Urkinmang, Langtang Himal. On November 8 Bill Roos, Judy Rearick, Larry Derby and I made the second ascent of Urkinmang (20,100 feet) by its west ridge. The day before the summit was reached, ropes were fixed on 600 feet of rock band which began a...
FALL ON ROCK, LOWERING ERROR – ROPE (TOO SHORT) SLIPPED THROUGH BELAY DEVICE (GRIGRI)Utah, Pine Creek CanyonOn May 9th, rescuers responded to a climbing accident near the Zion- Mount Carmel Tunnel. A 27-year-old man was on a route known as “Feast ...
Rainbow Mountain, Correction. On page 452 of A.A.J., 1976 it tells of a route climbed on March 3, 1975. This route was not done first at that time but had been done previously. Joe Herbst climbed it in early January, 1975, accompanied by Tom Kaufm...
Ascents of Mounts Duff, Wade and Surrounding Peaks. Our most notable climbs during a week of excellent weather were the apparent first ascents of Mount Duff, Mount Wade, and "Saddlehorn Spire" (the striking peak directly east of Mount Vern Ritchie...
AVALANCHE, WEATHERColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Flattop MountainOn November 1, 1992, Brad Farnan (30), Todd Martin (24) and two female climbers were practicing snow climbing techniques on the Central Couloir, Northwest Face of Flattop Mo...
AVALANCHE - TRIGGERED BY CLIMBERNew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Pinnacle GullyOn March 10 shortly after 10:30 a.m., a solo ice climber (31) fell approximately 1,150 feet after triggering an avalanche in Pinnacle Gully. The avalanche deposited him...
Siguang Ri. We had as members I. Sato, S. Fukuyama, Hideo Takebe, Nobuo Yagi, Dr. H. Tanaka, Hideo Oka, Y. Nishizawa (f), H. Ogura, Takashi Okuda, M. Yagura (f), M. Komatsu, K. Shimoda, Tatsuya Ogata, Takashi Miki and me as leader. Siguang Ri lies...
Thui Group, Hindu Raj. The Edinburgh Hindu Raj Expedition was composed of Dave Broadhead, George Gibson, Dave Page, Des Rubens and me. We traveled by jeep from Gilgit to Yasin and continued for four days through Thui and Sholtali to Base Camp at 1...
West Sikkim, Jopuno, west ridge.After 12 days of unstable March weather in the Thangsing Valley and an unsuccessful attempt on the northwest ridge of Tinchenkang (6,010m), Sarah DeMay, Sam Gardner, Josh Smith, and I turned to the aesthetic unclimb...
Disteghil Sar. A Swiss expedition was unable to ascend Disteghil Sar (25,868 feet). The leader, Raymond Lambert, was accompanied by his wife Annette, Marcel Bize, Claude Asper, Charles Jaquet, Italo Gamboni, Dr. Robert Marty, Mario Grossi and Andr...
The Town Wall. Behind the town of Index, northeast of Mount Index on the Stevens Pass highway, there are several large cliffs. The ones on the left are just quarries, and those on the right have too many bushes and trees; but the main, very wide c...
Mount Williamson, North Face. The 2200-foot high north cliffs are impressive, even when viewed from far up Owens Valley. In contrast to the popular west and southeast sides, only two north-side routes are known to exist. My wife Ruth and I ascende...
Mount Hunter, North Ridge, 1977. In the account of the climb of the north ridge in A.A.J., 1980 on page 523, it may have been implied that the first American ascent of the ridge was being reported. The ridge was actually climbed in May, 1977 by Gl...
AndesPeru. To correct an error of omission (A. A. J. iv, 176) we wish to state that Coropuna was ascended on October 15th, 1911, by our fellow-member Hiram Bingham, who recorded the details in “Harper’s Mag.” cxxiv (March, 1912) and in his book, I...
Everest Attempt. Carolyn Gunn and I arrived on August 17 at Kathmandu, where we met the other team member, Tamding Sherpa. We left on the 20th for Tibet and arrived at our 17,000-foot Base Camp on August 24. On the 29th, Carolyn and I hiked up the...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY-ROPE TOO SHORTAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Back of the Lake CragOn September 15, after completing Imaginary Grace (5.8), a climber was being lowered out from the anchors by his partner. The route is 30 meters long and t...
Everest, an uncommon post-monsoon ascent and partial ski descent. Only a handful of climbers go to Everest in the autumn season because everyone knows that very few succeed in the short climbing period between the end of the monsoon rains in Septe...
Point 11,653. Continuing the intensive exploration of the environs of Mount Moran, Ted Vaill, Stuart Kearns, and Ben Shapiro made the first ascent of this prominent point on the northwest ridge of Moran on August 31. After taking the boat across J...
BHOS Dome, Tenaya Canyon. If you know where to look and you really care, BHOS Dome is visible from the Mirror Lake parking area. Last spring, Dennis Hennek, TM Herbert, Doug Scott, and I climbed the southface–or the Mugwump Wall–in 1½ days. The ro...
Churen Himal. A 10-member expedition of Kawasaki University, led by Kazuhiro Sato, attempted Churen Himal (24,184 feet) from the north, a new route which would have tried the east and north peaks. The expedition was abandoned on April 21 after two...