Umanak Fjord, West Greenland. A party from England sailed in Mischief to this region at latitude 71° 30’ N., leaving May 14 and arriving at Igdlorssuit July 18. This is a small Esquimo settlement on Ubekendt Island, but for a party which has to hi...
Ganesh II Attempt. A joint expedition of four Swiss and two Nepalese was led by Peter Molinari. They attempted the southeast face to the south ridge but on October 16 failed to get higher than 20,000 feet. They had only one camp (18,500 feet) abov...
“Little Mac Spire”. On June 19, naïvely contemplating a one-day east-west traverse of all the McMillan Spires, Bill Sumner and I made the first ascent of this unnamed pinnacle immediately east of East McMillan Spire in the Southern Pickets, via a ...
Ganesh II. A joint Japanese-Nepalese expedition made the first ascent of Ganesh II (23,458 feet) under the leadership of Takeo Ohmori. They tried the southeast ridge but found it difficult and turned to the north face. On October 19 the climbing l...
Noshaq. Two Austrian expeditions, one from Styria composed of Dr. Gerald Gruber, Dr. Rudolf Pischinger, Norbert Zernig, Sepp Weber, and Manfred Schober and the other from Upper Austria composed of Hans Pilz, Matthias Hofpointner, Siegfried Jungmai...
Annapurna Tragedy. A three-man Japanese expedition was attempting Annapurna via the Dutch rib when on October 18 Camp II was buried by an avalanche. Susumu Akimatsu and Miko Ono died but Takashi Ozaki escaped.Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club, and...
Mt. Sergeant Robinson, north face. Cash Joyce and Carl Oswald, who has been extremely active in putting up routes in the western and northwestern Chugach over the last few years, did a 12-hour blitz of the previously unclimbed north face of Mt. Se...
P 12,360 and Others, Mount Hayes Group. The Kansai University expedition was composed of Yoshimi Miyamoto, Hajime Naemura, Hiroshi Anzawa, Shigefumi Matsumoto and me as leader. Three of us left Paxson for Mount Hayes on June 16 by plane, but the p...
On May 2 Paul Roderick of Talkeetna Air Taxi landed Cody Arnold, Peter Haeussler, and I, all from Anchorage, at 5,600' on the northwest fork of the Coffee Glacier. Over the next four days we made an attempt on the west ridge of Broken Tooth. Start...
A.A.C., Cascade Section. Membership in the Section increased to over 100 members with the addition of several new climbers to the roster. Most members were active throughout the summer both within the United States and elsewhere. Trips were made t...
Huascarán Norte, Canine Ascent. From August 27 to 30, José Ignacio Ramírez and I ascended Huascarán Norte via the Garganta. Two dogs from Musho accompanied us during the whole ascent and got to the summit with us on the 29th. It was surprising to ...
Mir Samir. Two expeditions, Kohtaro Ohyama, leader, Yatuka Arita, Munechika Sawada, Yasumasa Ueno, Hironari Hirabayashi and Keizo Kohno of Meijo University and Shigeo Handa, leader, Minoru Hashimoto, Muto, Ishizuka and Otsuki of the Chukyo Alpine ...
Peak Nazarbaev, Mass Ascent. On July 6, our party of about 300 made the first ascent of Peak Nazarbaev (4376m) in the Zailiysky Alatau range above the city of Almaty. Peak Nazarbaev had not been climbed because it had not existed prior to July 6, ...
Fitz Roy, First Winter Ascent. Gabriel Ruiz, Eduardo Brenner and I made the first winter ascent of Fitz Roy, climbing it by the Supercouloir. Starting from the Piedra del Fraile, we spent the night of July 25 in a tent 100 meters below the couloir...
Kugssuatsiaq, South Greenland. The Leicester Polytechnic Students’ Greenland Expedition arrived in Nanortalik on July 11, travelling by air from Glasgow and by coastal ferry from Narssarsuaq. On July 19 we sailed overnight by fishing boat to the v...
Gangotri Region. An unnamed and unclimbed peak of 19,200 feet in the Gangotri region was climbed by Dr. G.R. Patwardhan, Kripal Singh, Sr., Kripal Singh, Jr., and Padam Dutta on May 26. They had established Base Camp on May 23 on the left bank of ...
Baruntse Attempt. An international expedition failed to climb Baruntse by its southeast ridge. On May 10 and 13 Australians Kenneth Baldwin, leader John Finnigan, Theodore Hooy, Peter Land and Will Steffen, American Peter Hodge, and Nepalese Ongch...
FALL ON SNOW—UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS Colorado, Indian Peaks WildernessOn June 12, Mark Oveson (36) was traversing the snowfields between North Arapaho Peak and “Deshawa Peak” (point 12,800’ on the USGS map) when he slipped. H...
Cerro El Cóndor and Cerro Vallecitos, exploration and ascents. In January 1998 I directed an expedition to the high barren zone of the Catamarca province, in the northern Argentine Andes. We opened trail in virgin territory with a Ford XLT F-100. ...
FALLING ROCK LEDGE, WEATHER Nevada, Red RocksThis is a report from Gary Bocardc (37), director of a guide service in Alaska, who was climbing on March 18, 1987, between sessions at the annual Ski Industries America trade show in Las Vegas:This was...