A.A.C., Alaska Section. This past year marked a resurgence of activity in the Section. Efforts to renew interest in the A.A.C. was rewarded by an increase in membership, the creation of a newsletter, and greater participation in Section committees...
Makalu, West Buttress Attempt. Our expedition, composed of Atxo Apellaniz, Juan Oiarzabal, Kike de Pablo and me as leader, began our approach march from Hille, which was made difficult because of snowstorms on the Barun La. We set up Base Camp and...
Blamann (Blamannen, 861m), north face. This face received considerable attention in 2008, due in part to the newly published guidebook Kvaloya: Selected Climbs, and also to the 2007 free ascent of the superb 10-pitch Arc- tandria at F8b by Austria...
Everest. Our expedition consisted of Robert Link and me as co-leaders, Steve Gall, Dave Carter, Darrin Goff, Hall and Amy Wendel, Dr. Kurt Pappenfus, five high-altitude Sherpas and three cooks. We established Base Camp on March 20. Once Sherpas ha...
FALLING ROCKS-DISLODGED BY PULLING ON ROPEUtah, Little Cottonwood Canyon, Church VaultsOn September 3, Gary Wholfarth (43) and two friends had been climbing in the Church Vaults area of Little Cottonwood Canyon. In the process of pulling their rop...
Anti Atlas, Tafraoute, new routes. It was a brilliant week of doing new routes on the quartzite around Tafraoute. Our last route was 340m, around 5.7 in difficulty with spectacular climbing. The complete team was Joe Brown, Claude Davies, Mike Mor...
The Technique of Mountaineering, by J. E. B. Wright. 144 pages, with 21 photographs, 132 drawings, and a glossary of mountaineering terms. London; Nicholas Kaye, 1955. Price, 10s 6d.A climbing manual such as this, written by a professional guide, ...
Torres del Paine, Paineta, Cerro Almirante Nieto, 1992. Our expedition was composed of Carlo Barbolini, Mario Vighetti, Angelo Pozzi, Alberto Rampini and me. On November 8, 9, 12, 13, 15 and 16, 1992, we opened a new route (UIAA VII+, A3) on the w...
Berlin Hindu Kush Expedition. On July 17 a heavily loaded Kombi-bus left West Berlin on a four-week trip through southern Europe and Asia for Afghanistan. Wolfgang von Hansemann, Dietrich Hasse, Johannes Winkler and I were off after a year and a h...
FALL ON SNOW, WEATHER, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Washington, Snoqualmie, Silver PeakOn June 17, this accident occurred while a party of 11 “Alpine Scramblers” were descending Silver Peak. Lori Levin (30) reported the following:The ...
Alpstein, by Walter Zuberbuhler. Teufen (Appenzell) : Arthur Nigli Ltd., 1956. 104 pages; 74 photographs by Herbert Maeder, end-paper map. Price Sw. fr. 18.80.The canton of Appenzell, including the district around the Alpstein, forms the character...
Alaska, Mount McKinley—Elton Thayer (27), George Argus (25), Leslie Viereck and Morton S. Wood successfully ascended the south peak via Ruth Glacier and the south buttress. They reached the top on May 15, 1954. The following day, May 16, they left...
Pt. 10,772 (The Beehive), South Face. In September John Gallagher, Erik Guss and "AJ" Helms hiked into the Beehive Basin to do an unknown route next to The Bulge. When we got there, a line immediately to the right of the bulge appeared more promis...
Gasherbrum I Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition, composed of four Japanese, Russian Igor Kurkov, Nepali Tsindi Dorje Sherpa and Austrians Gerhard Frossmann and me, was led by Dr. Makoto Hara. When we got to Base Camp in July, we discovered that th...
Dhaulagiri V. The success of the Okayama University Expedition was not just a lucky hit but the result of careful planning. In the 1974 pre-monsoon period three members of our expedition reconnoitered the mountain. We were able to get valuable inf...
Mount Shaughnessy, Selkirks. On August 8, Dr. Robert West and I decided to try Mount Shaughnessy (9320 feet), the only named peak of Glacier Park remaining unclimbed. Since we had both been turned back from it previously, Bob twice and myself once...
California, Berkeley—On April 3, 1955 Alfred E. Young (20) was involved in an accident at Pinnacle Rock, a site frequently used for training and practice by the Sierra Club. This, however, was a private climbing party and not sponsored or supervis...
Cho Oyu Ascent and Shisha Pangma Attempt. Spaniards Bartolomé Quetglas and Ramon Alfredo arrived at the Cho Oyu Base Camp on September 5. They placed Camps I and II at 6400 and 6900 meters. On September 28, Quetglas climbed to the summit. Alfredo ...
Stanley Peak, East Face. Nick Ellena and Heinz Kahl made the first ascent of the steep ice east face of Stanley ( 10,351 feet) on July 21.
Purkhang, first ascent. In the summer, a Japanese party was successful on Purkhang (6,120m) in Manang district north of a popular so-called trekking peak, Chulu West. Of its 11 members, eight, plus six Sherpas, succeeded via the west ridge on Augu...