Mount Logan, East-West Traverse. We members of the Senshu Alpine Club traversed Mount Logan from east to west via the east, central and west peaks. The east-ridge party was composed of Tsuneo Ohnishi, Tomikazu Himemoto, Takeshi Itatani, Teruo Saka...

Fairweather from the North. On May 8, Dean James from Wales, Ian Berry and Andrew Allerton from England, and I from Alaska were flown to 3000 feet on the Grand Plateau Glacier by Kurt Gloyer of Gulf Air after six days in Yakutat waiting for flying...

P 19,950, Balcchish Range, Hispar Wall. Jamie Thin and I climbed P 19,550 (5959 meters) at the eastern end of the Balcchish Range on the southern side of the Hispar Glacier. We crossed an easy icefall to bivouac below the 2500-foot ice headwall of...

Kohe Keshnikhan. The members of our expedition were Ulrike Boltz, Bernd Brügge, Claus Dittmers, Heiko Irmisch, Frank John, Martin and Ulrich Roeder and I as leader. Base Camp was in the Keshnikhan valley at 13,775 feet. We climbed Kohe Tokhan (16,...

Manaslu, Ascent of Manaslu North I and Attempt on Manaslu North II. An expedition of 11 South Koreans was led by Park Tae-Gyu. On September 25, Lee Yong-Cheol and Ngawang Phurba Sherpa claimed to have completed the ascent of Manaslu (8163 meters, ...

CONCLUSIONFrom the foregoing it is clear that a systematic study of the glaciers of North America and the meteorological conditions in their vicinity has been begun. It is highly desirable that this work should continue and be extended to every im...

Everest, overcrowding on the North Ridge. Climbers on the Tibetan side had similar complaints to those on the Nepal side. A Swiss expedition leader said that when he and his group on their way to the top reached 8,600m (28,200 feet), near the bott...

Shisha Pangma Central from the North, Post-Monsoon. Several Spanish groups under the overall leadership of Toni Vives, but acting more or less independently, climbed Shisha Pangma Central by the normal route. On September 27, Magda Nos climbed to ...

Mountain Climbing Guide to the Grand Tetons, by Henry Coulter and Merrill F. McLane. 66 pages, with a map and 13 sketches. Hanover, N. H.: Dartmouth Mountaineering Club, 1947. $2.00.Since the publication of Fritiof Fryxell’s excellent work on the ...

After much negotiation with the CTMA, Kazuya Hiraide and I secured a permit to climb Gaurishankar in the autumn. Still we had a difficult time getting to the northeast side of this mountain. Our approach was up the Rongshar and Menlung valleys, bu...

Number ofTotalAccidents ReportedPersons InvolvedInjuredFatalitiesUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN19511522113195231351713195324271212195431413181955343928619564672541319574553281819583239231119594225623101921960474641237819419614996114451014419627119016401...

Physiological and Neuropsychological Characteristics of World-Class Extreme-Altitude ClimbersOswald Oelz and Marianne Regard, Universitätsspital, ZürichON MAY 8, 1978, Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler demonstrated that altitudes higher than 8500...

Mt. Huntington, Harvard Route, Ascent, and Possible New Variation. On May 8-10, Joe Puryear and I climbed the Harvard Route on Mt. Huntington’s west face. To begin the route, we climbed a possible minor variation on the west face that most likely ...

GeographicalDistricts1951-771978NumberofAccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumberofAccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta692511412613British Columbia10640202344Yukon Territory101928000Ontario8312102Quebec7221000East Arctic205100West Arct...

FALL INTO CREVASSE, GLISSADING INSTEAD OF WALKING, UNROPEDWashington, Mount Rainier, Inter GlacierOn August 3, Chris Kapaun was glissading unroped down the Inter Glacier and fell into a crevasse. His partner, Troy Hendrickson witnessed the fall an...

Shuangqiao Gou, first ascents of“Pakla Shan,” “Shuangqiao Peak,” and the northwest face of Tan Shan. The Croatian Mountaineering Federation, to celebrate its 130th anniversary, organized a small expedition to Siguniang National Park. There were fo...

RAPPEL ERROR – UNEVEN ROPE ENDS, FALL ON ROCKHigh Eagle Dome, Shuteye Ridge, CaliforniaOn October 31, after setting up a toprope, I (45) tossed down it down and rappelled. About two thirds of the way down the route, I saw one taped end of the rope...

ROSAMOND NILES1881-1958The first time I met Rosamond Niles was in 1928 when we both were attending an exhibit in New York of the magnificent paintings by the famous Russian artist, Ivan F. Choultse. Absorbed in our admiration of his mountains, glo...

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION, INEXPERIENCE, INADEQUATE FOODCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, MescalitoOn September 24, on the sixth day out, Caroline Brugvin (24) took a lead fall on the 20th pitch of the Mescalito rock climbing route on El Cap...

Minimal ImpactStephen PorcellaAFTER AN EXHAUSTING FULL-DAY APPROACH HIKE, 1500 feet of talus and class-3 wet-rock scrambling, we threw down our gear and made camp amongst a pile of boulders at the base of a large rock wall. Many people had attempt...