Sierra Nevada Section. The Sierra Nevada Section was pleased to welcome over 130 new members, bringing total membership to over 800. The annual “Climbmunity” gatherings continued to be popular and well attended. The first was our January ice climb...
Fortress, Paine Group. In January Keith Myhill, Phil Burke and Mick Horlov climbed very nearly to the top of the east face of the Fortress. Two earlier attempts had been beaten off by bad weather. The final climb lasted for 13 days. The 6000-foot-...
Lhotse Attempt. Peter Hillary (New Zealand), Fred From (Australia), Paul Moores (U.K.) and I attempted Lhotse by the normal west-face route. We were sharing the route through the Khumbu Icefall with a large Canadian expedition intent on climbing t...
Pegish Zom and Noghor Zom. The expedition of the Rottenmann Section of the Austrian Alpine Club (ÖAV) was composed of Hans Gassner, leader, Sepp Peer and Fritz Iglar. They left Chitral on July 10 and Uzhnu on the 15th to get to Base Camp at 13,500...
I remember the night in 1987 when Jim Donini and Jack Tackle established Predator. My worried mother and other friends dispatched my dad and me to collect Jim and Jack after they had failed to return home at what she deemed a “reasonable time.”...
Extreme Skiing, Longs Peak and Others. In May Jimmy Katz and I made the first ski descent of Longs east face. We skied from the Notch, a couple of hundred feet below the summit. After 300 feet of skiing, we entered a narrow section that required o...
Kishtwar Himal, Eastern Kashmir. The principal aims of our 1969 post-monsoon expedition were to climb and explore in the Kiar and Nanth Nallahs, in particular to investigate two virgin 21,000-foot peaks, Brammah (21,050 feet) and Sickle Moon (21,5...
Wyoming Rockies, 1940Teton RangeLast season (1940) was an active one in the Tetons, with many new routes added to those of previous years. While this list is reasonably complete there may be omissions of new climbs not reported to the writer.Proba...
Gasherbrum IV, Northwest Ridge, Attempt. It was reported that the Basques Jon Lazkhano, Kiki de Pablo, José Carlos Tamayo and Paco Txabarri attempted to make the second ascent of the Northwest Ridge, reaching an altitude of ca.7300 meters before u...
Mount Alice, East Wall. The route first climbed by Jack Turner and me on July 8 and 9 ascends the 1200-foot east wall of Mount Alice in Rocky Mountain National Park. It is the continuation above and below the left of two parallel white vertical st...
South Donjek Peaks, various ascents. Although thwarted in our attempts on Pt. 4,223m, Paul Geddes, Willa Haraysm, Dave McCormick, Ted Rosen, and I did climb some of the South Donjek Peaks (1:50,000 topo sheets 15C/16,115B/13):Pt. 3,433m (GR499562)...
SLIP ON SNOW, FALL INTO MOAT, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Mount ConstanceOn August 23, 1983, Shane Powell (23) and John Taylor left the trailhead on the Dosewallips at dawn to climb Mount Constance.They ascended...
Mountaineers. The 1961 activities of the Seattle Mountaineers may be summarized as follows. The annual climbing course began February 15 with 222 basic and 39 intermediate students registered. Of these, 98 basic and 13 intermediate students gradua...
Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face Attempt. On May 30 Alan and Adrian Burgess, Graham Drinkwater, Jon Jones, Randy Morse and I established Base Camp at 17,000 feet in the meadows of Tap Alpe. After reconnaissance, we established Advance Base at 14,000 feet ...
Aguja Saint Exupéry, West Face, and Fitz Roy, 1987. After the ascent of Cerro Torre from October 27 to 31, 1987 by Rosanna Manfrini and me, in which she made the first female ascent of the very difficult peak (AAJ, 1988, page 174), good weather re...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INEXPERIENCEColorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn August 29, 1985, Martin Cook reported to the rangers that his partner, Tammy Dziadek(21), had taken a leader fall on Kor’s Flake Route of Sundance Buttress.C...
La Esfinge, Via Gringos. On June 17 Joe Vallone and I, both of Colorado, began to climb the south face of La Esfinge (The Sphinx). Funded by an American Alpine Club Youth Fellowship Award, our team of two set out to make the first all-American asc...
Colorado: Hagerman Peak, Snowmass Peak District. During the last week of August 1949, Robert Hostetter became marooned overnight on Hagerman Peak. He later told a search party that, after progressing ahead of his companions, he decided to climb th...
The Throne, P 6500 and North Troll, Little Switzerland. The Pika Glacier is an arm of the Kahiltna Glacier some 15 miles south of McKinley. Jerry Handren and I established Base Camp at 5300 feet, equidistant from the Royal Tower and the Throne.We ...
California, Yosemite National Park. Roger Bunch (15) and a party of five led by his father were ski-touring to Tenaya Lake from Yosemite Valley via Clouds Rest. Roger’s boots were poorly waterproofed and were soaked through by the second day, and ...