Boating and Climbing in Skyring Waters THE art of mountaineering evolves rapidly; the achievement of the innovating climber is rapidly built upon. When the Nose of El Capitan was first climbed, nineteen years ago, it was an epic involving hu...
Mt. Roots, First Ascent. Approximately 850 nautical miles east-southeast of the Falkland Islands, the island of South Georgia is approximately 100 miles long and 30 miles wide and lies just outside the Antarctic Circle. A wet, cold, and hostile cl...
Amurí Tepui, Amurita. From September 13-19 we did our most adventurous big-wall expedition yet, making the all- free first ascent of Amurita (E7 6b), on the south face of Amurí Tepui. The 10- pitch route has sustained 5.12 climbing alongside a rem...
FALL ON ROCK, MISCOMMUNICATION-INADEQUATE BELAY, CLIMBERS UNKNOWN TO EACH OTHERMaine, Bald Mountain, Shag Crag, TightropeJed Piatt (29) of Dover, N.H., was in a group of experienced climbers when he fell from the route Tightrope (12d) on Bald Moun...
California: (4) Morro Rock, near Morro Bay. On 9 October 1950 Pvt. Miles T. Armstrong, member of an Army medical detachment at Camp Roberts, and two other soldiers narrowly escaped death while attempting to scale precipitous Morro Rock. Armstrong ...
Mt. Rainier Curtis Ridge Operation. On 13 June a party composed of Gary Fredrickson (27), Glen Fredrickson (20), George Dockery (37), Carl Moore (34), and Pete Sandstedt (22), began an ascent of Curtis Ridge via St. Elmo’s Pass. On Sunday 15 June ...
From our base camp on the glimmering shores of Sirki Khota Lake, Robert Rauch, Stefan Berger, and I spotted a logical line on the southwest face of 5,546m Serkhe Khollu, which is the main summit of the Serranias Serkhe and Murillo, situated betw...
Umarata and Other Peaks, 1984 and 1985. Important climbs have been belatedly filed with the Federación de Andinismo de Chile. In August 1984, 30 climbers, including four women, climbed in the Nevados de Quimsachata, in Lauca National Park on the C...
Mount Seattle—From Sea to SummitDonald J. Liska“When I saw the look on the pilot’s face, I really got scared.” Herb Staley spoke for all of us after our wild ride under the great tidewater ice-cliffs of the Hubbard Glacier. Our converted World-War...
Homathko, Essex, and Queen Bess, Coast Range. This fine area at the northern tip of the Homathko Snowfield had attracted us since we read the late Don Munday’s Canadian Alpine Journal account of his first ascent in 1942 of Mt. Queen Bess. He refer...
Cambridge ClimbingDavid Allan Robertson, Jr.IN 1657 one Joshua Poole, M.A., of Clare Hall, Cambridge, published his English Parnassus: Or a Help to English Poesie, which included “an ample treasury of phrases, and elegant expressions” properly app...
This is the twenty-fifth Annual Report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club and the twelfth in conjunction with the Alpine Club of Canada.Data from accidents not previously reported have been obtained and the statistical tables have...
Nangma Valley, Various Ascents. A team of six climbers (Mike Turner, Steve Mayers, Elfyn Jones, Di Lampard, Louise Thomas and Libby Peter) from North Wales, U.K., visited the Nangma Valley in the Hushe region of the Karakoram from July 25 to Augus...
INTERFERING WITH AGENCY FUNCTION" – UNNECESSARY HELICOPTER EVACUATIONAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 1st, a female Lithuanian climber (47) was air evacuated from the 14,200-foot camp on Denali’s West Buttress. NPS rangers made numerou...
Pucahirca Central and Pucaranra, Cordillera Blanca. The Franco-Swiss Expedition to the Andes 1957—Mlle. Françoise Birkigt, Mlle. Renée Colliard, Mme. Annette Lambert and M. Raymond Lambert, of Geneva; Mme. Claude Kogan, of Nice; Jean Lamy, of Lyon...
MOUNT Hess is 50 miles due south of home, Fairbanks, and is visible during clear weather. Its unclimbed north ridge runs straight toward us, beckoning our crampons. In May Steve Hackett, Tom Hillis and I set off. Horace Black landed us in his Su...
The Spanish Version of the K2 Tragedyby Xavier EguskitzaBased on the statements provided and corroborated by JOSÉ GARCÉSand LORENZO ORTAS, August 27, 1995A seven-strong expedition from the Spanish region of Aragón was formed by leader José (Pepe)...
Canada: Data and narratives not available from 2011. Visit alpineclubofcanada.ca/services/safety/index.html for information on the Alpine Club of Canada’s safety program.United States: We have created a new section in ANAM called “Know the Ropes: ...
Before Mount McKinley was first climbed in 1913, two expeditions made false claims for the honor. In 1906 Dr. Frederick Cook reported that his fast, light expedition had taken eight days to reach “the top of the continent.” Shortly after Cook...
Yosemite’s Last StandThe defense of the heritageby John Middendorf“Among all of the debates affecting America’s national parks, the most enduring— and most intense—is where to draw the line between preservation and use.’’—from the opening line of ...