Harvard Mountaineering Club. The last four years have been active ones for the Harvard Mountaineering club, both in local climbing and in small expeditions. A new issue (Number 21) of the club’s journal, Harvard Mountaineering, has just been publi...
During our successful trip to Taghia in 2008 (AAJ 2009), we discovered an untouched wall in the Tadrarate Canyon. Situated between the classics La Rouge Berbère (560m of climbing, 14 pitches, 7b, Guillaume-Ravier-Thivel, 2002) and Sul filo della N...
Broad Peak, Northwest Ridge, Traverse of the North, Central and Main Summits. From July 13 to 18 Jerzy Kukuczka and I made a new route on the unclimbed northwest ridge of Broad Peak. This is only the second route till now on this mountain since it...
STRANDED, LOST, PARTY SEPARATED—DISAGREEMENTNew Hampshire, Mount WashingtonIn January of 1989, two climbers (30ish) completed the Pinnacle Gully route and bivouacked at the top of it. The next morning, the two parted ways because they were not get...
Shuntavi ButteWilliam MarchThe TRIP BEGAN uneventfully until we collided with a large skunk while travelling west on Highway I-70 from Denver. The cloying stench accompanied us all the way to Zion National Park. Our plan was to climb the north fac...
SLIP ON ROCK – FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS, CAM PULLED OUT, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESNorth Carolina, Jackson County, Gray's RidgeChris Wilcox (35) and Scott Philyaw (52), both experienced climbers, had busy home and work lives th...
The Learning ProcessLiving the dreamIan Parnell, EnglandThe year 2000 was my chance to live the dream, to quit my job and head to the hills. In Britain, we have what I believe is the finest grant funding system for mountaineering in the world. The...
The Sandstone Towers of Tigray. The province of Tigray, in northern Ethiopia, is a region of sandstone mountains and high desert; it has been compared to Arizona. It may seem an unlikely place to go climbing. Apart from being close to the troubled...
Traleika Glacier area, Mount McKinley Range. The Parachute Brigade Alaska Expedition, consisting of Captain W. M. M. Deacock, second-in- command and meteorologist, Captain J. D. Kinloch, doctor; Lieutenant Ord Pritchard, photographer, with Captain...
Das Buch von Nanga Parbat: Die Geschichte seiner Besteigung 1895-1953, by G. O. Dyhrenfurth. 197 pages, with 133 photographs, 2 maps. Munchen: Nymphenburger Verlagshandlung, 1954. Price, D. M. 6.80.The ascent of Nanga Parbat, July 3, 1953, was giv...
Despite our general policy of not reviewing how-to manuals and guidebooks, at least two titles stand out as exceptional: Mark F. Twight’s Extreme Alpinism: Climbing Light Fast, & High is a manual for accomplished climbers who want to push to t...
Peaks and Lamas, by Marco Pallis. 8 vo.; 423 pages, with illustrations and maps. London: Cassell & Co., 1939. Price 18s.Subjectively the account of two Himalayan expeditions in 1933 and 1936, including the ascent of Riwo Pargyul (22,210 ft.) a...
This is the ninth annual report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club and presents the known mountaineering accidents that occurred in the United States and Alaska in 1955. In addition, an accident that occurred in late December, 195...
BOLT FAILURE—Arizona, Pinnacle Peak. The Requiem is a predominantly aid climb located just to the north of the standard route on Pinnacle Peak’s east face. Originally, this route was one pitch, the climbers penduluming off the uppermost bolt into ...
An Appeal to ReasonWalter A. WoodELEVEN persons are known to have been killed in North American climbing accidents during 1947. As many more may have died in accidents not yet reported to the American Alpine Club. But for the intervention of Provi...
This is the forty-ninth issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering, published by the AAC, and the eighteenth that has been done with The Alpine Club of Canada.Canada: The wet summer of 1995 suppressed climbing activity, especially mountai...
The Climb of the CenturyRick SylvesterFOR SEVENTEEN YEARS I’d kept as secret as a blabbermouth like me could an idea for a first ascent in Yosemite Valley. Each year first ascents seem increasingly hard to come by, especially in areas as popular a...
Ratong Valley, Tieng Kg, new route Merenge Bilinbolonka; and Phori, possible first ascent. Spanish Basque climbers Garo Azuke and I climbed in western Sikkim during October. Our intended objective was an ascent of the virgin east face of Kabru Sou...
Sierra Club. Ever since the Sierra Club was founded in 1892 by John Muir (later a charter member of the A.A.C.) and others, its principal purpose has been to encourage conservation of our natural scenic and mountain resources.* Thus, in the last y...
A.A.C., Cascade Section. Forty-two consecutive days without rain in the Cascades during July and August coupled with a beautiful fall made for outstanding local climbing for the Cascade Section. As usual, our members compiled an impressive list of...