FALL ON ROCKOregon, Mount JeffersonOn August 3, 1984, Keith Repetto (28) and William Evans (age unknown) fell over 150 meters to their deaths while descending the north ridge of Mount Jefferson. They were last heard from at 1700 on that date when ...
Long Ago on Mount CookConrad KainTHE climbing season in New Zealand is from November to April. Mt. Cook (12,349 feet), in the Southern Alps, has the reputation of making its own weather. In the season 1915-16 I made four attempts to climb the moun...
The Catapult, Jokers and Fools; Marching Men, Tin Drum and Toy Soldier. June found John Catto and me working together in India, trying to film bull sharks in the Ganges river. During an evening of cruising river channels and drinking extra-strong ...
Moab Area. On the Merrimac Butte, 200 feet left of its prow, Stuart and Bret Ruckman established The Albatross (I, 5.11c). There have been at least six new lines climbed on the butte that are still to be documented. Jim Dunn and Betsy McKittrick c...
JAMES F. BONNER 1910-1996James F. Bonner, an AAC member since 1948, passed away on September 13, 1996, at the age of 86. He earned his Bachelor of Art degree in chemistry and mathematics from the University of Utah in 1931. He completed his Doctor...
ACUTE ABDOMINAL PAINAlaska, Denali National Park, Mount McKinley, West ButtressAlan Arnette (50) registered with the National Park Service as a client with an Alaska Mountaineering School guided expedition (AMS-11) on June 12. Following an unevent...
On November 2, Slovenian Tomaž Humar reached the high point of his climb on the south face of Dhaulagiri I. Behind him lay an audacious seven-day ascent on a steep 4000-meter face that was documented on both film and the internet. He was exhausted...
Ascents East of Mount McKinley. Late in June Ken Laufer and I, both seasonal rangers in McKinley National Park, made the third ascent of Peak 8620. (First ascent by Adams Carter and party in 1957; see A.A.J., 1958, 11:1, p. 91. Second ascent by Ge...
Cerro Imán from the Southeast. Miguel Beorchia and local hillman Roberto Vega approached by the Arroyo Caserones and on May 17 made the first ascent of the southeast face of Cerro Imán (5467 meters, 17,938 feet). The mountain had been previously c...
Ascents above the Lower Muldrow Glacier, McKinley Range. Our group was unusual because of age. Leaving me out, but counting our "old men”—Harvard graduate students Harold Boeschenstein and Roger Dane, and the latter’s wife Lee—our average was only...
Latok III, Attempt. The members of the expedition were Alexander Odintsov (leader), Sergey Efimov, Alexander Rutchkin, Yuri Koshelenko, and Michail Bakin, the expedition doctor. Our Base Camp was established in a morainal pocket less than two hour...
FALL ON ICE, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION Wyoming, TetonsI, Doug Bringhurst (28), was climbing the Black Ice Couloir in Grand Teton National Park on August 9,1986, with Hal Throolin (37). We were alternating leads on the ice. We had climbed about ...
ROCKFALL, UNFORTUNATE POSITION Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, The SnazOn July 24, after a successful climb, our party of three was on the last (sizeable but sloping) ledge and final rappel of the route. I (Scott McGee, 39) was struck on the f...
Kassala area, various new routes. Lost in the Sudanese East, only a few kilometers from the border with Eritrea, a small island of a dozen granitic monoliths dominate the town of Kassala. Baboons and vultures live there. French climbers Matthieu N...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. The summer of 1953 saw undergraduate and graduate members of the D. M. C. climbing in many areas. It is of interest to note that in the western United States 8 members visited the Front Range and 2, the Sangre de Cri...
FALL ON SNOW, INEXPERIENCE, WEATHER Washington, Mount RainierThis is a report on the triple fatality on Mount Rainier in May of 1988. It turned into a media event. Fortunately, a summary of the essential details was prepared objectively by the ran...
Everest: De los Andes al Himalaya. Gastón Oyarzún. SEL Publicaciones, Santiago, 1984. 197 pages, black and white and color photographs.Reinhold Messner once said that the age of national Himalayan expeditions had come to an end. This assertion has...
Black Hills, South Dakota. There are few more readily accessible rock climbing regions than the fantastic spires in the Black Hills. Probably only a half-mile from the Needles Highway are the jagged Cathedral Spires, many of whose summits have bee...
Souvenirs from High Places, A History of Mountain Photography. Joe Bensen. Mountaineers Books: Seattle. 151 color and black-and-white photos. 144 pages. $35.00.Souvenirs from High Places: A History of Mountain Photography is a pleasing collection ...
OFF ROUTE, FALL ON ROCKColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Lumpy RidgeMy partner and I (ages not recorded) were climbing White Whale (5.7) at Lumpy Ridge on July 15. It is considered by many as a fantastic three-pitch trad route. Neither of us...