Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna South, Southeast Face and East Ridge

Annapurna South, Southeast Face and East Ridge. Our Colorado Outward Bound School expedition, composed of Jess Bell, Brown Cannon, Jr., Dr. Peter Brumbaugh, Dr. Dave Weaver, Ken Talmage, Peter Athans and me, walked to the Annapurna Sanctuary from ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Venezuela, Acopán Tepui, Pizza, Chocolate, y Cerveza

Acopán Tepui, Unate Arête (a.k.a. Racquel Welsh Arête). Louise Thomas, Dave Turnball, Steve Mayers, and I traveled from St. Elena after meeting up with Alfredo Rangel, a local climber who had climbed at Acopán with John and Anne Arran. After flyin...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, Diamond, Long's Peak

Diamond, Longs Peak. In late May Dan McClure and I finished a previously attempted new route to the right of the Westbay-Dunn route. One bolt was placed. The climb was stretched over a period of four days, due to a two-day storm which provided sub...


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table I

Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Number of Persons InvolvedInjuredKilledYearUSA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.19511421103 —1952293217131953242714121954324231819553439266195646715113195745532818195832382211195942—256— 228— 019— 2196047— 463 — 1235— ...


Club Activities AAJ
McGill Outing Club

McGill Outing Club. The McGill Outing Club in 1972 enjoyed another very active year of rock climbing and mountaineering both within and outside of La Belle Province. The annual Fall Climbing School was well attended with over 50 new participants t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Elephant's Tooth, Albatross, and Caliban North America, United States, Alaska, Brooks Range, Arrigetch Peaks

On July 13, 1993, Lorna Corson and I were landed at Circle Lake in the Arrigetch Peaks. After hiking two loads up Arrigetch Creek, we climbed a 5.7 route on the south face of Elephant’s Tooth on July 17. On July 20, we climbed what is probably a n...

| Published 1993 | Author Norm Larson


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice, Equipment Failure, Exceeding Abilities, Roped but not Belayed, Inadequate Equipment, Inexperience, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Andromeda

FALL ON ICE, EQUIPMENT FAILURE, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, ROPED BUT NOT BELAYED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount AndromedaOn October 7, 1991, Andrew H. and Janies H. climbed the east ridge of Mount Andromeda and reache...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Baintha Brakk (Ogre) Attempt

Baintha Brakk (Ogre) Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Herbert Jans, Reiner Pickl, Christoph Kruis, Christoph Krah, Kalus-Peter Popall and me. We hoped to make the first ascent of Baintha Brakk from the Choktoi Glacier. Base Camp was at 4650...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Karakorma, Panmah Muztagh, Great Trango (6,257m), northwest face attempt

Great Trango (6,257m), northwest face attempt. Four mountaineers from the Ukraine, Alexander Lavrinenko, Vladimir Mogila, Vitali Yarichveski, and Alexey Zhilin planned to try a new route up the huge northwest face of Great Trango left of the exist...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier Area, Noshaq

Noshaq. Of our group of nine, six reached the summit of Noshaq in July by the normal route: Ruth Steinmann, Swiss; Walter Knezicek and I, Austrians; Udo Daigger and Ernst Henniger, Germans; and Bernard Ruby, French.Erich Vanis, Österreichischer Al...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Ganesh III Attempt

Ganesh III Attempt. Kim Jong-Min led a group of eight South Koreans who attempted to climb the northeast spur to the north face of Ganesh III (7110 meters, 23,327 feet). On April 20, they reached a high point of 6820 meters.Elizabeth Hawley


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Cerro Torre Attempt from the South

Cerro Torre Attempt from the South. Englishman Andy Parkin and Frenchman François Marsigny hoped to climb Cerro Torre by a new route by reaching the Collado de Esperanza (Col of Hope) between Cerro Torre and Adela Norte from the south side and the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Himachal Pradesh, M-10 Ascent and Mulkila and M-5 Attempts

M-10 Ascent and Mulkila and M-5 Attempts. A team from Bombay led by Dhiren Pania climbed M-10 (5730 meters, 18,800 feet), which rises above the Milang Glacier. Vinit Rao and Tikam Ram Thakur reached the summit on September 1. Nandu Joshi and Arti ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Victorious Mountaineer

Victorious Mountaineer. A memoir of Harry Peirce Nichols, 1850-1940, by W. Bertrand Stevens. 8vo., 78 pages with 7 wood cuts. Louisville: The Cloister Press, 1943. Price $1.00.This attractive brochure, written by Bishop W. B. Stevens, gives a succ...


Notes AAJ
Studies Made During 1933, Snowfall Record

SNOWFALL RECORDThe value of these studies on glaciers in California is greatly enhanced by the fact that systematic measurements of snowfall are now made periodically by the California Cooperative Snow Surveys. These show that in 1932 the snowfall...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal — Khumbu Section, Cho Oyu (8188m), Southeast Face

One of the most remarkable pre-monsoon ascents was the new route on the southeast face of Cho Oyu by Boris Dedeshko and Denis Urubko. The Kazakhs climbed the face to the left of the 1985 Polish Southeast Pillar, joining it at ca 8,000m. Climbing a...

| Published N/A


Accident Reports ANAM
Darkness, Stranded, Rappel Error—Rope Jammed, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Red Garden Wall

DARKNESS, STRANDED, RAPPEL ERROR—ROPE JAMMEDColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Red Garden WallOn February 18, two climbers (one 24) became stranded when darkness fell and their rappel rope jammed on Red Garden Wall. They made a fire to keep war...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Cho Oyu, Oiarzabal Record

Cho Oyu, Oiarzabal record. In the post monsoon of 2003 Cho Oyu was attempted by 36 teams, ranging in size from one to 24 members. The mountain can expect even more teams in the autumn of 2004 to mark the 50th anniversary of its first ascent on Oct...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Shisha Pangma, Southwest Face, 1991

Shisha Pangma, Southwest Face, 1991. A South Korean expedition led by Oh In-Hwan repeated the British line on the southwest face of Shisha Pangma. The main summit was reached on October 8, 1991 by Kim Chang-Seon (his fourth 8000er) and Kim Jae-Soo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Tetons, Crooked Thumb, West Ridge, Tetons

Crooked Thumb, West Ridge, Tetons. Robert Irvine and Tom Kimbrough climbed this distinct ridge on July 28 in nine pitches plus considerable scrambling. From the drainage separating this ridge from the prominent northwest ridge of Teewinot, a consi...