Korean ClimbingCAPT. FREDERICK M. GOLOMB and THOMAS A. MUTCHKorea is a country few mountaineers visit by choice, but in recent years many people, climbers and others, have found themselves in this land of rice paddies, crowded towns, and mountains...
International Training Camp, Crimea, USSRJohn WatermanJOHN Griffith, Jineen Janetsky and I represented the American Alpine Club in the gathering of young mountaineers from Japan, Holland, Poland, Czechoslovakia, Hungary, East Germany, the United S...
“Mountaineering,” Encyclopaedia Britannica, 14th Edition, 1929. Vol. 15, pp. 929-932 with 2 pp. illus.This subject has been handled by the well-known authorities William Martin Conway, Arnold Lunn, and Howard Palmer. The article is divided into se...
A History Of Mountain Climbing. Roger Frison-Roche and Sylvain Jouty. Flammarion: Paris and New York, 1996. Hardback, large format, numerous color plates and photographs. 236 pages. $65.A history of mountaineering, lavishly illustrated, in a coffe...
Cordon Cachi-Palermo, first complete traverse. Cachi-Palermo is an isolated range located in the Argentine province of Salta. Its two main summits, Cachi-Libertador (6,380m) and Palermo (6,184m), are linked by a long and previously unexplored ridg...
Mount Logan. We did the standard King Col route on Mount Logan with camps in the King Trench (10,700 feet), King Col (13,500 feet), at 15,500 feet, by the Arctic Institute research camp at 17,600 feet and west of the west peak at 18,200 feet. On J...
Potomac Appalachian Trail Club. It has been an interesting and active year for the Mountaineering Section (MS). The membership has been extremely active in rock climbing, mountaineering, and conservation projects.Last year, the club supported a tr...
Fisht-Pshekhasu region, overview. This is a wild region with boundless forests, wild animals, and cave plateaus, just 50 km from the Black Sea. Fisht (2864m) is the first mountain in the Western Caucasus where there are glaciers. This region is in...
Batura Glacier Exploration. The “Old Codgers’ Expedition” visited the Hunza Valley and the Batura Glacier during June and July. During 18 days on the glacier, we explored two of its seldom-visited side canyons, the Warton and the Yoksugoz, using a...
THE INTERNATIONAL GEOPHYSICAL YEAR PROGRAMAn International Geophysical Year has been designated for 1957-1958 to carry on and expand to global proportions the concept of the two Polar Years of 1882-1883 and 1932-1933. By the end of 1954, 38 nation...
MoskenesØy Island, Ølkontind, east face, It’s all About the Numbers and Looks Can be Deceiving. On July 7 Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden, Adam Stack, and I climbed two lines on the previously unclimbed east face of 735m Ølkontind. This peak lies just...
Staunings Alper. On May 9, Colin Wornham, Tim Pettifer, John Morrison, David Ritchie, Ian Blackwood, Stephen Deykin, Andy Hume and 1 were flown from Constable Point, Greenland to the Berserkerbrae Glacier at 1170 meters (24°06'N, 24°44'44"W). In t...
WILLIAM D. HACKETT 1918–1999Bill Hackett died in Portland from complications following heart surgery. Bill had a distinguished military career, a successful business career and a lifelong career of worldwide mountaineering, skiing, travel, and exp...
High Alaska: A Historical Guide to Denali, Foraker, and Mount Hunter. Jonathan Waterman. The American Alpine Club, New York. 398 pages, including 32 in color, 74 black-and-white route photographs, 38 other photographs, ten maps, bibliography. $35....
EquipmentIt has recently come to our attention that the new rubber-soled mountaineering boots developed by E. Castiglioni and V. Bramani in 1935 have been placed on the market in Italy. Instead of the usual smooth rubber sole, the bottom is formed...
Mount McKinley, Japanese Couloir, Trash Clean-Up. Over a period of three days in June, National Park Service Mountaineering Ranger Joe Reichert and two volunteers, Jeff Evans and Max Lyon*, removed abandoned ropes and gear from the Japanese Couloi...
Lloyd George Mountains: First AscentsHenry S. Hall, Jr.ABOUT 1920 I read in P. L. Haworth’s book On the Headwaters of Peace River about the mountains located in 57° to 58° N., 124° to 125° W., and named by Haworth for David Lloyd George. At first...
Colorado, Egger’s Cliff—Poudre Canyon—On the morning of June 30, two students (25 to 30 years of age) of the Colorado State University Hikers Club were climbing on a granite face above the Poudre River. One climber John F. Wetzel, suddenly fell an...
FALL ON SNOW, EXPOSURE, PROBABLY AMSAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 9, a Spanish climber fell 4,000 feet to his death on Mount McKinley while two of his fellow countrymen clung to a frosty perch just below the summit until they were r...
Mt. Everest Jubilee; an overview of events on Everest 50 years after its first ascent. Although some of the records discussed below actually took place on the Tibetan side of the mountain, it was felt appropriate to keep this overview of pre-monso...