Major peaks: Grand Teton, fourteen ascents; Middle Teton, South Teton, and Teewinot each three; Nez Percé and Mt. Woodring each two; Mt. Owen, Mt. St. John, and Mt. Moran each one. Thus Buck Mountain and Mt. Wister were the only major peaks not cl...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park. On 10 August Greenblatt (19) and Robert Green (19) were practicing glissading in the couloir above Amphitheater Lake. According to Green, Greenblatt lost control. He slid a short distance into the rocks and spra...
Milne Land, correction, Hermelintop. The 2007 AAJ, pp. 198, reported a circumnavigation of Milne Land by a three-member British team. This team began its kayak journey from Hekla Havn, which was the 1891-2 over-wintering base used by a Dane, Carl ...
Bhagirathi II and Satopanth. Three Japanese, Akira Suzuki, Motomu Omiya and Hiroto Hisamatsu set up Base Camp at Nandanban at 14,700 feet on May 6, Advance Base at 16,075 feet and Camp I at 17,225 feet. After an attempt at a new route on Bhagirath...
Dhaulagiri II Attempt. A four-man Japanese expedition led by Shuichi Torii had hoped to climb the east ridge of Dhaulagiri II. They established three high camps. Frequent snowfall, strong winds and an exhausted food supply defeated them and they g...
Das Letzte im Fels, by Domenico Rudatis. Translated from the Italian by Emmeli Capuis and Max Rohrer. 8vo. ; 250 pages, including bibliography and index, with numerous route diagrams by the author. Munich: Gesellschaft Alpiner Bücherfreunde, 1936....
La Esfinge, Killa Quillay and variation. From July 24-31, Spanish climbers Ángel Olmos, Antonio L. Liria, and José M. Cancho climbed the east face via a new 17-pitch route, Killa Quillay (700m, VI 6b+ A2), located between Cruz del Sur (Bole-Karo, ...
Plumb Spire, North Triple Peak, Trinity Spire and Whiteout Spire, Kichatna Spires. Calvin Hebert and I flew to the Tatina Glacier on June 7 and stayed through July 2. The typical unsettled weather forced us to abandon our plans for a new Grade VI ...
Activity on the Nepalese 8000-ers in the Post-Monsoon. This was a poor season on Nepal’s 8000ers, even though all except one expedition attempted well-trodden routes. Seven expeditions went to Manaslu, four to Makalu, one each to Annapurna I and K...
Shivling Attempt and Satopanth North Ridge. Our expedition operated in two groups, Andreas Walder, Willi Wehinger, Walter Bell and I in the first and Dieter Blümel, Egon Haselwanter, Kurt Wolf, Gottfried Mayr and Traudl Stauder in the second. We a...
A.A.C., Alaska Section. This past year marked a resurgence of activity in the Section. Efforts to renew interest in the A.A.C. was rewarded by an increase in membership, the creation of a newsletter, and greater participation in Section committees...
Makalu, West Buttress Attempt. Our expedition, composed of Atxo Apellaniz, Juan Oiarzabal, Kike de Pablo and me as leader, began our approach march from Hille, which was made difficult because of snowstorms on the Barun La. We set up Base Camp and...
Blamann (Blamannen, 861m), north face. This face received considerable attention in 2008, due in part to the newly published guidebook Kvaloya: Selected Climbs, and also to the 2007 free ascent of the superb 10-pitch Arc- tandria at F8b by Austria...
Everest. Our expedition consisted of Robert Link and me as co-leaders, Steve Gall, Dave Carter, Darrin Goff, Hall and Amy Wendel, Dr. Kurt Pappenfus, five high-altitude Sherpas and three cooks. We established Base Camp on March 20. Once Sherpas ha...
FALLING ROCKS-DISLODGED BY PULLING ON ROPEUtah, Little Cottonwood Canyon, Church VaultsOn September 3, Gary Wholfarth (43) and two friends had been climbing in the Church Vaults area of Little Cottonwood Canyon. In the process of pulling their rop...
Anti Atlas, Tafraoute, new routes. It was a brilliant week of doing new routes on the quartzite around Tafraoute. Our last route was 340m, around 5.7 in difficulty with spectacular climbing. The complete team was Joe Brown, Claude Davies, Mike Mor...
The Technique of Mountaineering, by J. E. B. Wright. 144 pages, with 21 photographs, 132 drawings, and a glossary of mountaineering terms. London; Nicholas Kaye, 1955. Price, 10s 6d.A climbing manual such as this, written by a professional guide, ...
Torres del Paine, Paineta, Cerro Almirante Nieto, 1992. Our expedition was composed of Carlo Barbolini, Mario Vighetti, Angelo Pozzi, Alberto Rampini and me. On November 8, 9, 12, 13, 15 and 16, 1992, we opened a new route (UIAA VII+, A3) on the w...
Berlin Hindu Kush Expedition. On July 17 a heavily loaded Kombi-bus left West Berlin on a four-week trip through southern Europe and Asia for Afghanistan. Wolfgang von Hansemann, Dietrich Hasse, Johannes Winkler and I were off after a year and a h...
FALL ON SNOW, WEATHER, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Washington, Snoqualmie, Silver PeakOn June 17, this accident occurred while a party of 11 “Alpine Scramblers” were descending Silver Peak. Lori Levin (30) reported the following:The ...