Baintha Brakk (Ogre) Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Herbert Jans, Reiner Pickl, Christoph Kruis, Christoph Krah, Kalus-Peter Popall and me. We hoped to make the first ascent of Baintha Brakk from the Choktoi Glacier. Base Camp was at 4650...
Great Trango (6,257m), northwest face attempt. Four mountaineers from the Ukraine, Alexander Lavrinenko, Vladimir Mogila, Vitali Yarichveski, and Alexey Zhilin planned to try a new route up the huge northwest face of Great Trango left of the exist...
Noshaq. Of our group of nine, six reached the summit of Noshaq in July by the normal route: Ruth Steinmann, Swiss; Walter Knezicek and I, Austrians; Udo Daigger and Ernst Henniger, Germans; and Bernard Ruby, French.Erich Vanis, Österreichischer Al...
Ganesh III Attempt. Kim Jong-Min led a group of eight South Koreans who attempted to climb the northeast spur to the north face of Ganesh III (7110 meters, 23,327 feet). On April 20, they reached a high point of 6820 meters.Elizabeth Hawley
Cerro Torre Attempt from the South. Englishman Andy Parkin and Frenchman François Marsigny hoped to climb Cerro Torre by a new route by reaching the Collado de Esperanza (Col of Hope) between Cerro Torre and Adela Norte from the south side and the...
M-10 Ascent and Mulkila and M-5 Attempts. A team from Bombay led by Dhiren Pania climbed M-10 (5730 meters, 18,800 feet), which rises above the Milang Glacier. Vinit Rao and Tikam Ram Thakur reached the summit on September 1. Nandu Joshi and Arti ...
Victorious Mountaineer. A memoir of Harry Peirce Nichols, 1850-1940, by W. Bertrand Stevens. 8vo., 78 pages with 7 wood cuts. Louisville: The Cloister Press, 1943. Price $1.00.This attractive brochure, written by Bishop W. B. Stevens, gives a succ...
SNOWFALL RECORDThe value of these studies on glaciers in California is greatly enhanced by the fact that systematic measurements of snowfall are now made periodically by the California Cooperative Snow Surveys. These show that in 1932 the snowfall...
One of the most remarkable pre-monsoon ascents was the new route on the southeast face of Cho Oyu by Boris Dedeshko and Denis Urubko. The Kazakhs climbed the face to the left of the 1985 Polish Southeast Pillar, joining it at ca 8,000m. Climbing a...
DARKNESS, STRANDED, RAPPEL ERROR—ROPE JAMMEDColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Red Garden WallOn February 18, two climbers (one 24) became stranded when darkness fell and their rappel rope jammed on Red Garden Wall. They made a fire to keep war...
Cho Oyu, Oiarzabal record. In the post monsoon of 2003 Cho Oyu was attempted by 36 teams, ranging in size from one to 24 members. The mountain can expect even more teams in the autumn of 2004 to mark the 50th anniversary of its first ascent on Oct...
Shisha Pangma, Southwest Face, 1991. A South Korean expedition led by Oh In-Hwan repeated the British line on the southwest face of Shisha Pangma. The main summit was reached on October 8, 1991 by Kim Chang-Seon (his fourth 8000er) and Kim Jae-Soo...
Crooked Thumb, West Ridge, Tetons. Robert Irvine and Tom Kimbrough climbed this distinct ridge on July 28 in nine pitches plus considerable scrambling. From the drainage separating this ridge from the prominent northwest ridge of Teewinot, a consi...
Our four-person, primarily American party planned to attempt Gyalzen (6,151m) on the Tibetan border. We were not successful, partially due to bad weather but more because of confusion as to identity of the peak. Gyalzen stands close to Leonpo Gang...
Teewinot, Mt. Owen, Grand Teton, Enchainment. Fellow Exum guide Hans Johnstone and I took advantage of a rare shared day off in August to finally bag three routes we had never been on by enchaining the North Face of Teewinot, the North Ridge of Mt...
Lhotse Shar Attempt. A Basque expedition from Spain failed in the pre-monsoon period to climb a new route on Lhotse Shar, a south ridge to the southeast face. They made two camps and two bivouacs above Base Camp. The leader, Xabier Erro, fell ill ...
Aoraki Mount Cook and Westland, summary. The west side of the Divide was relatively quiet this past year, with only two new routes reported. In the summer Craig Cardie and Allan Uren climbed an obvious and reportedly good-quality route to the righ...
Peaks West of Urus Oeste. We climbed in the Cordillera Blanca from June 19 to August 1. We helped in the rescue of a serious climbing accident of the Swiss. A rope-team fell some 1500 feet from just below the summit of Hua- scarán Norte. One climb...
The Sentinel, Farmer Brown. This route (V 5.10+ A3+), by Nate Brown and Joe French, climbs a thin crack system on the pink buttress right of the Streaked Wall waterfall. Approach as for the Streaked Wall. Climb seven pitches of mixed free and aid,...
Mount Baker, Northeast Face. On June 22 Fred Beckey and Don Claunch started from Kulshan Cabin, climbed to Heliotrope Ridge and crossed the Coleman Glacier through several crevasse patterns to the north ridge. Staying below the ridge, we headed ea...