FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, NO HARD HATAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Tunnel MountainOn August 18, 1982, two brothers (22 and 14) from Calgary were attempting the Gooseberry Route (5.7) on Tunnel Mountain. The older one, who was leading, mis...
Dragontail Peak, Northwest Face, Stuart Range. On October 11, Alan Kearney and I climbed a new route on the northwest face of Dragontail via the prominent buttress between Serpentine Arête and the Boving route. We began in the huge corner system j...
Jongsang. This peak, which lies on or near the junction of Sikkim, Nepal, and Tibet, was climbed on June 11 by a 44-man team of the Eastern Command of the Indian Army. A first group under the leader, Captain Asok Pretap Singh reached the summit (7...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF NUTWyoming, TetonsOn August 24, 1982, Peter Miller (30) and Krag Unsoeld (26) were climbing the Guide’s Wall. Around 1300, Unsoeld was leading the “double cracks” pitch. As he climbed the pitch, he placed two nuts. He ran ...
Austrian Makalu Attempt. This five-man Austrian expedition led by Wilfried Studer ended with a permit for the west-pillar route on Makalu. They began climbing the normal northwest route for acclimatization before tackling the pillar. A French-Amer...
BAT BITENorth Carolina, Green CoveOn September 13, 1984, Edwina Wicker (20) was doing a top roped climb with her Outward Bound group when she was bitten on her middle finger by a bat. The bat, who was in a crack that several other climbers used, w...
Mount Logan and Mount Kennedy, Icefield Ranges. A number of expeditions were on Mount Logan in 1989. Coloradans Peter Smith, JoAnn Metzler, Timothy Lofgren, Larz Onsrud and Ed Cupp were on the mountain in April and three of them reached the summit...
Cerro Agua Negra, 1990. A very fine route, the southeast ridge of Cerro Agua Negra (5484 meters, 17,991 feet), near the international pass of the same name, had been attempted four times in the 1960s. Climbing alone, Roberto Pereira of San Juan ma...
Gasherbrum II, Ski Descent of South Face. After the other members of our expedition had to return to France, Pierre Mure-Ravaud and I reached the summit of Gasherbrum II on July 31 by the normal route. Also on the summit that day were members of a...
Fourteen-Hour Pinnacle. Jake Breitenbach and Sterling Neale made the first ascent on August 3 of this pinnacle which lies west of Ayres Crag # 5 and opposite the entrance to Valhalla Canyon. They ascended the south ridge. The first of three overha...
FALL ON AVALANCHE DEBRIS, FATIGUEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount RundleOn March 10, 1990, after completing ice climbs of Professor’s Gully and Under the Volcano, Greg G. was descending the slopes of Mount Rundle, which are broken by cliff bands. H...
Kabru. J. W. R. Kempe and G. C. G. Lewis in May ascended Kabru (24,075 ft.) from the northwest on the Nepalese side. This is a new route, since C. R. Cooke’s 1935 route led up from the Rathong Glacier in Sikkim.
Vasiliki Tower, South Face. Al Murdoch and Ed Cooper made this ascent in early June, following a direct line to the summit from the notch next to Burgundy Spire. Several hundred feet of enjoyable class 4 climbing were encountered. The last lead pr...
Annapurna East. (Señor Anglada explains that this is a distinct summit (26,333 feet) just east of Annapurna I. The Spaniards climbed a new route, east of that climbed by the French.) Emilio Civis and Manuel Martín crossed India with two trucks and...
New Routes on Juniper Mountain, Red Rock Canyon, Charleston Range. Two interesting climbs were done on Juniper Mountain. Blackjack Buttress, a sharp prow facing the desert to the east, was climbed to its mid-pinnacle section on February 1 and 2 (w...
Kanjut Sar. An Italian expedition under the leadership of Guido Monzino climbed Kanjut Sar (25,460 feet) by its southern side. This peak rises above a tributary of the Hispar Glacier. Eight guides from Valtournache, Jean Bich, Pierino and Pacifico...
El Capitan, Mirage. In September Jim Pettigrew, Kim Schmitz and I climbed a new route on the west face of El Capitan. The route lies between the West Face route and the Lurking Fear route. The apparently blank lower face required only 33 holes, th...
MacRobert’s Reply. Lady MacRobert, daughter of Dr. and Mrs. Workman of Himalayan fame, has donated a Stirling bomber to the British government in memory of her three sons, who lost their lives in air force action.
AVALANCHE, FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount DennisOn March 14, a party of three were climbing Guiness Gully (III, 4), a moderate ice route. The leader had completed the second pitch when a wet avalanche ca...
Pingora, East Face. Early on August 13 Harry Daley and I worked our way up the short stretch of talus below the east face of Pingora (11,884 feet). We walked up a series of broad, grassy ledges, bearing left and began climbing unroped up the easy ...