WARREN T. BLESER1938-1973Warren T. Bleser was a 35-year-old Seattle high-school teacher, whose main objective and passion in life was mountain climbing. For over twenty years he had spent his summers climbing in practically every mountain area in ...
K6 Group, Changi Tower (ca 6,500m), northwest ridge, attempt. In July 2010 Andrzej Gluszek, Piotr Sztaba, and I, from Poland, visited the K6 group intending to make the first ascent of the prominent Changi Tower [Editors note: This formation is no...
Research on Mount McKinley. During the 1981 climbing season, a lengthy questionnaire was circulated among Mount McKinley climbers by the Department of High-Latitude Studies of the University of Alaska, Anchorage, in cooperation with the National P...
Tela 2, attempt. A Polish expedition led by 70-year-old Andrez Zoinski and comprising 10 members attempted unclimbed Tela 2 (6,035m) on the Tela Glacier. After traveling by road over the Rohtang Pass and across Lahaul to Darcha, they trekked north...
VICTOR JOSENDAL1920-1990Victor Josendal, a long-time member of the American Alpine Club and the Alpine Club of Canada, died of cancer on September 28, 1990.Vic graduated from Stanford University as an aero-engineer in 1941. He worked his entire ca...
Himalayan Quest: Ed Viesturs on the 8,000 Meter Giants. Ed Viesturs. Washington D.C.: National Geographic Press, 2003. 159 pages. Paperback. $20.00.Himalayan Quest is a beautiful book that provides a spectacular series of photographs depicting Ed ...
Agujas Poincenot and Saint Exupéry. The expedition commemorating the 50th anniversary of the Club Andino Bariloche reached two important summits. For two days Guido Iglesias and Pablo Hülskamp fixed 1000 feet of rope on the most difficult part of ...
K2 Attempt. The object of our expedition was to open a new route on the northwest face of K2. After getting to the tongue of the K2 Glacier with 35 camels, we carried loads to Base Camp, which we established at 4950 meters on June 19. We were surp...
“Remnant Tower, ” Colorado National Monument. This small spire guards the entrance to Lizard Canyon and the north entrance. It is just south of P 4715. In May Walt Kuentzel and I made the first free ascent and the second overall ascent. It was fir...
AVALANCHENew Hampshire, Mt. WashingtonEarly in the afternoon of March 8, 1980, three climbers were caught in an avalanche near the top of Odell’s Gully in Huntington Ravine. The leader, Dave Gustafson (an experienced technical ice climber), was sw...
Lara Shan (Peak 5,700m), first ascent, American Standard. Chad Kellogg and I were to make our second attempt on Mt. Siguniang (6,250m) in April. After reaching base camp at just under 12,000' in the Changping Valley, we decided on an unnamed, uncl...
Mounts Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse, “Trilogy” Attempt. A predominantly German expedition had a plan for what they called “a trilogy” of three summits: Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse. They succeeded in summiting only Mount Nuptse, the lowest of their t...
Washington, Mt. Index. On 26 December, Horace Gates (42), and his three sons, William (16), Louis (13), and Frank (12) set out for a day trip to Lake Serene at the 2900-foot level of Mt. Index. The weather was clear and balmy for a December day so...
In August 2001 an Appalachian State student named Chris and I climbed a new 800' variation to the High Route on the Enclosure. It parallels the High Route on the right and goes at IV 5.10+R/X.In October 2001 Bob Webster and I made the first ascent...
On May 9, Russel Mitrovich, Mike Libecki, and Josh Helling arrived in the small village of Clyde River, Baffin Island. The next day was spent traveling 60 miles across the frozen Arctic Ocean on snowmobile. The highly inspired expedition team pu...
Mount Winstone, North Face, British Columbia Coast Range, 1986. In August 1986 Gary Silver and I approached via Taseko Lakes. The climb began at the same place as the Pilling-Gerson climb of 1983 but bears directly up steep snow and ice toward the...
FALL ON SNOW, AVALANCHE, FATIGUEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Stanley PeakOn July 23, 1983, three climbers were unable to make the summit of Stanley Peak via a route on the north face and turned back around noon. During the descent of a gully on the l...
Jaonli Tragedy. A five-woman expedition from Tokyo was overwhelmed by an avalanche on September 23. The leader Yoko Kominami, Yoko Tajime, Reiko Kato and an Indian porter died.
Central Pillar of Ulamertorssuaq, What’s Bred in the Bone. Jia Condon and Rich Prohaska spent a total of 13 nights on the central pillar of Ulamertorssuaq in July. This wall is located to the right of the well-known west face which sports the all-...
Cho Oyu. Reinhold Messner, Michl Dacher and Hans Kammerlander reached the summit of Cho Oyu (8201 meters, 26,906 feet) on May 5. This was one of the fastest ascents of an 8000er ever and surely the fastest from the capital city to the summit. They...