Churen Himal. Suemitsu Ohtsuka led this six-man expedition of the Hohkei Club. On October 25 Masahiro Nagaoka and the Sherpa Parkam reached the summit from Camp IV at 22,750 feet on the west ridge. They had set up Base Camp (14,925 feet), Camps I ...
Shisha Pangma Central Summit. A Belgian expedition included leader Mark Baruffa, his wife Gille Pille, Reginald Roels, Kris Doom, Jan De Boe, Wouter Bebusscher, two doctors and a TV team. Like many groups before them (see item above), they decline...
Lapche Valley, reconnaissance. In order to find a place that is utterly unknown and to satisfy my curiosity, I decided to visit the unfrequented Lapche Valley, a small but independent mountain group located roughly 100 km northeast of Kathmandu. I...
McCall Glacier, Romanzof Mountains. In the spring of 1969 personnel from the Geophysical Institute of the University of Alaska reoccupied McCall Glacier to continue the glacial and meteorological research begun in 1957-58 during IGY by the Arctic ...
Denali, West Rib, Variation. Jason McHam and I climbed the West Rib route on Denali, sum- mitting on June 26. We believe we made two variations to the standard route. The first variation, from 11,000 to 12,800 feet, is a section of Alaska Grade 4 ...
Mount Logan and Mount Kennedy. Climbing activity in Kluane National Park was again up this year. We had 30 groups made up of 158 people spending a total of 3693 man-days in the park. Five parties climbed the King Trench route of Mount Logan succes...
Steeple Peak, East Temple, Haystack. Lured by the unclimbed northeast face of East Temple, David Black, Alan Bartlett and I completed three new routes on the seldom climbed rock forming the east faces of East Temple, Steeple Peak, and Haystack. Le...
(2) Pipestone Croup Dolomite Peak, 9828 ft. First ascent, June 30. J. M. Thorington, P. Kaufmatin. From Bow Lake by way of rock slides and meadows across a high shoulder to the foot of Dolomite pass. The fourth tower, counting from the north, is t...
California, Kings Canyon (National Forest). On April 20, Daniel Smith (17), Richard Dixon, E. J. Pagliassotti, Jerry Sarquis, and Ellis Hedlund started to make a six class climb to Generator Cave which is about 55 feet up an 80 degree cliff. The c...
Annapurna II Attempt. Rob Collister and I planned a two-man ascent of Annapurna II (26,041 feet) from Pisang in the Manang valley. We placed Base Camp at 17,000 feet directly below the north face of Annapurna II, hoping to find a new and fairly di...
Cerro Torre, Ferrari Route, and Cerro Standhart, Tomahawk and Exocet Routes, First Link- Up. Laurence Monnoyeur and I have been to Patagonia two times, once in 1996 and the second time last year. In 1996, we climbed El Mocho via the Goulotte Grass...
Ganesh IV Winter Attempt, 1981. Our United States-Nepalese party included Mingma Tensing, also sirdar, Yogendra Thapa and Kamal Bandari, also liaison officer, and me. A sirdar and liaison officer are required. Thapa and Bandari are members of the ...
Peak 29 or Dunapurna. The Klub Wysokogórski (High Mountain Club) of Zakopane organized an expedition of six to Peak 29 led by Ryz- sard Szafirski with Leszek Korniszewski as doctor. They discovered that local people living in the valleys west of t...
Baba Tangi. The Italian Oxus Expedition reached Khandut and explored the Wakhan range of the Hindu Kush. From Qala Panja, they reached the Little Pamir, discovering a peak of about 6000 meters (19,685 feet), called by the inhabitants of the region...
Mt. Hobbs; Middle Peak. In early April Ruedi Hornberger, Reto Reusch, and a friend they call Gonzo made the first ascent of a 10,500-foot peak between Celeno Peak and Ultima Thule Peak. They accessed the peak from Canyon Creek Glacier and named it...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. The Section met five times during the year. Programs included illustrated talks on climbs of Nevado Copa, Palcaraju, Huandoy, and Chacraraju in Peru by Leigh Ortenburger; ascents of Mount Hooker in the Wind Rivers an...
Chacraraju, South Face Attempt. On August 21 Alberto García and Francisco José Escolar of Spain and I as guide climbed the south face of Chacraraju. We climbed between the 1978 Richey-Brewer and the Jager routes to the top of the face. We broke tr...
Maashey Valley, Various Ascents. The Altai mountains straddle the border area of Russia, Kazakhstan, Mongolia and China. Much of the mountaineering interest in the range lies within Russia—broadly speaking, in southwest Siberia, or more precisely ...
Baruntse Attempt. Our expedition hoped to climb Baruntse by the normal southeast ridge. We established Base Camp, Camps I and II at 5400, 6100 (on the west col) and 6500 meters. On October 25, Xavier Pignède, Françoise Bouchut, Françoise Goudet, J...
STRANDED, EXPOSURE–HYPOTHERMIA, INADEQUATE CLOTHING/ EQUIPMENT, CLIMBING ALONE, WEATHER, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn September 4 at 0400, Sudheer Averineni (26) from Fort Collins began an attempt on Lon...