Kloochman Rock, Main Summit. In September Les Maxwell, Louis Ulrich, and Wally Juneau completed the “South Terrace Route.” About 200 feet east of the beginning of Route # 1 a short westerly scramble took them to an open chimney, followed by a west...
Caraz II (Caraz Este), North Face, and Artesonraju Tragedy. The first week of June brought us to Base Camp at 13,000 feet beside Jatuncocha, halfway up the Quebrada Santa Cruz. We spent a few days acclimatizing and reconnoitering the approaches to...
Vampire Spire, New Routes. During the first three weeks of August, Colorado climbers Pat Goodman, Nan Darkis and I traveled to Canada’s Northwest Territories to the Vampire Spires. Located 25 miles north of the Cirque of the Unclimbables in the Lo...
Peaks in the Cordillera Darwin, Tierra del Fuego and in Patagonia. Our yacht, the Eloisa, was a 60-foot, 34-ton ketch built of ferro cement and fitted with an 88-horse-power engine. It was built by the skipper, Ian Rennie, with the assistance of t...
W. V. Graham Matthews II 1921-2004I first knew Graham when I returned to Harvard College after World War II and found him enrolled at Harvard Law School. He had attended Exeter Academy (‘38) and Harvard College (graduating early with the class of ...
Helancoma, Huamarypayoc, 1981. Cordillera Urubamba. On March 13, 1981 Tom Hendrickson, leader, Nan Starbuck-Boardman, Wendy Weeks, and I entered the Cordillera Urubamba from the village of Tostayoc on the main Cuzco-Quillabamba road. We establishe...
Chuspi, Cordillera de Huaytapallana, and other peaks in Central Peru. While working with the Instituto Geofísico near Huancayo, established by the Carnegie Institution of Washington, I visited the Huaytapallana together with Bernard Frey and Marie...
World Climbing: Images from the Edge. Simon Carter. Blackheath, New South Wales, Australia: Onsight Photography and Publishing. 2005. 192 pages; 230 COLOR PHOTOS. $40.00.What makes a climbing photo a stunner is not necessarily the climber. Rather,...
Ascent of Peak 5784 and Kirov Peak Attempt. Five days after leaving Wales, we establish basecamp on a medial moraine at 3600 meters in the Kayindi valley. On July 9 John Cousins and I recon Col 4900, a long day mostly in deep snow. On July 12 John...
Mt. McKinley, Isis Face, second ascent. The few seconds seemed like eternity. There was no answer, only the glacier echoing our calls. I had this sour feeling that a tragedy might happen. After all these days of fighting together, it felt unfair.T...
LOSS OF CONTROL, VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, CLIMBING UNROPED, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Mount RainierAt 12:28 a.m. on February 7, 1981, Jeff Warren (20) called Paradise from Camp Muir on the emergency radio stating that there had be...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE ANCHOR SYSTEMCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Washington ColumnOn December 3, Andrew Morrison died when he fell several hundred feet from the South Face of Washington Column (Grade V, 11 pitches, 5.10a A2) in Yosemite Valley. ...
Where the Clouds Can Go. The autobiography of Conrad Kain. Edited, with additional chapters, by J. Monroe Thorington. 8 vo. ; xxiv + 462 pages, with index and 29 illustrations. New York: American Alpine Club, 1935. Price $3.00.Only the other eveni...
Miscellaneous Information Numbers Refer to Number of Persons Involved1951–63U.S.1959–63CAN.U.S.1964CAN.TerrainRock 424124112Snow23524212River2010Unknown 0000Ascent or Descent(River crossing not included)Ascent 30722396Descent 30713228Unknown 46120...
Mt. Hunter, Diamond Arête, second ascent. When Freddie Wilkinson asked what I thought about trying for the second ascent of Hunter’s Diamond Arête (2,000m, Alaska Grade 6, Donini-Tackle, 1985), I was pretty much hooked, as it had been a dream rout...
FALLING ROCK, POOR POSITIONCalifornia, Mount Shasta, Avalanche GulchOn June 8,1 (Tim Derouin) was climbing up Avalanche Gulch on Mount Shasta with Mike Chase and his brother Steve. The weather over the past few days had been quite unsettled and ve...
Yurac Janka, Guide to the Peruvian Andes, Part I, Cordilleras Blanca and Rosco, by John F. Ricker. Banff: Alpine Club of Canada, and New York: American Alpine Club. 1977. 180 pages, 4 maps (separate), 11 panoramas, 45 photographs, and sketch maps....
The American Alpine Club113 EAST 90TH STREET NEW YORK 28, N. Y.To All Lovers of Mountains:No mountaineer, looking back on the 1947 climbing season, can fail to be impressed and saddened by the shocking number of fatal and near-fatal accidents whic...
An Attempt on Mt. Wood, St. Elias RangeForesta Hodgson WoodPermission for the Third Wood Yukon Expedition having been granted by the Canadian authorities, we set out on June 27th for Seattle, Skagway and Whitehorse. Walter Wood, Anderson Bakewell,...
FALL ON ICE, EQUIPMENT FAILUREBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount FieldAt 1230 on December 31, 1985, two experienced ice climbers (39 and 30) were ascending Silk Tassel waterfall. They were about 15 meters up the ice route, when the leader (3...