Virginia Glacier Expedition. In 1967, the writer led the Cape Dyer Arctic-Alpine Expedition into an unexplored area of arctic mountains west of Cape Dyer on the Cumberland Peninsula of Baffin Island (see AAJ, CAJ, 1968). At that time we approached...
Slick Rock, Crystal Basin. Placerville climbers have been doing new routes on Slick Rock this year (consult the USGS 15-foot map for Robbs Peak). To find the area, leave Highway 50 at Riverton via Ice House Road. A bit north of Jones Place, a road...
Organ Rock, Pilon’s Pillar. On Organ Rock, Pilon’s Pillar (V A5a 5.10) was soloed in November with three bolts. The route starts up Pele Nubian Sacrifice and goes straight up the overhanging east pillar. Although the crux has a 60-to 65-foot runou...
FALLING ROCK, INEXPERIENCE—Wyoming, The Tetons. On August 4, about 11:30 p.m. Doug Calloway (17) was climbing the Owen Spalding Route on the Grand Teton a short distance above the Upper Saddle. A rock was dislodged by his partner’s rope while the ...
Further note on Mankial expedition. A Pakistani group was in the Rosh Gol area before going to Mankial. The Briton Norman Norris, who was with them, climbed P 19,594 feet, five miles southeast of Saragarh Peak.Trevor H. Braham, Himalayan Club
FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS—GLISSADING New Hampshire, Frankenstein Cliff and Gulf of SlidesAt Frankenstein a woman was doing a seated glissade from just below Standard Route. She caught a crampon and was flipped face down for the remainder of the slide...
Castle Peak, North Face. Significantly peaking just over one mile south of the boundary from British Columbia, Castle Peak has an impressive 1500-foot north face. This feature, standing in firm granitic stock, displays three prominent buttresses, ...
FALL ON ROCK, HARNESS FAILURE California, Yosemite ValleyOn April 15, Sonny Cubillo (28) and David Wilson (19) were climbing the direct route on Reed Pinnacle. Cubillo was leading the second pitch, and was approximately 60 feet above his belayer w...
Longs Peak, Diamond. On August 7, 1967 Rick Petillo and I started a route between the Curving Vine and Diamond 7 routes on Longs Peak. Heat forced us to leave three leads fixed and return for water. On August 11 we returned to finish the route, wh...
Changping Valley, Thorn, first ascent; Falcon, first ascent; Camel Peak, southwest face, attempt. In October Josh Butson and I ventured to the Quonglai mountains, inspired by conversations with Charlie Fowler, Keith Brown, and information lifted f...
The Yellow Corner. This route, first climbed by Tom Fender and me in June, lies in a prominent overhanging corner between Bridalveil Fall and the Leaning Tower. Our ascent began in the right hand of two crack systems. The first pitch, which went a...
Dirt Band Project: Glacier du Géant. In 1947 this journal published an account of the laying out of a row of piles of small, brilliantly colored glass beads on the plateau of the Glacier du Géant.** It is expected that this row of beads, after bei...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESOntario, Milton, Buffalo CragOn Sunday, April 2, G.S. (56) was leading Tapestry, a one-pitch 5.8 rock climb. He placed good protection just before setting outwards over a small roof to tackle...
Cerro Torre Attempt. In February and March the British climbers, Ben Campbell-Kelly and Brian Wyvill, made an unsuccessful attempt to climb the 4500-foot-high east face of Cerro Torre. For the first 1000 feet they followed the Maestri-Egger route ...
On May 8, after having climbed McKinley by its West Buttress, the five members in our party—Kurt Bittlingmaier, Peter Hennig, Bernhard Segger, Lowell Smith and myself—returned to Base Camp on the east fork of Kahiltna Glacier. The next day, the se...
Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I), Southwest Ridge. In March we got permission for Gasherbrum I, Hidden Peak. It was only two months before the expedition left and it took great effort to put together money, food and gear. We were Janez Loncar, leader,...
Sierra Nevada Section. The Sierra Nevada Section was pleased to welcome over 130 new members, bringing total membership to over 800. The annual “Climbmunity” gatherings continued to be popular and well attended. The first was our January ice climb...
Fortress, Paine Group. In January Keith Myhill, Phil Burke and Mick Horlov climbed very nearly to the top of the east face of the Fortress. Two earlier attempts had been beaten off by bad weather. The final climb lasted for 13 days. The 6000-foot-...
Lhotse Attempt. Peter Hillary (New Zealand), Fred From (Australia), Paul Moores (U.K.) and I attempted Lhotse by the normal west-face route. We were sharing the route through the Khumbu Icefall with a large Canadian expedition intent on climbing t...
Pegish Zom and Noghor Zom. The expedition of the Rottenmann Section of the Austrian Alpine Club (ÖAV) was composed of Hans Gassner, leader, Sepp Peer and Fritz Iglar. They left Chitral on July 10 and Uzhnu on the 15th to get to Base Camp at 13,500...