Notes AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Shisha Pangma Correction

Shisha Pangma Correction. On page 296 of AAJ1991, it should have stated that Jean-Pierre Bernard’s party got to the central summit of Shisha Pangma, not the main one. Regarding the many groups that fail to climb the main summit of Shisha Pangma (8...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Roosevelt-Churchill Group

Roosevelt-Churchill Group, Northern Rockies. During late July and early August, Rich Gnagy, Barbara Lilley, Alex McDermott, Mike McNicholas, Marcia Wallerstein and I visited the group of unclimbed peaks west of Fort Nelson, British Columbia, and j...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Mustang Region, Annapurna Himal, Annapurna Central Summit, Ascent

Annapurna Central Summit, ascent. A Russian, Boris Korshunov, whose age has been reported as between 68 and 70. set out from the top camp on the Standard (French) Route up the north face of Annapurna on the 28th May. However, he slanted up left to...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Kumaun, Eastern Kumaun, Adi Kailash Range, Ishan Parbat, First Ascent

Eastern Kumaun, Adi Kailash Range, Ishan Parbat, first ascent. In September an Indo-British-German party visited the Adi Kailash Range, which lie between the Darma and Kuthi Yankti valleys to the east of the Panchchuli massif.Access to foreigners ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Western Brooks Range

Western Brooks Range. On July 27 Gene Warren, my wife Sharon, and I made the first ascent of Mount Oyukak (7310 feet), a broad dome overlooking the Noatak River, twenty miles northwest of Igikpak. The mountain’s name refers to the curious icecap (...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Denali, Wickersham Wall, Continuous Ski Descent

Denali, Wickersham Wall, Continuous Ski Descent. Adrian Nature made a continuous and complete ski descent of the Wickersham Wall, adding 7,000 vertical feet of new terrain on his descent. Ice cliffs prevented him from skiing the Harvard route as h...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, Mount Alice, East Face, Rocky Mountain National Park

Mount Alice, East Face, Rocky Mountain National Park, 1978. I made the first ascent solo of a new line on the right side of the east face of Mount Alice in August, 1978 (NCCS V, F9, A2). The route takes the crack line that diagonals up and slightl...


Notes AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, Denali National Park, Mountaineering Statistics

Denali National Park, Mountaineering Statistics. This past climbing season is the second time since 1991 that the mountain did not claim any lives. Unrelenting high winds contributed to a summit rate of less than 20 percent during the month of May...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Australasia, New Zealand, Barron Saddle, Mt. Brewster Region Summary

Barron Saddle, Mt. Brewster region summary. This is a large and complex alpine region broadly covering the Southern Alps south of the Aoraki Mt. Cook region to the Haast Highway, north of Mt. Aspiring.This region is a treasure trove of new route p...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Steeple Peak, West Face, 1997

Steeple Peak, West Face, 1977. In June, 1977 my brother and I made what we believe was a new route on the west face of Steeple Peak. We climbed six pitches in a direct line up the face. All the cracks are clean and lead directly to the summit with...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mt. Ayesha

Mt. Ayesha, 10,036 ft. First ascent, July 15. E. Cromwell, J. M. Thorington, P. Kaufmann. From Bow Lake by way of How glacier and south shoulder of Mt. Rhondda, which is crossed and a couloir descended to the snowfield below east face of objective...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Mount Rainier, Kautz Glacier Headwall

Mount Rainier, Kautz Glacier Headwall. The Kautz Glacier Headwall on Mount Rainier was climbed July 8 by Pat Callis, Don Gordon, and Dan Davis. This headwall is the glacial finger and rock and snow face above the left part of the Kautz Glacier, bo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Arctic, Northernmost Auyuittuq National Park, Baffin Island

Northernmost Auyuittuq National Park, Baffin Island. I left Broughton Island in the company of three Eskimos on July 8. Travel by sled on the ice of Davis Strait was slow because of poor ice conditions. After four days, I was left alone near the e...


Accident Reports ANAM
Washington, Mt. Baker

Washington, Mt. Baker—On September 18, Helmut Krutz (26) climbed Mt. Baker with the Vancouver Outdoor Club and the University of British Columbia Climbing Club. As the party returned from the climb, the members were unroped and straggling. Krutz w...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Irish Greenland Expedition

Irish Greenland Expedition. A party of seven Irish mountaineers led by Joss Lynam visited the head of Tasermuit Fjord, near Cape Farewell. Though we hoped to spend five weeks climbing in the area, we lost two weeks getting from the airfield to Bas...


Accident Reports ANAM
Calilfornia, King's Canyon (National Forest)

California, Hunter's Hill, Near Vallejo. On February 11, William Litterick, Jr. (25) and George Pastor were climbing the Yellow bank on Hunter’s Hill. Some parts of the rock are sound, other parts are extremely rotten. The weather had been quite u...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Birch Mountain, North Ridge, Attempt and Tragedy

Birch Mountain, north ridge, attempt and tragedy. I had scoped out a line on this long ridge and questioned Sierra veteran Doug Robinson as to whether it had been ascended. He became secretive, and, probing further, I discovered that he also inten...


Accident Reports ANAM
Pulmonary Edema, Alaska, Mount McKinley

PULMONARY EDEMAAlaska, Mount McKinleyThe seven-member Keio University Japanese expedition flew to Kahiltna to climb Mount McKinley on May 21. By May 28, the party reached the 14,200-foot camp on the West Buttress. One member, Makiya Naito (22), wa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna II

Annapurna II. A Tyrolean-Bavarian expedition led by Johann Schar- nagel, which had hoped to climb the south face of Annapurna II to the west ridge, gave up on May 3 at the 23,300-foot col on the west ridge.Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine Patagonia, Torre Egger and Cerro Standhart, Attempts

Torre Egger and Cerro Standhart, Attempts. Hugo Biarge, Pere Vilarasau and I tried an alpine-style ascent of Badlands on Torre Egger on December 15-16. We were unsuccessful. January was awful: there wasn’t a single day of good weather; our ice cav...