Pt. 10,772 (The Beehive), South Face. In September John Gallagher, Erik Guss and "AJ" Helms hiked into the Beehive Basin to do an unknown route next to The Bulge. When we got there, a line immediately to the right of the bulge appeared more promis...
Gasherbrum I Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition, composed of four Japanese, Russian Igor Kurkov, Nepali Tsindi Dorje Sherpa and Austrians Gerhard Frossmann and me, was led by Dr. Makoto Hara. When we got to Base Camp in July, we discovered that th...
Dhaulagiri V. The success of the Okayama University Expedition was not just a lucky hit but the result of careful planning. In the 1974 pre-monsoon period three members of our expedition reconnoitered the mountain. We were able to get valuable inf...
Mount Shaughnessy, Selkirks. On August 8, Dr. Robert West and I decided to try Mount Shaughnessy (9320 feet), the only named peak of Glacier Park remaining unclimbed. Since we had both been turned back from it previously, Bob twice and myself once...
California, Berkeley—On April 3, 1955 Alfred E. Young (20) was involved in an accident at Pinnacle Rock, a site frequently used for training and practice by the Sierra Club. This, however, was a private climbing party and not sponsored or supervis...
Cho Oyu Ascent and Shisha Pangma Attempt. Spaniards Bartolomé Quetglas and Ramon Alfredo arrived at the Cho Oyu Base Camp on September 5. They placed Camps I and II at 6400 and 6900 meters. On September 28, Quetglas climbed to the summit. Alfredo ...
Stanley Peak, East Face. Nick Ellena and Heinz Kahl made the first ascent of the steep ice east face of Stanley ( 10,351 feet) on July 21.
Purkhang, first ascent. In the summer, a Japanese party was successful on Purkhang (6,120m) in Manang district north of a popular so-called trekking peak, Chulu West. Of its 11 members, eight, plus six Sherpas, succeeded via the west ridge on Augu...
Arwa Spires, north face, Fior di Vite, attempt. Three Spanish climbers, Rubén de Francisco, José Miguel Herrera, and Santiago Millán, attempted to make the second ascent of Fior di Vite on the north face of the central summit of the 6,193m Arwa Sp...
Mount Chamberlin, Brooks Range. In the A.A.J., 1970 a Bavarian expedition was given credit for the third ascent of Mount Chamberlin. Apparently the third ascent was made on July 5, 1969 by a party from the Seattle Mountaineers led by Sean Rice and...
Denali, Winter Ascents. Two winter ascents were made in the winter of 1997-’98, both of which merit considerable note. On January 16, 1998—when Denali receives five hours, 41 minutes of sunlight per day—Russians Artur Testov, 32, and Vladimir Anan...
Ice Climbing in Colorado. A number of new ice climbs were discovered and climbed in the winter season. Several icicles were found in Paradise Creek Canyon near Rifle. Jim Balog, Jim Logan and Jon Krakauer climbed Parachute. They ascended three pit...
Mt. Crosson, South Ridge, Previously Unreported. In May, 1996, Paul Ramsden (UK) and Andrew Brash (Canada) made the first ascent of the South Ridge of Mt. Crosson before continuing up the Sultana Ridge to the summit of Mt. Foraker. We climbed in a...
Summer 2002/2003 – Autumn 2004The Darran Mountains, Fiordland summary. The Darran Mountains are New Zealand’s greatest multi-pitch alpine rock venue. With technical diorite slabs and faces, occasional glacier approaches, and peaks up to 2,700m, th...
Lizard Head Peak, Northeast Corner. From July 21 to 24 Michael Jackson, Stephanie Petrilak and I climbed a new route on the 1800-foot northeast corner of Lizard Head Peak (12,842 feet). Each of the three previous unsuccessful attempts had high poi...
(1) Yoho-Waputik Group St. Nicholas Peak, 9616 ft. First ascent, June 27. J. M. Thorington, P. Kaufmann, From Bow Lake by way of the snow-field above the southern Bow glacier, and the east face, 4 hours. Descent of south arête and traverse to nor...
Mount Rainier, South Tahoma Glacier Headwall. The South Tahoma Glacier and its headwall which rises to Point Success on Mount Rainier had only recently been opened by the Park Service after a closure of over 15 years following the crash of a Marin...
British Empire Range, Ellesmere Island. Sponsored by the Explorer’s Club, this expedition was aimed at exploratory ski-mountaineering on the northern coast of Ellesmere Island, above latitude 82°N. Our four-man advance party including Van Cochran,...
Washington, Mt. Thompson—On September 2, Dave Bushley (19) and Robert Neiman (18) were approaching the summit on the N.E. shoulder of Mt. Thompson, and following the regular route. The terrain did not require skill, and they were unroped. Bushley,...
Manaslu Attempt. A French expedition to the east ridge of Manaslu led by Jean Fréhel failed on October 26 at nearly 25,000 feet after Pierre Beghin and Thierry Leroy were badly frostbitten in deep snow. The climb had been planned as a semi-alpine-...