Californians in AlaskaRoyal S. Robbins I ADMIT TO reservations about the title of this piece. The human proclivity to categorization being relentless, I am not sure I want to be known as a Californian. We read of astonishing Japanese successes in ...
Manaslu. The nine-member team from West Germany included a Nepali. The leader of this northeast ridge attempt was Gerhard Lenser. Base Camp was set up on March 28 and Camp I the next day. Camps II and III were established at 18,375 and 21,000 feet...
And The Blind Shall SeeThanks to new techniques and dedicated doctors, the end is in sight for the epidemic of needless blindness in the Himalaya.Geoffrey TabinThe expedition begins with the usual frenzied packing in Kathmandu. Each box is careful...
AVALANCHENevada, Spring Mountain Ranch, Kyle CanyonOn March 24, Russ Peterson (40) an Las Vegas Metropolitan Police Dept. SAR Officer, and J. R., LVMPD SAR Volunteer, snow shoed in to Angel Falls in Kyle Canyon to climb the Hosemonster (WI5). Snow...
Billy Taylor, SourdoughNorman BrightTHE audacity of the four tillicums who, in 1910, conquered Mt. McKinley’s North Peak, has been a never-ending source of astonishment to present-day mountaineers. At that time, only one of the Great Four—McKinley...
Everest, cross-border traverses. Everest traverses seem to have become the latest fashion, with an unprecedented four successfully completed in the spring season. Three had received permission from both the Chinese and Nepalese authorities; one ha...
Millions of stars stabbed through the darkness; a dusty ledge was our bed, stones our pillows. Inadequate bivy gear and general gumbiness were turning my first Yosemite climb with Max Hasson into an epic. Up with the dawn, Max threw himself at the...
Climbs from Ape Lake, Coast Range. Fourteen members of the British Columbia Mountaineering Club were flown to Ape Lake by A.A.C. member Roger Dane from his Chilanko Lodge near Kleena Kleene on July 18 and 19. Since there were three unclimbed peaks...
Incidence of Acute Mountain SicknessA Study of Winter Visitors to Six Colorado ResortsCharles S. Houston, M.D.MANY THINK OF altitude illness as an uncommon affliction of foolhardy mountaineers but the steadily increasing interest in skiing, hiking...
Cordillera Raura.1 On September 28 the Scot Frank Hepburn and I climbed the survey point Juraopata (c. 5000 meters or 16,404 feet) but its easy western slopes from the incipient mine, Uchuc Chacua, six miles northeast of Oyón in the southeastern C...
WEATHER, EXPOSURE, FAILURE TO TURN BACKCalifornia, Mount ShastaEarly Monday morning April 10, Craig Hiemstra (38) and John “Zippo” Miksits (45), both experienced climbers, set out from the Bunny Flat Trailhead in beautiful weather to climb Mt. Sha...
Northern Pickets Traverse. No matter how content with success a climber gets atop the heights, the compulsion to gaze from one summit to the next goal is irresistible. In 2003 we had just completed my dream traverse over all 14 summits of the inde...
PULMONARY EDEMA, PARTY SEPARATED, IMPROPER MEDICATION Alaska, Mount McKinleyAt 0930 on April 24,1983, Manfred Kessler (38), Wilfred Stelzhammer and Gebhard Fritz (an Austrian expedition) were flown onto the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier t...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDBritish Columbia, Dowler Range, Mount Dougie DowlerN.S. (25) departed around noon on November 26, from Quadra Island by boat and landed at the most easterly of three creeks on the south side of Bute Inlet to...
La Dama Blanca and Grupo La Paz, East Summit, Ascents. Jose Carlos Tamayo and I left Puerto Natales on November 13 in our sea kayaks, pointing our bows toward Resi Fjord. The Cordillera Sarmiento de Gamboa was our final destination. Meanwhile, our...
The Colossus of Cannonville, first ascent, Nonplussed on Dust on Crust. This tower is located just outside Kodachrome Basin State Park, a few miles southeast of Bryce Canyon. Access is through the state park, where rock climbing is not allowed, bu...
The Mountain of My Fear, by David Roberts. New York: Vanguard Press, 1968. 157 pages, 11 photographs, 3 maps. Price: $5.95.Mount Huntington erupts from the floor of the Ruth Glacier like a glistening saber thrust through the upper mantle of the ea...
Leo Pargial. A 10-man team from the National Corps of Cadets (of India) was led by Major Kiran Kumar. The peak was climbed on September 27 by deputy leader Captain Lakhan Singh, four cadets and two non-commissioned officers. On the following day M...
One Summer: Bouldering in the Peak with Ben Moon. Ben Moon and Ben Pritchard. Sheffield Independent Film, Ltd., 1994. Video, 50 minutes. $19.95.Three Weeks & a Day, Starring Dale Goddard and Boone Speed. Redpoint Films, 1995. Video, 70 minutes...
South Howser Tower, Catalonian Route, first free ascent. There we were, back in the Bugaboos, in August, on another blue-sky day. Beginning in the dark, we were excited. Not sure what we were up against or where the Catalonian Route (VI 5.10 A2) w...