Himalchuli. The Meiji University Expedition was led by Toyozo Sugasawa in an attempt on the east ridge of Himalchuli (25,895 feet). This expedition had official permission for a reconnaissance but with permission to try for the summit if it seemed...
Broken Hand Pinnacle, Southwest Buttress. From our camp on the east side of Scott Lake, Ed Exum, Pete Koedt and I set out on September 12 at 8:00 A.M. to climb the 2500-foot buttress to whatever peak lay above. Although not completely sure what we...
Baboquivari Peak, I'itoi Dance. In April 2000 Jackie Carroll and I climbed a new route on the southwest face of Baboquivari Peak in Southern Arizona. It starts at the lowest point of the wall on a small buttress, between The Crystal Line and Times...
Zanskar Range. Our expedition climbed in the mountains due south of Leh. We ascended through a romantic gorge past Sumdo and Chogdo to the Chikorma La (17,000 feet), from which we could see our mountain group across the Mimoling Plain to the south...
Mount Russell, West Face. This route starts just right of the Rowell-Jones route, and left of a route I reported last year (A.A.J. 1986), in a left-leaning dihedral. After two pitches, I led up and left, crossing the Rowell-Jones to the base of a ...
Peaks Climbed by the India-Tibet Border Police. This continues the list begun under Garhwal: Ladakhi (17,525 feet, 5342 meters) September 9, 1970; Friendship (17,353 feet, 5289 meters) September 17, 1970; Gushu Pishu (18,725 feet, 5767 meters) Sep...
The Stump and Eye Tooth, various new routes. At the end of June, Renan Ozturk and I landed on the Ruth Glacier. This marked the first leg of our “Alakastan 2007” expedition. Renan and I had both been training for the mission by dialing in Freeride...
This climb is just north of Angel’s Landing on the west side of the canyon. Harry Frishman, Burt Redmayne and I made an abortive attempt on this prominent buttress last spring. When Mike Weis and I arrived in Zion last October, the buttress again ...
The Mountains of Snowdonia, edited by Herbert R. C. Carr and George A. Lister. 8vo., xiii, 312 pp., photographic illustrations, maps and diagrams. London, 1948: Crosby Lockwood & Son, Ltd. Price, 15/-.Another reissue of a standard work, first ...
Lhotse. A four-man Japanese expedition, led by Masaaki Fukushima, climbed Lhotse by the normal route. They had three climbing Sherpas. On May 4 leader Fukushima, Toshihide Haruki and Sherpas Nima Temba and Nima Dorje reached the summit. They used ...
Malubiting, Karakoram. The members of this year’s expedition to Malubiting (24,451 feet) were the Austrians Horst Schindlbacher, leader, Kurt Pirker, Hilmer Sturm and me and the Pole Dr. Jerzy Hajdukiewiecz as doctor. We left Graz, Austria on June...
Peineta. The Fédération Française de la Montagne et de l’Escalade chose eight young climbers of very promising talent and gave them winter training on Mont Blanc, rock climbing at Verdon, more great routes in Chamonix and finally sent four to Nepa...
Huandoy Norte. Scipio Merler led a party of five, including David Jones, Fred Douglas, Neil Humphrey and me, on an ascent of Huandoy Norte from the east side. Approaching from the Quebrada Llanganuco, we set up Base Camp at 14,600 feet. Douglas, H...
Yulong Shan Attempt. Imposing as it may appear from the Yunnan town of Lijiang, Yulong Shan (Jade Dragon Peak) presents no special technical challenge to explain its 50-year virginity and rebuff of four attempts. Only the weather guards it. So far...
FALL ON SNOW, PLACED NO PROTECTION/BELAY, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn August 2, 1991, at 0630, Judy Swales (41) and partner Randy Moss were climbing snow on Lamb’s Slide on Longs Peak. As the pair got cl...
Gemini Bridges Trail. Eight miles north of Moab and up the popular four-wheel drive/mountain bike Gemini Bridges Trail, Matt Laggis, Keith Reynolds, and Bill Russell climbed the virgin Pinky Tower at 5.10-. Left of the tower, a short route, Ewe Wh...
Chau Chau Kang Nilda. Indians Amit Chatterjee, leader, Krishnendu Chat- terjee, Samaresh Saha and Miss Sutapa Sarkar left the roadhead at Langja and arrived at Base Camp at 5060 meters on August 4. They set up a high camp at 5275 meters on August ...
Attempt of Lhotse-Lhotse Shar Traverse. Jean Troillet and I established ourselves in Everest Base Camp on August 26. It was not until September 20 that our third member, Ruedi Homberger could join us at Base Camp and that kept him from doing more ...
Ulamertorssuaq, Südtiroler Profil. It was reported the Tyroleans Christoph Hainz and Claus Obrist put up a 27-pitch line on Ulamertorssuaq (1829 m) in July called Südtiroler Profil. The line, which lies to the right of Moby Dick, went entirely fre...
Touch the Top of the World: A Blind Man’s Journey to Climb Farther Than the Eye Can See (New York: Penguin Putnam; softcover, $14) is Erik Weihenmayers memoir describing his remarkable climbs, culminating with his successful ascent of Everest.