RAPPEL ERROR-MISUSE OF GRIGRIBaffin Island, Stewart ValleyOn April 24, Drew Wilson, Kyle Dempster, Grover Shipman, Ross Cowan, and I (Pete Dronkers) left Ottawa for Baffin Island to make a first ascent in Stewart Valley. I knew of only four routes...
Eastern Fjords, ascents, descents, and exploration. From mid-April to mid-May, Brad Barlage and I explored the ski mountaineering potential of Baffin’s legendary eastern fjords. It was a highly experimental trip, as we were going into an area that...
• The American Alpine Club Research Fund was established in 1945 to promote scientific, literary, educational, or historical research and publication related to mountaineering, geology, or geography. The members appointed to the Research Committee...
Mt. Everest: A new English expedition to climb this mountain is now under way. Led by H. Ruttledge, the expedition is composed of : C. G. Crawford, Captain E. St J. Birnie, Major Hugh Boustead. P. Wyn-Harris, Dr. C. R. Greene, Dr. W. W. McLean, J....
The Puma’s Claw, by Simon Clark. Boston: Little, Brown & Co., 1959. 223 pages; 22 photographs; 3 sketch maps; 1 diagram. Price $4.95.This is a light-hearted, well-written account of the first ascent of Pumasillo (20,490 feet) sixty airline mil...
The View from the Edge: Life and Landscapes of Beverly Johnson. Gabriela Zim. Mountain N’Air Books, La Crescenta, California, 1996. 188 pages, black-and-white photographs. $17.00.In capturing the historical context and significance of Bev Johnson ...
On 21 August, Gaylord Campbell (26) and Lorraine Hough (21) were climbing on the North Face of the Grand. According to Campbell, he was leading a pitch about 20 feet above his belayer when some large falling rocks struck him, breaking his leg and ...
Everest Tragedy. A 39-man Indian Army expedition was to have been led by Colonel Prem Chand, who broke his arm shortly before the expedition left for Nepal and was replaced by Brigadier Jagjit Singh. The expedition planned to make a two-pronged at...
GeographicalDistricts1951-20002001Number of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta43112694218240British Columbia273106608305Yukon Territory332673000Ontario361065102Quebec30763000East Arctic722...
The Ascent of Mount HayesPhotographs by the authorBradford WashburnTHE Hayes Range consists of a narrow wedge of rugged peaks some 60 miles in length stretching eastward from the head of the Yanert River to the famous Black Rapids in the upper val...
Rondoy, attempt to summit ridge cornices. Aritza Monasterio (Basque-Peruvian) and I (Basque) made this ascent in continuous style (30 hours bivouac-to-bivouac) on June 26. [Editor’s note: Saez de Urabain considers it a new route, calling it Bagabi...
Turner’s Aig. du Dru. The wash-drawing in violet and sepia, used as the frontispiece of this issue, was secured when the Anderson collection of Turner’s work was dispersed in New York in 1941. It measures 12 × 19 inches and was probably done when ...
Mlema 3, African Light. In July, Alard Hüfner and I headed up to northern Mozambique with one goal in mind: to climb the 700-meter east face of Mlema 3. After organizing with the local administrator and secretario, we pitched our tent under a mang...
Cerro Castillo, East Face. Joan Sole (Santa Oliva, Spain) and I were inspired upon seeing the face from the Cuesta del Diablo switchbacks that descend into the Villa Cerro Castillo Valley (elev. 400m), Chile, when traveling south from Coyhaique. W...
WE FINALLY departed Pokhara on August 25. Our planned eight-day trek went well until we reached Machapuchare Camp at 11,500 feet on September 1. From here the going was a bit sticky, requiring two crossings of the icy, raging Modi Khola, plus a...
The Moose’s ToothWalter Welsch, Deutscher Alpenverein Translated by H. Adams CarterOn May 5 we four members of the Section Bayerland left Munich on our long trip. Arnold Hasenkopf, Klaus Bierl, Alfons Reichegger and I were headed for the mountains...
The Big Wall, The AA Crack. After all the usual hassles of overweight and oversized baggage, and of making connections on the long trip from Yosemite, Donny Alexander and I arrived in the Cordillera Quimsa Cruz in June, just as the wet season was ...
FALLING ROCK, HAUL BAGS, AND CLIMBERS California, Yosemite ValleyOn June 16, 1988, a climber, Craig Herzog, called dispatch from Curry Security Office and reported that two haul bags followed by an object that “looked kind of like a body” came dow...
Makalu Traverse Attempt and Kangchungtse Attempt via West Face. Our expedition was composed of Mike Woolridge, leader, Rob Collister, Andy Fanshawe, Lindsay Griffin, Dr. Gill Irvine, Hamish Irvine and me, all British, and American Steve Sustad. We...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTIONMaine, Acadia National Park, Champlain MountainThe following is derived from interviews with the climbers at the accident scene and an interview with the injured climber after the in...