H.W. Tilman, The Eight Sailing/Mountain-Exploration Books by H.W. Tilman. Published simultaneously in the U.K. and the USA by Diadem Books, London and The Mountaineers, Seattle. 1967. 16 pages of color photos, maps. 995 pages. $36.Tilman must be t...
Karakol region, Pik Slonenok, north face; Pik Karakolski, north face; Dzhigit, north face. The Terskey Ala-Too runs for 300km along the southern edge of Lake Issyk Kul. Its highest summits are located by the Karakol Valley. The range used to be a ...
Mt. Aiseo, northwest face. Having never climbed in the Greater Ranges before and with a fulltime job to start in September, I found the prospect of a first trip to the Himalaya hard to resist. Adriano Ferrero, Simon Lorenz, Aimone Ripa di Meana, O...
INVOLUNTARY GLISSADE, FALL INTO A CREVASSE UNROPED— Washington, Forbidden Peak. About 2 p.m., Sunday, July 13, 1975, Steve Firebaugh (24), John Holland (31), Mary O’Coner (25), and Joe O’Coner (24) began a descent of Forbidden Peak after having su...
Mount McKinley’s South Face-1967Del Langbauer and Roman Laba Langbauer introduces the expedition:The story of McKinley’s South Face goes back several years. Its ridges and faces have been the scene of attempts by Americans, Italians, and Japanese....
K2, winter attempt on the north ridge. The Winter Netia K2 Expedition (Netia is the biggest Polish TV company and during the expedition there were daily prime-time television reports) included four experienced alpinists from CIS. It departed from ...
Thirteen long years have passed since I first tried to climb Cerro Torre from the north, with Guido Bonvicini and Adriano Cavallaro. We made our first attempt during October, and we managed to reach the base of the so-called English Dihedral, clim...
K2 Attempt. Our international team was led by Netherlander Wim Van Harskamp and further comprised Tim Styles, Matt Comesky, Michael White head, Bob Schelfont and me. We established Base Camp at 5100 meters after a two-week delay caused by the cust...
The Sirens of Mount SalisburyPeter A. SpeerTHE FAIRWEATHER MOUNTAINS lie on a peninsula in southeast Alaska at one point only 15 miles wide, where over a dozen peaks tower to a height of more than two miles between the waters of Glacier Bay and th...
Charge of Hoax Against Robert E. Peary ExaminedTerris MooreEVER SINCE the return of Dr. Frederick A. Cook and Commander Robert E. Peary from the Arctic, within a week of each other in September 1909, both claiming to have reached the North Pole, p...
The Highest Mountain in the WorldA current article in the National Geographic Magazine about the Andes of Ecuador, makes the interesting observation that Cotopaxi is higher than Mount Everest. The reasoning is that the earth, not being a perfect s...
The Second Ascent of Nanda DeviNawang Gombu, Himalayan Mountaineering InstituteOurs was the third Indian attempt on Nanda Devi.* The first was organized in 1957 under the late Major N. D. Jayal, the first Principal of the Himalayan Mountaineering ...
Beyond the Southern Lakes: The Explorations of W. G. Grave, edited by his daughter Anita Crozier. 124 pages, with illustrations and sketch map. Wellington, N. Z.: A. H. and A. W. Reed, 1950. Price, 12/6.Farthest West, by A. H. Reed and A. W. Reed....
Annapurna IIIExpeditioning the British Way during the first ascent of the southwest ridge, Nepal.By Kenton CoolSlumped in my sleeping bag, I desperately tried to get the stove going. I looked across at Ian, who was shaking uncontrollably with cold...
ED LINK1914-1989Ed (Hazel E.) Link, an AAC member since 1945, died of cancer in Seattle on April 14, 1989. He was 74. Hiking and skiing trips with his Boy Scout troop provided Ed’s first mountain experiences when he was in his early teens. Later, ...
Broad Peak, Sam Ford Fiord, Baffin Island. In April Steve Trafton, Martin Waller, Brad Albro, Lynn Buchanan, Jim Shedd and I traveled to Clyde River via Montreal, Frobisher Bay, Pangnirtung and Broughton Island. After meeting with the Innuit Settl...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPEDBritish Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Grays PeakTwo climbers departed the Gibson Lake parking lot in the early morning of July 16 and traveled through dense bush for several hours to the base of the west face of Grays ...
Nevados Santa Martha and "SAM,” Cordillera Huayhuash. On June 22 we left Lima for the town of Chiquián, where we wasted two days before finding pack animals. It took all of the day of June 25 to get to the town of Llamac, another day to reach the ...
AAC, Sierra Nevada Section. It was an active year as usual for our members, starting with an April 6 fundraiser, complete with donated prizes from sponsors for raffle or auction, at the Berkeley Ironworks Gym. I premiered “Driven Crazy,” a slide s...
Tumarinaraju, Milpocraju, TsurupH. Adams Carter with sections by David Peterson, Ronald E. Fear and William LahrTHE donkey drivers were only a little more reluctant than the donkeys themselves to attack that last steep thousand feet to Base Camp. ...