Arwa Spires, north face, Fior di Vite, attempt. Three Spanish climbers, Rubén de Francisco, José Miguel Herrera, and Santiago Millán, attempted to make the second ascent of Fior di Vite on the north face of the central summit of the 6,193m Arwa Sp...
Mount Chamberlin, Brooks Range. In the A.A.J., 1970 a Bavarian expedition was given credit for the third ascent of Mount Chamberlin. Apparently the third ascent was made on July 5, 1969 by a party from the Seattle Mountaineers led by Sean Rice and...
Denali, Winter Ascents. Two winter ascents were made in the winter of 1997-’98, both of which merit considerable note. On January 16, 1998—when Denali receives five hours, 41 minutes of sunlight per day—Russians Artur Testov, 32, and Vladimir Anan...
Ice Climbing in Colorado. A number of new ice climbs were discovered and climbed in the winter season. Several icicles were found in Paradise Creek Canyon near Rifle. Jim Balog, Jim Logan and Jon Krakauer climbed Parachute. They ascended three pit...
Mt. Crosson, South Ridge, Previously Unreported. In May, 1996, Paul Ramsden (UK) and Andrew Brash (Canada) made the first ascent of the South Ridge of Mt. Crosson before continuing up the Sultana Ridge to the summit of Mt. Foraker. We climbed in a...
Summer 2002/2003 – Autumn 2004The Darran Mountains, Fiordland summary. The Darran Mountains are New Zealand’s greatest multi-pitch alpine rock venue. With technical diorite slabs and faces, occasional glacier approaches, and peaks up to 2,700m, th...
Lizard Head Peak, Northeast Corner. From July 21 to 24 Michael Jackson, Stephanie Petrilak and I climbed a new route on the 1800-foot northeast corner of Lizard Head Peak (12,842 feet). Each of the three previous unsuccessful attempts had high poi...
(1) Yoho-Waputik Group St. Nicholas Peak, 9616 ft. First ascent, June 27. J. M. Thorington, P. Kaufmann, From Bow Lake by way of the snow-field above the southern Bow glacier, and the east face, 4 hours. Descent of south arête and traverse to nor...
Mount Rainier, South Tahoma Glacier Headwall. The South Tahoma Glacier and its headwall which rises to Point Success on Mount Rainier had only recently been opened by the Park Service after a closure of over 15 years following the crash of a Marin...
British Empire Range, Ellesmere Island. Sponsored by the Explorer’s Club, this expedition was aimed at exploratory ski-mountaineering on the northern coast of Ellesmere Island, above latitude 82°N. Our four-man advance party including Van Cochran,...
Washington, Mt. Thompson—On September 2, Dave Bushley (19) and Robert Neiman (18) were approaching the summit on the N.E. shoulder of Mt. Thompson, and following the regular route. The terrain did not require skill, and they were unroped. Bushley,...
Manaslu Attempt. A French expedition to the east ridge of Manaslu led by Jean Fréhel failed on October 26 at nearly 25,000 feet after Pierre Beghin and Thierry Leroy were badly frostbitten in deep snow. The climb had been planned as a semi-alpine-...
Sermilik Fjord, South Greenland. An Austrian expedition led by Ernst Herzinger visited Sermilik Fjord in southwestern Greenland. They climbed eight mountains that were between 5000 and 7225 feet, some of extreme difficulty with mixed ice and rock.
Arizona, Catalina Mountains, Alamo Canyon. On November 12 Edward Reilly (17) and Bryan Castner were hiking and scrambling on the cliffs of Alamo Canyon. Reilly slipped and fell about 20 feet. He was also struck on the right ankle by a falling rock...
Mt. Mills, Northwest Ridge. Jackie Carroll and I climbed this spectacular ridge in an unintended two-day push from Rock Creek Lake. From Mills Lake we crested the North Ridge of Mt. Mills, only to find that our dog had followed us over 4th class g...
PULMONARY EDEMAAlaska, Mount McKinleyKarl Muck (45) was a member of the five-man Munchener Expedition on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley. The group flew onto the mountain on May 27 and made a carry to 16,000 feet on June 1. That evening, Muck ...
Annapurna I. An Austrian expedition led by Ernst Gritzner gave up attempting the French route on Annapurna I on May 8 after Rudolf Widmann was injured in an avalanche between Camps II and III.Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club
Fitz Roy Area, Various Ascents. On February 11, 1998, Rainer Treppter and two partners (all from Germany) summited Fitz Roy via the Royal Flush route (second ascent). On February 12, German Jens Richter and Jack Tigle (Scotland) climbed the Franco...
Spire Point, South Face. On September 14, Paul Karkiainen and I made the first ascent of the south face of 8220-foot Spire Point, 600 feet above the snow high over Cub Lake in the Dome Peak country. The route starts at a chimney west of the bottom...
Polish Expeditions in the Hindu Kush. There were in 1977 some 22 Polish expeditions in the Hindu Kush with 180 members. They achieved much in the way of climbing and science. The greatest problem now is the requirement to spend $20 (US) per man/da...