Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Africa, Sudan, Kassala Area, Various New Routes

Kassala area, various new routes. Lost in the Sudanese East, only a few kilometers from the border with Eritrea, a small island of a dozen granitic monoliths dominate the town of Kassala. Baboons and vultures live there. French climbers Matthieu N...


Club Activities AAJ
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club

Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. The summer of 1953 saw undergraduate and graduate members of the D. M. C. climbing in many areas. It is of interest to note that in the western United States 8 members visited the Front Range and 2, the Sangre de Cri...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Inexperience, Weather, Washington, Mount Rainier

FALL ON SNOW, INEXPERIENCE, WEATHER Washington, Mount RainierThis is a report on the triple fatality on Mount Rainier in May of 1988. It turned into a media event. Fortunately, a summary of the essential details was prepared objectively by the ran...


Book Reviews AAJ
Everest: De los Andes al Himalaya

Everest: De los Andes al Himalaya. Gastón Oyarzún. SEL Publicaciones, Santiago, 1984. 197 pages, black and white and color photographs.Reinhold Messner once said that the age of national Himalayan expeditions had come to an end. This assertion has...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, South Dakota, Black Hills

Black Hills, South Dakota. There are few more readily accessible rock climbing regions than the fantastic spires in the Black Hills. Probably only a half-mile from the Needles Highway are the jagged Cathedral Spires, many of whose summits have bee...


Book Reviews AAJ
Souvenirs from High Places, a History of Mountain Photography

Souvenirs from High Places, A History of Mountain Photography. Joe Bensen. Mountaineers Books: Seattle. 151 color and black-and-white photos. 144 pages. $35.00.Souvenirs from High Places: A History of Mountain Photography is a pleasing collection ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Off Route, Fall on Rock, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Lumpy Ridge

OFF ROUTE, FALL ON ROCKColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Lumpy RidgeMy partner and I (ages not recorded) were climbing White Whale (5.7) at Lumpy Ridge on July 15. It is considered by many as a fantastic three-pitch trad route. Neither of us...


Book Reviews AAJ
H.W. Tilman, The Eight Sailing/Mountain-Exploration Books

H.W. Tilman, The Eight Sailing/Mountain-Exploration Books by H.W. Tilman. Published simultaneously in the U.K. and the USA by Diadem Books, London and The Mountaineers, Seattle. 1967. 16 pages of color photos, maps. 995 pages. $36.Tilman must be t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Karakol Region, Pik Slonenok, North Face; Pik Karakolski, North Face; Dzhigit, North Face

Karakol region, Pik Slonenok, north face; Pik Karakolski, north face; Dzhigit, north face. The Terskey Ala-Too runs for 300km along the southern edge of Lake Issyk Kul. Its highest summits are located by the Karakol Valley. The range used to be a ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Himalaya, Zanskar, Mt. Aiseo, Northwest Face

Mt. Aiseo, northwest face. Having never climbed in the Greater Ranges before and with a fulltime job to start in September, I found the prospect of a first trip to the Himalaya hard to resist. Adriano Ferrero, Simon Lorenz, Aimone Ripa di Meana, O...


Accident Reports ANAM
Involuntary Glissade, Fall Into a Crevasse Unroped—Washington, Forbidden Peak

INVOLUNTARY GLISSADE, FALL INTO A CREVASSE UNROPED— Washington, Forbidden Peak. About 2 p.m., Sunday, July 13, 1975, Steve Firebaugh (24), John Holland (31), Mary O’Coner (25), and Joe O’Coner (24) began a descent of Forbidden Peak after having su...


Feature Article AAJ
Mount McKinley's South Face—1967

Mount McKinley’s South Face-1967Del Langbauer and Roman Laba Langbauer introduces the expedition:The story of McKinley’s South Face goes back several years. Its ridges and faces have been the scene of attempts by Americans, Italians, and Japanese....


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Karakoram, K2, Winter Attempt on the North Ridge

K2, winter attempt on the north ridge. The Winter Netia K2 Expedition (Netia is the biggest Polish TV company and during the expedition there were daily prime-time television reports) included four experienced alpinists from CIS. It departed from ...


Feature Article AAJ
Cerro Torre's North Face Putting to rest the 1959 mystery

Thirteen long years have passed since I first tried to climb Cerro Torre from the north, with Guido Bonvicini and Adriano Cavallaro. We made our first attempt during October, and we managed to reach the base of the so-called English Dihedral, clim...

| Published N/A | Author Ermanno Salvaterra


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, K2 Attempt

K2 Attempt. Our international team was led by Netherlander Wim Van Harskamp and further comprised Tim Styles, Matt Comesky, Michael White head, Bob Schelfont and me. We established Base Camp at 5100 meters after a two-week delay caused by the cust...


Feature Article AAJ
The Sirens of Mount Salisbury

The Sirens of Mount SalisburyPeter A. SpeerTHE FAIRWEATHER MOUNTAINS lie on a peninsula in southeast Alaska at one point only 15 miles wide, where over a dozen peaks tower to a height of more than two miles between the waters of Glacier Bay and th...


Feature Article AAJ
Charge of Hoax Against Robert E. Peary Examined

Charge of Hoax Against Robert E. Peary ExaminedTerris MooreEVER SINCE the return of Dr. Frederick A. Cook and Commander Robert E. Peary from the Arctic, within a week of each other in September 1909, both claiming to have reached the North Pole, p...


Notes AAJ
The Highest Mountain in the World

The Highest Mountain in the WorldA current article in the National Geographic Magazine about the Andes of Ecuador, makes the interesting observation that Cotopaxi is higher than Mount Everest. The reasoning is that the earth, not being a perfect s...


Feature Article AAJ
The Second Ascent of Nanda Devi

The Second Ascent of Nanda DeviNawang Gombu, Himalayan Mountaineering InstituteOurs was the third Indian attempt on Nanda Devi.* The first was organized in 1957 under the late Major N. D. Jayal, the first Principal of the Himalayan Mountaineering ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Beyond the Southern Lakes: The Explorations of W.G. Grave

Beyond the Southern Lakes: The Explorations of W. G. Grave, edited by his daughter Anita Crozier. 124 pages, with illustrations and sketch map. Wellington, N. Z.: A. H. and A. W. Reed, 1950. Price, 12/6.Farthest West, by A. H. Reed and A. W. Reed....