This is the seventeenth report of the Safety Committee and the fourth in conjunction with the Alpine Club of Canada. Data from accidents that occurred in 1962 and not previously reported have been included in the tabular material. An accident from...
Summit Chief Mountain, north face. On April 18 Colin Haley and I climbed a new snow and ice route (IV AI3) on Summit Chief Mountain’s north face. The route climbs roughly 2,000' up the center of the face, connecting ramps between two major snowfie...
Numerous attempts had been made on the Southwest or "Wishbone Arête” of Mt. Robson since the first try in 1913. In that year the Swiss guide Walter Schauffelberger led Basil S. Darling and H. H. Prouty to within 400 feet of the summit, but they we...
Winter Ice Climbs in the Canadian RockiesPeter Zvengrowski, Calgary Mountain ClubTHE winter of 1973-74 proved to be a very active one for climbing new waterfalls in the Canadian Rockies. The standards of free climbing were pushed farther than in t...
HAPE, HACE, AMSAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn May 4, the “Joyful Expedition,” led by Chun Byung-Tai, was flown to basecamp on the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier by Hudson Air Service. The eight man Korean expedition began their as...
North of DhaulagiriJohn S. HumphreysSo Dhaulagiri has finally been climbed, and of the seventeen 26,000ers in the vast arc of the Karakoram and Great Himalaya the number of untouched summits has been reduced to two. As the four of us sat on a high...
Canada: This was the year of the avalanche. In two incidents involving backcountry skiers 14 people died. Although these incidents did not involve climbers, the effect will be felt by the climbing community for years to come. Parks Canada is curre...
PrefaceOver the course of H. Adams Carter's 35-year tenure, The American Alpine Journal evolved as one might expect from an editor who was an expert skier, accomplished climber, and mountain scholar. Fluent in five languages, Ad relentlessly pursu...
Mt. Johnson, Tree House of Horror and Force Boyle. Zach Lee and I established the Tree House of Horror (12 pitches, IV 5.11) in winter 2007-08 with assistance from Bryan Bird and Jeff Richerds. This route is equipped with chains and can be rapped ...
BARRY C. BISHOP1932-1994Noted climber, scientist and scholar Barry C. Bishop was killed in a one-car accident on September 24, 1994. He lost control of his car outside of Pocatello, Idaho.When I try to paint a picture of my father, I am at a loss;...
Gasherbrum IV. A very strong Italian party under the leadership of Riccardo Cassin overcame extremely great climbing difficulties and made the first ascent of Gasherbrum IV (26,000 feet). On August 6 Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri left Camp VI at ...
THE MOUNTAIN. Getting there is never part of the fun. The car is crammed with gear, the occupants tucked in as afterthoughts. The urge to climb smoulders somewhere beneath a numbing apathy and the dust of the road. Perhaps the Alaska Highway ...
Caucasus, 1984. David Broadhead and I spent three weeks in the Baksan valley of the central Caucasus in the summer of 1984. We made ascents of Ushba North by its north ridge, the north face of Ullu-Kara-Tau, a traverse of Dongus-Orun and Nakra, an...
Ascents Along the AthabaskaFrancis S. NorthTHE highway from Jasper toward Lake Louise runs southward through the jackpine forests of the Athabaska River, past the great falls with rainbows in its spray, and on to the Sun- wapta Canyon. Near Milepo...
Mt. Waddington, possible variation and bushwhack from the sea. On July 28 Patrick Farrell and I began the approach to Mt. Waddington following the Mundays’ first 1926 attempt via Coola Creek. This journey proved to be unusual in several ways. Firs...
Gronau Nunatakker, first ascents. In August three undergraduates from Oxford University, Chris Abbott, Ben Spencer, and I, flew by ski-equipped plane to a glacier in the Gronau Nunatakker Range and made first ascents in largely unexplored territor...
Boating and Climbing in Skyring Waters THE art of mountaineering evolves rapidly; the achievement of the innovating climber is rapidly built upon. When the Nose of El Capitan was first climbed, nineteen years ago, it was an epic involving hu...
Mt. Roots, First Ascent. Approximately 850 nautical miles east-southeast of the Falkland Islands, the island of South Georgia is approximately 100 miles long and 30 miles wide and lies just outside the Antarctic Circle. A wet, cold, and hostile cl...
Amurí Tepui, Amurita. From September 13-19 we did our most adventurous big-wall expedition yet, making the all- free first ascent of Amurita (E7 6b), on the south face of Amurí Tepui. The 10- pitch route has sustained 5.12 climbing alongside a rem...
FALL ON ROCK, MISCOMMUNICATION-INADEQUATE BELAY, CLIMBERS UNKNOWN TO EACH OTHERMaine, Bald Mountain, Shag Crag, TightropeJed Piatt (29) of Dover, N.H., was in a group of experienced climbers when he fell from the route Tightrope (12d) on Bald Moun...