Mountaineers. The year 1971 marked the 37th Annual Climbing Program of the Seattle Mountaineers. As in recent years, three formal courses of instruction were offered to the membership. The courses extended from February through September beginning...
Noshaq (7,492m), first ascent in 25 years. The Oxus Mission, organized by Mountain Wilderness International, had two main goals: to show that it was again possible and not risky to visit the mountains of the High Hindu Kush in northeast Afghanista...
Gangotri I (6672m) ascent. Although this high peak south of Gangotri Temple has now seen many ascents, one on September 26 was notable. On that day 12 members of an all-women Indian expedition organized by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation reac...
In July and August, Saskia Groen, Vincent van Beek, Bas Visscher, and I explored a little-known range in the eastern part of the Pamir Alai, close to the Chinese border.This compact collection of steep alpine peaks, on a ridge running northeast to...
Number of Accidents ReportedTotalPersonsInvolvedInjuredKilledUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942256231019219604746412378194196149961144510144196271190164019119...
First on Everest: The Mystery of Mallory and Irvine. Tom Holzel and Audrey Salkeld. Henry Holt, New York, 1986. 322 pages, black and white photographs. $19.95.In 1971 when Tom Holzel first proposed his theory that George Mallory may indeed have re...
Wall of Dikes, Central Pyramid, various first ascents. In July a team of two Irish climbers (Donie O’Sullivan and I) and four British (Ian Parnell, Mark Pretty, Dave Pickford, and Sam Whittaker) visited the Ak-Su Valley in the Karavashin region. T...
At 0840 on September 1, a 49-year-old climber arrived at the JVC Ranger Office to check out for a summit climb. After indicating he was planning to go alone, the climber was advised by Climbing Ranger Dan Ostrowski of the solo climb regulations an...
All 14 Eight-Thousanders. Reinhold Messner. Cloudcap Press, Seattle, 1988.247 pages, black and white and color photographs, route diagrams, map.$35.00.Messner has come a long way since I met him in 1976. I was then a shell-shocked dilettante on Al...
Pik 150th Anniversary of the British Alpine Club (4,836m), and four other first ascents; ski-mountaineering. In 2006 I was asked to organize a ski-mountaineering expedition as part of the celebrations of the 150th anniversary of the Alpine Club pl...
The Ascent of Mt. RedoubtJ. E. JohnsonTHE Rampart Range, lying 25 miles by trail southwest of Jasper, Alberta, is perhaps one of the most striking of all the groups that compose the Canadian Rockies. The name is well chosen, for the eastern and no...
STRANDED, RAPPEL ROPE JAMMED, WEATHER, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Hallett PeakOn July 3, 1993, Tor Anderson (20) and Brandon Latham (21) became stranded on the Northcutt-Carter Route III 5.7 on the North Face of Ha...
Kellas Peak (6,680m), attempt from south; Peak 6,252m. In autumn Graham Hoyland, Mark Lambert, Anindya Mukherjee, George Rodway, Dukpa Tsering Sherpa, Phurba Sherpa, Thend- up Sherpa, and I were fortunate to gain permission to enter northwest Sikk...
Colorado, Capitol Peak—On July 25, 1957, John W. Heckert, a student at Eileen Ginter and Richard A. Slusser left the Colorado Mountain Club’s camp at Snowmass Lake to explore a possible route to Pierre Basin and Capitol Peak. They left at 4:40 A.M...
The great Sahara desert, stretching for 2,500 miles across North Africa, has long presented a barrier, a tantalizing mystery and a challenge to European explorers and travelers. Concealed within the desert, remote mountains provided a refuge for v...
PULMONARY EDEMA—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. Edward Guleke (29) was a member of an expedidon which was organized privately and then contacted Alaska Mountain Guides (Ray Genet) for a guide to lead them up the West Buttress. They were flown in on June 20,...
FALL INTO CREVASSE—SNOW BRIDGE COLLAPSE, POOR POSITION, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—NO BELAY OR FIXED ROPEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 28 at 1900, Dominic Marshall (25) and Reggie Perrin fell into a crevasse at 13,600 feet while ascendin...
Two years had passed since the Tokai section of the Japanese Alpine Club tried the first winter ascent of Lhotse’s giant south face. The attempt, which took place in December 2001, eventually failed at 7,600m due to a biting winter blizzard. A sec...
Oregon, St. Peter’s Dome—On Sept. 15, Don McKay (36) and Joe Quigley (32) were making an attempt to climb St. Peter’s Dome by a new route. Both were extremely experienced climbers. From the saddle of the south side of the Dome they traversed aroun...
Our plan to climb Kamet was not the result of any snap decision. We had faced many challenges before, and although confidence was born from these experiences, so too was fear and anxiety. At 7,756 meters, Kamet is the highest climbable mountain in...