SLIP ON ROCK – FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS, CAM PULLED OUT, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESNorth Carolina, Jackson County, Gray's RidgeChris Wilcox (35) and Scott Philyaw (52), both experienced climbers, had busy home and work lives th...
The Learning ProcessLiving the dreamIan Parnell, EnglandThe year 2000 was my chance to live the dream, to quit my job and head to the hills. In Britain, we have what I believe is the finest grant funding system for mountaineering in the world. The...
The Sandstone Towers of Tigray. The province of Tigray, in northern Ethiopia, is a region of sandstone mountains and high desert; it has been compared to Arizona. It may seem an unlikely place to go climbing. Apart from being close to the troubled...
Traleika Glacier area, Mount McKinley Range. The Parachute Brigade Alaska Expedition, consisting of Captain W. M. M. Deacock, second-in- command and meteorologist, Captain J. D. Kinloch, doctor; Lieutenant Ord Pritchard, photographer, with Captain...
Das Buch von Nanga Parbat: Die Geschichte seiner Besteigung 1895-1953, by G. O. Dyhrenfurth. 197 pages, with 133 photographs, 2 maps. Munchen: Nymphenburger Verlagshandlung, 1954. Price, D. M. 6.80.The ascent of Nanga Parbat, July 3, 1953, was giv...
Despite our general policy of not reviewing how-to manuals and guidebooks, at least two titles stand out as exceptional: Mark F. Twight’s Extreme Alpinism: Climbing Light Fast, & High is a manual for accomplished climbers who want to push to t...
Peaks and Lamas, by Marco Pallis. 8 vo.; 423 pages, with illustrations and maps. London: Cassell & Co., 1939. Price 18s.Subjectively the account of two Himalayan expeditions in 1933 and 1936, including the ascent of Riwo Pargyul (22,210 ft.) a...
This is the ninth annual report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club and presents the known mountaineering accidents that occurred in the United States and Alaska in 1955. In addition, an accident that occurred in late December, 195...
BOLT FAILURE—Arizona, Pinnacle Peak. The Requiem is a predominantly aid climb located just to the north of the standard route on Pinnacle Peak’s east face. Originally, this route was one pitch, the climbers penduluming off the uppermost bolt into ...
An Appeal to ReasonWalter A. WoodELEVEN persons are known to have been killed in North American climbing accidents during 1947. As many more may have died in accidents not yet reported to the American Alpine Club. But for the intervention of Provi...
This is the forty-ninth issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering, published by the AAC, and the eighteenth that has been done with The Alpine Club of Canada.Canada: The wet summer of 1995 suppressed climbing activity, especially mountai...
The Climb of the CenturyRick SylvesterFOR SEVENTEEN YEARS I’d kept as secret as a blabbermouth like me could an idea for a first ascent in Yosemite Valley. Each year first ascents seem increasingly hard to come by, especially in areas as popular a...
Ratong Valley, Tieng Kg, new route Merenge Bilinbolonka; and Phori, possible first ascent. Spanish Basque climbers Garo Azuke and I climbed in western Sikkim during October. Our intended objective was an ascent of the virgin east face of Kabru Sou...
Sierra Club. Ever since the Sierra Club was founded in 1892 by John Muir (later a charter member of the A.A.C.) and others, its principal purpose has been to encourage conservation of our natural scenic and mountain resources.* Thus, in the last y...
A.A.C., Cascade Section. Forty-two consecutive days without rain in the Cascades during July and August coupled with a beautiful fall made for outstanding local climbing for the Cascade Section. As usual, our members compiled an impressive list of...
Drifika, completion of southwest ridge to west summit; other ascents and attempts. The Czech expedition of Ondrej Baszczynski, Martin Klonfar, Ondrej Martinek, Petr Novosad, Martin Simunek, and Jiri Splichal spent most of August in the Nangma Vall...
East of Mount McKinleyH. Adams CarterA year before, as we had stood on the mountains above Anderson Pass, sharp, white peaks just to the south of us enticed our eyes away from the huge but graceful bulk of Mount McKinley and the black and white ri...
The War in the Alps. In the last issue of the Journal (p. 255) we summarized possible invasion routes from the Po basin to France and Germany. Although Allied armies are still on the outer perimeter of the Alps, the situation has greatly changed.T...
Anqosh Face of HuascaránCarlos BuhlerI LOOKED OUT ACROSS the upper Llanganuco valley on a stormy day in June. It was one of those days when the clouds loom heavy and dark as they roll in full of moisture from the jungle. I was familiar with what I...
Huayna Potosí, East Face. On August 19, 1997, in a 17-hour round trip, Marcos Barlena (Chile) and Eric Winandy (Belgium) climbed a route to the right of the classic Vía de los Franceses, staying below the southeast ridge of Huayna Potosí's Pico Su...