A.A.C., New England Section. We had just one scheduled meeting in 1974, but Section members saw each other at several of the Appalachian Mountain Club and Harvard Mountaineering Club slide shows and dinners, with which we don’t and can’t compete. ...
Shivling, Attempt and Near Tragedy. Our expedition was made up of Surendra Chavan, Moreshwar Kulkarni, Rejesh Patade, Anil Sable, Sanjay Doiphode, Tushar Tonpe, Vivek Marathe and me as leader. A two-day trek took us to Base Camp at Topovan at 3975...
El Gran Trono Blanco, Northeast Face, Sierra Juárez, Baja California. A new climb via the pillar on the northeast fact was begun by Rob Dellinger, Brian Gregory and me. Four pitches were fixed during some exhilarating free and aid climbing on good...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, POOR POSITION, NO HARD HAT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Oregon, Mount Hood, Southside RouteOn June 12, 1994, Paul Luty (39) was descending the south side (Hogsback) route, when he lost control during glissade and slid/f...
The Alps in Fiction. To the list in A. A.J. iv, 458, one mayadd:Baum, Vicky. Marion Alive. Doubleday, 1941.Bradden, M. E. Asphodel. (The title of this thriller has been sent by Col. Strutt, who remembers it from his younger days. The club library ...
Mount Robson Traverse. On August 20 Michael Sawicky and I climbed the long snow and ice face on the north side of Mount Robson. Reaching the top of the face at two A.M. we continued through the ice formations of the narrow Emperor Ridge and arrive...
Homer’s Nose, “Dance of Topo-Usho”. In August Dave Ohst, John Tuttle and I climbed this exceptional route that ascends the great cleft (chimney) that splits the south face of Homer’s Nose. Start fifty feet right of an obvious water streak—the Blac...
The Desert, Various Activity. Jeff Achey and Irene Bloche made the first free ascent of the giant hoodoo Mexican Hat. The climb, which they called The Frito Route (5.12), begins ten feet left of the Bandito Route. The first two or three bolts are ...
FALLING ROCK, INEXPERIENCE—Wyoming, The Tetons. On August 4, about 11:30 p.m. Doug Calloway (17) was climbing the Owen Spalding Route on the Grand Teton a short distance above the Upper Saddle. A rock was dislodged by his partner’s rope while the ...
Mankial. In September a party of four Pakistanis and three westerners under the auspices of the Climbers Club of Lahore visited Swat state to make the fourth ascent of Mankial (18,750 feet). The leader was Mubarak Hussain. I do not know the names ...
AVALANCHE, FAILURE TO FOLLOW DIRECTIONS—WARNING NOTICES, INEXPERIENCENew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Lion Head TrailOn January 5, the body of Alexandre Cassan—one of four members in a party attempting an ill-advised winter ascent of the 6,288-foo...
Glacier Peak, Scimitar Glacier Variant. On July 21 and 22 Jim Corbin, Vinny Perone and I climbed the Scimitar Glacier route on Glacier Peak. Instead of going up the final headwall directly toward the summit, we traversed to the right on hard névé ...
STRANDED, CLIMBING UNROPED California, Echo ColOn March 11 Dave Kahn (25) and Steve Barnett (25) were cross-country skiing in the Bishop Creek drainage. When they reached Echo Col, about ten miles in from the roadhead, they were confronted by the ...
Monitor Peak, East Face, Needle Mountains. The second ascent of this spectacular 1200-foot wall, by a more direct route which started north of the original route, was accomplished on September 18 or 19 by Paul Stettner, Jr. and Larry Dalke. Stettn...
Changping Valley, Celestial Peak, east face. From February 7-19 the Russian team of Kolesov, Shelkovnikov, and Sherstnev climbed a major new line up the east face of Celestial Peak (5,413m). The accompanying photograph shows the line but no furthe...
Mount Jefferson, East Arête. On August 23, 1964, Jock McPherson and I crossed the White Water Glacier to the longest continuous rock route on the mountain’s east side, rising from the glacier at the 8000-foot level. Once on the rock, climbing was ...
Tignes. Even mountaineers who have never been in the Val d’Isère, who know it only through the affectionate accounts by frequenters of the region, must notice with regret the abandonment and inundation of Tignes. Not quite a mile down the valley f...
ROCK HOLDING PROTECTION BROKE OFF–FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTBritish Columbia, Yoho National Park, Mount StephenOn September 27, a party of three were attempting a new route on the China Wall of Mount Stephen. They had ascended the lower 3...
Fitz Roy Attempt. Our expedition (also including Jordi Pons—Editor) was prevented from reaching the summit of Fitz Roy by very strong winds. We tried the American route early in 1979.Jose Manuél Anglada, Club Montañés Barcelonés
P 9290, Kahiltna Glacier. On July 14 Ernst Bauer, Dennis Burge and Carl Heller climbed P 9290 by its southeast ridge. This peak lies southeast of Kahiltna Dome. The climbers had just descended from climbing McKinley by the West Buttress.