Ascents in Bolivia. Our former contributor, Mr. Joseph Prem, sends a remarkable list of his ascents in 1939, followed by an article which will appear in the next issue of the Journal:June 30: First ascent of the Cerro de Santa Vela Cruz (5600 m.),...
Mount Thor, Chugach Range. The main and middle peaks of Mount Marcus Baker (13,176 and 12,850 feet) are separated by a drop of only 500 feet and thus may be considered peaks of the same mountain. Thirty years elapsed after Marcus Baker’s first asc...
Preserving the Cracks!Compiled by TOM FROSTWhatever liberates our spirit without giving us self control is disastrous — Goethe PITON crack deterioration as a result of repeated placement and removal of hard steel pitons is becoming a serious probl...
Mountaineers. In 1951 the annual outing of the Mountaineers, of Seattle, was held in the Olympics. The climbing group went to the Selkirks.Dee Molenaar
Southern Batura Mustagh, western Karakoram Range, Hunza. A Canadian party comprising Fred Roots, leader, Donald Lyon, John Ricker, Lisle Irwin, Donald Poole, Hermann Jamek, Momin Khalifa and Karl Tomm, arrived at Aliabad, Hunza on May 25 to invest...
The North Face Direct of Sondre TrolltindJohn Amatt, Alpine Climbing GroupAfter our ascent of the Trolltind Wall in 1965,* it seemed to me that Norway must be the site of future developments in technical climbing. Nowhere else outside America coul...
Gone with the WindA three~year struggle to climb the north pillar of Cerro Murallón, Patagonia.Stefan GlowaczSilence. Not the slightest trace of noise. Even Robert’s breath made no sound. Small clouds of mist escaped from his mouth at regular inte...
Kloochman Rock, Main Summit. In September Les Maxwell, Louis Ulrich, and Wally Juneau completed the “South Terrace Route.” About 200 feet east of the beginning of Route # 1 a short westerly scramble took them to an open chimney, followed by a west...
Caraz II (Caraz Este), North Face, and Artesonraju Tragedy. The first week of June brought us to Base Camp at 13,000 feet beside Jatuncocha, halfway up the Quebrada Santa Cruz. We spent a few days acclimatizing and reconnoitering the approaches to...
Vampire Spire, New Routes. During the first three weeks of August, Colorado climbers Pat Goodman, Nan Darkis and I traveled to Canada’s Northwest Territories to the Vampire Spires. Located 25 miles north of the Cirque of the Unclimbables in the Lo...
Peaks in the Cordillera Darwin, Tierra del Fuego and in Patagonia. Our yacht, the Eloisa, was a 60-foot, 34-ton ketch built of ferro cement and fitted with an 88-horse-power engine. It was built by the skipper, Ian Rennie, with the assistance of t...
W. V. Graham Matthews II 1921-2004I first knew Graham when I returned to Harvard College after World War II and found him enrolled at Harvard Law School. He had attended Exeter Academy (‘38) and Harvard College (graduating early with the class of ...
Helancoma, Huamarypayoc, 1981. Cordillera Urubamba. On March 13, 1981 Tom Hendrickson, leader, Nan Starbuck-Boardman, Wendy Weeks, and I entered the Cordillera Urubamba from the village of Tostayoc on the main Cuzco-Quillabamba road. We establishe...
Chuspi, Cordillera de Huaytapallana, and other peaks in Central Peru. While working with the Instituto Geofísico near Huancayo, established by the Carnegie Institution of Washington, I visited the Huaytapallana together with Bernard Frey and Marie...
World Climbing: Images from the Edge. Simon Carter. Blackheath, New South Wales, Australia: Onsight Photography and Publishing. 2005. 192 pages; 230 COLOR PHOTOS. $40.00.What makes a climbing photo a stunner is not necessarily the climber. Rather,...
Ascent of Peak 5784 and Kirov Peak Attempt. Five days after leaving Wales, we establish basecamp on a medial moraine at 3600 meters in the Kayindi valley. On July 9 John Cousins and I recon Col 4900, a long day mostly in deep snow. On July 12 John...
Mt. McKinley, Isis Face, second ascent. The few seconds seemed like eternity. There was no answer, only the glacier echoing our calls. I had this sour feeling that a tragedy might happen. After all these days of fighting together, it felt unfair.T...
LOSS OF CONTROL, VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, CLIMBING UNROPED, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Mount RainierAt 12:28 a.m. on February 7, 1981, Jeff Warren (20) called Paradise from Camp Muir on the emergency radio stating that there had be...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE ANCHOR SYSTEMCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Washington ColumnOn December 3, Andrew Morrison died when he fell several hundred feet from the South Face of Washington Column (Grade V, 11 pitches, 5.10a A2) in Yosemite Valley. ...
Where the Clouds Can Go. The autobiography of Conrad Kain. Edited, with additional chapters, by J. Monroe Thorington. 8 vo. ; xxiv + 462 pages, with index and 29 illustrations. New York: American Alpine Club, 1935. Price $3.00.Only the other eveni...