Mount Lituya. After many a rainy night in Juneau, Larry McGee of Channel Flying landed our trio at Cape Fairweather on a glacial lake above the beach. My wife Diana is quite feminine, Jim Nelson young and thin and I overweight and so our pilot was...
Aguja Guillaumet, Hard Sayin’ Not Knowing. On the morning of January 22, 2009, with a marginal weather report, Kate Rutherford and I left El Chalten and continued to the east face of Aguja Guillaumet. We looked at the Anker- Piola route, but it ha...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HARD HAT California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn August 20, 1988, Gert Hirst (48), Jim D’Allura (32), and Kevin Springer (28) were climbing on “The Blob” rock formation. They were attempting a new climbi...
Alpine Glaciers, by A. E. Lockington Vial. London: The Blatch- worth Press, 1952. (7½ x 10¼"). Price 30 shillings.It has been a pleasure to review Alpine Glaciers, written by a member of the British Glacialogical Society. Perhaps his description o...
Iowa Mountaineers. The club sponsored 19 week-end climbing outings to climbing areas in Iowa, Illinois, and Wisconsin. Ten 20-mile conditioning hikes were scheduled as well as several dozen shorter hikes. A number of seasonal social activities wer...
Peaks Above Palcacocha. I returned this year in July with my wife Jacqueline and Gérard and Monique Maillard. We established our base at Palcacocha at 14,700 feet. First, from a camp at 15,575 feet, we climbed Ishinca Chico (17,405 feet), between ...
Salcantay Tragedy. Steve Kelsey, a South African living in North Wales, and Briton Graham Whittaker were tragically killed when they fell while trying to climb a new route on the west ridge of Salcantay.
Shisha Pangma and Kukuczka’s 14th 8000er. Polish climber Jerzy Kukuczka became the second person after Reinhold Messner to scale the world’s 14 highest mountains when he completed his ascent of Shisha Pangma. The 13-member international team, whic...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. Last summer was an extremely active one for the HMC, with members climbing in various parts of Europe and North and South America. The most ambitious venture was the Andean expedition, which is described elsewhere in t...
Satopanth Attempt. Koldo Aldaz, Juanito Cebriain and I set up Base Camp on Vasuki Tal at 4950 meters and Camp I at 5300 meters on July 31 and August 4.I fell sick and had to abandon the climb. Another of us had an accident and had to be evacuated....
Fitz Roy Group, 1974. A Polish expedition was active in various parts of the Andes from October, 1973 to September, 1974. They were Ryszard Rodzinski, Henryk Cioncka, Stanislaw Jaworski, Zbigniew Kursa, Andrzej Lapinski, Antoni Panta and Zdzislaw ...
Midnight Rock, Tumwater Canyon. In May, starting from approximately below the prominent large balanced rock, Ron Priebe, Ed Cooper, and Irv Dunn climbed a route which they dubbed the “Widowmaker.” This class 5-6 climb required 14 pitons. The “Grea...
Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) Attempt. A strong French group led by Jean-Jacques Prieur had originally planned an attempt on the southwest face of Gasherbrum I, a new line to the left of the Polish spur of 1983. Due to scarce snowfall in the spring, ...
Phabrang. Keshab Mukherjee, Asit Roy, Bidhu Sarkar and Sankat Ali Mondai from Calcutta made the third ascent of Phabrang (20,250 feet) on July 19.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club
The Temple, (Methow Range), Northeast Face. What must be the last unclimbed part of this picturesque peak on Kangaroo Ridge fell to Dan Tate and me on May 30. Although we only used seven pitons on the climb, all for safety, there was a quite diffi...
Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park (2)—On July 10, 1956 Jack Jay (26) and a companion had climbed Hallett Peak. In descending they were sliding down a snow field above Emerald Lake when Jay slipped, fell, and slid into the rocks below the snow...
A.A.C., New England Section. We had just one scheduled meeting in 1974, but Section members saw each other at several of the Appalachian Mountain Club and Harvard Mountaineering Club slide shows and dinners, with which we don’t and can’t compete. ...
Shivling, Attempt and Near Tragedy. Our expedition was made up of Surendra Chavan, Moreshwar Kulkarni, Rejesh Patade, Anil Sable, Sanjay Doiphode, Tushar Tonpe, Vivek Marathe and me as leader. A two-day trek took us to Base Camp at Topovan at 3975...
El Gran Trono Blanco, Northeast Face, Sierra Juárez, Baja California. A new climb via the pillar on the northeast fact was begun by Rob Dellinger, Brian Gregory and me. Four pitches were fixed during some exhilarating free and aid climbing on good...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, POOR POSITION, NO HARD HAT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Oregon, Mount Hood, Southside RouteOn June 12, 1994, Paul Luty (39) was descending the south side (Hogsback) route, when he lost control during glissade and slid/f...