Everest, overcrowding on the North Ridge. Climbers on the Tibetan side had similar complaints to those on the Nepal side. A Swiss expedition leader said that when he and his group on their way to the top reached 8,600m (28,200 feet), near the bott...
Shisha Pangma Central from the North, Post-Monsoon. Several Spanish groups under the overall leadership of Toni Vives, but acting more or less independently, climbed Shisha Pangma Central by the normal route. On September 27, Magda Nos climbed to ...
Mountain Climbing Guide to the Grand Tetons, by Henry Coulter and Merrill F. McLane. 66 pages, with a map and 13 sketches. Hanover, N. H.: Dartmouth Mountaineering Club, 1947. $2.00.Since the publication of Fritiof Fryxell’s excellent work on the ...
After much negotiation with the CTMA, Kazuya Hiraide and I secured a permit to climb Gaurishankar in the autumn. Still we had a difficult time getting to the northeast side of this mountain. Our approach was up the Rongshar and Menlung valleys, bu...
Number ofTotalAccidents ReportedPersons InvolvedInjuredFatalitiesUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN19511522113195231351713195324271212195431413181955343928619564672541319574553281819583239231119594225623101921960474641237819419614996114451014419627119016401...
Physiological and Neuropsychological Characteristics of World-Class Extreme-Altitude ClimbersOswald Oelz and Marianne Regard, Universitätsspital, ZürichON MAY 8, 1978, Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler demonstrated that altitudes higher than 8500...
Mt. Huntington, Harvard Route, Ascent, and Possible New Variation. On May 8-10, Joe Puryear and I climbed the Harvard Route on Mt. Huntington’s west face. To begin the route, we climbed a possible minor variation on the west face that most likely ...
GeographicalDistricts1951-771978NumberofAccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumberofAccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta692511412613British Columbia10640202344Yukon Territory101928000Ontario8312102Quebec7221000East Arctic205100West Arct...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, GLISSADING INSTEAD OF WALKING, UNROPEDWashington, Mount Rainier, Inter GlacierOn August 3, Chris Kapaun was glissading unroped down the Inter Glacier and fell into a crevasse. His partner, Troy Hendrickson witnessed the fall an...
Shuangqiao Gou, first ascents of“Pakla Shan,” “Shuangqiao Peak,” and the northwest face of Tan Shan. The Croatian Mountaineering Federation, to celebrate its 130th anniversary, organized a small expedition to Siguniang National Park. There were fo...
RAPPEL ERROR – UNEVEN ROPE ENDS, FALL ON ROCKHigh Eagle Dome, Shuteye Ridge, CaliforniaOn October 31, after setting up a toprope, I (45) tossed down it down and rappelled. About two thirds of the way down the route, I saw one taped end of the rope...
ROSAMOND NILES1881-1958The first time I met Rosamond Niles was in 1928 when we both were attending an exhibit in New York of the magnificent paintings by the famous Russian artist, Ivan F. Choultse. Absorbed in our admiration of his mountains, glo...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION, INEXPERIENCE, INADEQUATE FOODCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, MescalitoOn September 24, on the sixth day out, Caroline Brugvin (24) took a lead fall on the 20th pitch of the Mescalito rock climbing route on El Cap...
Minimal ImpactStephen PorcellaAFTER AN EXHAUSTING FULL-DAY APPROACH HIKE, 1500 feet of talus and class-3 wet-rock scrambling, we threw down our gear and made camp amongst a pile of boulders at the base of a large rock wall. Many people had attempt...
Left Mary, The Insider. The Insider (IV+ 5.10 A1), established by Bryan Bird and me in 2001, entails nine pitches on the southeast face, in a prominent crack system running parallel to and left of the Gentleman’s Agreement. The upper half of the r...
Wind Rivers, various ascents. In the Cirque of the Towers, the south face of Wolf’s Head—specifically the striking crack left of the Beckey South Face route, splitting the upper half of the face and leading up to Darth Vader tower—recently caught ...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, PROTECTION (TOOLS) PULLED OUTNew Brunswick, The QuarryDescription: On March 1, three experienced climbers set out for a day of ice climbing at a climbing area known as the Quarry in New Brunswick. G.P., the lead...
BadlandsAt the mercy of the Torre godby Conrad AnkerNew Year’s Eve. Steve and I pace between the hut and the bench. The hut is sanctuary; the bench opens up to the mountain. What is the weather doing? Are the clouds coming from the south? Is the i...
Coffee Spire, first ascent, Greater Reward. On June 13 Paul Roderick, of Talkeetna Air Taxi, landed Cody Arnold and me, both of Anchorage, at 5,600' on the northwest fork of the Coffee Glacier, a.k.a. Middle Coffee Glacier, just east of the Ruth G...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. 1994 was a busy and eventful year for the Section. As new members join, our Section’s traditional activities have been expanding to accommodate the increase in local membership. The spring section meeting was followe...