Itsoc Huanca, Dominguerismo Vertical. The wall is situated in the Quebrada Rurec. To get there obtain transport to Olleros. Here you can get burros to carry gear to base camp, four hours’ walk from town. Three hours into the hike the walls become ...
Panch Chuli III, Attempt. The virgin Panch Chuli III (6314m) was attempted from May-June by a young IMF team selected from all over India. The leader, S. Bhattacharya, was an experienced mountaineer from Delhi. They attempted the peak from the eas...
Trekking in the Himalayas. Stan Armington. Third Revised Edition. Lonely Planet Publications, South Yarra, Australia, 1982. 218 pages, black and white illustrations, maps, bibliography. $6.95.Contrary to the implication of the title, this book is ...
Nun and Kun. Of these twin peaks, Nun (23,410 feet), first climbed by French Mme Claude Kogan and Swiss Pierre Vittoz in 1953, is much more difficult than Kun (22,250 feet) first climbed in 1914. They were climbed this year by an expedition of the...
Fortaleza, Northwest Spur, Paine Group, 1989. Roberto Cazan, Fabio Bristot and I made a new route on the northwest spur of Fortaleza (2754 meters, 9038 feet). We were in the region from October 28 to November 30, 1989, generally with bad weather a...
Central Tower of Paine, South African Route. A team of six Mountain Club of South Africa members—Alard Hüfner, Mark Seuring, Michael Mason, Dermot Brogan, Marianne Pretorius, and Voitec Modrzewski—spent December 2003 and January 2004 climbing the ...
Huandoy Sur, South Face Attempt. Stevie Docherty, Sam Crymble, Ian Nicholson, Don Higgins, Ian Singleton and I as leader arrived in the Blanca on June 27. Camp I on the easterly moraine below the face was stocked by June 29. On the 30th we made an...
Punta Herron Attempt via West Buttress. Andrea Sarchi, Odoardo Ravizza and I arrived at Base Camp at Piedra del Fraile on October 25. Despite bad weather between October 28 and November 2, we managed two carries to the Paso Marconi at 1500 meters....
Karjiang, Kula Kangri Group. This peak lies just northeast of Kula Kangri. Under the leadership of Nobuhiro Shingo, six climbers of the Himalayan Association of Japan traveled from Lhasa to Monda. They headed up the glacier on September 9. At firs...
Washington, Stuart Range, Mt. Stuart. On 30 June Charles K. Rothgeb (23) was leading four inexperienced persons on a climb near the base of Mt. Stuart. During the climb one of the members lost his ice-axe so Rothgeb gave him his. Later as they cro...
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—NO ICE AXColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn July 14, 1991, at 1530, Mark Horton (30) slipped while traversing the snowfield at the base of the Cable Route on the North Face of Longs Peak. Horton...
Southwest Desert Soft Rock Climbing. Among the main attractions of the desert around Moab are the rich reds and blacks and blues of hematite and manganese, the alpenglow at day’s end, the play of light and shadow on angular rock, and the lure of t...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Quebec, Val David, Mount KingOn September 25,1993, F.C. (30), with seven years’ climbing experience, and F.D. (33) with two years experience, were attempting “The Crown,” a medium difficult route on Mount King. ...
Raksha Urai, attempt. Hubert Fritzenwaller’s five-man Austrian expedition failed at ca 5800m on one of Raksha Urai’s unclimbed summits (assumed to be the Rakshi Urai III as mentioned by the British party below). The team gave up on the east face i...
K2 Attempt. We were Doug Dalquist, leader, Greg Collins, Bob Hess, Dan Heilig and I. Except for the few mornings when the porters had to be persuaded to carry in poor weather, the 11-day approach went without incident. Within a few days of our arr...
Dharamsura Attempt and Ascent. Two Japanese expeditions approached Dharamsura (6446 meters, 21,150 feet) from different directions. Four climbers led by Zenkosuke Sakurazawa approached from Manikaran in Kulu in July. They were stopped by monsoon w...
Lhotse. An international expedition was highly successful on the west face of Lhotse. Leader Oskar Kihlborg and Mikael Reuterswärd of Sweden were the first Scandinavians on the summit, arriving on May 9. Mexican Carlos Carsolio was back in Kathman...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Paintbrush DivideOn July 18, at about 1350, Stewart Laing (47) slid about 30 feet on snow, then cart-wheeled another 75-100 feet on talus near the summit of Paint...
Nalumasortoq, West Face, Mussel Power. In July, in Southern Greenland, Silvo Karo (Slovenia), Tony Penning (U.K.) and I made the first ascent of Mussel Power, a direct line up the center of the North Tower of Nalumasortoq. The route was 800 meters...
Glorious Failures and Courageous Misfortune, with forewords by John Harlin III and Mark Synnott respectively (Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2001; paperback, $16.95), launch a new anthology series “distinguished by a specific adventuring theme.”