetry Spire. According to Smith, he slipped on the snow patch in Symmetry Couloir about 20 feet above the bottom. He was...
Ski traverse from Knud Rasmussens Land, through the Watkins Mountains and Gronau Nunatakker, to Paul Stern Land; various first ascents, new routes, and repeats. During April and May Dominik Rind and I made six first ascents in the Gronau Nunatakke...
Satopanth. Three Japanese made Base Camp at Nandanban on September 13, Advance Base at 16,750 feet, Camps I and II at 19,300 and 21,325 feet, and climbed to the summit via the north ridge on September 30. They were Haruo Takahashi, Hisao Hara and ...
Tukche. Our expedition was composed of Kim Hak-Young, Lim Hea-Hoon, Yoon Hong-Kun, Jung Chang-Hyuk, Lee Dong-Hwan, Heo Young-Ho and me as leader. On March 2 we climbed to Dhampus Pass (5100 meters) and then descended to Hidden Valley where we esta...
Lawinen, by Walter Flaig. 8 vo. ; 173 pages, maps and illustra- trations. F. U. Brockhaus, Leipzig, 1935.Snow Structure and Ski Fields, by G. Seligman. 8 vo. ; x + 555 pages, diagrams and illustrations, bibliography and index. Macmillan and Compan...
Yanawaca, attempt. Last May two Mexican friends, Carlos Bazua Morales and Emiliano Villanueva Rabotnikof, and I traveled to the Cordillera Blanca with the idea of opening a new route on the wall known as Yanawaka (also called Peña Negra, ca 4,900m...
Serenity Spire and Other Climbs, Kichatna Mountains. Jeff Hollenbaugh* and I were in the Kichatna Mountains from June 23 to July 15. We were landed on the Tatina Glacier, where we set up Base Camp. The day we arrived we climbed what we believe is ...
Mount Everest, Activity in the Pre-Monsoon Season. The pre-monsoon season saw more people reach the top of Everest than ever before in a single season, and the total number of ascents ever made has now passed the 1,000 mark. Altogether 118 people ...
Thalay Sagar. Our expedition made the fifth ascent of Thalay Sagar, the second by the first-ascent route on the northwest couloir and ridge made in 1979 by the Anglo-American party led by John Thackray. The other three ascents have been by the nor...
A.A.C., Blue Ridge Section. The Section’s hard work in acting as host for the Club’s 1980 Annual Meeting and Dinner resulted in the blessings of real financial solvency and the creation of a nucleus of dedicated leaders willing to explore possible...
Makalu Attempt. Belgian climbers led by Jos Dewint reached 7700 meters on the northwest side of Makalu on April 25 before having to give up the attempt.Elizabeth Hawley
Blamann, Ultima Thule, first free ascent. After my previous ascent of Ultima Thule, I had an urge to free it. When Oscar Alexandersson and I stood at the base of the wall in showery weather and a temperature of 4°C, we realized our attempt might e...
Everest Attempt by a Nepalese Woman. A group of ten Nepalese, four Frenchmen and a Belgian was led by Mrs. Pasang Lhamu Sherpa, the first Nepalese woman to lead a mountaineering venture. (Many of her leadership duties were performed by her husband...
LOSS OF CONTROL-VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONSWashington, Mount AdamsOn June 24, a climber (38), who had summited Mount Adams alone, was descending wearing crampons when the points on the right crampon “caught” his left leg, causing hi...
Rwenzori Mountains, Mt. Stanley (Margherita Peak, 5,109m), west face, new route. In July, Steve Roach—44-year-old rocket scientist for NASA, orator of Robert Service ballads, experienced mountaineer, and Vedauwoo-trained offwidth aficionado—seven ...
Pilote Des Glaciers, by Hermann Geiger, with a preface by Felix Germain. 152 pages, with 48 illustrations, 6 pen drawings and 6 technical drawings by the author. Paris: B. Arthaud, 1955.This is a fascinating and most unusual book by the famous Swi...
Torre Norte del Paine, 1992. On November 8, 1992, Spaniards Mariano de Blas and Marcelino Carmona climbed the normal Monzino route on the south ridge of the Torre Norte del Paine.Josep Paytubi, Servei General d’Informació de Muntanya