Incidence of Acute Mountain SicknessA Study of Winter Visitors to Six Colorado ResortsCharles S. Houston, M.D.MANY THINK OF altitude illness as an uncommon affliction of foolhardy mountaineers but the steadily increasing interest in skiing, hiking...
Cordillera Raura.1 On September 28 the Scot Frank Hepburn and I climbed the survey point Juraopata (c. 5000 meters or 16,404 feet) but its easy western slopes from the incipient mine, Uchuc Chacua, six miles northeast of Oyón in the southeastern C...
WEATHER, EXPOSURE, FAILURE TO TURN BACKCalifornia, Mount ShastaEarly Monday morning April 10, Craig Hiemstra (38) and John “Zippo” Miksits (45), both experienced climbers, set out from the Bunny Flat Trailhead in beautiful weather to climb Mt. Sha...
Northern Pickets Traverse. No matter how content with success a climber gets atop the heights, the compulsion to gaze from one summit to the next goal is irresistible. In 2003 we had just completed my dream traverse over all 14 summits of the inde...
PULMONARY EDEMA, PARTY SEPARATED, IMPROPER MEDICATION Alaska, Mount McKinleyAt 0930 on April 24,1983, Manfred Kessler (38), Wilfred Stelzhammer and Gebhard Fritz (an Austrian expedition) were flown onto the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier t...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDBritish Columbia, Dowler Range, Mount Dougie DowlerN.S. (25) departed around noon on November 26, from Quadra Island by boat and landed at the most easterly of three creeks on the south side of Bute Inlet to...
La Dama Blanca and Grupo La Paz, East Summit, Ascents. Jose Carlos Tamayo and I left Puerto Natales on November 13 in our sea kayaks, pointing our bows toward Resi Fjord. The Cordillera Sarmiento de Gamboa was our final destination. Meanwhile, our...
The Colossus of Cannonville, first ascent, Nonplussed on Dust on Crust. This tower is located just outside Kodachrome Basin State Park, a few miles southeast of Bryce Canyon. Access is through the state park, where rock climbing is not allowed, bu...
The Mountain of My Fear, by David Roberts. New York: Vanguard Press, 1968. 157 pages, 11 photographs, 3 maps. Price: $5.95.Mount Huntington erupts from the floor of the Ruth Glacier like a glistening saber thrust through the upper mantle of the ea...
Leo Pargial. A 10-man team from the National Corps of Cadets (of India) was led by Major Kiran Kumar. The peak was climbed on September 27 by deputy leader Captain Lakhan Singh, four cadets and two non-commissioned officers. On the following day M...
One Summer: Bouldering in the Peak with Ben Moon. Ben Moon and Ben Pritchard. Sheffield Independent Film, Ltd., 1994. Video, 50 minutes. $19.95.Three Weeks & a Day, Starring Dale Goddard and Boone Speed. Redpoint Films, 1995. Video, 70 minutes...
South Howser Tower, Catalonian Route, first free ascent. There we were, back in the Bugaboos, in August, on another blue-sky day. Beginning in the dark, we were excited. Not sure what we were up against or where the Catalonian Route (VI 5.10 A2) w...
Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Persons InvolvedInjuredFatalitiesUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942256231019219604746412378194196149961144510144196271190164...
Cannon, Cathedral, Humphrey's and Whitehorse, A Rock Climber’s Guide, by Paul Ross and Chris Ellms. International Mountain Climbing School, Inc., North Conway, N.H., 1978. 157 pages, 15 cliff photographs, 16 climbers-in-action photographs, and 2 s...
Climbing the North Face of the North PalisadeNorman ClydeTHERE is no more spectacular peak in the Sierra Nevada, none more alluring to the mountaineer than the North Palisade. It rises to an elevation of 14,254 feet above sea-level among other pea...
Climbs in Southern Peru. In April, 1966 I made three first ascents in southern Peru solo. Though not challenging, the climbs in this region have the advantage of good weather when it is out of season for most Peruvian ranges. Though César Morales ...
Summary. After the incredibly dry summer of 2004, which turned faces like that of North Twin into rockfall-strafed nightmares and peaks like Mt. Alberta into overgrown scrambles, the summer of 2005 turned out to be one of the wettest on record. Th...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, BELAYER NOT ANCHOREDOregon, Smith Rock, SpidermanNathan Sanborn (27) was climbing the first pitch of Spiderman, a four star classic climb rated 5.7 by Alan Watts (trad gear to three inches) when he slipped off ...
The Man on the End of the Rope, by Paul Townend. New York: E. P. Dutton & Company, Inc. 1960. 256 pages, no illustrations. Price $3.00. This bit of mountaineering fiction could find a suitable spot in your library alongside Ullman’s White Towe...
Choktoi Glacier Area, Various Ascents. The team was composed of Luca Maspes, Emanuele Pellizzari, Massimo Sala and Gianni Zappa, plus geologist Paolo Biffi. We explored the Choktoi Glacier, which lays on the north side of the Latoks and ends at th...