Stok Kangri Region, Ladakh Himalaya. In 1976 Gretel Johnson and I spent the summer in the Ladakh Himalaya, exploring route possibilities in the Thadjiwas valley south of Sonamarg and in the Stok Kangri region near Leh. We both climbed Katzim Pahal...
Kwangde Shar, Northeast Spur, Attempt. It was reported that a British team led by Phil Wicken had hoped to make an ascent of Kwangde Nup (6035m), but unstable weather forced them to change their objective to the northeast spur of Kwangde Shar. The...
Liberty Bell Mountain, North Face Direct. After an unsuccessful attempt on the Red Gully last year, the stage was set on August 8 for Jim Yoder, Bob Vaughn and me to push up one of the last unclimbed faces on Liberty Bell. Third-classing up left o...
Middle Triple Peak, Kichatna Mountains, Attempt. In July Roy Kligfield, David Loeks and I were landed on the Tatina Glacier. Our main objective was the unclimbed Middle Triple Peak (8835 feet). Unfortunately we did not attempt the peak by the rout...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCEColorado, Grace FallsOn January 2, 1983, Chris Waydeveld (19) and Royal Laybourn had topped out on the 35-meter, near-vertical, Grace Falls in Rocky Mountain National Park. They were on low-angle water ic...
P 21,750, near Sri Kailas, Gangotri, 1979. After failing to climb Sri Kailas, an Indian expedition ascended P 21,750 (6629 meters), which lies west of it. In September 1979 Ranvir Singh, leader and high-altitude porters Narayan Singh and Gopal Sin...
Mountains of Starbird Ridge, Purcells. In August Kenneth and Corky Rinehart, Bob and Peg West, Dave West (12), Scott West (8) and Sandy Rinehart (5) visited the mountains of the Starbird Ridge between Forster and Horsethief creeks. We traveled by ...
Indian Creek. New routes continue to be established at a fast pace on the miles of Wingate Sandstone walls of Indian Creek. Details of approach may be researched in the Desert Rock climbing guide or information gained by writing to Eric Bjømstad, ...
Mt. Bradley, Season of the Sun; Mt. Church, Memorial Gate; Mt. Johnson, The Ladder Tube. Japanese climbers Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke Sato, and Tatsuro Yamada established three impressive new routes in the Ruth Gorge in April and early May. Season ...
The Bride. In a hidden canyon west of Moab stands a 300-foot sandstone tower known locally as “The Bride”, since its profile does resemble a lady and her bouquet. In the fall of 1970 Eric Bjørnstad and I climbed closely beneath the bouquet but did...
HAPE, PARTY SEPARTEDAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn May 28 at 0745, John Tatzalaff (39) of Team Springer Zissou requested NPS assistance at the 14,200-foot camp because he was experiencing difficulty breathing. A thorough examination by Pa...
On the Hills of the North, by J. Hubert Walker. Square 8vo., xv, 182 pp., 24 photographic illustrations, 6 maps. London, 1948: Oliver and Boyd. Price, 15/-.Mr. Walker’s new book describes his ramblings and scramblings among the highlands of the no...
Lhotse Shar Tragedy. The ten-man Spanish team’s attempt on the south face of Lhotse Shar ended abruptly when on October 30 Pedro Alonso fell 2400 meters to the bottom of the face from ten meters below the site for Camp IV at 7400 meters. He and th...
Itsoc Huanca, Dominguerismo Vertical. The wall is situated in the Quebrada Rurec. To get there obtain transport to Olleros. Here you can get burros to carry gear to base camp, four hours’ walk from town. Three hours into the hike the walls become ...
Panch Chuli III, Attempt. The virgin Panch Chuli III (6314m) was attempted from May-June by a young IMF team selected from all over India. The leader, S. Bhattacharya, was an experienced mountaineer from Delhi. They attempted the peak from the eas...
Trekking in the Himalayas. Stan Armington. Third Revised Edition. Lonely Planet Publications, South Yarra, Australia, 1982. 218 pages, black and white illustrations, maps, bibliography. $6.95.Contrary to the implication of the title, this book is ...
Nun and Kun. Of these twin peaks, Nun (23,410 feet), first climbed by French Mme Claude Kogan and Swiss Pierre Vittoz in 1953, is much more difficult than Kun (22,250 feet) first climbed in 1914. They were climbed this year by an expedition of the...
Fortaleza, Northwest Spur, Paine Group, 1989. Roberto Cazan, Fabio Bristot and I made a new route on the northwest spur of Fortaleza (2754 meters, 9038 feet). We were in the region from October 28 to November 30, 1989, generally with bad weather a...
Central Tower of Paine, South African Route. A team of six Mountain Club of South Africa members—Alard Hüfner, Mark Seuring, Michael Mason, Dermot Brogan, Marianne Pretorius, and Voitec Modrzewski—spent December 2003 and January 2004 climbing the ...
Huandoy Sur, South Face Attempt. Stevie Docherty, Sam Crymble, Ian Nicholson, Don Higgins, Ian Singleton and I as leader arrived in the Blanca on June 27. Camp I on the easterly moraine below the face was stocked by June 29. On the 30th we made an...