FALL ON SNOW, FALL INTO CREVASSE, CLIMBING UNROPEDWashington, Mount RainierOn July 18, 1985, Gregory Sloop (18) reported to the rangers that members of his climbing party were injured on the Kautz Glacier and needed help at the scene.Around 0800 t...
Japanese Everest Attempt. A Japanese expedition failed to climb Everest. The leader, Haruyuki Endo, who had successfully scaled Everest in October 1983, came again to the mountain with the hope of getting Miss Takeo Nagao to the summit as the firs...
The Great and Secret ShowThirty-nine days in the vertical realm by Warren HollingerClive Barker’s novel The Great and Secret Show asserts that there is a hallowed place of intense existence so pure and euphoric it can only be reached three times i...
Everest the Cruel Way. Joe Tasker. Eyre Methuen, London, 1981. 166 pages, black and white photographs. £6.95.This book by Joe Tasker describes the British 1981-82 winter attempt on the west ridge of Mount Everest. It is a grim story of eight comra...
Huaytapallana Karu. Owing to the new road, this little range has since 1968 lost much of its pleasant remoteness. In order to climb its central peaks I looked for a campsite at Pucará, high pastures above the valley of Otorongo, northwest of Abra ...
CONCLUSIONA perusal of these pages suggests that the enthusiastic cooperation of regional mountaineering and outdoor clubs and related agencies, in response to the “Appeal to Reason” circulated by the American Alpine Club three years ago, has begu...
P 3080 and P 3191. Upper South Arm of Kaskawulsh Glacier. The easiest access to the St. Elias Mountains is up Slims River and the Kaskawulsh Glacier. Again this year a French party explored the relatively unknown part of the range. We were Bernard...
For ten years Yvon Chouinard and Doug Tompkins had been eyeing what they called “Cerro Geezer”—an unnamed, unclimbed ca 7,500' mountain a few kilometers west of Cerro Jeinimeni. The peak is the highest in a small range on the northern margin of...
FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATNew Hampshire, Cathedral Ledge, Turner's FlakeThis afternoon (August 6) while I was belaying my girlfriend on the first pitch of Thin Air, I witnessed Doug M. (50+) take a leader fall on Turners Flake. It is estimated he f...
The Southwest Face of King PeakPersonal evolution on an overlooked gemby Joe JosephsonA profound form of love. This is how a long-time friend once described obsession. Ten years ago I used her words as a kinder, more acceptable justification for d...
Cerro Falso Ilse (2,512m GPS). Located on the eastern periphery of the Southern Patagonian Icefield, 3.7 km northwest of Cerro Gorra Blanca, Cerro Falso Ilse is mistakenly labeled Cerro Ilse on several old maps. The correct Cerro Ilse is farther n...
WEATHER, FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, RAPID ASCENT Alaska, Mount McKinleyThe British Denali Expedition of Chris Massey (39), John Lang (45), and Julian Dixon (37) flew onto the Kahiltna Glacier on May 1, 1989, to begin their ascent of the ...
HERBERT N. HULTGREN, M.D.1917 - 1997Herb Hultgren arguably made more important contributions to our understanding and management of mountain sickness than anyone in our lifetime. He was my friend and mentor for more than 30 years, and we did some ...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTCalifornia, Idyllwild, Suicide RockOn September 5, Trevor Mathews (21), suffered significant head trauma and remains in intensive care. His friend and climbing partner, Claire McKay (22), was treated and released...
Broad Peak and K2. An Italian group, “Quota 8000,” which has a six-year program to climb all fourteen 8000ers, had K2 and Broad Peak for its goal in 1986. The team consisted of Italians Agostino Da Polenza, leader, Marino Giacometti, Gianni Calcag...
Meseta de los Franceses, various first ascents. In July, Pablo Besser, Ismael Mena, Nicolás von Graevenitz, and I made the first winter ascent of Cerro Balmaceda, at southern end of Continental Icecap [see below]. From the summit the Tyndall Glaci...
Vinson Massif, summary and new normal route. A new record total of 157 people reached the summit of Vinson during the 2007-08 season, including at least 19 women. Most of the Vinson ascents were by a new variant to the normal route, detailed below...
Pangong Range, several ascents. A young team of soldiers from the crack 8 Mountain Division of the Indian Army made several ascents in the remote Pangong Range. These peaks lie close to the border with Tibet and are sandwiched between the Military...
GRACE HOEMAN, M D.1921–1971The most active climber in Alaska, Grace Hoeman, died at age 49 on April 12, 1971, in an avalanche on Eklutna Glacier near Anchorage. One companion perished with her; another survived.Grace Hoeman was born in Silver Beac...
Dhaulagiri Ascent and Tragedy. October 31 was a tragic day for our small expedition of four members. Lithuanian Dainius Makauskas, having reached the summit with Nuru Sherpa and me, disappeared on the descent. It was a bitter ending to our trip in...