P 12,360 and Others, Mount Hayes Group. The Kansai University expedition was composed of Yoshimi Miyamoto, Hajime Naemura, Hiroshi Anzawa, Shigefumi Matsumoto and me as leader. Three of us left Paxson for Mount Hayes on June 16 by plane, but the p...
On May 2 Paul Roderick of Talkeetna Air Taxi landed Cody Arnold, Peter Haeussler, and I, all from Anchorage, at 5,600' on the northwest fork of the Coffee Glacier. Over the next four days we made an attempt on the west ridge of Broken Tooth. Start...
A.A.C., Cascade Section. Membership in the Section increased to over 100 members with the addition of several new climbers to the roster. Most members were active throughout the summer both within the United States and elsewhere. Trips were made t...
Huascarán Norte, Canine Ascent. From August 27 to 30, José Ignacio Ramírez and I ascended Huascarán Norte via the Garganta. Two dogs from Musho accompanied us during the whole ascent and got to the summit with us on the 29th. It was surprising to ...
Mir Samir. Two expeditions, Kohtaro Ohyama, leader, Yatuka Arita, Munechika Sawada, Yasumasa Ueno, Hironari Hirabayashi and Keizo Kohno of Meijo University and Shigeo Handa, leader, Minoru Hashimoto, Muto, Ishizuka and Otsuki of the Chukyo Alpine ...
Peak Nazarbaev, Mass Ascent. On July 6, our party of about 300 made the first ascent of Peak Nazarbaev (4376m) in the Zailiysky Alatau range above the city of Almaty. Peak Nazarbaev had not been climbed because it had not existed prior to July 6, ...
Fitz Roy, First Winter Ascent. Gabriel Ruiz, Eduardo Brenner and I made the first winter ascent of Fitz Roy, climbing it by the Supercouloir. Starting from the Piedra del Fraile, we spent the night of July 25 in a tent 100 meters below the couloir...
Kugssuatsiaq, South Greenland. The Leicester Polytechnic Students’ Greenland Expedition arrived in Nanortalik on July 11, travelling by air from Glasgow and by coastal ferry from Narssarsuaq. On July 19 we sailed overnight by fishing boat to the v...
Gangotri Region. An unnamed and unclimbed peak of 19,200 feet in the Gangotri region was climbed by Dr. G.R. Patwardhan, Kripal Singh, Sr., Kripal Singh, Jr., and Padam Dutta on May 26. They had established Base Camp on May 23 on the left bank of ...
Baruntse Attempt. An international expedition failed to climb Baruntse by its southeast ridge. On May 10 and 13 Australians Kenneth Baldwin, leader John Finnigan, Theodore Hooy, Peter Land and Will Steffen, American Peter Hodge, and Nepalese Ongch...
FALL ON SNOW—UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS Colorado, Indian Peaks WildernessOn June 12, Mark Oveson (36) was traversing the snowfields between North Arapaho Peak and “Deshawa Peak” (point 12,800’ on the USGS map) when he slipped. H...
Cerro El Cóndor and Cerro Vallecitos, exploration and ascents. In January 1998 I directed an expedition to the high barren zone of the Catamarca province, in the northern Argentine Andes. We opened trail in virgin territory with a Ford XLT F-100. ...
FALLING ROCK LEDGE, WEATHER Nevada, Red RocksThis is a report from Gary Bocardc (37), director of a guide service in Alaska, who was climbing on March 18, 1987, between sessions at the annual Ski Industries America trade show in Las Vegas:This was...
Annapurna South, Southeast Face and East Ridge. Our Colorado Outward Bound School expedition, composed of Jess Bell, Brown Cannon, Jr., Dr. Peter Brumbaugh, Dr. Dave Weaver, Ken Talmage, Peter Athans and me, walked to the Annapurna Sanctuary from ...
Acopán Tepui, Unate Arête (a.k.a. Racquel Welsh Arête). Louise Thomas, Dave Turnball, Steve Mayers, and I traveled from St. Elena after meeting up with Alfredo Rangel, a local climber who had climbed at Acopán with John and Anne Arran. After flyin...
Diamond, Longs Peak. In late May Dan McClure and I finished a previously attempted new route to the right of the Westbay-Dunn route. One bolt was placed. The climb was stretched over a period of four days, due to a two-day storm which provided sub...
Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Number of Persons InvolvedInjuredKilledYearUSA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.19511421103 —1952293217131953242714121954324231819553439266195646715113195745532818195832382211195942—256— 228— 019— 2196047— 463 — 1235— ...
McGill Outing Club. The McGill Outing Club in 1972 enjoyed another very active year of rock climbing and mountaineering both within and outside of La Belle Province. The annual Fall Climbing School was well attended with over 50 new participants t...
On July 13, 1993, Lorna Corson and I were landed at Circle Lake in the Arrigetch Peaks. After hiking two loads up Arrigetch Creek, we climbed a 5.7 route on the south face of Elephant’s Tooth on July 17. On July 20, we climbed what is probably a n...
FALL ON ICE, EQUIPMENT FAILURE, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, ROPED BUT NOT BELAYED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount AndromedaOn October 7, 1991, Andrew H. and Janies H. climbed the east ridge of Mount Andromeda and reache...