Nuptse and Thamserku Attempts. Three Scots led by Malcolm Duff attempted the west ridges of both of these peaks in the post-monsoon but reached only 20,175 feet on Thamserku and 22,000 feet on Nuptse. One climber failed to acclimatize and technica...
Langar Zom, Main Peak. The Gakuyukai Alpine Club of Waseda University climbed at the head of the Ushko Glacier. Tanenori Tachibana was the leader and members were Riki Suzuki and Katsushi Noguchi; Captain Nasib was the liaison officer. After leavi...
Beatrice, Southeast Face, New Routes. It was reported that from the end of August to mid-September, a British team put up two separate new routes on Beatrice (ca.5800m) by its 750-meter-plus southeast face on the north side of the Charakusa Valley...
Diamond, Longs Peak, New Routes. Christopher Robin and Water- hole N° 3 are two new Grade V routes on the Diamond of Longs Peak. I did both solo, taking two days on each. These right-side routes begin with difficult nailing on the lower sections, ...
Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face Attempt. Because of sickness and frostbite suffered on the south face of Aconcagua, five of the planned Spanish expedition could not go to Nanga Parbat and only Luis Fraga could join me. After only two days’ march from Ram...
Aguja Rafael, West Face, and Saint Exupéry, North Face and Upper East Ridge. On January 25, my wife Sue Harrington and I climbed 14 pitches up the British-American route on the west face of Aguja Rafael, which has also at times been called Torre I...
California, Yosemite National Park. On 29 August Tom Gerughty (21) was cleaning the last pitch of Sickle Ledge Route on El Capitan while using Jumar ascenders. He reclipped the right Jumar at the start of the pendulums and the left Jumar released ...
Dhaulagiri Winter Attempt by Koreans. A Korean expedition led by Cho Jung-Sol ended its attempt on the normal northeast ridge on December 25 at 8025 meters, only 42 vertical meters below the summit. Strong wind and cold forced the summit-attack te...
South Kurai, various ascents. In May Marc Bullock, Matthew Freear, Tim Moss, Nancy Pickup, Michael “Spike” Reid, and David Tett traveled to the South Kurai, becoming almost certainly the first non-Soviet mountaineers to visit this area of the Sibe...
Everest Attempt. Our team included ten climbers: leader Thomas Fitzsimmons, Bob Berg, Jim Frush, Dave Hambly, Kurt Hanson, Ray Nichols, Greg Thompson, Warren Thompson, John Yaeger and me; two climbing doctors: Mike Colpitts and Anton Kakusa; four ...
Im Banne des Nanga Parbat. 80 pages of photographs, with foreword by Dr. Karl M. Herrligkoffer. München: J. F. Lehmanns Verlag, 1953. Price, D. M. 7.50.
FALL ON ROCKKentucky, Red River GorgeOn April 17 M. Tucker was climbing above bolt three when he fell approximately 30-40 feet while climbing Elephant Man (5.13b). He suffered fatal head injuries. (Source: Edited from: www.redriverclimbing.com
Everest, post monsoon attempts. In complete contrast to the spring, only three expeditions attempted Everest from the north. All were unsuccessful and no one managed to climb higher than 7800m. Two teams were on the standard North Col-north ridge ...
Mountain Holidays, by Janet Adam Smith. 194 pages, with two maps and 32 additional pages of illustrations. London: J. M. Dent and Sons Ltd., 1946. 15/-.Janet Adam Smith, like her husband, Michael Roberts, is known to many readers on both sides of ...
Famatina Ridge, La Rioja. This range is the highest of the Sierras Pampeanas, a Precambrian ridge. The major summit is Famatina or Cerro General Manuel Belgrano (6096 m).There are many minor summits around the principal. One of these, of 5800 mete...
The Beckoning Silence. Joe Simpson. Seattle:The Mountaineers Books, 2003. 315 pages. Paperback. $18.95.Of course Joe Simpson would have to cap off his climbing career with an ascent of the notorious north face of the Eiger. As anyone who’s followe...
The Mont Blanc Range Topo Guide. Volume 1. Michel Piola. Editions Equinoxe, Vernier, Switzerland, 1988. 207 pages. Maps, 30 black-and-white photographs. Softcover. Translated from the French by Jules Mills. French francs 111 (approx. $20).This exc...
FALL ON ICE, EQUIPMENT FAILURE—CARABINER, FALL ON ICEColorado, Vail, Rigid InseminatorOn December 7, Jim Amidon (31) and Joe Crotty (30), both experienced ice climbers, set out to ice climb in the Designator area. Around 2:00 PM Jim Amidon fell 85...
Tomurty, far eastern Tien Shan, first ascent. The National Defense Academy Alpine Club of Japan organized an expedition to the Tien Shan to commemorate its 50th anniversary. The objectives were to climb Tomurty (4,886m), the highest virgin peak in...
JOHN ANDREW McCOWN, II 1918-1945John McCown was born in Philadelphia on July 4th, 1918. He was educated at Wm. Penn Charter School, from which he graduated in 1936, having been a three-letter man as well as a member of the Senior Honorary Society....