WE FINALLY departed Pokhara on August 25. Our planned eight-day trek went well until we reached Machapuchare Camp at 11,500 feet on September 1. From here the going was a bit sticky, requiring two crossings of the icy, raging Modi Khola, plus a...
The Moose’s ToothWalter Welsch, Deutscher Alpenverein Translated by H. Adams CarterOn May 5 we four members of the Section Bayerland left Munich on our long trip. Arnold Hasenkopf, Klaus Bierl, Alfons Reichegger and I were headed for the mountains...
The Big Wall, The AA Crack. After all the usual hassles of overweight and oversized baggage, and of making connections on the long trip from Yosemite, Donny Alexander and I arrived in the Cordillera Quimsa Cruz in June, just as the wet season was ...
FALLING ROCK, HAUL BAGS, AND CLIMBERS California, Yosemite ValleyOn June 16, 1988, a climber, Craig Herzog, called dispatch from Curry Security Office and reported that two haul bags followed by an object that “looked kind of like a body” came dow...
Makalu Traverse Attempt and Kangchungtse Attempt via West Face. Our expedition was composed of Mike Woolridge, leader, Rob Collister, Andy Fanshawe, Lindsay Griffin, Dr. Gill Irvine, Hamish Irvine and me, all British, and American Steve Sustad. We...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTIONMaine, Acadia National Park, Champlain MountainThe following is derived from interviews with the climbers at the accident scene and an interview with the injured climber after the in...
The South Face of Snowpatch SpireJohn Hudson and Richard C. Williams, Vulgarian Mountain ClubSometimes I think I'm much too high to fall; Other times I’m so low down I’ll never get up at all—Bob DylanDIRECT or not direct, that was the question; a ...
Images d’Escalades, by André Roch. 14 pages of text, with 88 photographs. Lausanne: Editions Jean Marguerat, 1946.André Roch has presented to mountaineering readers one of the finest collections of Alpine photographs ever made. Beautifully repro...
Cerro Dos Cuernos, first ascent. The Cordon Mariano Moreno is a range located in the middle of the Southern Patagonia Icecap, 25km southwest of Cerro Torre. During October and November, Karen McNeill, Amy Bullard, and I skied in to this range and ...
The Alpine Club of Canada. The Club conducted two very successful camps during the period under review—an eight-day ski camp during the Easter vacation and the usual summer camp—the 50th such camp to be held by the Club in the Canadian mountains. ...
Karavshin Region, Various Ascents. We (Robert Lange, Bettina Boehmer, Mathias Engelien from Germany and Will Stites from the U.S.) hiked in from Bapyx to Base Camp in the Karavshin Ak-Su Valley on August 19. On August 23, I hooked up with the Cana...
Menlungtse Attempt. Our team was composed of Norwegians Odd Eliassen, Bjørn Myrer-Lund, Torgeir Fosse and Helge Ringdal and Britons Jim Fotheringham and me. Getting to Base Camp was an adventure. We had originally planned on five days to reach the...
Karambony, north face, Always the Sun, second ascent; Tsaranoro Be, Gondwanaland, rebolting; various other ascents. The Tsaranoro massif offers world-class free big-wall routes from 5.9 to 5.13, in a country that is one of the planet’s poorest, ye...
Silver Star Mountain, Stellar Eclipse. On September 3 Off White of Olympia and I returned to the West Pillar of the West Peak of Silver Star Mountain to repeat Stellar Eclipse, a Grade IV alpine rock route we had established hammerless four years ...
Little Tahoma, Northeast Ridge and Face. A party composed of Bob McCall, Dave Mahre, and Lex Maxwell climbed this previously untried route on August 23. From a high camp at Summerland, they ascended Meany Crest and traversed the Fryingpan Glacier ...
Treatment and Prevention of High Altitude Pulmonary EdemaHerbert N. Hultgren*High altitude pulmonary edema is a serious illness which may occur in persons who rapidly go to altitudes over 9000 feet without adequate prior acclimatization. It may al...
NuptseJoseph Walmsley, Alpine ClubNobody had ever tried to climb 25,850-foot Nuptse before Photographic evidence and past observation by our patron, Sir John Hunt, had shown a possible route to the summit by the south ridge. This way involved a tw...
Amin BrakkA5 with a viewby Silvia Vidal, Spaintranslated by Christian SantelicesPakistan, once again—its people, its streets, its odors and, why not, its bartering and characteristic discussions. Exhausting, yes, but very enchanting as well. Pep M...
Roungkhanchan 1 (4,600m), north wall; Troubles, Cough and Fever. During August, Marco Zebochin, Stefano Zaleri, and I (all members of GARS— part of Società Alpina delle Giulie, the local branch of Italian Alpine Club) climbed a new route on Roungk...
Tirich Mir West III. Swiss made the second ascent of Tirich Mir West III (c. 7400 meters or 24,279 feet), following shortly after French climbers, whose fixed ropes permitted a rapid ascent up the steep, difficult route. Base Camp was set up on Ju...