ACUTE MOUNTAIN SICKNESS, ASCENDING TOO FAST, CLIMBING ALONE Alaska, Mount McKinleySung Hyun Baek (29) flew in on May 5, 1988, to join the Korean Alpine Club expedition on a climb of the Cassin Ridge of Denali. The Korean Alpine Club expedition had...
Gasherbrum II, Parachuting and Hang-Gliding. Among other exploits achieved by French climbers on Gasherbrum II, two impressive records were set. On July 11 Pierre Gévaux successfully descended by parachute from the summit. On July 14, Jean-Marc Bo...
New Routes in Peak Lake Cirque, Upper Green River. Stan Hilbert accompanied me on these climbs. Sulphur Peak, North Face: The route followed the prominent couloir leading to a chimney/crack line until 150 feet below a big roof in the crack where a...
Grand Teton, North Ridge. On July 31, Jake Breitenbach, Leon Sinclair, Irene Ortenburger, and Leigh Ortenburger made the first direct approach of the north shoulder of the Grand Teton from Valhalla Canyon. Although the rock was a trifle loose in p...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—ROPE ON TAPE, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Rock Gardens (Jasper)On April 5, 1990, around 1630, two climbers, Sean (17) and David (23), ventured off the Rock Gardens, a rock outcrop popular with the loca...
Alpamayo, Southwest Face. A very strong team of Italians, led by Casimiro Ferrari and composed of Angelo Zoia, Danilo Borgonovo, Pino Negri, Pinuccio Castelnovo and Dr. Sandro Liati supported by the industrialist Franco Busnelli, made the first as...
Abi Gamin. The Bengal Royal Engineers Kamet-Abi Gamin expedition under the leadership of Major N. D. Jayal made the second ascent of Abi Gamin (24,130 ft.) in Gahrwal. After getting to within 100 feet of the top on June 16th on the east ridge, a s...
Sharkfin Tower, South Face. Taking advantage of an unusually late year, Ed Cooper and Cecil Bailey climbed this face in early November. Fresh snow was reached at 5000 feet, and the depth increased to about three feet at 7500 feet. The traverse abo...
Spantik, ascent of 1987 British Descent Route. A small Japanese expedition climbed 7,028m Spantik from the northwest, repeating the Descent Route used by Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders after their historic ascent of the Golden Pillar in 1987. The...
Urkinmang, Langtang Himal. On November 8 Bill Roos, Judy Rearick, Larry Derby and I made the second ascent of Urkinmang (20,100 feet) by its west ridge. The day before the summit was reached, ropes were fixed on 600 feet of rock band which began a...
FALL ON ROCK, LOWERING ERROR – ROPE (TOO SHORT) SLIPPED THROUGH BELAY DEVICE (GRIGRI)Utah, Pine Creek CanyonOn May 9th, rescuers responded to a climbing accident near the Zion- Mount Carmel Tunnel. A 27-year-old man was on a route known as “Feast ...
Rainbow Mountain, Correction. On page 452 of A.A.J., 1976 it tells of a route climbed on March 3, 1975. This route was not done first at that time but had been done previously. Joe Herbst climbed it in early January, 1975, accompanied by Tom Kaufm...
Ascents of Mounts Duff, Wade and Surrounding Peaks. Our most notable climbs during a week of excellent weather were the apparent first ascents of Mount Duff, Mount Wade, and "Saddlehorn Spire" (the striking peak directly east of Mount Vern Ritchie...
AVALANCHE, WEATHERColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Flattop MountainOn November 1, 1992, Brad Farnan (30), Todd Martin (24) and two female climbers were practicing snow climbing techniques on the Central Couloir, Northwest Face of Flattop Mo...
AVALANCHE - TRIGGERED BY CLIMBERNew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Pinnacle GullyOn March 10 shortly after 10:30 a.m., a solo ice climber (31) fell approximately 1,150 feet after triggering an avalanche in Pinnacle Gully. The avalanche deposited him...
Siguang Ri. We had as members I. Sato, S. Fukuyama, Hideo Takebe, Nobuo Yagi, Dr. H. Tanaka, Hideo Oka, Y. Nishizawa (f), H. Ogura, Takashi Okuda, M. Yagura (f), M. Komatsu, K. Shimoda, Tatsuya Ogata, Takashi Miki and me as leader. Siguang Ri lies...
Thui Group, Hindu Raj. The Edinburgh Hindu Raj Expedition was composed of Dave Broadhead, George Gibson, Dave Page, Des Rubens and me. We traveled by jeep from Gilgit to Yasin and continued for four days through Thui and Sholtali to Base Camp at 1...
West Sikkim, Jopuno, west ridge.After 12 days of unstable March weather in the Thangsing Valley and an unsuccessful attempt on the northwest ridge of Tinchenkang (6,010m), Sarah DeMay, Sam Gardner, Josh Smith, and I turned to the aesthetic unclimb...
Disteghil Sar. A Swiss expedition was unable to ascend Disteghil Sar (25,868 feet). The leader, Raymond Lambert, was accompanied by his wife Annette, Marcel Bize, Claude Asper, Charles Jaquet, Italo Gamboni, Dr. Robert Marty, Mario Grossi and Andr...
The Town Wall. Behind the town of Index, northeast of Mount Index on the Stevens Pass highway, there are several large cliffs. The ones on the left are just quarries, and those on the right have too many bushes and trees; but the main, very wide c...