Lhotse, Bulgarian Expedition. The Bulgarians had 18 members and seven Sherpas under the leadership of Christo Ivanov Prodanov. They set up their Khumbu Base Camp on March 23. Camps were established at 19,900, 22,300, 24,125 and 26,100 feet between...
Barron Saddle-Mt. Brewster Region, summary. It’s tempting to call the North Buttress of Mt. Hopkins (2,678m) a “last great problem” of the Barron Saddle-Mt. Brewster Region. However, that would be misleading, as it’s more the buttress being isolat...
Extreme Skiing in the Cordillera Blanca and Tsurup Oeste, Southwest Face. Eric Favret, André Genand and I skied the north face of Kitaraju on May 31. On June 8 we skied the northwest face of Alpamayo from the highest point we could, some 200 feet ...
Mt. Moroni, Voice from the Dust. In November Garrett Kemper, Tommy Chandler, and I climbed a new route (IV 5.11c) on the far south end of the southeast face of Mt. Moroni. A 200' splitter hand-and-finger crack, starting 60' above the ground, had c...
Forbidden Peak, Direct East Ridge. Over the Memorial Day weekend, Fred Beckey, Joe Hieb, Ed Cooper, and Don Claunch left Seattle for Cascade Pass country and Forbidden Peak, the majestic pyramid north of the Cascade valley. The true east ridge had...
Staunings Alper. The eight climbers of our expedition sailed in a ketch from Jan Mayen in the Faroe Islands and finally used the boat as Base Camp in the Damen inlet near Mestersvig. We made the following ascents. Jean-Marc Piron and Luc Ancion ma...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONOregon, Smith Rock, Lyon's ChairOn July 7, Christopher Ekstrom (22) was leading the first pitch of Lyon’s Chair in the Morning Glory Wall area of Smith Rock State Park. Lyon’s Chair is a three star route rated 5....
Chopicalqui, North Face, Mirton Novice Extreme. On July 20, Pavle Kozjek (Slovenia) climbed Mirton Novice Extreme (TD/ED, 5+ 90°, ca. 800m) on the north face of Chopicalqui (6354 m). (According to Brian Sharman’s Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca of...
Volcán San José, Winter Ascent. A large group made the first winter ascent Volcán San José from September 12 to 17. After leaving Lo Valdés, they placed camps at 2900, 3250, 3900 and 4520 meters. The women climbers were A. Barrientos, M. Chiozza, ...
Kluane National Park and Reserve, mountaineering summary. Weather in the Kluane Icefields during the 2006 climbing season was predictably unpredictable. As a result of sustained storms and snowfall, the Mt. Logan massif in particular saw fewer cli...
Major peaks: Grand Teton, fourteen ascents; Middle Teton, South Teton, and Teewinot each three; Nez Percé and Mt. Woodring each two; Mt. Owen, Mt. St. John, and Mt. Moran each one. Thus Buck Mountain and Mt. Wister were the only major peaks not cl...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park. On 10 August Greenblatt (19) and Robert Green (19) were practicing glissading in the couloir above Amphitheater Lake. According to Green, Greenblatt lost control. He slid a short distance into the rocks and spra...
Milne Land, correction, Hermelintop. The 2007 AAJ, pp. 198, reported a circumnavigation of Milne Land by a three-member British team. This team began its kayak journey from Hekla Havn, which was the 1891-2 over-wintering base used by a Dane, Carl ...
Bhagirathi II and Satopanth. Three Japanese, Akira Suzuki, Motomu Omiya and Hiroto Hisamatsu set up Base Camp at Nandanban at 14,700 feet on May 6, Advance Base at 16,075 feet and Camp I at 17,225 feet. After an attempt at a new route on Bhagirath...
Dhaulagiri II Attempt. A four-man Japanese expedition led by Shuichi Torii had hoped to climb the east ridge of Dhaulagiri II. They established three high camps. Frequent snowfall, strong winds and an exhausted food supply defeated them and they g...
Das Letzte im Fels, by Domenico Rudatis. Translated from the Italian by Emmeli Capuis and Max Rohrer. 8vo. ; 250 pages, including bibliography and index, with numerous route diagrams by the author. Munich: Gesellschaft Alpiner Bücherfreunde, 1936....
La Esfinge, Killa Quillay and variation. From July 24-31, Spanish climbers Ángel Olmos, Antonio L. Liria, and José M. Cancho climbed the east face via a new 17-pitch route, Killa Quillay (700m, VI 6b+ A2), located between Cruz del Sur (Bole-Karo, ...
Plumb Spire, North Triple Peak, Trinity Spire and Whiteout Spire, Kichatna Spires. Calvin Hebert and I flew to the Tatina Glacier on June 7 and stayed through July 2. The typical unsettled weather forced us to abandon our plans for a new Grade VI ...
Activity on the Nepalese 8000-ers in the Post-Monsoon. This was a poor season on Nepal’s 8000ers, even though all except one expedition attempted well-trodden routes. Seven expeditions went to Manaslu, four to Makalu, one each to Annapurna I and K...
Shivling Attempt and Satopanth North Ridge. Our expedition operated in two groups, Andreas Walder, Willi Wehinger, Walter Bell and I in the first and Dieter Blümel, Egon Haselwanter, Kurt Wolf, Gottfried Mayr and Traudl Stauder in the second. We a...