DAVID SEIDMAN1946 - 1969David Seidman was a strong climber. He was the strongest member of our 1967 expedition on the evening that we reached the top of the South Face of Mount McKinley. The summit was still several miles away and at first we took...
Teton RangeDuring the past summer the writer served as guide in the Grand Teton National Park, and succeeded in making two new routes up the S. face of Symmetry Spire, as well as one on the S. side of Storm Point. A second ascent of Teepe’s Pillar...
Chris Brazeau and I spent four weeks in Auyittuq National Park, climbing the granite walls and ridges of the Weasel Valley. We left home with inspiring photos, vague beta, and a lot of excitement. In the fishing village of Pangnirtung in early J...
PAUL NUNN 1943-1995On August 6, Paul Nunn and Geoff Tier were descending from the summit of Haromosh II (6666 meters), in the Karakoram Range, when they were overwhelmed and buried by a massive icefall collapse. They would have all been safely bac...
Guide to the Wyoming Mountains and Wilderness Areas, by Orrin H. Bonney and Lorraine Bonney. Denver, Colorado: Sage Books, Second, Revised Edition 1965. 528 pages; 95 ills.; 44 maps and aerial photos; index. Price $7.50.This second revised edition...
Kangchenjunga North Face Attempt. Nick Banks, Russell Brice, Bill King and I attempted the Japanese direct line on the north face without oxygen or Sherpa support on the mountain. After an 18-day approach, we established Base Camp at 16,500 feet o...
Schweizerland, Tupilak region, new routes. In July the five-woman team of Justine Curgenven, Di Gilbert, Rosie Golden, Catrin Thomas, and I skied into the 16th September Glacier in Schweizerland to climb alpine routes. Delayed by freight problems ...
A Deathful Ridge: A Novel of Everest. J.A. Wainwright. Mosaic Press: Ontario, Canada and Buffalo, New York, 1997. Hardback. 138 pages. $24.95If you are the least bit intrigued by the 1924 disappearance of George Leigh Mallory and Andrew “Sandy” Ir...
Peaks above Chiantar Glacier, Chitral. Alfred Linsbauer, leader, Peter von Gizycki, Wolfgang Greimal and Günter Plötz went by jeep from Gilgit to Yasin, where transport difficulties held them up until the beginning of August. They then crossed the...
Cerro Olivares. One of the highest unsealed summits of the world outside Asia, Cerro Olivares, fell to nine Chilean climbers from La Serena in early 1971, who climbed its southwest slopes. They were led by Claudio Canut. This peak had been claimed...
Mountaineering and Its Literature. W.R. Neate: The Mountaineers, 1980. 165 pages. Price $9.95.The purpose of the great majority of climbing books is self evident. We have guidebooks, biographies, expedition books and so forth, all with an obvious ...
Annapurna South Face Ascents and Tragedy. Our team was composed of Poles Jerzy Kukuczka, Artur Hajzer, Dr. Lech Komiszewski, Ryszard Warecki and me, Britons Phil Butler and Henry Todd, Germans Irene and Gerhard Schnass, Ecuadorians Ramiro Navarret...
Dhaulagiri II, Ascent and Tragedy. A four-man Korean expedition to the south face and east ridge of Dhaulagiri II was led by Lee Don-Yong. They established an Advance Base at 4900 meters and Camps I, II and III at 5400, 5800 and 6900 meters. Camp ...
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, SOME SOLO, SOME INADEQUATELY PROTECTED, ETCUtah, Various LocationsWe received some sketchy reports on several other accidents in Utah. They are summarized as follows.On March 2, Robert Moor (35) fell 100 feet to his death wh...
Aconcagua at First GlanceArthur B. Emmons, 3rdWHERE mountaineering is concerned, one effect of the present war has been to turn the attention of the climbing fraternity of both North and South America to the peaks, passes and glaciers of our own H...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. The last four years have been active ones for the Harvard Mountaineering club, both in local climbing and in small expeditions. A new issue (Number 21) of the club’s journal, Harvard Mountaineering, has just been publi...
During our successful trip to Taghia in 2008 (AAJ 2009), we discovered an untouched wall in the Tadrarate Canyon. Situated between the classics La Rouge Berbère (560m of climbing, 14 pitches, 7b, Guillaume-Ravier-Thivel, 2002) and Sul filo della N...
Broad Peak, Northwest Ridge, Traverse of the North, Central and Main Summits. From July 13 to 18 Jerzy Kukuczka and I made a new route on the unclimbed northwest ridge of Broad Peak. This is only the second route till now on this mountain since it...
STRANDED, LOST, PARTY SEPARATED—DISAGREEMENTNew Hampshire, Mount WashingtonIn January of 1989, two climbers (30ish) completed the Pinnacle Gully route and bivouacked at the top of it. The next morning, the two parted ways because they were not get...
Shuntavi ButteWilliam MarchThe TRIP BEGAN uneventfully until we collided with a large skunk while travelling west on Highway I-70 from Denver. The cloying stench accompanied us all the way to Zion National Park. Our plan was to climb the north fac...