Koma Kulshan: The Story of Mt. Baker. John C. Miles. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1984. 232 pages, black and white photographs, sketches, maps, bibliography. $9.95.Koma Kulshan was an Indian name for Mount Baker, the 10,778-foot volcanic peak in the...
Die Weltalte Majestät (The Struggle for the Gross Venediger), by Oskar Kuelken. 8vo., 317 pages and 54 illustrations, 14 sketches and maps. Salzburg: Verlag “Das Bergland Buch,” 1950. Price, $4.00.An almost forgotten phenomenon of Alpine history i...
Maps of Nepal. Harka Gurung. White Orchid Books, Bangkok, 1983. 100 pages, 28 color and black and white maps, many sketches and geological information.The author has been engaged in large-and small-scale planning, not only in his native Nepal but ...
Nanga Parbat, southeast (Rupal) face. From September 1 to 6 Vince Anderson and Steve House made an alpine-style ascent of Nanga Parbat's Rupal Face, via a new line up the central pillar between the south-southeast spur (a.k.a. Messner Route, 1970)...
Appendix to MRC Report. A working relationship has been established between rescue personnel in the Pacific Northwest and rescue authorities in the Alps. The countries concerned formed an International Commission for Alpine Rescue, which is also k...
“Neverseen Tower” and Other Peaks, Miyar Valley. Italians Massimo Marcheggiani, Leone Di Vincenzo and Alberto Miele completed the first ascent of a bold needle, “Neverseen Tower” (c. 5950 meters, 19,520 feet). The 900-meter-high route was climbed ...
BELAY AND TIE-IN ERROR, FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATUtah, Big Cottonwood Canyon, Dogwood CragOn September 26, University of Utah, Remote Rescue Training’s HighAngle Rescue Technician class was practicing rope rescue systems at the Dogwood crag in Big...
The Bean Pole, first ascent; Latok I attempt. On July 12 Bean Bowers and I headed up the north ridge of Latok I to put in a cache and check out the bottom section of the climb. Skirting to the west the rock buttress climbed by many parties, we cli...
On October 9,1993, Joel Blumhagen (43) and Darby Roach were climbing the standard route on Chair Peak. At 1245 Blumhagen clipped into an old piton behind a flake. The flake dislodged and fell on him, starting a small avalanche, and he fell. In t...
Fifty Favorite Climbs: The Ultimate North American Tick List. Mark Kroese. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2001. 150 color photos. 224 pages. $32.95.My bet is that within a year Fifty Favorite Climbs (henceforth FFC) will be found next to Fifty C...
Washington, Denny Creek Trail—Eugene Todd (26), an experienced climber and member of both the Mazamas of Oregon and The Mountaineers of Washington, lost his life in an accident on Sept. 15.Todd and two other Mountaineers, Earl Doan and Tina Hess, ...
Mountain MedicineA review of High-Altitude Cerebral Edemaby Geoffrey Tabin, M.D.The week before Jeff Colovis and I went to climb the Black Dike on Cannon Cliff in New Hampshire, he broke four toes in an accident at his construction job. I suggeste...
Nalumasortoq, Cheese Finger at Three O’Clock. It was reported that Swiss Christian Dalphin led an international team that climbed Cheese Finger at Three O’Clock, an 18-pitch aid line estimated at 550 meters on the central tower of Nalumasortoq. Th...
Lhakpa Sherpa, Nandan Singh Negi, Pemba Sherpa, Thendup Sherpa, and I reached a previously unvisited col on the ridge north of Berthatoli Himal. West of Lata we headed south and crossed two passes traditionally used by shepherds to access the Ront...
New York, Shawangunks (2)—On September 6, Bob Mathews (30), Peggy Mathews (34) (No relation), and Allen Smith (22) set out to climb the “Indecent Exposure”, a variation of the “Easy Overhang”. Bob and Peggy were not affiliated with any club. Allen...
LOSS OF CONTROL, VOLUNTARY GLISSADENorth West Territories, Ellesmere Island, Grise FiordPeter Rogers was glissading a 40-degree snow slope in crampons on the unnamed mountain behind the settlement of Grise Fiord on 2 May 1978. He tripped, fell and...
P2, second ascent, via partial new route. On October 13 Ukrainians Sergei Bublyk, Sergei Kovalev, Aleksander Lavrynenko, and Orest Verbytsky, from a five-member expedition led by Kovalev, made the second ascent of P2 (a.k.a. Simnang Himal; 6,251m)...
Grand Teton, Second Tower, New Route, and Mount Moran, South Face, Various Ascents. In August, I made roped solo ascents of two new routes in the Tetons. The first was the Central Dihedral (IV 5.10+/ 5.11-) on the south face of the Second Tower. T...
Lhotse, Bulgarian Expedition. The Bulgarians had 18 members and seven Sherpas under the leadership of Christo Ivanov Prodanov. They set up their Khumbu Base Camp on March 23. Camps were established at 19,900, 22,300, 24,125 and 26,100 feet between...
Barron Saddle-Mt. Brewster Region, summary. It’s tempting to call the North Buttress of Mt. Hopkins (2,678m) a “last great problem” of the Barron Saddle-Mt. Brewster Region. However, that would be misleading, as it’s more the buttress being isolat...