Grand Teton, Loki’s Tower, Tetons. The northwest corner of the Grand Teton, rising between the north ridge route of 1931 and the northwest chimney route of 1960, provided a new and difficult route with spectacular exposure for Michael Stern and Ma...

Drangang Ri, second ascent, by a new route; Ripimo Shar, possible new route; Chekigo, first authorized ascent. The goals of the Academic Alpine Club Zurich expedition to the Rolwaling were Drangnag Ri (6,757m) and Chekigo (6,257m). The team member...

Lhotse Shar Ascent and Tragedy. A large Swiss expedition comprising six climbers, doctor, cook, two photographers and five research workers from the Department of Physiology at Geneva University planned to spend three months in the Lhotse area. Th...

Bridge Mountain, Estrogen Enterprise. This route climbs the finlike buttress on Bridge Mountain’s southwest face, below the saddle on the right side of the mountain. The route reaches a ledge in two pitches. It then heads up and right toward an ob...

Mount Sbuksan, First Complete Ascent of East Face. On July 1 Bill Tilley and Don Claunch climbed the trail up the north fork of the Noaksack River about four miles, to the trail’s end, crossed the river on logs, and continued up three miles of bou...

Aconcagua, New Route on the Right Side of the South Face, 1986. Milan Romih and I made a trip to the Plaza de Francia in bad weather from February 9 to 11, 1986. We returned there on February 14. We were held back by bad weather until February 18 ...

Nanda Devi: Mr. Hugh Ruttledge, with the guide, Emile Rey, of Courmayeur and six Sherpa porters spent the early part of the summer of 1932 in an attempt to reach the summit of this, the highest mountain in the British Empire, but obtained only a f...

Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park. On 18 August Larry Starke (25) and four companions were climbing in the Park. According to Starke, a member of the party above him dislodged several rocks, one of which hit Starke in the back. The rock was about...

Kedarnath Dome. Our group was made up of Italian, French and Swiss climbers. We aimed to climb Kedarnath Dome on skis by the normal route, the northwest face. We set up Base Camp at Tapovan on September 12. After two days for acclimatization we le...

P 7998, Thompson Ridge, Chugach Mountains. On April 8, Gary Green of McCarthy Air Taxi flew Harold Hunt and me to the western end of the Bagley Icefield region. We had hoped to climb one of the higher peaks, but the weather changed our plans. We w...

Thalay Sagar Attempt. Paolo Pezzolato and I were driven back from the final part of the south face of Thalay Sagar by a terrible snowstorm. After reaching 6300 meters, we had to turn back, Pezzolato with a dislocated knee and I with frostbitten fe...

Makalu West Face. Pierre Beghin’s remarkable climb of the west face of Makalu is described in a full article starting on page 1 of this volume.

Torre Norte del Paine, North Summit, 1992. On December 30 and 31, Italians Carlo Besana, Mauricio Garota, Manuele Panzeri, Norberto Riva and Umberto Villota climbed a new route on the west face to the Torre Norte del Paine’s north summit, which th...

Netherlands Gasherbrum II Ascent, 1988. On June 25, 1988, Arjan van Waardenburg, Rene de Bos, Hans van der Meulen and I reached the summit of Gasherbrum II. From Camp I at 6000 meters on the glacier plateau at the foot of the south face, we climbe...

Churen Himal. Suemitsu Ohtsuka led this six-man expedition of the Hohkei Club. On October 25 Masahiro Nagaoka and the Sherpa Parkam reached the summit from Camp IV at 22,750 feet on the west ridge. They had set up Base Camp (14,925 feet), Camps I ...

Shisha Pangma Central Summit. A Belgian expedition included leader Mark Baruffa, his wife Gille Pille, Reginald Roels, Kris Doom, Jan De Boe, Wouter Bebusscher, two doctors and a TV team. Like many groups before them (see item above), they decline...

Lapche Valley, reconnaissance. In order to find a place that is utterly unknown and to satisfy my curiosity, I decided to visit the unfrequented Lapche Valley, a small but independent mountain group located roughly 100 km northeast of Kathmandu. I...

McCall Glacier, Romanzof Mountains. In the spring of 1969 personnel from the Geophysical Institute of the University of Alaska reoccupied McCall Glacier to continue the glacial and meteorological research begun in 1957-58 during IGY by the Arctic ...

Denali, West Rib, Variation. Jason McHam and I climbed the West Rib route on Denali, sum- mitting on June 26. We believe we made two variations to the standard route. The first variation, from 11,000 to 12,800 feet, is a section of Alaska Grade 4 ...

Mount Logan and Mount Kennedy. Climbing activity in Kluane National Park was again up this year. We had 30 groups made up of 158 people spending a total of 3693 man-days in the park. Five parties climbed the King Trench route of Mount Logan succes...