Green River Area. In the isolated Green River regions west of Moab, James Garrett and Mike Pennings ventured out on the Horsethief Trail, then down the tightly descending switchbacks 2,000 feet to the bottom land at the edge of the Green. Their ad...
AVALANCHE, ROCKFALL, WARM WEATHERYukon Territory, Mount Logan, Early Bird ButtressOn May 19, 1993, three German climbers, L.S., S.V., and S.W., were established at an advanced base camp for an attempt on the Early Bird Buttress of the south face o...
Raksha Urai, attempt. During the post monsoon Phil Amos, Jim de Bank, myself and Simon Woods (all UK) together with Bryan Godfrey (New Zealand), and Graham Rowbotham (Canada) explored part of Far West Nepal with the intention of making the first a...
K2 Clean-Up. Mountain Wilderness, an international group based in Italy, undertook the Free K2 Expedition, which was dedicated not to climbing the mountain but rather to ridding it of the frightful amount of garbage which has accumulated there ove...
P 6225, above Bara Shigri Glacier, Attempt. Britons Christopher Chees- man, leader, James Andrew Winspear and James Richard Mason attempted this peak which rises south of the Chandra River in Lahul. After a sérac collapsed on their route, the fina...
Lhotse. After guiding on Everest, Rob Hall and I made a three-day ascent of Lhotse via the normal west-face route. We rested for two days at Base Camp and then on May 14 climbed to Camp II at 21,000 feet in the Western Cwm. On May 15, we ascended ...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE, OFF ROUTE, NO CLIMBING EXPERIENCEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Garnet CanyonOn July 20, Jillian Drow (21) fell to her death while descending into the South Fork of Garnet Canyon after an ascent of the Middle Tet...
Ulamertorssuaq, Moby Dick, and Nalumasortoq, Umwelten. It was reported that British climbers Mike Turner, Louise Thomas, Nigel Shepherd and Ian Wilson made a number of notable ascents in the Tasermiut Fjord. Mike Turner and Louise Thomas made a ra...
The Alps, Europe’s Mountain Heart (Ann Harbor: University of Michigan Press; $39.50), by longtime AAC members Nicholas and Nina Shoumatoff, is an “unusual synthesis” of wide ranging scholarship about all aspects of the Alps, unified by the authors...
The Gunks Guide. 2nd Edition. Chockstone Press, Evergreen, CO, 1990. 342 pages. Illustrated. Paperback. $19.95.A funny thing happened at the Gunks in 1986. Silhouettes of climbers dangling beneath overhangs suddenly were sleeker, less cluttered. T...
CEREBRAL EDEMAWashington, Mount RainierAt 1030 on June 16, the climbing team of volunteers Dave Turner, Jim Funsten, and I met Todd Auker (37) and his rope mates Dave Walters and Scott Weir on the summit of Mount Rainier, in mildly lousy weather. ...
Rocky Mountain National Park, Various First Ascents. Kath Pyke and I climbed a number of new routes in the major drainages of Rocky Mountain National Park in the summers of 1999 and 2000, contributing to the new-route development in the Park of th...
Nanga Parbat Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition was originally to be led by Arturo Santolaria, but he was injured in a traffic accident and I took over as leader. The other members were José Ramón Agraz, Joaquín Castillón, Lorenzo Ortiz and Antoni...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, NO HARD HATAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Tunnel MountainOn August 18, 1982, two brothers (22 and 14) from Calgary were attempting the Gooseberry Route (5.7) on Tunnel Mountain. The older one, who was leading, mis...
Dragontail Peak, Northwest Face, Stuart Range. On October 11, Alan Kearney and I climbed a new route on the northwest face of Dragontail via the prominent buttress between Serpentine Arête and the Boving route. We began in the huge corner system j...
Jongsang. This peak, which lies on or near the junction of Sikkim, Nepal, and Tibet, was climbed on June 11 by a 44-man team of the Eastern Command of the Indian Army. A first group under the leader, Captain Asok Pretap Singh reached the summit (7...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF NUTWyoming, TetonsOn August 24, 1982, Peter Miller (30) and Krag Unsoeld (26) were climbing the Guide’s Wall. Around 1300, Unsoeld was leading the “double cracks” pitch. As he climbed the pitch, he placed two nuts. He ran ...
Austrian Makalu Attempt. This five-man Austrian expedition led by Wilfried Studer ended with a permit for the west-pillar route on Makalu. They began climbing the normal northwest route for acclimatization before tackling the pillar. A French-Amer...
BAT BITENorth Carolina, Green CoveOn September 13, 1984, Edwina Wicker (20) was doing a top roped climb with her Outward Bound group when she was bitten on her middle finger by a bat. The bat, who was in a crack that several other climbers used, w...
Mount Logan and Mount Kennedy, Icefield Ranges. A number of expeditions were on Mount Logan in 1989. Coloradans Peter Smith, JoAnn Metzler, Timothy Lofgren, Larz Onsrud and Ed Cupp were on the mountain in April and three of them reached the summit...