Annapurna IIIExpeditioning the British Way during the first ascent of the southwest ridge, Nepal.By Kenton CoolSlumped in my sleeping bag, I desperately tried to get the stove going. I looked across at Ian, who was shaking uncontrollably with cold...
ED LINK1914-1989Ed (Hazel E.) Link, an AAC member since 1945, died of cancer in Seattle on April 14, 1989. He was 74. Hiking and skiing trips with his Boy Scout troop provided Ed’s first mountain experiences when he was in his early teens. Later, ...
Broad Peak, Sam Ford Fiord, Baffin Island. In April Steve Trafton, Martin Waller, Brad Albro, Lynn Buchanan, Jim Shedd and I traveled to Clyde River via Montreal, Frobisher Bay, Pangnirtung and Broughton Island. After meeting with the Innuit Settl...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPEDBritish Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Grays PeakTwo climbers departed the Gibson Lake parking lot in the early morning of July 16 and traveled through dense bush for several hours to the base of the west face of Grays ...
Nevados Santa Martha and "SAM,” Cordillera Huayhuash. On June 22 we left Lima for the town of Chiquián, where we wasted two days before finding pack animals. It took all of the day of June 25 to get to the town of Llamac, another day to reach the ...
AAC, Sierra Nevada Section. It was an active year as usual for our members, starting with an April 6 fundraiser, complete with donated prizes from sponsors for raffle or auction, at the Berkeley Ironworks Gym. I premiered “Driven Crazy,” a slide s...
Tumarinaraju, Milpocraju, TsurupH. Adams Carter with sections by David Peterson, Ronald E. Fear and William LahrTHE donkey drivers were only a little more reluctant than the donkeys themselves to attack that last steep thousand feet to Base Camp. ...
Yerupajá Sur, South Face; Rondoy, West Face; Rasac and Anco-cancha. Rab Carrington and I left Chiquián in late May for Base Camp at Jahuakocha. After several days of acclimatizing, we walked up the Quebrada Huacrish and bivouacked below Ancocancha...
Medicine for Mountaineers, Wilkerson, James A., M.D., Editor. Published by The Mountaineers, P.O. Box 122, Seattle, Washington 98111; c. 330 pages. The need for a comprehensive handbook of medicine for mountaineers has been recognized for years. T...
Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Persons InvolvedInjuredFatalitiesUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN19511522113195231351713195324271212195431413181955343928619564672541319574553281819583239231119594225623101921960 474641237819419614996114451014419627119016...
Californians in AlaskaRoyal S. Robbins I ADMIT TO reservations about the title of this piece. The human proclivity to categorization being relentless, I am not sure I want to be known as a Californian. We read of astonishing Japanese successes in ...
Manaslu. The nine-member team from West Germany included a Nepali. The leader of this northeast ridge attempt was Gerhard Lenser. Base Camp was set up on March 28 and Camp I the next day. Camps II and III were established at 18,375 and 21,000 feet...
And The Blind Shall SeeThanks to new techniques and dedicated doctors, the end is in sight for the epidemic of needless blindness in the Himalaya.Geoffrey TabinThe expedition begins with the usual frenzied packing in Kathmandu. Each box is careful...
AVALANCHENevada, Spring Mountain Ranch, Kyle CanyonOn March 24, Russ Peterson (40) an Las Vegas Metropolitan Police Dept. SAR Officer, and J. R., LVMPD SAR Volunteer, snow shoed in to Angel Falls in Kyle Canyon to climb the Hosemonster (WI5). Snow...
Billy Taylor, SourdoughNorman BrightTHE audacity of the four tillicums who, in 1910, conquered Mt. McKinley’s North Peak, has been a never-ending source of astonishment to present-day mountaineers. At that time, only one of the Great Four—McKinley...
Everest, cross-border traverses. Everest traverses seem to have become the latest fashion, with an unprecedented four successfully completed in the spring season. Three had received permission from both the Chinese and Nepalese authorities; one ha...
Millions of stars stabbed through the darkness; a dusty ledge was our bed, stones our pillows. Inadequate bivy gear and general gumbiness were turning my first Yosemite climb with Max Hasson into an epic. Up with the dawn, Max threw himself at the...
Climbs from Ape Lake, Coast Range. Fourteen members of the British Columbia Mountaineering Club were flown to Ape Lake by A.A.C. member Roger Dane from his Chilanko Lodge near Kleena Kleene on July 18 and 19. Since there were three unclimbed peaks...
Incidence of Acute Mountain SicknessA Study of Winter Visitors to Six Colorado ResortsCharles S. Houston, M.D.MANY THINK OF altitude illness as an uncommon affliction of foolhardy mountaineers but the steadily increasing interest in skiing, hiking...
Cordillera Raura.1 On September 28 the Scot Frank Hepburn and I climbed the survey point Juraopata (c. 5000 meters or 16,404 feet) but its easy western slopes from the incipient mine, Uchuc Chacua, six miles northeast of Oyón in the southeastern C...