McKinley, Traverse of Southwest Face. On May 15, after reaching the summit of Denali via the Cassin Ridge, Bill Pierson, Antoly Bukneev, Joel Butler, Tim Maryon, Greg Smith and I opted to return to our high camp at 17,700 feet on the Cassin and at...
Utah, Mt. Olympus. On 3 August Malcolm Wills (24) and Carol Clawson (20) were climbing a technical route on Mt. Olympus. Neither climber had suitable boots or other climbing gear. They were tied together by approximately 50 feet of ¼ inch nylon pa...
Stanford Alpine Club. The Stanford Alpine Club continues to emphasize preparation for and climbing in Yosemite Valley through weekly local practice climbs. Many informally organized trips supplemented scheduled club trips to Yosemite Valley in the...
Annapurna via Khangsar Kang (Roc Noir) Attempt. Eight French and three Nepalese climbers were led by Marc Batard. They hoped to climb over Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak) and Tarke Kang (Glacier Dome) to reach the east ridge of Khangsar Kang and thence ...
Parbati South, Kulu. Six past or present members of Aston University and a doctor travelled overland in an ex-RAF ambulance to India. After three weeks of negotiations in Delhi, we received a permit to attempt Parbati South. This 20,101-foot uncli...
During September, Roger Everett and I, with our wives Christine Richardson and Dairena Gaffney, visited the Haptal Nalla. We approached Kishtwar via Galhar, Athole, Machail and Sumcham in five days and set up Base Camp at Bujwas at 3400 meters opp...
Volcdn Michinmahuida, West Face. The icy dome of Michinmahuida Volcano (8,071'), near the town of Chaiten in northern Chilean Patagonia, is rarely visited because of bad weather and a long approach trek through the cold jungle. In three days, fini...
Appalachian Mountain Club. It was an off year in 1971 for the biennial mountaineering training camps. A 1972 camp is planned where eastern climbers may obtain experience in glacier travel and the ascent of rock, snow, and ice-covered peaks. The al...
Ama Dablam, New West Face Variant in Winter. Glenn Dunmire and I made an alpine-style winter ascent of a new variant on the west face of Ama Dablam. The face has three main features, two of which are gullies overhung by hanging glaciers. The left ...
Tres Cruces, Ojos del Salado and other peaks, Atacama Province. A scientific-sporting expedition was organized by Valparaíso mountain clubs in order to climb in the Tres Cruces massif, located on the Chilean-Argentinian border, west of Ojos del Sa...
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkSix rock climbing accidents were reported in 1989. Four were solo climbers, and three falls resulted in serious fractures. The other two falls were not adequately protec...
FALL FROM A SNOW-COVERED BOULDERWashington, North Cascades National Park, Eldorado PeakOn July 18th, a party of four mountaineers were on approach to Eldorado Peak on the lower snow slopes of the Eldorado Glacier. While pausing on the upper side o...
Khatung Kang. A small Swiss expedition consisting only of Engineer Dériaz, his wife Marguerite, and Arthur Baumgartner, left Katmandu March 28 and traveled to Thorungtse Pass above Muktinath. Mme. Dériaz and Baumgartner reached the 20,670-foot pea...
ICE TOOL PLACEMENT FAILURE, FALL ON ICE, BROKEN ANKLEWashington, Mount RainierAt 1400 on July 28, 1991, Cohn Clubine (43) suffered a broken ankle at the 1600 meter level of the Nisqually Glacier on Mount Rainier. John, along with 12 other students...
Washington, Mt. Baker—During the weekend of July 22-24th there was a college outing on Mt. Baker. During the descent of the 29-man party on the west side of the mountain, they came to the last steep snow slope on the snout of the glacier. The lead...
ROPE STUCK ON RAPPEL, STRANDED California, Yosemite Valley, Royal ArchesOn June 16, 1993, around 1630, Erika Heine (19) and Tracy Walker (29) stuck their rope while rappelling on the Royal Arches descent route. They were at the third rappel statio...
Peak 13,332 (On the main crest between Mt. Darwin and Haeckel). The first ascent of this mountain was made from the west on July 19th, 1933, by Neil Ruge, Ballah Ballantine and Glen Dawson.
Jarjinjabo Range, first ascent of unnamed rock tower. Four Japanese climbers, Eiji Daigo, Yuriko Kowaka, Naoki Ohuchi, and Taizo Yoshida, made the first ascent of an unnamed granite tower in the Jarjinjabo Massif above Zhopu Pasture. This region o...
Lower Karcha Parvat (6,060m). A three-member Japanese team, led by Tsuneo Suzuki, established base camp in the Karcha Nala at 4,420m. They made Camp 1 at 4,700m and Camp 2 at 5,200m, from where Ritsuyu Matsubara and three high-altitude porters cli...
FALLING ROCK—Quebec, Mont St. Hilaire. Michel and Daniel (18) DeRoy finished climbing the Voie Normale on Mont St. Hilaire on October 22, 1972, and stopped for a cigarette and unroped. Michel told his brother to stay where he was and descended to ...