Mount Baker, Northeast Face. On June 22 Fred Beckey and Don Claunch started from Kulshan Cabin, climbed to Heliotrope Ridge and crossed the Coleman Glacier through several crevasse patterns to the north ridge. Staying below the ridge, we headed ea...
Mount Atter and Other Peaks, Sukkertoppen Icecap, West Greenland. Our nine-man expedition led by Jordi Colomer arrived on July 18 at Søndre Stromfjord. The next day we flew to Sukkertoppen by helicopter. It was difficult to rent a boat to Evigheds...
FALLING ROCK, PARTY SEPARATED–CLIMBING ALONE, EXCEEDING ABILITIESOregon, North SisterOn July 10, three people, including Matt Gorman, were climbing the North Sister. The terrain became more technical than Mr. Gorman’s climbing com-panions were com...
Artesonraju, Southeast Face, and Tocllaraju, Northwest Ridge, Descents. In May and June, Ptor Spricenieks, John Griber, Jason Schutz, Kris Erickson and I teamed up with film-makers Rob DesLauries and Frederick Jacobi and local guide Koky Castaneda...
Mercedario, South Face. An Italian expedition originally had the west face of Mercedario as its objective. They were Alessandro Angelini, Giuseppe Angelotti, Carlo Barbolini, Gianluca Benedetti, Fabrizio Convalle, Bruno Nicolini, Giancarlo Polacci...
South Walsh, first ascent; Mt. Walsh, Southeast Ridge; other ascents. On May 28 Graham Rowbotham and I reached the pointed summit of South Walsh (4,223m). This was the highest unclimbed peak in the St. Elias range and, as claimed in AAJ 2006 (p. 1...
Minor peaks: Rockchuck Peak, two ascents ; Cloudveil Dome, Disappointment Peak, Storm Point Symmetry Spire, Prospectors Mountain, Veiled Peak, and Eagles Rest each one ascent. The three peaks last mentioned, climbed by Phil Smith and various compa...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Symmetry Spire. On 8 August Sheldon Smith (18) and James Erickson (18) were climbing on Symmetry Spire. According to Smith, he slipped on the snow patch in Symmetry Couloir about 20 feet above the bottom. He was...
Ski traverse from Knud Rasmussens Land, through the Watkins Mountains and Gronau Nunatakker, to Paul Stern Land; various first ascents, new routes, and repeats. During April and May Dominik Rind and I made six first ascents in the Gronau Nunatakke...
Satopanth. Three Japanese made Base Camp at Nandanban on September 13, Advance Base at 16,750 feet, Camps I and II at 19,300 and 21,325 feet, and climbed to the summit via the north ridge on September 30. They were Haruo Takahashi, Hisao Hara and ...
Tukche. Our expedition was composed of Kim Hak-Young, Lim Hea-Hoon, Yoon Hong-Kun, Jung Chang-Hyuk, Lee Dong-Hwan, Heo Young-Ho and me as leader. On March 2 we climbed to Dhampus Pass (5100 meters) and then descended to Hidden Valley where we esta...
Lawinen, by Walter Flaig. 8 vo. ; 173 pages, maps and illustra- trations. F. U. Brockhaus, Leipzig, 1935.Snow Structure and Ski Fields, by G. Seligman. 8 vo. ; x + 555 pages, diagrams and illustrations, bibliography and index. Macmillan and Compan...
Yanawaca, attempt. Last May two Mexican friends, Carlos Bazua Morales and Emiliano Villanueva Rabotnikof, and I traveled to the Cordillera Blanca with the idea of opening a new route on the wall known as Yanawaka (also called Peña Negra, ca 4,900m...
Serenity Spire and Other Climbs, Kichatna Mountains. Jeff Hollenbaugh* and I were in the Kichatna Mountains from June 23 to July 15. We were landed on the Tatina Glacier, where we set up Base Camp. The day we arrived we climbed what we believe is ...
Mount Everest, Activity in the Pre-Monsoon Season. The pre-monsoon season saw more people reach the top of Everest than ever before in a single season, and the total number of ascents ever made has now passed the 1,000 mark. Altogether 118 people ...
Thalay Sagar. Our expedition made the fifth ascent of Thalay Sagar, the second by the first-ascent route on the northwest couloir and ridge made in 1979 by the Anglo-American party led by John Thackray. The other three ascents have been by the nor...
A.A.C., Blue Ridge Section. The Section’s hard work in acting as host for the Club’s 1980 Annual Meeting and Dinner resulted in the blessings of real financial solvency and the creation of a nucleus of dedicated leaders willing to explore possible...
Makalu Attempt. Belgian climbers led by Jos Dewint reached 7700 meters on the northwest side of Makalu on April 25 before having to give up the attempt.Elizabeth Hawley
Blamann, Ultima Thule, first free ascent. After my previous ascent of Ultima Thule, I had an urge to free it. When Oscar Alexandersson and I stood at the base of the wall in showery weather and a temperature of 4°C, we realized our attempt might e...
Everest Attempt by a Nepalese Woman. A group of ten Nepalese, four Frenchmen and a Belgian was led by Mrs. Pasang Lhamu Sherpa, the first Nepalese woman to lead a mountaineering venture. (Many of her leadership duties were performed by her husband...