Tennyson and the Mountain-MaidDavid Allan Robertson, Jr.To praise the “small Sweet Idyl” in Book VII of Tennyson’s Princess has been natural and customary for these last hundred years. It is evidently most uncommon, on the other hand, to venture ...
High-Altitude Pulmonary and Cerebral EdemaCHARLES S. HOUSTON, M.D."In the next few hours his breathing became progressively more congested and labored. He sounded as though he were literally drowning in his own fluid, with an almost bubbling sound...
Kulu. An Army Mountaineering Association party in Kulu was beset by last-minute political difficulties, which are becoming a sad but familiar feature of climbing in India. As a result we had to reduce the size of the party and change objectives fr...
Tetons, Wyoming: (3) Middle Teton. On 21 July 1948 a party of five from the Chicago Mountaineering Club, led by Paul Stettner and including also Mary Casebeer, John Farr, William Primak and Arthur Tielsch, left Garnet Canyon on their first day of ...
FALL ON ICE, ANCHOR AND CARABINER PROBABLY FAILEDPennsylvania, Kitnersville, The Main FlowAbout noon on December 27, JW (43) and BA (36) started on an ice climb popularly know as “The Banana” (WI4) but more correctly called “The Main Flow” in Kitn...
University Peak, South Face; Barnard Glacier, ascents and ski descents. On April 1 Paul Claus dropped Bob Kingsley, Lance McDonald, John Whedon, and me at 7,000 feet, below the south face of University Peak. We had come to the St. Elias Range to a...
Carstenz North Face, Dugundugoo North Face, Ngga Pulu, Irian Jaya (New Guinea). Irian Jaya is under Indonesian military-police control and so Hilary Collins and I first had to obtain a travel permit. We spent two weeks following a hazardous trail ...
FALL INTO CREVASSE and FALL INTO CREVASSE, UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Mount RainierThis report tells of two accidents which occurred within the same climbing party at 3300 meters on their descent of Mount Rainier.A part...
MARJORIE HURD 1886-1977 It was on a train to the White Mountains for a rock-climbing week end at Pinkham Notch some fifty years ago that I first got to know and appreciate Marjorie Hurd’s interest in climbing, white-water canoeing and other outdo...
Vocation Alpine, by Armand Charlet. 206 pages, with 13 illustrations and a preface by Dr. Azéma. Neuchâtel and Paris: VictorAttinger, 1949. Price, 450 francs.Armand Charlet will go down in mountaineering history as the most brilliant guide the val...
North Howser Tower, The Real Mescalito. In August, Crosby Johnston and I connected in the East Creek Basin. My schedule gave us only two days—the time it takes most parties just to make the approach and exit. We knew we’d have to light a fire unde...
FALL ON ROCK—INADEQUATE BELAY (INCLUDING NO KNOT IN THE END OF THE CLIMBING ROPE), NO HARD HATCalifornia, Tahquitz Rock, WhodunitOn May 23, my partner and I had just arrived at the base of Whodunit (5.9) about 9:00 a.m. A female belayer (c. 25) wa...
Yugoslav Climbs in the Yazgulem Glacier Area, Pamir. Our group of 14 climbed in the central Pamir from the same camp as Polish, Czechoslovakian and Soviet climbers during the second half of July and the beginning of August. In spite of relatively ...
Sierra Club. The regular summer outings of the Sierra Club in the Sierra Nevada gave opportunity for a great deal of relatively easy climbing at elevations from 12,000 to 14,496 ft. The Base Camp spent four weeks beneath the 14,000-ft. peaks seven...
The Cumbres de Monterrey “la Huasteca” National Park (la Huasteca refers to the region around the Gulf of México) is located in the metropolitan area of the city of Santa Catarina in the state of Nuevo León. Once in the park you have to follow the...
Remillard Group, Selkirks. Remillard Peak, 11.5 miles northwest of Mount Sanford is the central peak of a southwest wing of the Windy Group. The Remillard Group surrounds upper Windy Creek. The map sections containing these peaks are 82 M/9E and 8...
AVALANCHEAlaska, Mount HunterOn May 15, 1987, the two-man “Over-the-Kahiltna Gang” expedition registered at the Talkeetna Ranger Station for a climb of the west ridge of Mount Hunter. Expedition members were Ben Benson (29) and Frank Jenkins (37),...
Chamlang East. Our Netherlands women’s expedition was composed of Dr. Annet Boom, Myra de Rooy, Janka van Leeuwen, Gerda de Groene, Marjolein Meere and me as leader. Two Sherpas helped us to carry loads to Camp I. Base Camp at 4850 meters was esta...
RAPPEL ERROR-ROPES UNEVEN, FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Arch RockOn June 9, Megan Polk, (27) and Brian O’Day hiked up to Anticipation, a short 5.11b climb at Arch Rock. They climbed the initial 5.9 pitch (about 50 feet) to a sma...
Nevado Pucahirca Norte I, The Power of Perspective.In August 1979 Jack Miller organized the first commercial trek from the village of Huilca, on the western slopes of the northern Cordillera Blanca, up the Quebrada Alpamayo and over the main divid...