Gasherbrum II. Ours was the first commercial French expedition to an 8000er. We had three guides: Michel Vincent, Alberto Re and me. On July 11 Vincent, Re, Olivier Paulin, Theo Mayer, Pierre Gévaux, André Molinaire, Christian Frémont, all French ...
Squaretop. The right skyline of Squaretop when viewed from the Green River Lakes presents a 1800-foot sweep of excellent rock. When we arrived below the buttress after a hard approach, my brother Greg, Kent Christensen and I looked up in despair. ...
Middle Teton, North Face. To the east of the northwest chimney route, first climbed in 1955 by Goodrich and Reppy, is another similar chimney less attractive than the first and separated from it by a smooth face. From the Lower Saddle on July 30, ...
SLIP ON SNOW, INAPPROPRIATE EQUIPMENT/TECHNIQUEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount LefroyOn the morning of July 7, 1990, a party of two were descending the west face of Mount Lefroy, unroped. While glissading, sitting and wearing crampons, one of them...
Nevado Santa Cruz. We four, Jean Baehler, Claude Guinans, Serge Claudet and I, started our approach from Colcas, an hacienda above Caraz with one porter and ten donkeys. We took three days to go past the lake, Cullicocha, between 14,100- and 15,10...
Panch Chuli. P. W. Nikore, the leader of an Indian expedition on 27 May 1953 claims to have climbed Panch Chuli (22,255 ft.) in Garhwal in a two-day ascent from his high camp. The Scots had failed in 1950 and the Germans in 1951 on this mountain. ...
Sheep Gap Mountain, South Face. Tony Hovey and party climbed this face in midsummer, and found it to be primarily class 4. The Ram’s Horn, a subsidiary point, has also been climbed.
Hispar Sar, attempt. On September 17 the British Hispar Sar Expedition 2004 (Andy Parkin and myself) set up a base camp at Yutmal (a small ablation valley on the north of the Hispar Glacier to the west of the Yutmaru Glacier), after a two-and-a-ha...
Manaslu Women’s Expedition. The Japanese Women’s Manaslu Expedition was made up of Kyoko Sato, commander, Tsune Kuroishi, leader, Masko Uchida, Michiko Sekida, Mieko Mori, Masako Itakura, Mutsumi Natashima, Teiko Suzuki, Tomako Itoh, Shizu Harata,...
FALL OR SLIP ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTTennessee, Tennessee Wall, Blood-on-the-RocksFellow climbers and rescue crews evacuated an injured climber on January 25 at the Tennessee Wall after she took a serious leader fall.Jesse (22) was leading B...
Three Penguins, Arches National Park. In November Larry Bruce, Molly Higgins and I did two short new routes on the Three Penguins formation. A moderate pitch starting right at the road ends on a large ledge at the base of the Penguins themselves. ...
Ascents in the Ulu area. On June 28, Adam Kolff and his father Kees were landed by Kurt Gloyer of Gulf Air Taxi, Yakutat, on a 6,100-foot pass in the small isolated mountain sub-range 15 miles southeast of Mount Kennedy, Kluane National Park. Two ...
STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Lumpy RidgeOn September 2, 1992, at 1615, Nan Derkiss (30) and John Quackenbush became stranded when they got their rope stuck on the second pitch of Pear ...
STRANDEDNevada, Red Rock Canyon NCA, Black Velvet Canyon - Dream of Wild TurkeysOn November 26, two females became stuck between second and the top of the third pitch on Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a). They were stranded because their rope had lodg...
Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma, 1988. On page 283 of AAJ, 1989, it lists an ascent of Cho Oyu, by Noburu Yamada and three other Japanese on November 6, 1988. Actually there were two other Japanese: Teruo Saegusa and A. Yamamoto. Along with O. Shimuzu, ...
Nanga Parbat Attempt. The approach of the Felix Kuen Memorial Expedition, led by Dr. Karl Maria Herrligkoffer, was considerably complicated by their not being able to go along or cross the Karakoram Highway being built by the Chinese. Although the...
Kalanka, northeast face and central spur, Bushido; history. Kazuaki Amano, Fumitaka Ichimura, and Yusuke Sato made the first ascent since 1982 of 6,931m Kalanka. Their new 1,800m route, Bushido, started up the northeast face following a line attem...
Batura Muztagh. The Englishmen, Dr. Keith Warburton, leader, Harry Stephenson and Richard Knight and the Germans, Martin Günnel and Albert Hirschbichler, were last seen alive on June 23 in their Camp III (18,500 feet) in a difficult icefall above ...
Mount Stuart, Direct North Buttress. Fred Stanley and I made a variation of previous routes on this buttress, which consisted primarily of climbing head-on the 200-foot great gendarme high on the buttress. We used a crack system formed by a detach...
Picture Peak, Bishop Area. Rick Wheeler and I made a new route on Picture Peak above the Hungry Packer Lake basin, seven miles from Lake Sabrina. We decided to head for a hand-and-fist crack near the right center of the face. This runs parallel to...