Cerro La Mano and Other Peaks, Cordón de los Penitentes. Our expedition was composed of Pablo Hülskamp, Alejandro Robert, Guido Iglesias, Gustavo Glickman, Daniel Sagalovsky and me as leader. Our chief objective was the south face of Cerro La Mano...
Jannu, North Face Attempt. Unfortunately we did not succeed on the north face of Jannu (Kumbhakarna) in spite of eight weeks on the mountain. We stopped at 23,300 feet, still three days from the summit as we calculate it. It was the most moving ex...
Mt. Foraker, southeast ridge, winter ascent. On the morning of February 8 I departed base camp (6,550') on the southwest fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. I made Camp I at 6,400 feet below the base of the southeast ridge in the evening. My route began...
Miangul Sar, Swat-Kohistan. Our party consisted of W. E. Donohue, leader, J. Lovatt, G. D. Hughes, B. D. Chase, Dr. M. McMahon and myself. We climbed Miangul Sar (19,673 feet), which is locally called Dingi Sar. We drove to Saidu Sherif, capital o...
On September 9 my daughter Lynnea, my wife Sigrid, and I completed a new route on 1,100' Disappearing Dome, in the San Joaquin River gorge. Although this is a steep, prominent formation, it has only one other reported route, done over 30 y...
Kanjiroba. An expedition of the Osaka Shiritsu University was led by Kazuhisa Jokei and composed of Ichiryo Sato, Hiroshi Okuda, Hirotada Sawai, Munehiro Sawada, Shinichi Suwa and Masayki Goto. From Jumla they traveled to Base Camp via Chondabish ...
Nagishlamina, East Ridge. In May Brad Gessner, Doug Munoz, Stuart Parks, and I, all of Anchorage, completed a new route on, and made the second ascent of, 11,068' Nagishlamina, one of five peaks over 11,000' in the Tordrillo Range. Our line climbe...
Nameless Tower, North Face, New Route. Our ten-week expedition to Pakistan was successful in establishing a new big-wall route on the north face of Nameless Tower, Wall Fiction (a.k.a. Choss Up Another One, VI A4 5.10 WI3). The route was somewhere...
Niut Range. A party of seven members of the British Columbia Mountaineering Club visited the Niut Range, located east of the Waddington group, for two weeks in late August. Approach was from Trout Lake up Quartz Creek and into the head of Fire Fin...
Milne Island, East Greenland. Our expedition consisted of John Shrewsbury, leader, Mike Garrett, Margaret Graham, Anne and Henry Wheatcroft, Chris Whitford and me. Milne Island is a remote, and as far as we could ascertain, nearly unexplored islan...
Finger of Fate, Sawtooth Range. Dick Dorworth and I made this new route in August. We followed several small open-books on a dihedral 75 feet to the right of the existing route, which goes up the prominent right-facing open-book. The first 75 feet...
Note: Climbs of Mts. Alverstone and Cook, border peaks between Alaska and the Yukon (Canada), are covered in the Canada section of this Journal.
Chicago Mountaineering Club. Despite our midwest location, interest in mountaineering continues to draw new members into the organization, and several active climbers joined our roster this year. During 1961 the club sponsored 15 week-end outings ...
Uzun Brakk. A Scottish expedition led by Alexander Dickson made the very difficult ascent of Uzun Brakk (6422 meters, 21,069 feet) by the northeast face. The peak, which lies north of the Biafo Glacier, is also known as Conway’s Ogre. The summit w...
Korona, North Face of First Tower, Solo Dream. From May 6-9, Alexander Ruchkin established the route Solo Dream (Russian grade 5B, or 6a A4, 600m) on the north face of the First Tower of Korona (4810m) in the Ala Archa National Park. Korona lies a...
Quebrada Carhuascancha. My wife Ann, Nate Adams and I headed up the Quebrada Carhuascancha from Huántar on the eastern slope of the Cordillera Blanca. We were accompanied by the Peruvians Glicerio and Eustaquio Henostroza and Oscar Aranda. Our pla...
Sarapo, South Face Ascent and West Face Ski Descent. Italians Toni Valeruz and Tita Weiss made the ascent of the west face of Sarapo in seven hours in late June. Valeruz had intended to descend by paraglider, but the winds seemed too strong. Inste...
FALLING HAUL BAGCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn September 16, 1985,1 received a call indicating that some park visitors had observed a climber fall from El Capitan. I responded with climbers Grant Hisker and Bill Russell, and we began interviewing s...
This previously unattempted peak, which lies at the head of the Batura Glacier in the northwestern Karakoram, was climbed in July. Success was marred by a fatal accident which during the descent befell the two members who reached the summit. The e...
(a) MOUNTAIN FATALITIESCalifornia: (1) Yosemite Valley. On 22 March 1949 Kenneth A. Haines (19) and Peter B. Yeazell (18), from Fresno, California, were killed in a fall in the vicinity of lower Yosemite Falls. The boys were tied together with a ...