Ice Climbing in Alaska. There is a growing interest in ice climbing in Alaska. Two areas have been getting most of the attention: Portage glacier and Thunderbird Falls. Terry Becker, Jim Hale, Gary Bocarde, Paul Denkewalter, and Peter Sennhauser h...
HvitLinje and other ascents. On November 25 Marius Olsen and I climbed a new ice line below and northeast of Poincenot. Hvit Linje (600m, WI5 85/90°) is visible from way out on the pampas as you approach Chalten by bus, the line melting down from ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION California, Yosemite ValleyOn August 16, 1988, Mark Peebles (23) fell while leading the seventh pitch on the regular route of the Northwest face of Half Dome. After leading from the belay, he entered a thin crac...
Both Sides of the Pyrenees, by Bernard Newman. 8vo, 224 pages with index, sketch maps, and illustrations from photographs. London: Herbert Jenkins, 1952.A middle-aged Englishman has written pleasantly about his bicycle tour, starting from Pau and ...
Mazamas. The climbing program in the Mazamas continued its expansion as it has each year since the war. There were 770 individual ascents—more than any previous year, and no accidents. The club’s climbing school expanded to an average attendance o...
Huandoy Norte, Northeast Face. Our party consisted of Michel Parmentier, Hubert Moreno, Alain Node Langlois, Evelyne Lyons, Laurence Arnaud, Michel’s sister Poupy Parmentier and me. We established Base Camp on July 15 at the foot of the east glaci...
Cordillera Apolobamba, 1992. Our expedition consisted of Ian Farmer, Steve Phillips, Rob Weight, Shona MacKenzie, Dr. Vivek Kulkarni and me as leader. We arrived in La Paz on June 26, 1992 and, after organizing food and transport, left for the Cor...
Shisha Pangma. Our nine-member Hungarian team climbed Shisha Pangma by the original route. We had a difficult journey to the mountain and back: Budapest-Moscow-Tashkent-Delhi-Kathmandu-Base Camp-Lhasa-Golmud Beijing-Ulan Bator-Moscow-Budapest, hal...
Stanford Alpine Club. The Club pursued a varied program during the past year, mixing local practice climbs with larger-scale ventures into the Sierra and beyond. The first day of spring vacation found three members at Glacier Lodge preparing for a...
Satopanth. Our team was made up of Gabriel Denamur, Mirosiaw Bukowski, Tomasz Samson, Dr. Tomasz Juda, Jadwiga Skawinska, Kazimierz Wszoiek, Mirosiaw Konewka, Emil Witos, Bogdan Remplakowski, Wladyslaw Janik and me as leader. Our original objectiv...
Fitz Roy Region, 1975. We can add a few names and details to the preliminary report given in A.A.J., 1975 on page 188. The Swiss who made a one-day ascent from the col of the American route on Fitz Roy in early 1975 were Hans Peter Trachsel, Paul ...
Rattlesnake Rock, Tumwater Canyon. This wall, located behind Piton Tower, was the scene of two new routes during the summer. The “Marlboro” route, climbed by Ed Cooper and Galen McBee started up almost behind Piton Tower, and proved to be medium-h...
Gasherbrum II. As in previous years, a large number of expeditions had Gasherbrum II (8035 meters, 26,362 feet) as their objective. Only three of them reached the summit. A six-member Swiss expedition was led by Nicole Niquille, the only woman of ...
Mukerbeh. An Indian all-woman expedition climbed Mukerbeh (19,910 feet). From Camp III on May 29 six women and two Sherpas climbed to the nearby summit of Manali Peak (18,600 feet). On May 30 two of the women, Thrity Birdy and Bharati Banerjee, an...
"Halleluja Peak.” This 7150-foot peak in Cascade Pass country, a mile southeast of Trapper Lake, has occasionally been referred to as the west peak of Glory Mountain, but the first ascent party of Ursula Wiener, Jim Whitcomb, Bob Briggs and me on ...
A.A.C., Oregon Section. Section activity continues to center around the four dinner meetings which are held quarterly. Chairman Carmie Dafoe gave an account of his expedition to Aconcagua, with an interesting analysis by Dr. Shults of the Universi...
Shivling Attempt and Tragedy. Our expedition to Shivling ended in tragedy. Mlle Odile Loncle fell 400 meters to her death. It happened at 5700 meters while we were moving up fixed rope between Camps II and III. We immediately gave up our attempt.Y...
Sierra Nevada de Cocuy, Southern Peaks. I used the upper valley of La Cueva to tackle several peaks in the southern half of this range. On December 23, 16-year-old Mateo López, a local hillman, and I, reached a point some 120 feet below the top of...
FALL FROM RAPPEL, UNCLIPPED FROM SAFETY LINE, NO HARD HAT Oregon, Camp BaldwinOn July 6, 1994, Adam Clark (17) was teaching a group of Boy Scouts—about 17 of them—how to rappel. According to the report, he unclipped from his safety line to adjust ...
South AmericaOur fellow-member, Mr. Anderson Bakewell, has compiled from the American Geographical Society’s Millionth Map, a list of the major peaks of Hispanic America. Names, locations, altitudes, climbing data and references make this a valuab...