Broad Peak. A 13-man Japanese expedition led by Michio Yasua made the second ascent of Broad Peak (26,400 feet) by the route first ascended by the Austrians in 1957. Base Camp was established at 16,000 feet on July 7. Camps I, II, III, and IV were...
Alaska Section. Our Section celebrated the summer of 2010 by commencing construction of the new hut on the edge of the Snowbird Glacier. Located in the Hatcher Pass area of the Talkeetna Mountains, the original hut was purchased by the Alaska Sect...
New Routes on Daff and Fairview Domes, Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite. On July 2 Bob Kamps and I climbed a new route on Daff Dome and called it “The Cooke Book” after the blacksmith-climber, Bruce Cooke. The route ascends the obvious left-facing open-...
Refugio Autocamping, Lago Viedma, Patagonia. On November 15 an inn opened on Lake Viedma near the foot of Fitz Roy at the northern end of the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. Not only will food and lodging be available there, but the management has ...
Lhotse Shar Attempt. In the pre-monsoon period Hans Berger led a Swiss expedition that attempted Lhotse Shar (8383 meters, 27,504 feet) by its southeast ridge, the Swiss route of the autumn of 1981. Only the four-man team carried loads above Camp ...
Kohe Lakhsh, Wakhan. An expedition from Southern France (Lyon and Nice) was led by Louis Dubost, who was accompanied by his wife, Bernard Denjoy and his wife, Paul Gendre and his wife, Mlle Suzanne Valentini, Mlle Bernard, Louis Gevril, Jacques Br...
On October 26 Zach Lee and I did a new route on the west face of the peak north of, and connected to, Bridge Mountain, The peak is officially unnamed but known locally as Sub Peak or Confluence Peak. We dubbed our effort Satan’s Waitin’, aft...
Longs Peak, East Face, La Dolce Vita. During three days in June, the famous Italian Renato Casarotto and I established a new route on the east face of Longs Peak. Starting from Mills Glacier, we took a line up the huge right-facing comer system ju...
Phunangma. The first ascent of Phunangma (22,272 feet) in Ladakh was made on August 4 by Captain F. C. Bahaduri, Naik Satish Kumar Thapa, Naik Sonam Tashi, Hav S. S. Bhandari and two Sherpas. The peak was climbed again on August 5 by Captain N. K....
First Across the Roof of the World, Traverse of the Himalaya. Graeme Dingle, Chewang Tashi and I formed the traverse party with other Indian and New Zealand members as a support team with which we rendezvoused every three or four weeks. Far more t...
National DefenceIn December, 1940, the cooperation of the American Alpine Club was invited by the United States Army. So far this cooperation has consisted of supplying the Army with information concerning equipment to be used in mountainous regio...
Gasherbrum II, First Iranian Ascent. Gasherbrum II was the first 8000-meter peak organized and climbed independently by Iranians. The ascent was via the normal route from the south in Pakistan. We set up four camps on the ascent: Base Camp (5200m)...
Black Canyon of the Gunnison, North Buttress of Chasm View. In May Rob Kiesel and I braved the regular descent gully, north of the northern rim of Chasm View. We crossed the river to the foot of the northern buttress of the south rim of Chasm View...
Donjek Glacier, first ascents. On June 1 Jonathon Wakefield and I flew into the Donjek Glacier, where we made first ascents of eight peaks around the East Donjek Glacier, a spur off the head of the main Donjek. Geoff Hornby and I had researched th...
LOSS OF CONTROL–VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Little TahomaOn August 20, 1983, a party of three, Bryan Harris (leader), Susan Harris (28) and Tom Anderson registered to climb Little Tahoma via the Fryingpan Glacier. They took the tra...
Mountaineering Club of Alaska. Our members began their 1961 activities by following on snowshoes the historic 30-mile trail over Crow Pass in January. Lack of snow made travel difficult, and the seven took 3½ days to complete the journey. An April...
Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face, Alpine-Style Attempt. Our European expedition was composed of Patrick Bérault, Michel Lassagne, Laurent Chevalier, André Muller and me, French; Laurent Cosson and Heinz Steinkötter, Italians; and Bernd Neubaur, Michael Ho...
Peaks near Cerro Torre and San Lorenzo, 1987. An Italian expedition made a number of excellent ascents in the Fitz Roy-Cerro Torre region and near San Lorenzo in late 1987. The members were Davide Brighenti, Monica Malgarotto, Alberto Rampini, Ste...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE BELAYColorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn August 3, 1985, I was on Mt. Meeker with two friends when the following happened. I had begun the last pitches of the Flying Buttress which consisted of ap...
Tuctubamba, Middle Earth. Clay Wadman and I tried the prominent couloir on the right, climbing ca 300 meters and reaching the rock band before rappelling the line of ascent. We found conditions that varied from one-inch ice over rock to perfect né...