WEATHER, FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, RAPID ASCENT Alaska, Mount McKinleyThe British Denali Expedition of Chris Massey (39), John Lang (45), and Julian Dixon (37) flew onto the Kahiltna Glacier on May 1, 1989, to begin their ascent of the ...
HERBERT N. HULTGREN, M.D.1917 - 1997Herb Hultgren arguably made more important contributions to our understanding and management of mountain sickness than anyone in our lifetime. He was my friend and mentor for more than 30 years, and we did some ...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTCalifornia, Idyllwild, Suicide RockOn September 5, Trevor Mathews (21), suffered significant head trauma and remains in intensive care. His friend and climbing partner, Claire McKay (22), was treated and released...
Broad Peak and K2. An Italian group, “Quota 8000,” which has a six-year program to climb all fourteen 8000ers, had K2 and Broad Peak for its goal in 1986. The team consisted of Italians Agostino Da Polenza, leader, Marino Giacometti, Gianni Calcag...
Meseta de los Franceses, various first ascents. In July, Pablo Besser, Ismael Mena, Nicolás von Graevenitz, and I made the first winter ascent of Cerro Balmaceda, at southern end of Continental Icecap [see below]. From the summit the Tyndall Glaci...
Vinson Massif, summary and new normal route. A new record total of 157 people reached the summit of Vinson during the 2007-08 season, including at least 19 women. Most of the Vinson ascents were by a new variant to the normal route, detailed below...
Pangong Range, several ascents. A young team of soldiers from the crack 8 Mountain Division of the Indian Army made several ascents in the remote Pangong Range. These peaks lie close to the border with Tibet and are sandwiched between the Military...
GRACE HOEMAN, M D.1921–1971The most active climber in Alaska, Grace Hoeman, died at age 49 on April 12, 1971, in an avalanche on Eklutna Glacier near Anchorage. One companion perished with her; another survived.Grace Hoeman was born in Silver Beac...
Dhaulagiri Ascent and Tragedy. October 31 was a tragic day for our small expedition of four members. Lithuanian Dainius Makauskas, having reached the summit with Nuru Sherpa and me, disappeared on the descent. It was a bitter ending to our trip in...
In August, Jock Jeffrey, Graham Rowbotham, Simon Woods, and I arrived in the Muzkol Range. We wished to make the first ascent of Zartosh, a peak that had been attempted in the late 1990s and 2000 by commercial expeditions organized by EWP, a U.K. ...
Kasum Kanguru’s East FaceSolitary adventures on a never-ending storyby Yasushi Yamanoi, Japan translated by Eiichi FukushimaKasum Kanguru, at 6370 meters and with all the approaches to its summit consisting of steep snow and rock faces, might not ...
Koma Kulshan: The Story of Mt. Baker. John C. Miles. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1984. 232 pages, black and white photographs, sketches, maps, bibliography. $9.95.Koma Kulshan was an Indian name for Mount Baker, the 10,778-foot volcanic peak in the...
Die Weltalte Majestät (The Struggle for the Gross Venediger), by Oskar Kuelken. 8vo., 317 pages and 54 illustrations, 14 sketches and maps. Salzburg: Verlag “Das Bergland Buch,” 1950. Price, $4.00.An almost forgotten phenomenon of Alpine history i...
Maps of Nepal. Harka Gurung. White Orchid Books, Bangkok, 1983. 100 pages, 28 color and black and white maps, many sketches and geological information.The author has been engaged in large-and small-scale planning, not only in his native Nepal but ...
Nanga Parbat, southeast (Rupal) face. From September 1 to 6 Vince Anderson and Steve House made an alpine-style ascent of Nanga Parbat's Rupal Face, via a new line up the central pillar between the south-southeast spur (a.k.a. Messner Route, 1970)...
Appendix to MRC Report. A working relationship has been established between rescue personnel in the Pacific Northwest and rescue authorities in the Alps. The countries concerned formed an International Commission for Alpine Rescue, which is also k...
“Neverseen Tower” and Other Peaks, Miyar Valley. Italians Massimo Marcheggiani, Leone Di Vincenzo and Alberto Miele completed the first ascent of a bold needle, “Neverseen Tower” (c. 5950 meters, 19,520 feet). The 900-meter-high route was climbed ...
BELAY AND TIE-IN ERROR, FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATUtah, Big Cottonwood Canyon, Dogwood CragOn September 26, University of Utah, Remote Rescue Training’s HighAngle Rescue Technician class was practicing rope rescue systems at the Dogwood crag in Big...
The Bean Pole, first ascent; Latok I attempt. On July 12 Bean Bowers and I headed up the north ridge of Latok I to put in a cache and check out the bottom section of the climb. Skirting to the west the rock buttress climbed by many parties, we cli...
On October 9,1993, Joel Blumhagen (43) and Darby Roach were climbing the standard route on Chair Peak. At 1245 Blumhagen clipped into an old piton behind a flake. The flake dislodged and fell on him, starting a small avalanche, and he fell. In t...