Makalu, Solo Winter Attempt. Frenchman Ivan Ghirardini attempted first the very difficult west buttress of Makalu in winter. After a first sortie, on January 7 he bivouacked at 19,350 feet and on January 8 at 22,000 feet. On January 9 he reached 2...
Mt. Foraker, Infinite Spur variation. The sun is setting, and the cold is creeping down the Kahiltna. It is May 16, and Eamonn Walsh and I have just been spit out of the last plane of the day at Kahiltna base camp. We stare up at the Moonflower Bu...
Kakhari and other peaks Northern Kohistan. From the roadhead at Gabral, A. Cormack, leader, R. Metcalfe, J. Peck, Dr. I. Piper and I walked up the Gabral valley for 25 miles and set up Base Camp at 11,000 feet. From there another camp was put in a...
Out of Mosquito Flats, and past Ruby Lake, on September 26 Miguel Carmona and I established the East Corner (IV 5.9) on the steep Ruby Wall (east wall) of Ruby Peak. The route climbs eight pitches to a summit where the East Arête and Left Ea...
Bethartoli South, Mrigthuni, and Attempts on Bethartoli Himal. Bethar- toli Himal was attempted by an expedition led by Professor Ramesh G. Desai and sponsored by the Climbers Club, Bombay. Others were Harish B. Kapadia, Jagdish C. Nanavati, Dr. P...
Winter traverse of the range; Mt. Marcus Baker, South Ridge-Knik variation. During the summer of 2003 we started talking about a winter traverse of the Chugach Range, from Prince William Sound to the road system. If we encountered favorable condit...
Skilbrum, Ascent and Tragedy. A 17-member Japanese expedition made the second ascent of Skilbrum (7360m) via either the original Southwest Face route or the South Face (it is unclear which) on August 17. Eight climbers made it back to base camp on...
Coast Ranges. In the summer of 1967, two projects of the Geological Survey of Canada did initial mapping of the Coast Mountains from Monarch Icecap south, through the Waddington group, to the Homathko Snowfield. Although basically a helicopter ope...
Two Expeditions to the North Pole. In 1978 Japanese Naomi Uemura reached the North Pole alone with a dog team. He was resupplied by air. He was airlifted back to his base. That same year other Japanese led by Kaneshige Ikeda also sledged to the No...
Elephants’ Perch, West Face. In July my brother Greg and I climbed the first lead of Beckey’s original route. Then, rather than traverse left to continue that route, we headed straight up, basically free, until after seven pitches we diagonaled le...
Mt. Boullard, Foster-Ricci. Mt. Boullard, a relatively benign-looking peak bordering both the Juneau Ice Field and the terminus of the Mendenhall Glacier to the east, rises abruptly from just above sea level to its 4,200' summit. Unusually good ic...
Colorado College Mountain Club. The Colorado College Mountain Club at Colorado Springs has a membership of about 60 collegiate climbers. Its principal out-of-state trip in 1961 was to Mexico, where ascents of Orizaba and Popocateptl were made. In ...
Disteghil Sar East and Yazghil Dome South. A Polish expedition climbed in the Hispar Muztagh. They were Ryszard Kowalewski, leader, Andrzej Bielun, Dr. Jacek Gronczewski, Tadeusz Piotrowski and Jerzy Tillak. Their baggage was lost for two weeks by...
Korona, North Face, New Route. The north face of Korona (“the Crown”) Peak (4855m) is a 900-meter wall with no routes easier than 5 on the Russian scale. The wall stretches east to west for 1.5 kilometers and has seven routes. On January 22, Alexa...
Ishinca, Ranrapalca, Urns. Our group, Ernst Senn, Louis Gillarduzzi, and Frau Ilse Lorünser, Austrians, and Peter Schoepflin, Ernst Ineichen, Frédéric Schust, Fräulein Alice Landtwing, Hans Ruckli, Ruedi Keck and I, Swiss, made an ascent of Ishinc...
Pucacocha and Other Peaks, Cordillera de la Viuda. These rock-and-ice peaks lie between the Jatúnchacua range in the north, the Cochas system in the east and south and the desert valleys of the Lima hinterland to the west. In January 1987, I made ...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLD, PROTECTION PULLED OUTCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn September 19, 1985 Daniel Pisciotta (22) was reportedly leading the second pitch of the Absolutely Free, Left Side route (rated 5.9). A hold came loose in his h...
Saraghrar Northwest II. Our expedition was composed of Enrique Lucas, Ricardo Herrero, Nil Bohigas, Néstor Bohigas, Antonio García, Joan Martí and me as leader. We climbed the southwest buttress of Saraghrar Northwest II without oxygen, without hi...
California: (2) Yosemite Valley. On 11 November 1949 Darrel J. Warren, a soldier from Castle Field Air Base at Merced, California, was instantly killed by a fall from the cliff just east of the base of Yosemite Falls. Evidently a rock on which he ...
Mount McKinley, Direct West Buttress routes. In the photograph of the West Buttress, routes shown were first climbed by the following: 1) Duane Muetzel, Ken Graff, Neal Beidelman and Granger Banks in early May, 1980; 2) Bruce Hickok and Sabine Gli...