A.A.C., New York Section. On July 4, 1993, an era came to a close as the American Alpine Club moved its headquarters from the Ladd Clubhouse in New York City, where it had resided since 1949, to the Junior High School Building in Golden, Colorado....
Huandoy Oeste, 1978. To clarify the new route we did (A.A.J., 1979, p. 229), I add the following. We climbed from the Cook Glacier to the plateau via a small ridge in the center of the ice wall to the right of Ortenburger’s 1954 route. The ridge e...
Peaks along the Prince Rupert Line of the Canadian National Railways. About five miles west of Dorreen is Mt. Sir Robert Borden, consisting of two peaks and a small glacier; also a rather spectacular sharp peak beyond and a rounded snowy one beyon...
Baptiste Lake Tower. While in the Grave Lake area I made a solo first ascent of the attractive tower just northeast of the mouth of Baptiste Lake. It can be seen very prominently on the trail from Grave Lake and is actually the southern peak of th...
Mt. Chamberlain, Asleep at the Wheel. In August Mike Pennings and I checked out Mt. Chamberlain, located southwest of Mt. Whitney. I had been teased by a photo of the northwest face for years. A buttress on the left (southern) edge of the wall was...
HAPE AND HACEWashington, Mount RainierWhile spending the night on the summit of Mount Rainier, off duty climbing rangers Gauthier and Patterson were contacted by the leader of a scientific research team, who informed them that one of his team memb...
Mesahchie Peak. This peak has received increasing attention in the past few years. On July 29, 1978, Stimson Bullit and Kjell Gustafson climbed the east ridge. Subsequent parties have climbed variations on the ridge and the adjacent southeast gull...
Stok Kangri and P 20,000+, Zanskar Range, 1976. On September 16, 1976 Dr. William Hawk, Richard Brower and I established Base Camp at 15,000 feet north of Stok Kangri (20,723 feet). The next day I climbed solo P 20,000+ via 45° ice slopes on the n...
Ama Dablam, West Ridge. Second place in the High Altitude Class of the Russian Climbing Competitions went to the team consisting of B. Ceducov (leader), E. Vinogradskie, N. Zakapov, V. Kapataev, A. Karlov, V. Lebedev, V. Pershin, and G. Tortladze ...
Lower Sentinel Falls Ice Climbing, Yosemite. In January 1987, during an unusual cold snap, Ed Sampson and I climbed the lowest 750 feet of the frozen Lower Sentinel Falls. The ice was thin but well bonded to the wall. The route was repeated over t...
Witherspoon Attempt, Chugach. The Mountaineering Association of Higashimatusyama City of Saitama Prefecture Expedition was composed of Nakamasa Matsuzaki, Atsui Kojima and four others. They were landed on the Columbus Glacier by Don Sheldon in Jun...
FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HAT, HYPOTHERMIAColorado, NotchtopSince there were no witnesses to this incident, the following scenario is based on educated conclusions from the evidence found.Mark Frevert (28) and Bo Mitchell (19) departed the Bear Lake t...
Devtoli and Kedarnath, 1979. Two successful expeditions of 1979 not previously reported were a Tokyo expedition led by Fujiro Konno, which climbed Devtoli (22,270 feet, 6788 meters) in the Nanda Devi region, and an Indian expedition, which made th...
Truce Mountain and the “Horseshoe Peaks”, Truce Group, Purcells. On July 20 Bruce Beck, Jack Wells, and I left our car, some miles up the Jumbo Creek road, and packed over 7500-foot Jumbo Pass into the valley of the south terminal fork of Glacier ...
River Road and the Moab Area. Second in new-route activity only to the Potash Road and Long Canyon area, the River Road and Moab area experienced an unprecedented number of ascents this season. Mark Whiton, solo, climbed a variation on Dolomite Sp...
The Stump, Choss-o-Licious. In a 17-hour round-trip from base camp on May 30 and 31, Joe Johnson, Steven Lucarelli, and I established this incredibly fine, choss-infested route. It basically starts on the southeast buttress of The Stump, atop a la...
On June 3, 4 and 5 Cactus Bryan and I climbed this 2100-foot wall by a route nearly in the dead center. The line, in fact, was what attracted us: a slightly curving crack system from the bottom to just right of the summit. Being at least 10° less ...
Sue Nott (37) and Karen McNeill (37) registered with the National Park Service on March 13th as “Turtle Team” expedition for a climb of the Infinite Spur route on Mount Foraker. Nott checked in at the Talkeetna Ranger Station on April 19th w...
The Matterhorn, by Guido Rey, translated by J. E. C. Eaton. A new edition, revised and with additional chapters by R. L. G. Irving. Square 8vo., x, 278 pp., photographic illustrations, maps and diagrams. Oxford, 1946: Basil Blackwell. Price, 15/—....
Lhotse Shar Attempt. Scots Mal Duff and Sandy Allan hoped to make a two-man, alpine-style ascent of the south face of Lhotse Shar in early May. This quick ascent was never achieved. They were climbing on the southeast face for acclimatization when...