Serenity Spire and Other Climbs, Kichatna Mountains. Jeff Hollenbaugh* and I were in the Kichatna Mountains from June 23 to July 15. We were landed on the Tatina Glacier, where we set up Base Camp. The day we arrived we climbed what we believe is ...
Mount Everest, Activity in the Pre-Monsoon Season. The pre-monsoon season saw more people reach the top of Everest than ever before in a single season, and the total number of ascents ever made has now passed the 1,000 mark. Altogether 118 people ...
Thalay Sagar. Our expedition made the fifth ascent of Thalay Sagar, the second by the first-ascent route on the northwest couloir and ridge made in 1979 by the Anglo-American party led by John Thackray. The other three ascents have been by the nor...
A.A.C., Blue Ridge Section. The Section’s hard work in acting as host for the Club’s 1980 Annual Meeting and Dinner resulted in the blessings of real financial solvency and the creation of a nucleus of dedicated leaders willing to explore possible...
Makalu Attempt. Belgian climbers led by Jos Dewint reached 7700 meters on the northwest side of Makalu on April 25 before having to give up the attempt.Elizabeth Hawley
Blamann, Ultima Thule, first free ascent. After my previous ascent of Ultima Thule, I had an urge to free it. When Oscar Alexandersson and I stood at the base of the wall in showery weather and a temperature of 4°C, we realized our attempt might e...
Everest Attempt by a Nepalese Woman. A group of ten Nepalese, four Frenchmen and a Belgian was led by Mrs. Pasang Lhamu Sherpa, the first Nepalese woman to lead a mountaineering venture. (Many of her leadership duties were performed by her husband...
LOSS OF CONTROL-VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONSWashington, Mount AdamsOn June 24, a climber (38), who had summited Mount Adams alone, was descending wearing crampons when the points on the right crampon “caught” his left leg, causing hi...
Rwenzori Mountains, Mt. Stanley (Margherita Peak, 5,109m), west face, new route. In July, Steve Roach—44-year-old rocket scientist for NASA, orator of Robert Service ballads, experienced mountaineer, and Vedauwoo-trained offwidth aficionado—seven ...
Pilote Des Glaciers, by Hermann Geiger, with a preface by Felix Germain. 152 pages, with 48 illustrations, 6 pen drawings and 6 technical drawings by the author. Paris: B. Arthaud, 1955.This is a fascinating and most unusual book by the famous Swi...
Torre Norte del Paine, 1992. On November 8, 1992, Spaniards Mariano de Blas and Marcelino Carmona climbed the normal Monzino route on the south ridge of the Torre Norte del Paine.Josep Paytubi, Servei General d’Informació de Muntanya
Polish Hindu Kush Expedition. This group, under the leadership of Boleslaw Chwascinski, was in the field from July 12 to October 19. They made the second ascent of Noshaq (24,574 feet) on August 27, just ten days after the first ascent made by the...
HAND-HOLD AND ROCK ANCHOR CAME OUT, FALL/SLIP, OFF ROUTEWashington, Mount ThompsonOn July 22, five climbers left base camp between Mount Thompson and Bumblebee Pass at 0500 for a Mountaineer’s led climb of the West Ridge. Steve Sulzbacher led the ...
Mit Glücklichen Augen, by Walter Pause. (Third edition) München: Bruckmann, 1957. 151 pages; ills, in color. Price 8.50 DM.These “Notes of a romantic mountaineer” have made many friends since their first edition appeared in 1948. Pause takes us on...
Alaska, Mount Juneau—Rex Conley (14) and Dennis Olsen (14) climbed to the summit of Mt. Juneau on July 26. In returning they decided to take a “short cut.” Presumably they descended the ridge back of Evergreen Bowl. Part way down Conley slipped an...
Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1995. Weather during the 1995 climbing season was stormy with high winds and few summit days. The marginal weather conditions prevented many expeditions from reaching the summit and was a l...
Gasherbrum I. Austrian Willi Bauer was back in the Karakoram in 1989 from which he barely escaped in the disastrous 1986 tragedy on K2. He led a commercial group of 20 Austrians and Germans, including some climbers very experienced in the high mou...
Churen Himal. Ryoten Hasegawa and Terayaki Kono reached this 24,184-foot summit via the west ridge on May 13. Nearly a month after leaving Kathmandu, the 10-man team led by Sinichi Nakajima set up Base Camp on April 7. Heavy snowfalls delayed the ...
Downie Peak, Selkirks. Having tramped around it for a great number of years, unclimbed Downie Peak (9500 feet) had become more and more attractive to W. V. Graham Matthews, David (Georgia) Michael and myself. From Downie Creek Auto Court on the Bi...
California, Yosemite (1)—On April 2, 1955 a two-man team of George Sessions (22) and Richard Calderward attempted Rixon’s Pinnacle by an extremely difficult 6th class route that had been climbed once previously by another team. They were fully and...