Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Commonwealth of Independent States, Russia, Siberia, Altai Mountains, Northern Chuisky Range, Maashey, Northern Wall, Bydonov Route

Maashey, Northwest Wall, Bydonov Route. The Rubtsov Mountain Club (D. Sergeev, leader, E. Vinnikov, A. Drakie) made an ascent of Maashey (4173m) via the P. Bydonov route on the northwest wall from July 31-August 1 in 24 hours of climbing. The asce...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine-Chilean Patagonia, Fitz Roy, Nearly Complete Ascent of the North Face, Tehuelche Route

Fitz Roy, Nearly Complete Ascent of the North Face, Tehuelche Route. More details are now available about the new Italian route on the north face of Fitz Roy, mentioned on page 203 of A.A.J., 1986. This lay between the 1984 Polish route and the Fr...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Mexico, El Gran Trono Blanco, East Face (Direct), Sierra Juárez

El Gran Trono Blanco, East Face (Direct), Sierra Juárez On December 27 to 29, Isabelle and Henri Agresti and Larry Gorbet climbed a new route on this 1600-foot face in Baja California. The route went almost all free, and the rock was excellent. Le...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Garhwal, Chaturangi Glacier

Chaturangi Glacier. An expedition sponsored by the Gangotri Glacier Exploration Committee, of which I am President, climbed an unnamed virgin peak (20,682 feet) in the Chaturangi region on October 7. The summit climbers were Dr. Swapan Roy Choudhu...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Baruntse Attempt

Baruntse Attempt. Four West Germans under the leadership of Ulrich Weber were unable to climb Baruntse via the south ridge from the east col. They reached 6200 meters on October 17.Elizabeth Hawley


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel/Lowering Failure—Fall on Rock, No Hard Hat, Colorado, Boulder Canyon

RAPPEL/LOWERING FAILURE—FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATColorado, Boulder CanyonOn June 22, two climbers were on a route behind Boulder Falls in Boulder Canyon. The leader, who had more than 20 years of rock climbing experience, topped out and placed an ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Central Argentine Andes, Aconcagua, Overview

Aconcagua, overview. The official season for climbing Aconcagua is from November 15 to March 15. The Parque Provincial Aconcagua had had 4,434 visitors as of March 7, 2002. Nearly 88 percent of the climbers were non-Argentines, and 410 Argentines ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Exhaustion, Exceeding Abilities, Protection Pulled Out, No Hard Hat, Nevada, Red Rocks

FALL ON ROCK, EXHAUSTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES,PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HARD HAT Nevada, Red RocksThe Bobs went to Red Rocks in April for a week of climbing and were on their fourth day. Mark Quiring (27) arrived midweek and was climbing on his fi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna South Attempt

Annapurna South Attempt. The 1984-5 winter attempt by Japanese led by Nobuaki Miyano on the south face of Annapurna South failed. Details are lacking.Elizabeth Hawley


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Guyana, Roraima, The Scorpion Wall

Roraima, The Scorpion Wall. My dream of climbing a tepui began more than 10 years ago. An article in National Geographic captured my imagination, with its photos of huge virgin rock walls soaring above a remote, mysterious jungle. Tepuis, I learne...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, Hallets Peak

Hallets Peak.* In mid-July Larry Bruce and I completed a 12-pitch girdle traverse of the 2nd and 3rd Buttresses. This recommended route starts on the obvious ledge a third of the way up the 2nd Buttress and moves straight out across the face just ...


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table II

Geographical DistrictsNumber of Accidents1951–69Total Persons InvolvedNumber of Accidents1970Total Persons InvolvedDeathsDeathsCanadaAlberta 251131000British Columbia471474737Yukon Territory559000Ontario111000Quebec111000United StatesAtlantic — No...


Club Activities AAJ
Mountaineering Club of Alaska

Mountaineering Club of Alaska. The MCA in 1972 continued its active program of sponsoring and practicing the use of mountaineering skills, both in our “backyard” Chugach Range and in the Talkeetnas, Wrangells, and other challenging Alaskan massifs...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, DeLong Mountains, Brooks Range

DeLong Mountains, Brooks Range. The cold spring and wet summer in the Alaskan Arctic caused floods that swept away villages in the Koyukuk. While studying the western arctic caribou herd with its record 600,000 members, we crossed the DeLong Mount...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Unroped, Inadequate Equipment, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, The Lions

FALL ON SNOW, UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTBritish Columbia, Coast Mountains, The LionsDan J. and Kris J. were descending crusty snow after a climb about midafternoon on January 20, 1991, when Dan fell, and slid about 100 meters before he struck a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Latok III

Latok III. Latok III, which rises above the Baintha Lupka Glacier has, according to Pakistani officials we talked to, had twenty official attempts. However, our ascent was only the second, following the Japanese first ascent in 1977 when they clim...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Karakorma, Panmah Muztagh, Trango Tower (6251 m), Almost-Free Ascent of Eternal Flame

Trango Tower (6,251m), almost-free ascent of Eternal Flame. This spring, Toni met Kurt Albert, who told him about his route, Eternal Flame, on the south face of Trango Tower and the possibility of free climbing it. The result was that three months...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistani-Afgan Frontier Area, Kohe Keshnikhan

Kohe Keshnikhan. The Southwest German Hindu Kush Expedition was led by Karl Fücks. They drove from Germany to Wark in the Wakhan and walked for two days up the Keshnikhan valley to Base Camp at 13,750 feet. For acclimatization, on July 21 Wolfgang...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Manaslu Ascent and Tragedy

Manaslu Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition was made up of Italians Marco Bianchi, Giorgio Passino, Christian Kunter, Mario Corradini, Belgian Sven Vermeiren, Bulgarians Yordanka and Borislav Dimitrov, Poles Barbara Stocka, Sylwia Dmowska, Mariusz ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Cerro Torre, South Face

Cerro Torre, South Face. Marko Lukic, Miha Prapotnik and I climbed an extremely difficult new route on the south face of the Cerro Torre, completed on February 25, 1994. It lies entirely to the right of the route I did with Silvo Karo in 1988. It ...