Kwangde Nup (6,035m), northeast face, Between Sun and Shadow (to 5,910m). From October 19 to 21 Martin Klestinec and I climbed a new line on the northeast face of Kwangde Nup, immediately right of the spur followed in 1989 by Alan Kearney, solo. W...
Guest of the Soviets, by Joyce Dunsheath. London: Constable & Co., Ltd. 1959. 183 pages, illus. Price 18s.This book is chiefly interesting to the reviewer, who himself visited the Soviet Union and the Caucasus in 1930, for the changes that hav...
The Catenary Ridge of LoganDonald Schmechel and James Given, Yale Mountaineering ClubOF THE big Alaskan and Yukon peaks, Mount Logan offers the largest number of unclimbed routes. Only four of the many route possibilities on Logan had been done be...
St. Elias’ East RidgeMalcolm MooreWE took off from Yakutat in a Cessna 180 and climbed through broken clouds, heading for Mount St. Elias. Four of us were squeezed in with packs, ropes, food, hardware, and as we droned toward the incredible St. El...
Memphis Mountaineers. Despite the lack of local climbing resources, the Memphis Mountaineers enjoyed a productive year. The 1991 membership of 51 included 33 regular members residing in the Memphis, Tennessee, area, six honorary members and 12 ass...
Mount Hubbard, Attempt on West Ridge. A five-man Italian expedition unsuccessfully attempted to climb the west ridge of Mount Hubbard, which rises almost 8000 feet to the summit of the peak. After being delayed by weather, they were flown from Gul...
In autumn, Peter Ackroyd, Sam McClary, and I hoped to make the first ascent of Tsartse on the east side of Hidden Valley, ca 10km northeast of Dhaulagiri. This peak is clearly visible from the Muktinath-Jomsom trail. Despite close proximity to the...
FALL ON ICE—Washington, Mt. Rainier. On September 7, Ann Wild (20) was guiding four people up Mt. Rainier. They were on the Ingraham Glacier around the 13,000-foot level. According to witnesses in the guided party ahead of this one, the second per...
SLIP ON SNOW Alaska, Mt. McKinleySang-Don Ko (30), Ii-Kyo Lee (24), Hun-Kyu Park (30), and Un-Young Kim (45) were members of the Korean Mount McKinley Expedition. Before the start of their climb they joined forces with Harry Maringas and Yung Chu ...
N. Wing of the Columbia Group. This note calls attention to a recently issued reedition (dated 1947) of the Jasper Park South Sheet (1936 : 3 mi. to 1 in.), on which the central area, blank in the 1942 reprint, has been completed in contours. No n...
(3) Fresh field CroupWatershed Peak North of Pangman Peak, 9600 ft. This is the highest point between Pangman Peak: and Bush pass. First ascent, July 5. E. Cromwell, J. M. Thorington, D. Duncan, A. Megrew, P. Kaufmann. From Freshfield tongue by wa...
FALL ON ICE/SNOW, UNROPED, POOR ROUTE CHOICE, HASTEAlberta, Columbia Icefield, Mount AthabascaOn August 29 at 0500, F.W. (43), S.C. (34), and U.T. (37) set out to climb the North Face of Mount Athabasca. They reached the summit at 1730 and started...
Chearoco and Quelluani. Our expedition was composed of 24 people. To avoid being shut up in Base Camp to acclimatize, we spent five days at 10,000 feet in Cuzco before arriving at La Paz. There we were amazed to find that some of the boxes which w...
Apolobamba Area, Various Ascents. The first team out during the 1997 season was the Walsall expedition of Dean Wiggin, Eamonn Flood and Yossi Brain (U.K.), who climbed in the Katantica group north of the Pelechuco Valley. The torture of the 18-hou...
Americans on Everest. The official account of the ascent led by Norman G. Dyhrenfurth. By James Ramsey Ullman and Other Members of the Expedition. Philadelphia and New York: J. B. Lippincott Co., 1964. 429 pages, with a glossary. 67 photographs in...
Austrian HolidaySoft laughter rings above the crusted snow, Light footsteps hurry past.—A. C. Benson.1.AS I look from the hotel window at Kufstein, I am delighted by the prospect. Below me on a terrace tables have been placed, shaded by gay umbrel...
The Sacred HimalayaJohan ReinhardHIMALAYAN EXPEDITION accounts often mention a fascination with the local people and their culture. Many climbers have felt that their experiences going to and from the mountains were more meaningful than those on t...
Alpine Lakes Region. We enjoyed twelve days of exploring the Alpine Lakes region. Our approach was from Elk Heart Park through Bald Mountain Basin. Instead of using Angel Pass, we climbed northwest from the basin up a canyon and crossed the divide...
Ketil, West Face. Jon Allen, Doug Byerly, Jim Funsten and Mike Wood visited the spectacular granite climbing mecca of Greenland’s southern fjord country in July. European climbers have climbed fairly extensively in the region in the past 20 years ...
Annapurna IV. A South Korean expedition was led by Chun Byung- Koo. Climbing the northwest ridge of Annapurna IV (24,688 feet), on April 23 Dong Ok-Yu, Sirdar Pasang Norbu Sherpa and Pemba Sherpa climbed to the summit from Camp IV at 21,650 feet.M...