Cerro Agua Negra, 1990. A very fine route, the southeast ridge of Cerro Agua Negra (5484 meters, 17,991 feet), near the international pass of the same name, had been attempted four times in the 1960s. Climbing alone, Roberto Pereira of San Juan ma...
Gasherbrum II, Ski Descent of South Face. After the other members of our expedition had to return to France, Pierre Mure-Ravaud and I reached the summit of Gasherbrum II on July 31 by the normal route. Also on the summit that day were members of a...
Fourteen-Hour Pinnacle. Jake Breitenbach and Sterling Neale made the first ascent on August 3 of this pinnacle which lies west of Ayres Crag # 5 and opposite the entrance to Valhalla Canyon. They ascended the south ridge. The first of three overha...
FALL ON AVALANCHE DEBRIS, FATIGUEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount RundleOn March 10, 1990, after completing ice climbs of Professor’s Gully and Under the Volcano, Greg G. was descending the slopes of Mount Rundle, which are broken by cliff bands. H...
Kabru. J. W. R. Kempe and G. C. G. Lewis in May ascended Kabru (24,075 ft.) from the northwest on the Nepalese side. This is a new route, since C. R. Cooke’s 1935 route led up from the Rathong Glacier in Sikkim.
Vasiliki Tower, South Face. Al Murdoch and Ed Cooper made this ascent in early June, following a direct line to the summit from the notch next to Burgundy Spire. Several hundred feet of enjoyable class 4 climbing were encountered. The last lead pr...
Annapurna East. (Señor Anglada explains that this is a distinct summit (26,333 feet) just east of Annapurna I. The Spaniards climbed a new route, east of that climbed by the French.) Emilio Civis and Manuel Martín crossed India with two trucks and...
New Routes on Juniper Mountain, Red Rock Canyon, Charleston Range. Two interesting climbs were done on Juniper Mountain. Blackjack Buttress, a sharp prow facing the desert to the east, was climbed to its mid-pinnacle section on February 1 and 2 (w...
Kanjut Sar. An Italian expedition under the leadership of Guido Monzino climbed Kanjut Sar (25,460 feet) by its southern side. This peak rises above a tributary of the Hispar Glacier. Eight guides from Valtournache, Jean Bich, Pierino and Pacifico...
El Capitan, Mirage. In September Jim Pettigrew, Kim Schmitz and I climbed a new route on the west face of El Capitan. The route lies between the West Face route and the Lurking Fear route. The apparently blank lower face required only 33 holes, th...
MacRobert’s Reply. Lady MacRobert, daughter of Dr. and Mrs. Workman of Himalayan fame, has donated a Stirling bomber to the British government in memory of her three sons, who lost their lives in air force action.
AVALANCHE, FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount DennisOn March 14, a party of three were climbing Guiness Gully (III, 4), a moderate ice route. The leader had completed the second pitch when a wet avalanche ca...
Pingora, East Face. Early on August 13 Harry Daley and I worked our way up the short stretch of talus below the east face of Pingora (11,884 feet). We walked up a series of broad, grassy ledges, bearing left and began climbing unroped up the easy ...
Himalchuli. The Meiji University Expedition was led by Toyozo Sugasawa in an attempt on the east ridge of Himalchuli (25,895 feet). This expedition had official permission for a reconnaissance but with permission to try for the summit if it seemed...
Broken Hand Pinnacle, Southwest Buttress. From our camp on the east side of Scott Lake, Ed Exum, Pete Koedt and I set out on September 12 at 8:00 A.M. to climb the 2500-foot buttress to whatever peak lay above. Although not completely sure what we...
Baboquivari Peak, I'itoi Dance. In April 2000 Jackie Carroll and I climbed a new route on the southwest face of Baboquivari Peak in Southern Arizona. It starts at the lowest point of the wall on a small buttress, between The Crystal Line and Times...
Zanskar Range. Our expedition climbed in the mountains due south of Leh. We ascended through a romantic gorge past Sumdo and Chogdo to the Chikorma La (17,000 feet), from which we could see our mountain group across the Mimoling Plain to the south...
Mount Russell, West Face. This route starts just right of the Rowell-Jones route, and left of a route I reported last year (A.A.J. 1986), in a left-leaning dihedral. After two pitches, I led up and left, crossing the Rowell-Jones to the base of a ...
Peaks Climbed by the India-Tibet Border Police. This continues the list begun under Garhwal: Ladakhi (17,525 feet, 5342 meters) September 9, 1970; Friendship (17,353 feet, 5289 meters) September 17, 1970; Gushu Pishu (18,725 feet, 5767 meters) Sep...
The Stump and Eye Tooth, various new routes. At the end of June, Renan Ozturk and I landed on the Ruth Glacier. This marked the first leg of our “Alakastan 2007” expedition. Renan and I had both been training for the mission by dialing in Freeride...