Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Steeple Peak, East Temple, Haystack

Steeple Peak, East Temple, Haystack. Lured by the unclimbed northeast face of East Temple, David Black, Alan Bartlett and I completed three new routes on the seldom climbed rock forming the east faces of East Temple, Steeple Peak, and Haystack. Le...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Dolomite Peak

(2) Pipestone Croup Dolomite Peak, 9828 ft. First ascent, June 30. J. M. Thorington, P. Kaufmatin. From Bow Lake by way of rock slides and meadows across a high shoulder to the foot of Dolomite pass. The fourth tower, counting from the north, is t...


Accident Reports ANAM
Washington, Southern Olympics

California, Kings Canyon (National Forest). On April 20, Daniel Smith (17), Richard Dixon, E. J. Pagliassotti, Jerry Sarquis, and Ellis Hedlund started to make a six class climb to Generator Cave which is about 55 feet up an 80 degree cliff. The c...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna II Attempt

Annapurna II Attempt. Rob Collister and I planned a two-man ascent of Annapurna II (26,041 feet) from Pisang in the Manang valley. We placed Base Camp at 17,000 feet directly below the north face of Annapurna II, hoping to find a new and fairly di...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine Patagonia, Cerro Torre, Ferrari Route, and Cerro Standhart, Tomahawk and Exocet Routes, First Link-Up

Cerro Torre, Ferrari Route, and Cerro Standhart, Tomahawk and Exocet Routes, First Link- Up. Laurence Monnoyeur and I have been to Patagonia two times, once in 1996 and the second time last year. In 1996, we climbed El Mocho via the Goulotte Grass...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Ganesh IV Winter Attempt, 1981

Ganesh IV Winter Attempt, 1981. Our United States-Nepalese party included Mingma Tensing, also sirdar, Yogendra Thapa and Kamal Bandari, also liaison officer, and me. A sirdar and liaison officer are required. Thapa and Bandari are members of the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Peak 29 or Dunapurna

Peak 29 or Dunapurna. The Klub Wysokogórski (High Mountain Club) of Zakopane organized an expedition of six to Peak 29 led by Ryz- sard Szafirski with Leszek Korniszewski as doctor. They discovered that local people living in the valleys west of t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Afghanistan, Baba Tangi

Baba Tangi. The Italian Oxus Expedition reached Khandut and explored the Wakhan range of the Hindu Kush. From Qala Panja, they reached the Little Pamir, discovering a peak of about 6000 meters (19,685 feet), called by the inhabitants of the region...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, St. Elias Mountains, Mt. Hobbs, Middle Peak

Mt. Hobbs; Middle Peak. In early April Ruedi Hornberger, Reto Reusch, and a friend they call Gonzo made the first ascent of a 10,500-foot peak between Celeno Peak and Ultima Thule Peak. They accessed the peak from Canyon Creek Glacier and named it...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section

A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. The Section met five times during the year. Programs included illustrated talks on climbs of Nevado Copa, Palcaraju, Huandoy, and Chacraraju in Peru by Leigh Ortenburger; ascents of Mount Hooker in the Wind Rivers an...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru–Cordillera Blanca, Chacraraju, South Face Attempt

Chacraraju, South Face Attempt. On August 21 Alberto García and Francisco José Escolar of Spain and I as guide climbed the south face of Chacraraju. We climbed between the 1978 Richey-Brewer and the Jager routes to the top of the face. We broke tr...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Commonwealth of Independent States, Russia, Siberia, Altai Mountains, Northern Chuisky Range, Maashey Valley, Various Ascents

Maashey Valley, Various Ascents. The Altai mountains straddle the border area of Russia, Kazakhstan, Mongolia and China. Much of the mountaineering interest in the range lies within Russia—broadly speaking, in southwest Siberia, or more precisely ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Baruntse Attempt

Baruntse Attempt. Our expedition hoped to climb Baruntse by the normal southeast ridge. We established Base Camp, Camps I and II at 5400, 6100 (on the west col) and 6500 meters. On October 25, Xavier Pignède, Françoise Bouchut, Françoise Goudet, J...


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded, Exposure—Hypothermia, Inadequate Clothing/Equipment, Climbing Alone, Weather, Exceeding Abilities, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs Peak

STRANDED, EXPOSURE–HYPOTHERMIA, INADEQUATE CLOTHING/ EQUIPMENT, CLIMBING ALONE, WEATHER, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn September 4 at 0400, Sudheer Averineni (26) from Fort Collins began an attempt on Lon...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Logan, East-West Traverse

Mount Logan, East-West Traverse. We members of the Senshu Alpine Club traversed Mount Logan from east to west via the east, central and west peaks. The east-ridge party was composed of Tsuneo Ohnishi, Tomikazu Himemoto, Takeshi Itatani, Teruo Saka...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Fairweather from the North

Fairweather from the North. On May 8, Dean James from Wales, Ian Berry and Andrew Allerton from England, and I from Alaska were flown to 3000 feet on the Grand Plateau Glacier by Kurt Gloyer of Gulf Air after six days in Yakutat waiting for flying...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, P 19,950, Balcchish Range, Hispar Wall

P 19,950, Balcchish Range, Hispar Wall. Jamie Thin and I climbed P 19,550 (5959 meters) at the eastern end of the Balcchish Range on the southern side of the Hispar Glacier. We crossed an easy icefall to bivouac below the 2500-foot ice headwall of...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistani-Afgan Frontier Area, Kohe Keshnikhan

Kohe Keshnikhan. The members of our expedition were Ulrike Boltz, Bernd Brügge, Claus Dittmers, Heiko Irmisch, Frank John, Martin and Ulrich Roeder and I as leader. Base Camp was in the Keshnikhan valley at 13,775 feet. We climbed Kohe Tokhan (16,...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Ascent of Manaslu North I and Attempt on Manaslu North II

Manaslu, Ascent of Manaslu North I and Attempt on Manaslu North II. An expedition of 11 South Koreans was led by Park Tae-Gyu. On September 25, Lee Yong-Cheol and Ngawang Phurba Sherpa claimed to have completed the ascent of Manaslu (8163 meters, ...


Notes AAJ
Studies Made During 1933, Conclusion

CONCLUSIONFrom the foregoing it is clear that a systematic study of the glaciers of North America and the meteorological conditions in their vicinity has been begun. It is highly desirable that this work should continue and be extended to every im...