Mikis Fjord, ascent of Red Peak. Hoping to find anchorage in Kangerdlussuaq Fjord, which would give access to the Lemon Mountains etc, a small British team sailed in mid-May from Portsmouth, UK, via Iceland to the East Coast of Greenland. Bad weat...
Morocco, Overview. During 1998, whilst working in Morocco, I took the opportunity to explore the enigmatic pleasures of the Atlas Mountains. Morocco is accessible and user- friendly for the tourist, but remains a niche destination as far as mounta...
Cho Oyu Solo Winter Ascent, 1988. Until early this year, only six men had climbed an 8000er alone, none in wintertime. Spaniard Fernando Garrido took five days for his lonely ascent, beginning on February 2, 1988 from a camp at 5850 meters near th...
Eekayruk, Falsoola, Brooks Range. Starting from the pipeline road on August 17, our group crossed the Dietrich River and followed Kuyuktuvuk and Trembley Creeks, then crossed into the Hammond River valley. After hiking over Kinnorutin Pass we clim...
Nanga Parbat Correction. On page 287 of A.A.J., 1983, the line showing the route was drawn a little too far to the right in the upper part of the photograph. The route ascended the couloir and passed the rock outcrop on the left.
Dolomitenland, by L. Franzl. 16 pages of trilingual text, with 160 full-page illustrations. Bolzano: L. Franzl, 1948. Price, $3.50.This book does not deal with climbing, but contains some of the most magnificent photos of landscape, peasant life, ...
Cerro Barros Arana, 1990. In December, 1990, Doug Tompkins and my wife Barbara flew two Cessna T206s to Patagonia. Doug and I reconnoitered unclimbed peaks from the air. We originally thought of trying Cerro Castillo, but when we flew close to the...
Mountaineering in Colombia. I visited the central Andes of Colombia, ascending, some peaks previously climbed a number of times. An exploration of Nevado Quindío (5400 meters in official maps) revealed that there are indeed five rock peaks, locall...
Utah—South Face, Squaw Peak: On April 11, 1952 Mr. Hansen (27) parked his car in Rock Canyon and climbed to the top of Squaw Peak. He was apparently much distraught as searchers following his trail later found his shoes, wallet, and other items of...
Cashan Oeste. Mark Richey and I made a new route and, we believe, the second ascent of Cashan Oeste (5701 meters, 18,705 feet). On July 25, we approached the mountain from the Quebrada Rajucolta via the steep, complicated slopes that define the lo...
Sukkertoppen, Southwest Greenland. Another Italian expedition under the leadership of Guido Monzino made two first ascents near the Evighedsfjord. A Danish expedition operated in the same region. This was under the leadership of Carsten Berg-Søren...
Iowa Mountaineers. The Club completed its eighteenth year of operation with an unusually large number of activities. Approximately 720 different members participated in the indoor and outdoor events sponsored by the Club. Fifteen major week-end ou...
British Columbia, Northern Selkirks. On August 12th Phil Koch and Christopher Winship, both of the Dartmouth Mountaineering Club, were attempting the west face of Mount Adamant. This was Winship’s second attempt on the route. A week earlier he and...
SLIP ON ICE, INADEQUATE BELAY, INATTENTION, FATIGUE British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Tahumming GlacierFor Bob P. and Doug W., August 28, 1992, was day eight of a 21-day traverse of the Tahumming Horseshoe near the head of Toba Inlet. Their objec...
Mt. Noijin Kangsa, Ascent. The Japan Teacher’s Party 2000 Noijin Kangsa expedition consisted of one person, Tadakiyo Sakahara. The goal was to climb Mt. Noijin Kangsa (7206m, 29.9° N, 90.1° E) by the east ridge. The dates of the expedition were Ju...
Kedarnath Dome, East Face Attempt. We originally planned to climb a buttress in the middle of the unclimbed east face of Kedarnath Dome. After our arrival, we discovered so much rockfall on the lower section that we changed our objective to the li...
Huayna Potosí, West Face. Jim States, John Roskelley and I climbed the west face of Huayna Potosí in two days with the second bivouac on the summit. The mountain has two west faces. The left one was climbed by Janney and party in 1970. The right o...
Bona and Churchill. The Alpine Club of Tokyo University of Education Expedition was composed of Tamao Tokuhisa, leader, Hideki Yamamoto, Koji Saito, Makoto Kobayashi, Jiro Kenmochi and Takao Inukai. I was to have been of the party, but family illn...
Tripura Hiunchuli II. The members of our expedition were Mariano Diaz, Vincent Devlamynck, Francis Parrot, Olivier Pohl, Michel Lentz, Juany Pérez, Didier Demesy and I as leader. We approached via Jumla in western Nepal. We set out with 35 porters...
Ellesmere Island. The 1976 Ellesmere-Makinson Expedition arrived in Grise Fiord via Kenn Borek Air from Resolute on July 27; our goal was exploratory mountaineering in the high arctic. The party consisted of Curt Saville, George Wallerstein, Peter...