AAC, Sierra Nevada Section. As we moved closer to the end of the 20th century, 1998 gave us some disconcerting glimpses of what climbers probably will encounter in the century to come. Facing the challenges of increasing commercialization of our n...
Colorado Climbing Notes, 1935Though perhaps not quite so brilliant as the 1933 and 1934 seasons, the 1935 climbing season in Colorado witnessed some important work and several first ascents. Mountaineers were again active in the San Juan, and of e...
Teebone Ridge traverse. This little-traveled piece of country lying ten miles northeast of Marblemount was fully traversed from one end to the other this past Labor Day weekend by our group of The Mountaineers from Everett. The party consisted of ...
A Survey of Andean AscentsPart II. Chile and ArgentinaEvelio Echevarría C.Included in this work are the Andean areas that have registered the oldest high mountain ascents in the history of mountaineering, dating back to before the 16th century, wh...
Mount Fay’s North FacePeter T. CarmanUPON first sight the best choice was obvious: the bulging, convex non-gulley of ice which flowed from the summit ridge of Mount Fay to the glacier below. What a strange sight — not a gulley of ice, rather a fro...
Cathedral Spires, Kichatna Mountains. We were four in the Kichatnas as usual, but while this was my third trip, it was the first for Bryan Becker, Rob Milne, and Andy Tuthill. The mood in Talkeetna when we arrived was dismal. Several parties had b...
The Mountain EnvironmentThe year in garbageby Brent Bishop and Chris NaumannEach year, climbers push the limit of what previously was thought possible in the mountains. Eight thousand-meter peaks, once considered the domain of only a handful of el...
Kangtega’s Northeast ButtressJay SmithMY OVERBOOTS WERE rapidly disintegrating before my eyes. No matter how I kicked and stomped, no warmth was generated to thaw the freezing Lincoln Logs where my toes were supposed to be.“My goddamn toes are fre...
LEIGH N. ORTENBURGER1929-1991On October 19, 1991, Leigh N. Ortenburger, who had survived over 40 years of active mountaineering in the world’s greatest mountain ranges, died in the firestorm that swept the Oakland, California hills and destroyed 3...
FALL, PROTECTION FAILURE, OFF ROUTE—California, Yosemite Valley. On April 30, Suzanne Carne (31) and John Carne (30) parked near Rixon’s Pinnacle at 7 a.m. and walked to what they thought was Lower Brother — Southwest Arrete. Mr. Carne did not thi...
Attempt on Yerupajá. The unsuccessful attempt of the Scottish Expedition of 1964 to Yerupajá (A.A.J., 1965, 12:2 p. 447) left two of its members anxious to prove a route that seemed feasible. The 1966 party consisted of Dez Hadlum, Ian Howell and ...
PROTECTION PULLED OUT, FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HAT California, Tuolumne Meadows, Stately Pleasure DomeOn June 7, 1996, Shannon Meredith, 25, and Dennis Papa decided to climb “West Country”, 5.7 PG, on Stately Pleasure Dome in Tuolumne Meadows. Shann...
Retinal Haemorrhage at AltitudeJohn R. Sutton, M.B., B.S., M.R.A.C.P., F.R.C.P.(C)*, Gary W. Gray, M.D., Ph.D., Murray McFadden, M.D., A.C. Peter Powles, M.B., B.S., F.R.A.C.P., F.R.C.P.(C) and Charles S. Houston, M.D.oN MOUNT LOGAN, Canada’s high...
Ascents in Bolivia. Our former contributor, Mr. Joseph Prem, sends a remarkable list of his ascents in 1939, followed by an article which will appear in the next issue of the Journal:June 30: First ascent of the Cerro de Santa Vela Cruz (5600 m.),...
Mount Thor, Chugach Range. The main and middle peaks of Mount Marcus Baker (13,176 and 12,850 feet) are separated by a drop of only 500 feet and thus may be considered peaks of the same mountain. Thirty years elapsed after Marcus Baker’s first asc...
Preserving the Cracks!Compiled by TOM FROSTWhatever liberates our spirit without giving us self control is disastrous — Goethe PITON crack deterioration as a result of repeated placement and removal of hard steel pitons is becoming a serious probl...
Mountaineers. In 1951 the annual outing of the Mountaineers, of Seattle, was held in the Olympics. The climbing group went to the Selkirks.Dee Molenaar
Southern Batura Mustagh, western Karakoram Range, Hunza. A Canadian party comprising Fred Roots, leader, Donald Lyon, John Ricker, Lisle Irwin, Donald Poole, Hermann Jamek, Momin Khalifa and Karl Tomm, arrived at Aliabad, Hunza on May 25 to invest...
The North Face Direct of Sondre TrolltindJohn Amatt, Alpine Climbing GroupAfter our ascent of the Trolltind Wall in 1965,* it seemed to me that Norway must be the site of future developments in technical climbing. Nowhere else outside America coul...
Gone with the WindA three~year struggle to climb the north pillar of Cerro Murallón, Patagonia.Stefan GlowaczSilence. Not the slightest trace of noise. Even Robert’s breath made no sound. Small clouds of mist escaped from his mouth at regular inte...