Nevado Santa Cruz. We four, Jean Baehler, Claude Guinans, Serge Claudet and I, started our approach from Colcas, an hacienda above Caraz with one porter and ten donkeys. We took three days to go past the lake, Cullicocha, between 14,100- and 15,10...
Panch Chuli. P. W. Nikore, the leader of an Indian expedition on 27 May 1953 claims to have climbed Panch Chuli (22,255 ft.) in Garhwal in a two-day ascent from his high camp. The Scots had failed in 1950 and the Germans in 1951 on this mountain. ...
Sheep Gap Mountain, South Face. Tony Hovey and party climbed this face in midsummer, and found it to be primarily class 4. The Ram’s Horn, a subsidiary point, has also been climbed.
Hispar Sar, attempt. On September 17 the British Hispar Sar Expedition 2004 (Andy Parkin and myself) set up a base camp at Yutmal (a small ablation valley on the north of the Hispar Glacier to the west of the Yutmaru Glacier), after a two-and-a-ha...
Manaslu Women’s Expedition. The Japanese Women’s Manaslu Expedition was made up of Kyoko Sato, commander, Tsune Kuroishi, leader, Masko Uchida, Michiko Sekida, Mieko Mori, Masako Itakura, Mutsumi Natashima, Teiko Suzuki, Tomako Itoh, Shizu Harata,...
FALL OR SLIP ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTTennessee, Tennessee Wall, Blood-on-the-RocksFellow climbers and rescue crews evacuated an injured climber on January 25 at the Tennessee Wall after she took a serious leader fall.Jesse (22) was leading B...
Three Penguins, Arches National Park. In November Larry Bruce, Molly Higgins and I did two short new routes on the Three Penguins formation. A moderate pitch starting right at the road ends on a large ledge at the base of the Penguins themselves. ...
Ascents in the Ulu area. On June 28, Adam Kolff and his father Kees were landed by Kurt Gloyer of Gulf Air Taxi, Yakutat, on a 6,100-foot pass in the small isolated mountain sub-range 15 miles southeast of Mount Kennedy, Kluane National Park. Two ...
STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Lumpy RidgeOn September 2, 1992, at 1615, Nan Derkiss (30) and John Quackenbush became stranded when they got their rope stuck on the second pitch of Pear ...
STRANDEDNevada, Red Rock Canyon NCA, Black Velvet Canyon - Dream of Wild TurkeysOn November 26, two females became stuck between second and the top of the third pitch on Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a). They were stranded because their rope had lodg...
Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma, 1988. On page 283 of AAJ, 1989, it lists an ascent of Cho Oyu, by Noburu Yamada and three other Japanese on November 6, 1988. Actually there were two other Japanese: Teruo Saegusa and A. Yamamoto. Along with O. Shimuzu, ...
Nanga Parbat Attempt. The approach of the Felix Kuen Memorial Expedition, led by Dr. Karl Maria Herrligkoffer, was considerably complicated by their not being able to go along or cross the Karakoram Highway being built by the Chinese. Although the...
Kalanka, northeast face and central spur, Bushido; history. Kazuaki Amano, Fumitaka Ichimura, and Yusuke Sato made the first ascent since 1982 of 6,931m Kalanka. Their new 1,800m route, Bushido, started up the northeast face following a line attem...
Batura Muztagh. The Englishmen, Dr. Keith Warburton, leader, Harry Stephenson and Richard Knight and the Germans, Martin Günnel and Albert Hirschbichler, were last seen alive on June 23 in their Camp III (18,500 feet) in a difficult icefall above ...
Mount Stuart, Direct North Buttress. Fred Stanley and I made a variation of previous routes on this buttress, which consisted primarily of climbing head-on the 200-foot great gendarme high on the buttress. We used a crack system formed by a detach...
Picture Peak, Bishop Area. Rick Wheeler and I made a new route on Picture Peak above the Hungry Packer Lake basin, seven miles from Lake Sabrina. We decided to head for a hand-and-fist crack near the right center of the face. This runs parallel to...
Foraker, Dan Beard, The Rooster Comb. There were four successful expeditions on Mount Foraker, including the first guided ascent of the southeast ridge by John Rehmer and Jon Wells led by Gary Bocarde. Two other groups that also climbed the southe...
The Royal Geographical Society has awarded the Gill Memorial to Capt. F. Spencer Chapman, author of Helvellyn to Himalaya, for his exploration of high peaks in Sikkim and Tibet, in particular for his exploit in climbing Chomolhari on his way back ...
Everest Summer Attempts. The North Col attempt by John Roskelley and me was unsuccessful. Although healthy and well acclimatized, we never got a shot at the summit. The monsoon arrived late and was said to have been the worst in 40 years. Despite ...
FALLING ROCKAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Goat MountainOn September 14 M.D.L.C. was climbing with D. C. on a route called Twilight Zone when he was hit in the right hand by rockfall. His thumb was badly crushed and almost amputated. D. C. called Kanan...