Washington, Mt. Thompson—On September 2, Dave Bushley (19) and Robert Neiman (18) were approaching the summit on the N.E. shoulder of Mt. Thompson, and following the regular route. The terrain did not require skill, and they were unroped. Bushley,...
Manaslu Attempt. A French expedition to the east ridge of Manaslu led by Jean Fréhel failed on October 26 at nearly 25,000 feet after Pierre Beghin and Thierry Leroy were badly frostbitten in deep snow. The climb had been planned as a semi-alpine-...
Sermilik Fjord, South Greenland. An Austrian expedition led by Ernst Herzinger visited Sermilik Fjord in southwestern Greenland. They climbed eight mountains that were between 5000 and 7225 feet, some of extreme difficulty with mixed ice and rock.
Arizona, Catalina Mountains, Alamo Canyon. On November 12 Edward Reilly (17) and Bryan Castner were hiking and scrambling on the cliffs of Alamo Canyon. Reilly slipped and fell about 20 feet. He was also struck on the right ankle by a falling rock...
Mt. Mills, Northwest Ridge. Jackie Carroll and I climbed this spectacular ridge in an unintended two-day push from Rock Creek Lake. From Mills Lake we crested the North Ridge of Mt. Mills, only to find that our dog had followed us over 4th class g...
PULMONARY EDEMAAlaska, Mount McKinleyKarl Muck (45) was a member of the five-man Munchener Expedition on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley. The group flew onto the mountain on May 27 and made a carry to 16,000 feet on June 1. That evening, Muck ...
Annapurna I. An Austrian expedition led by Ernst Gritzner gave up attempting the French route on Annapurna I on May 8 after Rudolf Widmann was injured in an avalanche between Camps II and III.Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club
Fitz Roy Area, Various Ascents. On February 11, 1998, Rainer Treppter and two partners (all from Germany) summited Fitz Roy via the Royal Flush route (second ascent). On February 12, German Jens Richter and Jack Tigle (Scotland) climbed the Franco...
Spire Point, South Face. On September 14, Paul Karkiainen and I made the first ascent of the south face of 8220-foot Spire Point, 600 feet above the snow high over Cub Lake in the Dome Peak country. The route starts at a chimney west of the bottom...
Polish Expeditions in the Hindu Kush. There were in 1977 some 22 Polish expeditions in the Hindu Kush with 180 members. They achieved much in the way of climbing and science. The greatest problem now is the requirement to spend $20 (US) per man/da...
Umanak Fjord, West Greenland. A party from England sailed in Mischief to this region at latitude 71° 30’ N., leaving May 14 and arriving at Igdlorssuit July 18. This is a small Esquimo settlement on Ubekendt Island, but for a party which has to hi...
Ganesh II Attempt. A joint expedition of four Swiss and two Nepalese was led by Peter Molinari. They attempted the southeast face to the south ridge but on October 16 failed to get higher than 20,000 feet. They had only one camp (18,500 feet) abov...
“Little Mac Spire”. On June 19, naïvely contemplating a one-day east-west traverse of all the McMillan Spires, Bill Sumner and I made the first ascent of this unnamed pinnacle immediately east of East McMillan Spire in the Southern Pickets, via a ...
Ganesh II. A joint Japanese-Nepalese expedition made the first ascent of Ganesh II (23,458 feet) under the leadership of Takeo Ohmori. They tried the southeast ridge but found it difficult and turned to the north face. On October 19 the climbing l...
Noshaq. Two Austrian expeditions, one from Styria composed of Dr. Gerald Gruber, Dr. Rudolf Pischinger, Norbert Zernig, Sepp Weber, and Manfred Schober and the other from Upper Austria composed of Hans Pilz, Matthias Hofpointner, Siegfried Jungmai...
Annapurna Tragedy. A three-man Japanese expedition was attempting Annapurna via the Dutch rib when on October 18 Camp II was buried by an avalanche. Susumu Akimatsu and Miko Ono died but Takashi Ozaki escaped.Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club, and...
Mt. Sergeant Robinson, north face. Cash Joyce and Carl Oswald, who has been extremely active in putting up routes in the western and northwestern Chugach over the last few years, did a 12-hour blitz of the previously unclimbed north face of Mt. Se...
P 12,360 and Others, Mount Hayes Group. The Kansai University expedition was composed of Yoshimi Miyamoto, Hajime Naemura, Hiroshi Anzawa, Shigefumi Matsumoto and me as leader. Three of us left Paxson for Mount Hayes on June 16 by plane, but the p...
On May 2 Paul Roderick of Talkeetna Air Taxi landed Cody Arnold, Peter Haeussler, and I, all from Anchorage, at 5,600' on the northwest fork of the Coffee Glacier. Over the next four days we made an attempt on the west ridge of Broken Tooth. Start...
A.A.C., Cascade Section. Membership in the Section increased to over 100 members with the addition of several new climbers to the roster. Most members were active throughout the summer both within the United States and elsewhere. Trips were made t...